Builds My 1994 FZJ80 Build (Endurance) (2 Viewers)

[Aggiesdm]

Got a quote of $220 for parts and labor to replace both U joints Does this sounds just about right ?

I need to have mine done soon and priced the u-joints from Toyota. They were around $160 so your price is probably right depending on which brand you use and whatnot. A good shop with lift, press and experience can probably knock them out in an hour.

 

[lp2k]

Yea that's what I'm guessing .. prob $160 parts and $60 labor ...

my mechanic is probably going to use aftermarket parts since he said its pretty universal for U joint jobs

Can anyone let me know if they had issues running aftermarket U joints ?

 

[scrowley]

Aftermarket u joints wear out very fast on a modded 80. My first set I put in (MOOG OEM replacement) was loose/worn in about 8k miles. I do have 4" lift though. If you are at factory height and don't wheel they will prob. be fine for awhile. Not like the toyota ones that last well over 100k. If you plan on lifting and wheeling then go OEM.

As for the price. Is this for one shaft?? The aftermarket u joints for the rear are no more than $50 for both. So if your price is for just one shaft the price is too high. If its for both shafts then sounds good.

 

[lp2k]

Yes he quoted me for both shafts so I won't nickel and dime the job and go ahead and pull the trigger

 

[lp2k]

UPDATE: This is NOT the way to replace U-joints. The correct way is to use the correct tool. The tiger tool makes replacing U joints simpler and prevents damage. I paid this mechanic and over 7 years, learned how to do jobs like this myself. Life lesson learned.

U Joint job (parts and labor $220)
On 2/8/2014

This was done without lifting the truck, Alvin came by and I helped push the truck forward and reverse so he can loosen the bolts out. Pre soak with WD40 was important and yea we hit the wall when he brought his aftermarket parts and they didn't match up , he said he is going to search for the correct ones and bring it back.

Here are some pics

 

[scrowley]

Moog makes factory replacements that are ok. OEM toyota are beefy and last for a LONG time. The aftermarkets don't last long IMO.
Looks like Alvin needs to buy the u joint c clamp press. Cheap tool. worth every penny. Better than having to beat the s*** out of your driveshaft yokes. Ah well. I did it with a sledge hammer for years too.

 

[lp2k]

Moog makes factory replacements that are ok. OEM toyota are beefy and last for a LONG time. The aftermarkets don't last long IMO. Looks like Alvin needs to buy the u joint c clamp press. Cheap tool. worth every penny. Better than having to beat the s*** out of your driveshaft yokes. Ah well. I did it with a sledge hammer for years too.

Thanks scrolwey .. I think he did bring moog but got 95-97 parts Instead of the 94 ones.. Was there A change from 94 to 95? Anyone can answer that one ?

 

[lp2k]

ok well we were able to get the moog U joints in, wow, it shifts so much smoother and rides so much softer... amazing


still trying to track a decent australian to work with on getting some oem aux tank stuff, may even contract summer time work to landtank to move a oem ff/fr locker into my non-locker truck.. more to come

the final step will be a 4 inch slee lift, maybe larger tires, and then a nice $1500 paint job to factory green

 

[lp2k]

Can someone let me know if I was to do a paint Job

Can I remove the door handles and roof rack easily or do they break in the removal process ? Trying to see if when the time comes to paint the truck I'll have to buy clips or a new roof rack or if the outside door handles are a pita to remove

 

[jatrekker]

Love your post on the rebuild....

I just started on mine and will be watching your thread for ideas on what I need to resolve

Thanks so much for the all the details and pictures.

Here are two pictures of mine on the mechanic's lift and it's first test drive [in the snow]. Still have a lot to do but, hopefully, your postings will give help me...

 

[lp2k]

I just started on mine and will be watching your thread for ideas on what I need to resolve Thanks so much for the all the details and pictures. Here are two pictures of mine on the mechanic's lift and it's first test drive [in the snow]. Still have a lot to do but, hopefully, your postings will give help me...

No problem at all and thanks for commenting

It's a very strong vehicle .. I have driven many but this thing is really a beast in sheep clothing

 

[lp2k]

Update on my build

Nothing

Bought a house and she pulled my 13 foot trailer to move all the house crap

Made 3 runs at 120 miles round trip.

Just sits in the driveway

2nd battery installed yet? No
Aux fuel tank installed yet? No
Paint job done ? No dammit ... I'll get to all these asap

 

[92LXAZ]

Haha! Best build update ever!

 

[lp2k]

I know @92LXAZ I'm trying :/ from buying the aux tank , I finally bought George ECU ... Dead crawl

 

[jtwopark]

Dont use Autozone ujoints..they blow.....oriely's same stuff, napa seems to have okay to decent u joints though...

 

[jtwopark]

duralast=duracrap!

 

[Hornd]

You can remove the Outter Rails for Roof Rack by removing the screws. Put all parts in a bag
The long runners connected to the roof have that foam double sided tape (like they use to hold molding on). They can be removed with heat gun; but big job. You could likely just paint around them if they are good and stuck.
It's good to check under the outter rails as there a horror stories of some finding massive amounts of hidden rust.
Many throw the roof rack out and replace with aftermarket.

 

[lp2k]

Ok so back to the truck. Fished out my aux tank and time to get back to installing this bad boy. Can anyone identify the part number needed for the female ends for these 2 connections.

Ok so the first one is the connection that is on top the aux tank. I'm following the build that I believe was done with installing a 44 gallon tank. The picture shows

• Yellow/red stripe goes to the overhead console
• Yellow/green to George ECU

Now I've read that I needed a ground for this to work. Can someone chime in on this one? @elmariachi @clownmidget @S.CarolinaFZJ80 @pkelly72 @SWCruiser

Anyone know the part number for the female end? The connection didn't have a 5 digit on it

Now here is the connection for the overhead gauge pod. Anyone knows the female end part number ? Going to make my own wiring

• Grey is for ground
• Red is for 12v
• Yellow/red stripe is to the sending unit
• Black is for lighting connect to ground
• Blue / red stripe (lighting but where to tap into?)
• Green (lighting but where to tap into?)

 

[lp2k]

@beno @cdan @Akella does any one of you know and can obtain the female ends for these 2 connectors mentioned above ?

 

[lp2k]

Bump for 12/17