Road Apple
SILVER Star
Nice list of mods and to-do-list. Gave me a few ideas.
Keep the updates coming
Keep the updates coming
Builds My 1993 FZJ80 Build
- Thread starter xetura
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #22
As soon as I can afford some armor. Just trying to decide on what to do first: armor, rear bumper, suspension, exhaust or stand alone fuel management. Probably going to go with suspension or armor, but I'm not sure yet. I do have 30mm spacers for a temp bump in height, but I'm gonna need more up front when I install the winch...
- Thread starter
- #23
I went ahead and installed the Man-a-Fre front spring spacers and front brake pads this weekend. The pads were the easiest ones I've ever done. I'm so used to having to take off the calipers to do a pad change, that this was a pleasant surprise. My driver side pad was completely gone and the base of the pad was digging into the caliper. I got some cheapies at Autozone to last me over until my new cross-drilled and slotted Stoptech rotors get here. I'll be using Hawk HPS pads with them. I use them on all my vehicles and love them.
Here's how she sits now. Much better! I'm sure that won't last long since I'm installing the winch fairly soon, but it needed to be done.
Here's how she sits now. Much better! I'm sure that won't last long since I'm installing the winch fairly soon, but it needed to be done.
- Thread starter
- #24
Just got more parts. 7x LED lights for various uses, new Stoptech brake rotors and Hawk HPS pads. I also ordered a new vapor cannister from Autozone(vc120 $55) and a relay/fuse panel from Wired Wagon to help with my light installs.
The 28" unit is from Ebay, $55 shipped. I sealed it with silicon since the cheap ones tend to leak. This will go on my bumper. The 4x 6 led units were from Ebay too, $36 shipped for all 4. Also sealed with silicon. The 2x flat ones were from Ebay as well, $18 shipped. I'm going to put these where the stock ARB turn signals are. This will require some cutting.
Hawk HPS pads.
Stoptech Rotors.
I'll be adding more here soon after I get back from breakfast.
The 28" unit is from Ebay, $55 shipped. I sealed it with silicon since the cheap ones tend to leak. This will go on my bumper. The 4x 6 led units were from Ebay too, $36 shipped for all 4. Also sealed with silicon. The 2x flat ones were from Ebay as well, $18 shipped. I'm going to put these where the stock ARB turn signals are. This will require some cutting.
Hawk HPS pads.
Stoptech Rotors.
I'll be adding more here soon after I get back from breakfast.
- Thread starter
- #25
Wasn't feeling well after breakfast on Saturday, so I did some resting. But I'm back at it again....
I got these lights I got off of Ebay a couple months back. It was impossible to find any headlights that had the proper cutoff for HID lights. These were the only ones I could find. I'm not going to be that a****** that puts HIDs in a non-hid headlight housing and blinds everyone they drive by. It's dangerous and it pisses me off.
With that being said, I didn't buy these lights for their looks, but for their function. I'll be applying a light smoke tint to them as soon as that gets here in the mail and that should make them look a little better.
I'll be installing an OPT7 55w HID kit for the main beams and same for my h3 Harbor Freight round off-road lights.
I got these lights I got off of Ebay a couple months back. It was impossible to find any headlights that had the proper cutoff for HID lights. These were the only ones I could find. I'm not going to be that a****** that puts HIDs in a non-hid headlight housing and blinds everyone they drive by. It's dangerous and it pisses me off.
With that being said, I didn't buy these lights for their looks, but for their function. I'll be applying a light smoke tint to them as soon as that gets here in the mail and that should make them look a little better.
I'll be installing an OPT7 55w HID kit for the main beams and same for my h3 Harbor Freight round off-road lights.
- Thread starter
- #26
More electrical goodies:
Relay & Fuse box from Wired Wagon.
Weatherpack connectors to hook everything up.
Relay & Fuse box from Wired Wagon.
Weatherpack connectors to hook everything up.
- Thread starter
- #28
I soldered the lugs for the negative cables. I always have when I upgrade to 0 gauge grounds on all of my vehicles. Its always worked well for me and I don't need a special crimping tool.
I finally got around to installing one of my light bars. I removed the Harbor Freight lights and mounted the bar in their place. I used my new Weatherpack connectors and soldered the wire to the terminals for a superior connection and guarantee it won't ever fall off due to poor crimping. I left two terminals free for when I add more lights, but I just realized that I would need a six terminal connector for three lights... lol oh well, the terminals are easily removed from the Weatherpack housings with the included tool.
