MY 2021 Wheel spacers - anyone tried them? (1 Viewer)

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I won’t be going off roading. Never was the type.

I could buy the same wheels with the correct bolt pattern for the LC but wheels and tires would be looking at $3K plus with spacers so another $300.

Or I can buy some adapters for $500+ and use my same old wheels.

Again it’s the sentimental value I have him in them. Bought them when I was a poor college kid. Can’t get rid of them and I still like them a lot.
I get the sentimental value. But it shouldn't be enough to cause a degradation in safety.
 
Not my issue, but I'd be curious whether they are rated to handle the weight of the 200.
 
I get the sentimental value. But it shouldn't be enough to cause a degradation in safety.
Spacers and adapters are esstentially the same thing. It’s how you install them.

I know many here who run with the 1.25 spacers. For my particular set up, I’m gonna have to go with the 2 inch.
 
Not positive, I think the specs factory wheels are 1250KG (2756LB).

I went with rims with a 1400KG rating (3086LB)
 
I have 30 mm hub centric from Direnza on my LC 2013

IMG_20210917_114641.jpg
 

Pretty good read here about forum members putting on sequoia stock 20’s on their LC. Lots of stuff about tire loads, rims etc.

This forum has so much useful information 🙏🙌🏼
 
It’s a 2 piece adapter, that would look like this but Bora brand.

The specs for the 1.5 inches two pieces adapters would be:

First piece would be .91 of 1 inch spacer that sits against the hub and 5 lugs. The second piece is .59 of 1 inch adapter which has the 6 bolt pattern.

I don’t know if the first piece would clear the bolts as they need to sit flush and can’t have any protrusion.

View attachment 2947325
These things seem to be held together by flat socket head cap screws?

There is absolutely no way I'd trust that to hold up under the weight of one of these vehicles, even on-road.
 

Pretty good read here about forum members putting on sequoia stock 20’s on their LC. Lots of stuff about tire loads, rims etc.

This forum has so much useful information 🙏🙌🏼
Those are 2nd gen sequoia wheels that have same bolt pattern and offset as OEM 200 wheels.
 

Big ole nope from me.

Thoughts:
*Studs holding the wheel on are pressed in to approximately as much aluminum as steel in the original toyota hub... aluminum being much weaker than steel, and toyota feeling that amount of steel was necessary, this part of the system can't be as strong as factory.
*Whole outer disk is held on by six flat socket head tap screws, with a small tapered head and threaded into aluminum, with an allen head, keeping in mind the factory lugs go to 100ft-lb.. how tight can you even get those? The fact that they are on a larger bolt circle than the stock studs helps the strength of this system, but we'd need an engineer to assess whether this offsets the weaker hardware than stock studs into steel.
*How deep can the lug pockets be? Meaning how much metal is there for the inner lug nuts to clamp to the hub face?
*Instead of just five lug nuts to keep the wheel on, you now have 17 fasteners per wheel that you need to keep tight. Plus with 2" of additional offset the forces on them are greater than stock.

Yeah, buying the wheels again would be 3k vs $500.. but there are times in life it is appropriate to spend the money to do the job right, instead of use duck tape and bailing wire to keep a wheel on. This is absolutely the band-aid way to put the wheels you like on a truck.

There is no way I'd haul around people I care about on these parts, personally.
 
Curious to know the overall backspacing/offset of these wheels +2" spacers.... what size tire are you going to run and what are the odds this is going to fit correctly?

Generally speaking the idea of a two piece spacer/adapter seems like a bad idea to me. However, if Bora makes it, I have confidence it is a good product and has been properly engineered. That doesnt mean it is going to fit properly for the application though. 2" is a BIG spacer. my 3/4" spacers make me just a hair nervous and I am on the fence about removing them. another failure point, another fastener to check, etc.
 
Curious to know the overall backspacing/offset of these wheels +2" spacers.... what size tire are you going to run and what are the odds this is going to fit correctly?

Generally speaking the idea of a two piece spacer/adapter seems like a bad idea to me. However, if Bora makes it, I have confidence it is a good product and has been properly engineered. That doesnt mean it is going to fit properly for the application though. 2" is a BIG spacer. my 3/4" spacers make me just a hair nervous and I am on the fence about removing them. another failure point, another fastener to check, etc.
Yes motor tech is going to be making a custom spacer/adapter for me using aircraft grade 6061t6 billet aluminum

The tires are going to be 285/45r22.

The wheels offset is +15. So by my calculations 2inch spacers = 2 X 25.4 = 50.8 - 15 = 35.8 offset.

I’ll be having the Eibach Pro Stage Lift Kit installed later this month as well. It’s a 2 inch front and 1 inch back lift.

Using the tiresize.com calculater, these were the results:

I think it might rub in the front but I will be taking off the mud flaps as well.

9C8D5CE3-69AB-442A-BFB5-245169416A98.png
 
Yes motor tech is going to be making a custom spacer/adapter for me using aircraft grade 6061t6 billet aluminum

The tires are going to be 285/45r22.

The wheels offset is +15. So by my calculations 2inch spacers = 2 X 25.4 = 50.8 - 15 = 35.8 offset.

I’ll be having the Eibach Pro Stage Lift Kit installed later this month as well. It’s a 2 inch front and 1 inch back lift.

Using the tiresize.com calculater, these were the results:

I think it might rub in the front but I will be taking off the mud flaps as well.

