you'll like the alternator upgrade. It opens so many doors.
Builds My 1993 FZJ80 Build
- Thread starter xetura
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- #42
Yeah, the plan after this is to install my winch, then dual batteries at some point, an inverter, a 'power center' in the rear right panel and an amplifier for my speakers. But the winch is number one right now. I'm currently pricing out building a garage that can house a lift right now, so I'll probably forgo any new purchases until I figure that out and just focus on installing things that I already have that I've put off forever (winch, aux relay/fuse box, headlights, led side and rear lights, some sound deadening, etc.).
- Thread starter
- #43
Got my bracket kit from Photoman. Really impressive quality and attention to detail.
- Thread starter
- #44
An update! I actually got the alternator going back in April, but I've been terrible at updating this thread. Having a 13 month old really takes a lot of time and effort haha. Along with the alternator, I replaced all of the non-threading power steering hoses while I had all the electrical stuff removed. It made it much easier and I don't have leaks anymore, either.
Battery tray and alternator pulled.
Due to the new alternator being 150a, I decided to upgrade the cable going to the battery to 1/0 gauge. I also needed different battery terminals that had multiple better cable support.
Time to make the alternator cable:
Cable is all nice and juicy with flux for easy soldering.
Battery tray and alternator pulled.
Due to the new alternator being 150a, I decided to upgrade the cable going to the battery to 1/0 gauge. I also needed different battery terminals that had multiple better cable support.
Time to make the alternator cable:
Cable is all nice and juicy with flux for easy soldering.
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- Thread starter
- #45
A little torch action with some heat shrink and this is what we get.
This cable was kind of odd and did a Y to the alternator and battery, so I cut it, soldered and heat-shrinked it to connect directly to the new battery terminal.
150a alternator installed and new 1/0 alternator cable re-wrapped and taped up.
New terminals all hooked up along with bigger grommets I installed in the battery tray. I used a hole saw on my drill press to the the mounting holes nice and straight.
This cable was kind of odd and did a Y to the alternator and battery, so I cut it, soldered and heat-shrinked it to connect directly to the new battery terminal.
150a alternator installed and new 1/0 alternator cable re-wrapped and taped up.
New terminals all hooked up along with bigger grommets I installed in the battery tray. I used a hole saw on my drill press to the the mounting holes nice and straight.
- Thread starter
- #46
Another issue I've been having is my speedometer stopped working a while back and I dreaded having to try and figure it out. Everything on here that I read pointed to bad wiring. My cruise control didn't work, so supposedly that meant that I had a bad wire somewhere, but all wires going back to the speed sensor tested fine. I replaced the speed sensor as well, but no change. So I did the fun thing and pulled the cluster out. Once I got the speedo pulled, this is what I found:
Crispy like a BBQ lol.
I tested it with my multimeter and the small trace was the only one that wasn't getting connection, so I repaired it with a strand of Cat6 cable. Flux is your friend with these old connections. I popped the speedometer back in and verified it's now working once again!
Other small things I've fixed:
Hood Struts.
And the charcoal canister.
Crispy like a BBQ lol.
I tested it with my multimeter and the small trace was the only one that wasn't getting connection, so I repaired it with a strand of Cat6 cable. Flux is your friend with these old connections. I popped the speedometer back in and verified it's now working once again!
Other small things I've fixed:
Hood Struts.
And the charcoal canister.
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- Thread starter
- #47
With the cluster and switches all out, I decided to go through the dash lights and replace whatever I could. After figuring out which lights needed to be replaced, I made an order at Bulb Town and that should be arriving today.
But of course, there's always something that's a giant pain in the ass... the stupid key switch light. I pulled the relay out and everything on that tests out fine, so I'm going to clean that up and put it back together.
What I found is the blue/yellow wire isn't getting any voltage, no matter what state the driver door is in. Red/green gets 12v when the door is closed.
And that's where I'm at. I started installing my backup camera yesterday and will hopefully get to that throughout the week, but right now I'm just tackling these 'smaller' issues/projects before I start digging into low-idle issue (which is the biggest issue I have with my rig atm). I'm going to start by replacing vacuum lines and go from there, but I do have new injectors that I haven't installed yet, along with a new FPR and fuel filter. So we'll see what happens next.
But of course, there's always something that's a giant pain in the ass... the stupid key switch light. I pulled the relay out and everything on that tests out fine, so I'm going to clean that up and put it back together.
What I found is the blue/yellow wire isn't getting any voltage, no matter what state the driver door is in. Red/green gets 12v when the door is closed.