Hopefully I'll be able to get more done tomorrow. I removed the spare tire carrier from underneath, bought square tubing, 6" bolts and nuts to raise the spare tire. I didn't buy strong enough bolts like an idiot. While tightening one of the bolts, it just snapped haha. I'll need to go get stronger ones tomorrow and finish that little project. It should raise the spare up by about 5" and is much needed with the 33" spare underneath. I really need to do the rear brakes, install the rear spring spacers and install the winch, but I'll see how much time I have tomorrow.
I finally got around to installing one of my light bars. I removed the Harbor Freight lights and mounted the bar in their place. I used my new Weatherpack connectors and soldered the wire to the terminals for a superior connection and guarantee it won't ever fall off due to poor crimping. I left two terminals free for when I add more lights, but I just realized that I would need a six terminal connector for three lights... lol oh well, the terminals are easily removed from the Weatherpack housings with the included tool.
Hopefully I'll be able to get more done tomorrow. I removed the spare tire carrier from underneath, bought square tubing, 6" bolts and nuts to raise the spare tire. I didn't buy strong enough bolts like an idiot. While tightening one of the bolts, it just snapped haha. I'll need to go get stronger ones tomorrow and finish that little project. It should raise the spare up by about 5" and is much needed with the 33" spare underneath. I really need to do the rear brakes, install the rear spring spacers and install the winch, but I'll see how much time I have tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #29
I was able to finish the spare tire mod, but it ended up taking a lot more time than it should of. I got the grade 8 bolts, but didn't check each and every one for size, so I ended up with a few that were too short and had to go back to the hardware store. Then once I got it all bolted together and ready to mount, it just wouldn't fit. I shorted all the steel tubing to 4.75" instead of 5" and that seemed to do the trick. I got the idea from this youtube video.
I also removed the bulky hitch that hangs down too far. I'll be using a Pintle style one from now on since all I use is a cargo carrier and don't need to tow anything. The tire definitely is quite a bit higher up now!
I got the rear brakes 90% done. It stops so much better now, I just need to adjust the parking brake now. I figured I'd put new shoes in since I was replacing the rotors.
I didn't have enough time to do the rear spacers, but the brakes were the most important thing to get done and took longer than they should of. The first side took a while since it was my first time on this truck. The other side went four times as fast, especially the brake shoes. So many springs and parts to lose and forget where they go lol.
I also removed the bulky hitch that hangs down too far. I'll be using a Pintle style one from now on since all I use is a cargo carrier and don't need to tow anything. The tire definitely is quite a bit higher up now!
I got the rear brakes 90% done. It stops so much better now, I just need to adjust the parking brake now. I figured I'd put new shoes in since I was replacing the rotors.
I didn't have enough time to do the rear spacers, but the brakes were the most important thing to get done and took longer than they should of. The first side took a while since it was my first time on this truck. The other side went four times as fast, especially the brake shoes. So many springs and parts to lose and forget where they go lol.
If you are going to ditch the running boards, don't do so until you buy sliders. Here is what happens without sliders. With this dent you won't be able to open or close one of your doors or water will leak in even when it is raining. It is extremely difficult to fix damage in this area!
- Thread starter
- #31
Yep, that's the plan. I already bent the passenger side running board playing around in the mud the other weekend. They're weak protection, but better than bending up the underside of the truck!
I may just be looking at it wrong, but did you space down the center of the spare tire holder also? If so, your tire won't be much higher, if any.
Don't worry about removing the running boards before getting sliders as the running boards won't offer any protection. My rocker is dented from when I had the running boards on. I have since removed them and still don't have sliders, but no new dents either.
Don't worry about removing the running boards before getting sliders as the running boards won't offer any protection. My rocker is dented from when I had the running boards on. I have since removed them and still don't have sliders, but no new dents either.
- Thread starter
- #33
The limitations with the stock mounting isn't the center point, it's the outer part of where the tire rests. I can assure you that my spare is much higher than it was before, especially by the differential. It now sits flush instead of being at an angle as well.
I don't do any crazy wheeling(at least not yet), so I'm not too worried about the running boards. Money is tight right now, so I probably won't be able to afford sliders for a while.
- Thread starter
- #34
Alright, things are slow going as I'm trying to clean out my old place and move stuff to my new place. In the meantime, I'm going to be driving my Audi so I can save on gas money.
