My 2F to 1HZ-T swap thread

[lshobie]

Ya, if your system is 12V then you can get everything here.

I recommmend using the tiny tach transducer , you just bolt this tiny sendoe around 1 injection line - it's dummy proof. Make sure you ordered the diesel type, and the hole size in the transducer is 4.3mm - dont let them sell you a 5mm - I had to send 3 back to them - finally got it right the last time.

 

[kevinmrowland]

I called and ordered a diesel specific tinytach, originally they tried to tell me it was a 5mm, I went out to the shop and put calipers on the line, the nice fellow on the phone translated the measurement over to a 4.5mm, said he did not have a 4.3. Am I screwed?

 

[lshobie]

No, you arent screwed, they just sent me one that was 4.3mm's, talk to the old guy there - he knows what he is talking about - I forget his name. Remind him that he talked to me about my japanese diesel engine and the 4.3mm trans thingy.

 

[kevinmrowland]

I think it was the old guy I talked to, he was nice and seemed to know his stuff.



Got a box from G&S today containing the goods for AC, spent the evening getting it all hooked in (appointment in the morn to charge it up, so no choice)
I had to rebuild the air intake tube to clear the AC pump,
The lines actually ended up working out:
Firewall to dryer, 60 hose
Dryer to condenser, 60 hose
Condenser to pump, 62 hose (took some coaxing)
Pump to firewall, 62 hose. This one was the bitch. The 3FE pump sits low, just like the 2F, the line therefore exits the pump at an upward angle, the hood closes with it in that position, but kinks the hose a bit.
I was not going to take no for an answer so, on the advice of my hotrod friend, I wrapped the aluminum part of the hose very tightly with wire and attempted to bend it, I soon found that the hoses are WAY tougher than they look, I ended up having to use a bench top pin bender to slowly work the bend out of the hose. It does not look pretty but it goes right over the intake tube and does not even touch the hood liner. Now lets hope it all holds pressure.

 

[archtimb]

Good luck! Looks great.

Pop

 

[rutbeer]

Ya, still have to do that on mine. I have the underdash a/c hooked up, but need to run the lines. I'm guessing I will have similar issues, but not so tight on the hood clearance.

Yours looks good.

 

[BlueHZT60]

$39 DBL probe, remote BBQ thermometer & some silicone tape will help chase down exactly where the heat is being generated. Plus, afterward you can use it for manifold cooking I got mine from Amazon, it arrived in 3-4 days. If you'd like I'll donate mine to the HZ - 60 conversion group.

I have a pusher pump mounted back by the tank on the HZ-60. It's not working right now, thus I get some motor stumbling after a long uphill - throttle, but no heat from that specific issue.

After all my overheat issues, the only time I get hot is loaded, full turbo, highway, uphill, hot outside. The top radiator hose has gotten to 194f and the dummy guage is half a needle below red. Bottom hose = 175f at same time. Air - post turbo = 175f.

If you start turning your fuel down - it is lefty/loosy = less fuel. AND only do it 1/16th at a time - it's very sensitive. 11mm end wrench and a screwdriver.

And most important - don't stress over it. It is more than likely a simple combination of small adjustments and things will work perfect (I've already processed enough overheating stress to cover at least 3 or 4 more HZ-60 conversions). Bob

 

[kevinmrowland]

Thanks Bob, it is going good, drove it quite a bit the last two days, still without air conditioning (broken hard line on the evaporator, Dad is overnighting me a spare, dont hit those things when you are moving stuff around the engine compartment) anyway, last night, 93 degrees out, 40% humidity, 65mph, about 8psi of boost holding steady at highway speed, oil pressure about 70psi the temp needle only got a bit above 1/4, never above half. EGTS were at 550, but that is with only about a foot of exhaust pipe. I think it is going quite well. Ran a bunch of errands, stops, starts, traffic, merges and no issues so I am quite happy. The wastegate dumps (?is that the proper terminology?)at 11.75psi but the few hills around here are a breeze in 5th gear, translation, I can accelerate uphill in 5th gear, that is a new experience.

I was able to get the OE tach to read with a translator from dakotadigital, but it reads to low, I am going to fiddle with that a bit tonight.

Got new tires last night, tinted the front windows to match the back, bedlined the the interior, bolted the travel boxes in stocked up on supplies and organized the new tool selection in preparation for taking this thing on a summer vacation road trip. Nothing like a few thousand miles to get to know a new drivetrain ;p


Hey Bob, which one is the fuel adjustment screw? Or, at least what is it called in the FSM? Nothing is called out as just that and I did not want start turning stuff. No smoking, so I think it is good the way it is.

 

[BlueHZT60]

Kevin - watch your spedometer. At 65mph, H55, 4.11, on 33's you are probably actually going about 75. With 35's and Marks Low-Range gears, I'm still 10% over on my spedo.

 

[BlueHZT60]

Yup, that was a big part of the decision to go with the 1HZ, parts are at least somewhat available.