And that's where I'm at. I started installing my backup camera yesterday and will hopefully get to that throughout the week, but right now I'm just tackling these 'smaller' issues/projects before I start digging into low-idle issue (which is the biggest issue I have with my rig atm). I'm going to start by replacing vacuum lines and go from there, but I do have new injectors that I haven't installed yet, along with a new FPR and fuel filter. So we'll see what happens next.
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- Thread starter
- #48
To tackle the low/rough idle, I decided to redo all the vacuum lines, replace the fuel injectors, FPR and fuel filter. I have a clean intake manifold I bought a while back to swap in when I do the injectors as well and I'll give the throttle body a good cleaning. I suspect I have some clogged ports from the EGR and/or bad vacuum lines. I haven't decided if I'm going to swap the lower portion of the intake manifold yet, but will decide once I get it apart and inspect it. It might just be worth it to go ahead and do it while everything is apart.
I also grabbed a few other goodies like a new rear dome light (mine is severely corroded and the switch is faulty), front seat reclining handles, cigerette lighter bulb, new windshield wiper nozzles and a pcv valve and hose refresh.
8499910250 (1) Instrument Panel Light Bulb (CIGARETTE LIGHTER; KEY CYLINDER LAMP.)
812406003003 (1) LAMP ASSEMBLY ROOM, NO. 1; ROOM, NO. 2. GRAY
725251004122 (1) Seat Track Adjust Handle (Right) BLACK
725261004122 (1) Seat Track Adjust Handle (Left) BLACK
2227166010 (1) Fuel Injection Throttle Body Mounting Gasket
9030107001 (6) RING O(FOR FUEL INJECTOR); O(FOR FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR); O(FOR PULSATION DAMPER).
9048013005 (6) Fuel Injector Seal
2329141010 (6) Fuel Injector Seal
1717966010 (1) GASKET, INTAKE MANIFOLD, NO. 2
1717166010 (1) GASKET, INTAKE TO EXHAUST MANIFOLD
9048018001 (1) PCV Valve Grommet
1220435040 (1) PCV Valve
9046720002 (2) CLIP; CLIP OR CLAMP
1226266021 (1) HOSE, VENTILATION, NO. 2
9046714001 (2) CLIP; CLIP OR CLAMP FOR VENTILATION HOSE; FOR VENTILATION HOSE NO. 2.
1226166021 (1) HOSE, VENTILATION
9009933080 (1) HOSE; HOSE OR PIPE; JOINT; PIPE; TUBE
9046709014 (2) CLIP FOR HOOD INSULATOR; FOR HOOD REAR.
8538142070 (2) Windshield Washer Nozzle (Front)
9099992003 (6) HOSE; HOSE SUB-ASSEMBLY; PIPE ASSEMBLY
The rear domelight switch wasn't working consistently and I noticed if I touched the switch, it would flicker on or off. Switching it back and forth a bunch of times kind of made it work, but not 100%. I pulled the lens off and was met with this.... yeah, I'll just get a new one. I'm not going to mess with trying to take it apart and clean it.
Can you guess which one is new? lol
More to come...
I also grabbed a few other goodies like a new rear dome light (mine is severely corroded and the switch is faulty), front seat reclining handles, cigerette lighter bulb, new windshield wiper nozzles and a pcv valve and hose refresh.
8499910250 (1) Instrument Panel Light Bulb (CIGARETTE LIGHTER; KEY CYLINDER LAMP.)
812406003003 (1) LAMP ASSEMBLY ROOM, NO. 1; ROOM, NO. 2. GRAY
725251004122 (1) Seat Track Adjust Handle (Right) BLACK
725261004122 (1) Seat Track Adjust Handle (Left) BLACK
2227166010 (1) Fuel Injection Throttle Body Mounting Gasket
9030107001 (6) RING O(FOR FUEL INJECTOR); O(FOR FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR); O(FOR PULSATION DAMPER).
9048013005 (6) Fuel Injector Seal
2329141010 (6) Fuel Injector Seal
1717966010 (1) GASKET, INTAKE MANIFOLD, NO. 2
1717166010 (1) GASKET, INTAKE TO EXHAUST MANIFOLD
9048018001 (1) PCV Valve Grommet
1220435040 (1) PCV Valve
9046720002 (2) CLIP; CLIP OR CLAMP
1226266021 (1) HOSE, VENTILATION, NO. 2
9046714001 (2) CLIP; CLIP OR CLAMP FOR VENTILATION HOSE; FOR VENTILATION HOSE NO. 2.