View attachment 2949220
Stock 08-15 wheels being +60, your +15s will move the wheels out 45mm. Add another 50mm to that for the adapter, and you are 95mm further out than stock..

I could have my math wrong on this.. never have been the best at keeping track of +/- offset and such. But I do know a 2" spacer even on stock wheels is a big shift. If your wheels are adding another 45 to that... yes, you will rub, and I don't know if removing the mud flaps will fix it. Plus your scrub radius will be -very- out of ideal. You might find a lot of torque steer and the truck darts around under hard braking.
 
This is my order from Motorsport tech

“Custom - TwoPieceAdapter, 2008-2022 Toyota Land Truck, Studs:14x1.5, VehBP:5x150, WheelBP:6x139.7, VehCB:110, WheelCB:108, Material:alum, Hub&Wheel Centric, ThicknessFront:2, ThicknessRear:2,”

Will let you guys know if it’s successful or a failure on my part.
 
Stock 08-15 wheels being +60, your +15s will move the wheels out 45mm. Add another 50mm to that for the adapter, and you are 95mm further out than stock..

I could have my math wrong on this.. never have been the best at keeping track of +/- offset and such. But I do know a 2" spacer even on stock wheels is a big shift. If your wheels are adding another 45 to that... yes, you will rub,
Yes motor tech is going to be making a custom spacer/adapter for me using aircraft grade 6061t6 billet aluminum

The tires are going to be 285/45r22.

The wheels offset is +15. So by my calculations 2inch spacers = 2 X 25.4 = 50.8 - 15 = 35.8 offset.

I’ll be having the Eibach Pro Stage Lift Kit installed later this month as well. It’s a 2 inch front and 1 inch back lift.

Using the tiresize.com calculater, these were the results:

I think it might rub in the front but I will be taking off the mud flaps as well.

View attachment 2949220

and I don't know if removing the mud flaps will fix it. Plus your scrub radius will be -very- out of ideal. You might find a lot of torque steer and the truck darts around under hard braking.
@bloc math is correct. The new offset of the +15mm wheel and 2” spacer will be -35mm (-95mm from stock).

Good luck with all that.
 
Big ole nope from me.

Thoughts:
*Studs holding the wheel on are pressed in to approximately as much aluminum as steel in the original toyota hub... aluminum being much weaker than steel, and toyota feeling that amount of steel was necessary, this part of the system can't be as strong as factory.
*Whole outer disk is held on by six flat socket head tap screws, with a small tapered head and threaded into aluminum, with an allen head, keeping in mind the factory lugs go to 100ft-lb.. how tight can you even get those? The fact that they are on a larger bolt circle than the stock studs helps the strength of this system, but we'd need an engineer to assess whether this offsets the weaker hardware than stock studs into steel.
*How deep can the lug pockets be? Meaning how much metal is there for the inner lug nuts to clamp to the hub face?
*Instead of just five lug nuts to keep the wheel on, you now have 17 fasteners per wheel that you need to keep tight. Plus with 2" of additional offset the forces on them are greater than stock.

Yeah, buying the wheels again would be 3k vs $500.. but there are times in life it is appropriate to spend the money to do the job right, instead of use duck tape and bailing wire to keep a wheel on. This is absolutely the band-aid way to put the wheels you like on a truck.

There is no way I'd haul around people I care about on these parts, personally.
Big ole nope from me.

Thoughts:
*Studs holding the wheel on are pressed in to approximately as much aluminum as steel in the original toyota hub... aluminum being much weaker than steel, and toyota feeling that amount of steel was necessary, this part of the system can't be as strong as factory.
*Whole outer disk is held on by six flat socket head tap screws, with a small tapered head and threaded into aluminum, with an allen head, keeping in mind the factory lugs go to 100ft-lb.. how tight can you even get those? The fact that they are on a larger bolt circle than the stock studs helps the strength of this system, but we'd need an engineer to assess whether this offsets the weaker hardware than stock studs into steel.
*How deep can the lug pockets be? Meaning how much metal is there for the inner lug nuts to clamp to the hub face?
*Instead of just five lug nuts to keep the wheel on, you now have 17 fasteners per wheel that you need to keep tight. Plus with 2" of additional offset the forces on them are greater than stock.

Yeah, buying the wheels again would be 3k vs $500.. but there are times in life it is appropriate to spend the money to do the job right, instead of use duck tape and bailing wire to keep a wheel on. This is absolutely the band-aid way to put the wheels you like on a truck.

There is no way I'd haul around people I care about on these parts, personally.
Man I should of listened to you guys.

Had a disaster happen last weekend.

Blew my front driver tire. Mcgard lock Lugnut broke in half when trying to change the wheel. Adapters were seized. Just way too much issues. Smh. Had to learn the hard way.

Down $500 from the shop and $500 from the Bora adapters
 
Blew the front driver tire. One of the mcgard lug nuts broke in half when they tried to take off the rim. Had to drill out the stud and break the bolt.

Adapters were also seized. Just a disaster smh

EAC3D1A5-ECDE-4EF3-A779-78D4F7C26C29.jpeg
 
Blew the front driver tire. One of the mcgard lug nuts broke in half when they tried to take off the rim. Had to drill out the stud and break the bolt.

Adapters were also seized. Just a disaster smh

View attachment 3033774
Adapters just aren’t a good idea IMO.
 

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