- Thread starter
- #21
I've had a couple of brand new wheels be out of round out of box. Less common but does happen. Ymmv
My 2014 LC
- Thread starter THEROK
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I've had a couple of brand new wheels be out of round out of box. Less common but does happen. Ymmv
- Thread starter
- #22
Hopefully my installers aren't so amateur hour at the Toyota dealership. Good help is hard to find!
How do I know which spring goes to which side?
One of the OME springs should've been marked with an 'L'. Can't remember where the longer one goes.
- Thread starter
- #25
Two threads also mentioning the OME rear metallica click noise over rough road - hoping the washers makes for a permanent fix.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/200-series-cruisers/521043-ome-lift-kdss.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/200-series-cruisers/604358-ome-suspension.html
Photos of the rear
https://forum.ih8mud.com/200-series-cruisers/521043-ome-lift-kdss.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/200-series-cruisers/604358-ome-suspension.html
Photos of the rear
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I'm picking you will find the top of your left rear shock will need tightening. And that little puppy on that side is a total biJcha to get at properly - which is why I think they are often not properly cranked up in the shop. Might also need packing as you suggest.
Another thought: If you are using shock guards on those rear Icons you may aslo want to check that the shiock body on compression is clearing the top of the guard. My radflos were clipping the guard slightly and it took me forwever to track down the source of the metal on metal clanking sound. Quick tweak on the guard and all good.
Good luck.
PS: Nice Method wheels. I've just pushed the button on a set of Method NV machine faced rims like this guy's 200 built by Daz at Autocraft
Not my rig or photo but easily the best looking rims I've seen.
Another thought: If you are using shock guards on those rear Icons you may aslo want to check that the shiock body on compression is clearing the top of the guard. My radflos were clipping the guard slightly and it took me forwever to track down the source of the metal on metal clanking sound. Quick tweak on the guard and all good.
Good luck.
PS: Nice Method wheels. I've just pushed the button on a set of Method NV machine faced rims like this guy's 200 built by Daz at Autocraft
Not my rig or photo but easily the best looking rims I've seen.
- Thread starter
- #27
Hey Bill - the nv wheels were also a strong consideration. Can't go wrong with either one. Well done.
I'm running ome rears. Icon only makes front coilovers for the 200.
Per my other thread I'm running 61029 shocks with 723 springs. I'm going to call ARB-ome tomorrow to see what they have to say about that. What's cool is that they're local to me so I may make an onshore visit as to why their ome rear setup makes these metal on metal noises on three installs I culled via search on ih8.
The top nuts on rear shocks seem to not stay snug. I had both my tire tech and Toyota tech tighten then two separate trips. ??
I'm also getting a click noise over speed bumps on the front.
These noises are quite annoying. I will be one happy camper when it's all sorted and all I do is drive and enjoy the beast. Atm driving on egg shells.
Many thanks.
I'm running ome rears. Icon only makes front coilovers for the 200.
Per my other thread I'm running 61029 shocks with 723 springs. I'm going to call ARB-ome tomorrow to see what they have to say about that. What's cool is that they're local to me so I may make an onshore visit as to why their ome rear setup makes these metal on metal noises on three installs I culled via search on ih8.
The top nuts on rear shocks seem to not stay snug. I had both my tire tech and Toyota tech tighten then two separate trips. ??
I'm also getting a click noise over speed bumps on the front.
These noises are quite annoying. I will be one happy camper when it's all sorted and all I do is drive and enjoy the beast. Atm driving on egg shells.
Many thanks.
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- Thread starter
- #28
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Sinister
SILVER Star
Nice slow mo effect, the truck looks great. Hope you get the clanking all sorted out ASAP......
Sliding by incognito. Lookin' dam fine black on black on black.
Try a second nut on top of shock thread to lock the first down. Bet the first is just not tight enough however.
Just another thought, maybe the front clicks you're hearing are the factory UCAs contacting the Icon coilovers. 1.5 inches of lift and its all over rover with standard UCAs. To be certain put some chalk on the inside of the arms and see if it transfers to the coils or jack it up and see what happens on full droop.
If so then Total Chaos in SC have the answer. This will also allow you to get your alignment settings back within factory spec and will in turn improve your steering out of sight. You will probably find your castor settings are right out of whack. Camber settings tend to also run out of adjustment past 2 inches of lift on 200s which will burn the outers of those extra wides in no time...er... flat.
Another supplier has also just joined the aftermarket party on UCAs. This one is downunder sorry but they might in fact have a better product as the top of the ball joint has a dust cap whereas Total Chaos UCA ball joint does not. Not a big task to keep clean and lubricated but still think it might be a better idea over time.
see here: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=610123799025427&set=vb.233874483317029&type=2&theater
Try a second nut on top of shock thread to lock the first down. Bet the first is just not tight enough however.
Just another thought, maybe the front clicks you're hearing are the factory UCAs contacting the Icon coilovers. 1.5 inches of lift and its all over rover with standard UCAs. To be certain put some chalk on the inside of the arms and see if it transfers to the coils or jack it up and see what happens on full droop.
If so then Total Chaos in SC have the answer. This will also allow you to get your alignment settings back within factory spec and will in turn improve your steering out of sight. You will probably find your castor settings are right out of whack. Camber settings tend to also run out of adjustment past 2 inches of lift on 200s which will burn the outers of those extra wides in no time...er... flat.