1226166021 (1) HOSE, VENTILATION
9009933080 (1) HOSE; HOSE OR PIPE; JOINT; PIPE; TUBE
9046709014 (2) CLIP FOR HOOD INSULATOR; FOR HOOD REAR.
8538142070 (2) Windshield Washer Nozzle (Front)
9099992003 (6) HOSE; HOSE SUB-ASSEMBLY; PIPE ASSEMBLY
The rear domelight switch wasn't working consistently and I noticed if I touched the switch, it would flicker on or off. Switching it back and forth a bunch of times kind of made it work, but not 100%. I pulled the lens off and was met with this.... yeah, I'll just get a new one. I'm not going to mess with trying to take it apart and clean it.
Can you guess which one is new? lol
More to come...
- Thread starter
- #49
Some small updates, but still updates. Got the dome light installed with an led bulb. Works pretty well. The new switch is extremely satisfying compared to the old crusty one.
New seat adjusters installed with new hex hardware. My rig never had these, so it's nice to have. The wife loves this addition lol.
The rear left tail light has been broken for some time now and I've had these brand new lights sitting in their boxes, but I finally got them installed.
New tail lights.
Old left tail light.
New tail lights installed. Much better.
New seat adjusters installed with new hex hardware. My rig never had these, so it's nice to have. The wife loves this addition lol.
The rear left tail light has been broken for some time now and I've had these brand new lights sitting in their boxes, but I finally got them installed.
New tail lights.
Old left tail light.
New tail lights installed. Much better.
- Thread starter
- #50
In my quest to make the key light work again, I got into the dash to size up some speakers I got and ran across the blue/yellow wire that doesn't seem to work on my key light relay. I ran continuity between the relay and this connector and they're connected. This plug is from the stock stereo amplifier I took out years ago when I first got the rig and put my new head unit in. I'm now wondering why the relay is tied into the amplifier at all, but I'll be looking for any connections in the service manual when I get the time.
Speaking of service manuals.... I got mine in the mail. So nice to have this when I need it and not have to flip through tons of pdf's.
Nice and thick lol.
Speaking of service manuals.... I got mine in the mail. So nice to have this when I need it and not have to flip through tons of pdf's.
Nice and thick lol.
- Thread starter
- #51
Nothing too exciting yet, but I got my order from Impex yesterday. If I would've bought all of this from the dealer, it was going to be $671.01. I got it from Impex for $337.27 shipped and it didn't take as long as I expected, either. 6 days to get the parts into their warehouse and 2 days shipping from Japan via DHL. I actually paid $16 more for DHL instead of Fedex because I've head nothing but issues with them.
If I'm being completely honest, the most exciting thing for me is the steering column cover lol. I never thought I'd be able to get a new one and paying $40 vs $120 is pretty amazing.
Parts list:
68151-60010 (1) RUN, FRONT DOOR GLASS, LEFT ($101.17 dealer, $37.30 Impex)
68141-60010 (1) RUN, FRONT DOOR GLASS, RIGHT ($101.17 dealer, $37.30 Impex)
68152-60011 (1) RUN, REAR DOOR GLASS, LEFT ($95.82 dealer, $35.53 Impex)
68142-60011 (1) RUN, REAR DOOR GLASS, RIGHT ($95.82 dealer, $35.53 Impex)
84540-60010 (1) Automatic Transmission Gear Position Sensor ($152.59 dealer, $99.23 Impex)
45286-60953-C0 (1) COVER SET, STEERING C ($118.79 dealer, $39.78 Impex)
90164-50048 (2) SCREW, BINDING TAPPI ($2.32 dealer, $1.78 Impex)
93315-14010 (3) SCREW, WITH WASHER ($3.33 dealer, $3.72 Impex)
Impex shipping = $47.10
$671.01 vs $337.27
I also grabbed the rear passenger door lock actuator. I didn't realize this was an issue until after I had placed my Impex order and didn't want to spend the shipping for 1 item, so I just grabbed this off Amazon.
I'm still having issues with my sunroof leaking and need to figure that out. I cleaned the drains a couple years ago and replaced the rear facing hose, pulled the front one through the bottom of the truck for direct drainage, but I was never able to resolve the issue. I might just seal it up at this point if I can't figure something out. Such a pain in the ass.
If I'm being completely honest, the most exciting thing for me is the steering column cover lol. I never thought I'd be able to get a new one and paying $40 vs $120 is pretty amazing.