I got two brand new NTK oxygen sensors, so I parked the Cruiser in my garage yesterday so I could wait for the exhaust to cool down. When I took a look, I noticed that the exhaust was leaking at the flange right before each catalytic converter. This leads me to believe the cats are clogged, and that would explain its lack of power and the exhaust being forced out of the flanges. I'm hoping I can drop the cats down today after work and take a look. Luckily the bolts aren't rusted to hell, so hopefully it won't be too difficult. This will make the o2 sensor install easier as well. If the cats are indeed clogged, I'm just going to gut them as a temp solution until I can afford replacing them properly.
I got two brand new NTK oxygen sensors, so I parked the Cruiser in my garage yesterday so I could wait for the exhaust to cool down. When I took a look, I noticed that the exhaust was leaking at the flange right before each catalytic converter. This leads me to believe the cats are clogged, and that would explain its lack of power and the exhaust being forced out of the flanges. I'm hoping I can drop the cats down today after work and take a look. Luckily the bolts aren't rusted to hell, so hopefully it won't be too difficult. This will make the o2 sensor install easier as well. If the cats are indeed clogged, I'm just going to gut them as a temp solution until I can afford replacing them properly.
- Thread starter
- #35
Long time since an update, but my u-joints were going out, so I had the driveshafts checked and they ended up replacing all the u-joints. When I got them back, I was shocked. They look brand new.
But.... I didn't notice until I got home that the front driveshaft was assembled and balanced as being in-phase, not out of phase like it was stock. From my understanding, that is the preferred way to do it, but won't hurt anything if it's in-phase... at least that's what I've gathered from reading on the forums here. I completely spaced on asking them to keep the front out of phase, but I'm going to install them tonight and see how it goes. The front is slightly lifted with spacers, so I'm thinking it will be fine, but we'll see.
But.... I didn't notice until I got home that the front driveshaft was assembled and balanced as being in-phase, not out of phase like it was stock. From my understanding, that is the preferred way to do it, but won't hurt anything if it's in-phase... at least that's what I've gathered from reading on the forums here. I completely spaced on asking them to keep the front out of phase, but I'm going to install them tonight and see how it goes. The front is slightly lifted with spacers, so I'm thinking it will be fine, but we'll see.
- Thread starter
- #36
I got them installed last night and she feels like a whole new rig! No more vibes, no more clanking and clunking when changing from park to reverse or drive, no more clicking and just drives better than she ever has. Really happy now. 
now go for the rear coil springs...your passengers will thank you
2fpower
SILVER Star
Where did you have the driveshafts serviced?
- Thread starter
- #39
I will be upgrading the suspension eventually, but I still haven't decided what I want. I've been thinking about just going with the stock height replacements, but I'd still like a 1"-2" lift with my winch installed. Then I'd like to get armor and a swingout rear bumper eventually as well, so I can't make my mind up which setup I should get. So I'm just not going to bother quite yet until I figure it out.
Driveline Service of Portland.
- Thread starter
- #40
Bringing this back from the dead. Life has changed for me quite a bit the last few years and I'm in such a better place than I was before. AND I still have my Cruiser!
Purchases that haven't been installed yet:
2850J Front Coil Springs
Front Nitrocharger Sport Shocks
2863 Rear Coil Springs
Rear Nitrocharger Sport Shocks
Caster Correction Plate Kit
Slee Front Sway Bar Drop Kit
Slee 4" Extended Brakeline Kit
OME Front Control Arm Bush Kit
My alternator went out last weekend, so I used that as an excuse to finally upgrade. I ordered a Denso 150a reman from Rock Auto. I looked at getting used, but I felt better about getting something fresh. I ordered the bracket kit with the adapter and pulley from Photoman (which should be here today) and the alternator just got here! I'll be installing it this weekend. I also got some 0 gauge wire to upgrade the alternator->battery connection. I'm already running 0 gauge grounds, so I'm good there, but will probably upgrade the other smaller grounds that go from the engine to the firewall, etc.
Purchases that haven't been installed yet:
2850J Front Coil Springs
Front Nitrocharger Sport Shocks
2863 Rear Coil Springs
Rear Nitrocharger Sport Shocks
Caster Correction Plate Kit
Slee Front Sway Bar Drop Kit
Slee 4" Extended Brakeline Kit
OME Front Control Arm Bush Kit
My alternator went out last weekend, so I used that as an excuse to finally upgrade. I ordered a Denso 150a reman from Rock Auto. I looked at getting used, but I felt better about getting something fresh. I ordered the bracket kit with the adapter and pulley from Photoman (which should be here today) and the alternator just got here! I'll be installing it this weekend. I also got some 0 gauge wire to upgrade the alternator->battery connection. I'm already running 0 gauge grounds, so I'm good there, but will probably upgrade the other smaller grounds that go from the engine to the firewall, etc.