Oh, and thanks for the tip on the tinytach, I went ahead and ordered one, I still plan on using a translator for the OE tach, but the system for the tinytach is so simple, at the very least it will make calibrating the translator that much easier.

I'll share the cost with you on the stock tach/1HZ, I'm still as tach(t)less as always. Bob

 

[BlueHZT60]

If no smoke and temps are not too high, don't fiddle with the fuel. The fuel adjustment screw is on the top, right side of the pump, horizontal, with a locking nut, about a 3" long screw - IIRC.

On the AC (just in case) if you don't get the switch working, you can hot wire it direct from the AC unit to the Cig. Plug. That's where I'm at right now, because the little blue switch is a relay and I haven't gone through the effort to trace it back to the relay and 12v source. I just ran a dual wire through the firewall and out one of the empty switch holes. For now - it works. Bob

 

[Tapage]

Kevin - watch your spedometer. At 65mph, H55, 4.11, on 33's you are probably actually going about 75. With 35's and Marks Low-Range gears, I'm still 10% over on my spedo.

I compare my speedo readings with GPS and for my surprise I'm pretty close ( less than 4km of diference ) with 37" + H55F + 4.56 + Marks low gears ..

 

[kevinmrowland]

I compare my speedo readings with GPS and for my surprise I'm pretty close ( less than 4km of diference ) with 37" + H55F + 4.56 + Marks low gears ..

With worn out 33s, 4.11 gears, same transfer, before swap, the speedo read about a mile under at 65 according to the GPS. I haven't gotten out the GPS since the swap, but nothing related to actual speed has changed. Should be pretty close still.


Bolted the TinyTach on at lunch time today (holy crap that is an easy setup) and ran on the highway this afternoon. I pushed a bit harder just to find any kinks.
70-75mph was right in the 2,700rpm range (to many gauges to watch) temp needle never went above half, EGTs-950, Oil-70psi.
55mph is spot on 2,000rpm, the revs are just about the same as with the 2F, but seem a bit high given the fact that the HZ does not feel like it needs to rev that high. Runs good though.

The Tinytach is nice for easy setup, and is good for reference but I do not want it on my dash permanently, hate the way it looks, not Toyota at all

I have been able to get the OE tach to read, just not right. Spent awhile on the phone with Dakotadigital (very helpful) and we got the tach to read too high or too low, but not spot on. According to the tech guy I need to mount an inductive sensor that reads the passing flywheel teeth, the injection pump gear just has too few teeth on it. I do not mind drilling and tapping a hole in the bellhousing for the sensor, but there is no inspection cover or any removable part that would allow me to figure out just where to drill and how deep to mount the sensor, would have been easy before the motor went in.

 

[kevinmrowland]

If no smoke and temps are not too high, don't fiddle with the fuel. The fuel adjustment screw is on the top, right side of the pump, horizontal, with a locking nut, about a 3" long screw - IIRC.

On the AC (just in case) if you don't get the switch working, you can hot wire it direct from the AC unit to the Cig. Plug. That's where I'm at right now, because the little blue switch is a relay and I haven't gone through the effort to trace it back to the relay and 12v source. I just ran a dual wire through the firewall and out one of the empty switch holes. For now - it works. Bob

You can always jump the clutch out on the pump, but since you are bypassing the amp, be careful that you do not run it to long because your thermister and pressure switch are also bypassed.

 

[archtimb]

Kevin - watch your spedometer. At 65mph, H55, 4.11, on 33's you are probably actually going about 75. With 35's and Marks Low-Range gears, I'm still 10% over on my spedo.

That's what his Momma's been telling him for years!

He has a GPS now to finally see where he is really at.

Mitch

 

[kevinmrowland]

I'll share the cost with you on the stock tach/1HZ, I'm still as tach(t)less as always. Bob

???? If you want me to send you the Tinytach to use, no problem. I just want it as a reference tool.

 

[BlueHZT60]

???? If you want me to send you the Tinytach to use, no problem. I just want it as a reference tool.

I've got an Autometer tach, just haven't installed it yet (It sucks living in a temporary location with no shop and over half your tools in another State). Bob

 

[roscoFJ73]

the revs are just about the same as with the 2F, but seem a bit high given the fact that the HZ does not feel like it needs to rev that high. Runs good though.

They all feel like that. I sometimes wish I had a 6th gear on long highway trips on flat ground.
The acceleration in 5th is nothing great though,I overtook 2 triple trailered roadtrains in one hit thursday and all I can say it is a long time to be on the wrong side of the road at 120kph

You havent taken it out wheeling yet so you still have a whole new angle to the 1HZ to discover/enjoy

 

[kevinmrowland]

Yeah, I am not doing anything about gearing until I get used to things. Just first impressions at this point.


Finally got some semblance of an exhaust on tonight. Not exactly the prettiest thing but I figured I should post it up anyway.
With no muffler it sounds about as loud as the 2F did with the stock muffler. I will probably put a muffler on eventually (I like things quiet) but this works for the time being.


Starting to look like my cruiser again.

 

[VTCruiser]

looks good...best part is the VT plate

is that an e-type jag in the background?