Another supplier has also just joined the aftermarket party on UCAs. This one is downunder sorry but they might in fact have a better product as the top of the ball joint has a dust cap whereas Total Chaos UCA ball joint does not. Not a big task to keep clean and lubricated but still think it might be a better idea over time.
see here: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=610123799025427&set=vb.233874483317029&type=2&theater
- Thread starter
- #31
Correction. Icon does offer up rear shocks. Ome still makes noise a bit less with washers. Icon makes a clicking noise over a speed bump.
Of icons get rid of noise all together is spend more for that. Question is is it worth it for my use case?
For you lifted lc 200s is your kit whisper oem quiet or is some noise par for course? Many thanks.
Of icons get rid of noise all together is spend more for that. Question is is it worth it for my use case?
For you lifted lc 200s is your kit whisper oem quiet or is some noise par for course? Many thanks.
Whisper quiet, but I have aftermarket UCAs.
Total Chaos UCAs and Radflo 2.5" non reservoir with 700lb spring. No bumper or anything else. In the back are Old Man Emu 722 springs with Radflo 2.5" shocks.
Zero noise, and fit well.
I had everything purchased through a 'localish' off-road fab shop. They represent Radflo locally. Work was done by my guy.
If I were in your situation, I would match up the fronts you have with Icon's 2.0" shocks for the rear. They would have something available, or could build it. If you are in the NorthWest, see if MetalTech could help out. Aren't the 723 springs for 200kgs loaded? If so, I would go to the stock load springs, the shop you got them from should exchange them, there always is the installation fee. I would also get an aftermarket Upper Control Arm for the front. I have Total Chaos, but Slee Offroad markets one too.
As far as checking things over and experimentation:
Front:
Lower your height a touch on the front, it may be topping out a bit.
Double check that they torqued the bottom bolt on the shocks. It should be the last thing to tighten and when loaded on the ground. It could've been tightened prior to them setting the rig down.
Rear:
Make sure the rear springs are seated.
Make sure the rear trailing arms are tightened.
As Bill suggested, tighten the shocks and then use an extra nut on top of the one supplied. It's a pain to get in there, but may help.
I would tighten the lower bolt in the same fashion as the front.
Try riding around with 400lbs in the back. See how it reacts and noise it makes.
Check to make sure your spare is installed correctly (not upsidown or something) and that it is in place. I find if I sit on the ground and push my spare in a bit before I tighten it up, it almost seats into place. I need to do this because I have a 5 wheel rotation method and full, matching spare. It's bigger than the stock wheel and needs a wee bit of manipulation to get mounted into place. I can't count the number of times I've thought "what the hell is that noise now!", checked my spare and sure enough the chain was banging or wheel or something.
Hang in there and enjoy it how it is for now, while you are resolving some things. I know through modding other trucks and cars, it never, ever works out how you want right away. The more you tweak, the more tweaking you need to do. If you give it some love, it will come together and it's a true joy to drive.
I had everything purchased through a 'localish' off-road fab shop. They represent Radflo locally. Work was done by my guy.
If I were in your situation, I would match up the fronts you have with Icon's 2.0" shocks for the rear. They would have something available, or could build it. If you are in the NorthWest, see if MetalTech could help out. Aren't the 723 springs for 200kgs loaded? If so, I would go to the stock load springs, the shop you got them from should exchange them, there always is the installation fee. I would also get an aftermarket Upper Control Arm for the front. I have Total Chaos, but Slee Offroad markets one too.
As far as checking things over and experimentation:
Front:
Lower your height a touch on the front, it may be topping out a bit.
Double check that they torqued the bottom bolt on the shocks. It should be the last thing to tighten and when loaded on the ground. It could've been tightened prior to them setting the rig down.
Rear:
Make sure the rear springs are seated.
Make sure the rear trailing arms are tightened.
As Bill suggested, tighten the shocks and then use an extra nut on top of the one supplied. It's a pain to get in there, but may help.
I would tighten the lower bolt in the same fashion as the front.
Try riding around with 400lbs in the back. See how it reacts and noise it makes.
Check to make sure your spare is installed correctly (not upsidown or something) and that it is in place. I find if I sit on the ground and push my spare in a bit before I tighten it up, it almost seats into place. I need to do this because I have a 5 wheel rotation method and full, matching spare. It's bigger than the stock wheel and needs a wee bit of manipulation to get mounted into place. I can't count the number of times I've thought "what the hell is that noise now!", checked my spare and sure enough the chain was banging or wheel or something.
Hang in there and enjoy it how it is for now, while you are resolving some things. I know through modding other trucks and cars, it never, ever works out how you want right away. The more you tweak, the more tweaking you need to do. If you give it some love, it will come together and it's a true joy to drive.
Get a good 4 wheel alignment guy...this happens all the time with solid rear axle, they were in there, loosening everything up to get the springs out and in, there may have been little or no adjusting to get it straight when they were buttoning it up.
Bought my 722s from another member, actually, he gave them to me. Would I take a gift from him again for the rig...in a heartbeat.
Slee Off-road has a good selection of Old Man Emu stuff, I have bought from them in the past, and would again in the future.