Parts list:
68151-60010 (1) RUN, FRONT DOOR GLASS, LEFT ($101.17 dealer, $37.30 Impex)
68141-60010 (1) RUN, FRONT DOOR GLASS, RIGHT ($101.17 dealer, $37.30 Impex)
68152-60011 (1) RUN, REAR DOOR GLASS, LEFT ($95.82 dealer, $35.53 Impex)
68142-60011 (1) RUN, REAR DOOR GLASS, RIGHT ($95.82 dealer, $35.53 Impex)
84540-60010 (1) Automatic Transmission Gear Position Sensor ($152.59 dealer, $99.23 Impex)
45286-60953-C0 (1) COVER SET, STEERING C ($118.79 dealer, $39.78 Impex)
90164-50048 (2) SCREW, BINDING TAPPI ($2.32 dealer, $1.78 Impex)
93315-14010 (3) SCREW, WITH WASHER ($3.33 dealer, $3.72 Impex)
Impex shipping = $47.10
$671.01 vs $337.27
I also grabbed the rear passenger door lock actuator. I didn't realize this was an issue until after I had placed my Impex order and didn't want to spend the shipping for 1 item, so I just grabbed this off Amazon.
I'm still having issues with my sunroof leaking and need to figure that out. I cleaned the drains a couple years ago and replaced the rear facing hose, pulled the front one through the bottom of the truck for direct drainage, but I was never able to resolve the issue. I might just seal it up at this point if I can't figure something out. Such a pain in the ass.
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You might have a windshield leak. Happened to me. I did everything you did, including routing the drainage hose at the kick panel through one of the floor board holes. Helped some. I didn’t get the leak to stop completely until I resealed the windshield.
- Thread starter
- #54
I have a windshield leak as well, but I can see the water dripping out of the sunroof. I've tested it with the sunroof open and what happens is the water pools up and doesn't get channeled to the drains properly. Not sure if there's any pieces broken or missing since I have no frame of reference.
- Thread starter
- #55
I've been back at it again for the last few weeks after getting through some mental health issues and coming out stronger.
I finally installed the brand new steering wheel column cover. I definitely need to get the steering wheel wrapped, but it's not in the budget right now. The dash is still apart from when I fixed the speedometer and replaced all the dash lights. Recently I started designing and printing a bracket to replace the worthless ashtray. I'm about 9 prototypes in and still refining it, but it's coming along.
I finally installed the brand new steering wheel column cover. I definitely need to get the steering wheel wrapped, but it's not in the budget right now. The dash is still apart from when I fixed the speedometer and replaced all the dash lights. Recently I started designing and printing a bracket to replace the worthless ashtray. I'm about 9 prototypes in and still refining it, but it's coming along.
- Thread starter
- #56
The biggest project lately has been removing the carpet in that back (what a pain) and installing sound deadening. I'm using 80 mil Noico deadening on the metal, then using their closed cell foam over that. Unfortunately Noico isn't available anymore, so I ordered some 120 mil thick Siless deadening mat and their foil backed closed cell foam. That'll be here today and I can continue this adventure. I was originally planning on getting MLV backed replacement carpet as the final sound deadening layer, but might do the MLV seperate since I can get it thicker. But we'll see.
The stock carpet is falling apart, so eventually I'd like to get it replaced.
Always good to have a helper!
This jute padding is STUCK to the metal. It is the bane of my existence. I've done sound deadening on several cars and this has definitely been the biggest pain in the ass haha.
The stock carpet is falling apart, so eventually I'd like to get it replaced.
Always good to have a helper!
This jute padding is STUCK to the metal. It is the bane of my existence. I've done sound deadening on several cars and this has definitely been the biggest pain in the ass haha.
- Thread starter
- #57
Time to take a break and start the roast for dinner.
I took a wire wheel on my angle grinder to clean off all that nasty jute crap. Then took a cleaning brush and some cleaner to it to get it nice and clean.
I took a wire wheel on my angle grinder to clean off all that nasty jute crap. Then took a cleaning brush and some cleaner to it to get it nice and clean.
- Thread starter
- #58
Now onto cleaning the carpet. I used a drill brush with cleaner, then used my extractor. Worked really well.
First up was the rear wheel arch carpet.
Before.
After for one.
And the other.
First up was the rear wheel arch carpet.
Before.
After for one.
And the other.
- Thread starter
- #59
Then the mid section carpet. This one was really nasty.
Before.
After.
Time for dinner.
Then after dinner, I went back at it. Placed all the sound deadening mat I had left, then cleaned the tailgate carpet.
Before.
After.
Time for dinner.
Then after dinner, I went back at it. Placed all the sound deadening mat I had left, then cleaned the tailgate carpet.
- Thread starter
- #60
Then as the last item for the day, I cleaned and painted the front tunnel/shifter cover. I used some leather conditioner on the shift boot as well.
