My 1962 FJ40 Project
- Thread starter HuntFishHuntFish
- Start date
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Living in the Past
SILVER Star
No movement at the wheels or the shifters? Little more information. Is the clutch working? Was the clutch released while engine was running? If so then either the transmission or transfer case is in neutral. The column shifter takes some getting use it. The earlier style is even a little more tricky. Without the vehicle running and it blocked in place so it can't roll crawl under and watch the shifter at the transmission while someone else it trying to shift the transmission. If nothing moves undo the shifters right at the transmission. If the column shifter moves problem is with the transmission. If not the problem is in the linkage, Doesn't the transmission is okay but it's a start. Years ago I have a chevy work truck with a three speed column shift. The transmission would not shift complete into neutral before the shifter was in neutral and lock up trying to shift to another gear. The problem was in the linkage adjustment. I would have to adjust the lever at the base of steering column to get it working again.
In stead of replacing the radiator you can think about having it fixed at a radiator shop, they can solder a new cooling block in it.
Did the gears work before bleeding the clutch? Maybe it doesn't disengage completely because there is air in the system.
What tires are those? Still havent decided what way to go.
Did the gears work before bleeding the clutch? Maybe it doesn't disengage completely because there is air in the system.
What tires are those? Still havent decided what way to go.
unfortunately, here in the states, re-coring has gotten sooo freakin' expensive that often a new rad is cheaper
also check to make sure the slave didn't overextend itself and wedge the shaft outwards.
- Thread starter
- #67
Front brakes & Spindle question
Was planning to replace front brake shoes tonight, successfully removed the Warn manual lock hubs, the C-clips, both sets of nuts, etc. and found out the shoes on the front are barely worn. So all I have to replace is the back shoes, which are word down to nothing. One question though - the spindle had about 1/4" of play to it - I could pull it out a quarter inch, then push it back in. Is that normal, or do I have something else to look into?
Picking my radiator up from the repair shop tomorrow - I had agreed to buy one from someone online, but that must have fallen through, no word from him.
Hopefully, I'll have my rig running again this weekend, and I'll look into the transmission issue (which may not be an issue - KY Longhunter advised that I may have had the vacuum on the FD switch engaged, so I will check on that )
Was planning to replace front brake shoes tonight, successfully removed the Warn manual lock hubs, the C-clips, both sets of nuts, etc. and found out the shoes on the front are barely worn. So all I have to replace is the back shoes, which are word down to nothing. One question though - the spindle had about 1/4" of play to it - I could pull it out a quarter inch, then push it back in. Is that normal, or do I have something else to look into?
Picking my radiator up from the repair shop tomorrow - I had agreed to buy one from someone online, but that must have fallen through, no word from him.
Hopefully, I'll have my rig running again this weekend, and I'll look into the transmission issue (which may not be an issue - KY Longhunter advised that I may have had the vacuum on the FD switch engaged, so I will check on that )
had the same issue on annie, had to crank the nuts to get it all tight enough to eliminate that slop
Mike - I remembered that John Smith pointed out to me that the rear driveshaft is out-of-phase, as seen in this picture (the one on top). That caused some major vibration at slow speeds. Alex
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8076324&postcount=173
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8076324&postcount=173
- Thread starter
- #70
Alex: I seem to remember seeing that on your old thread. So, do you have the right drive shaft (the one pictured below) or do I need to find one here on MUD, or order one online, or what? Should be pretty easy to install - my mechanic skilz are starting to get better (unless of course I re-installed the Warn Hubs wrong and they ruin my front end ... but whatever). Ahahah.
you just need to pull it apart and reconnect it correctly. they aren't match correctly at the splines, appear to be one or two off.
- Thread starter
- #72
Well guys ... once again, thanks for the info. So essentially, there's no need for balancing or anything else other than separating and lining up 1 or 2 grooves over. Even I can do that. Course, with the way other "simple" things have gone - I'll end up drilling out 51 yr old bolts and re-tapping holes ... ahahah. Ps: is anyone else better than 9 for 10 in that category? LOL.
i'd say easy peezy, but sometimes, you have to do it a few times to get it to line up, but your two ujoint caps should line up perfectly with each other. (if you look in the pic, you see the two shafts have the yokes/caps at same angle on one end and different angles at the other end, the bottom yoke/cap is twisted inward).
the shafts may be a touch hard to seperate when you get near the end because of vacuum created by the grease, so it may help to get close to seperated and mark the splines with a paint pen so you know where it originally was, then just put it together one spline over, compress and see if they are phased, if not, do it again.
- Thread starter
- #74
Wheel Cylinders
Ok, so over the next year I'll have to learn patience & persistence as well as how to rebuild a 51 yr old vehicle. Last night I was all pumped up about installing my tires, my fixed radiator and starting my rig back up to try and drive it, and BOOOM ! I run into another unexpected problem. Front brakes in great shape, hubs well lubed, etc. I take the bottom shoe off the LR wheel and my Wheel cylinder falls apart. Not kidding - the lower front "plug" (with the brake frame slot) fell out, along with the spring, the boot (seal?) and all fluids. I'm guessing that's not normal. Do I want to rebuild these or just buy new ones? If so, do I go to SOR for best pricing, or somewhere else? I saw where there are part numbers posted ... just looking for options here.
Ok, so over the next year I'll have to learn patience & persistence as well as how to rebuild a 51 yr old vehicle. Last night I was all pumped up about installing my tires, my fixed radiator and starting my rig back up to try and drive it, and BOOOM ! I run into another unexpected problem. Front brakes in great shape, hubs well lubed, etc. I take the bottom shoe off the LR wheel and my Wheel cylinder falls apart. Not kidding - the lower front "plug" (with the brake frame slot) fell out, along with the spring, the boot (seal?) and all fluids. I'm guessing that's not normal. Do I want to rebuild these or just buy new ones? If so, do I go to SOR for best pricing, or somewhere else? I saw where there are part numbers posted ... just looking for options here.
Bummer, not sure about Brake Cylinders.
On driveshaft, just remove the Grease Zerk, separate then reinstall zerk.
On driveshaft, just remove the Grease Zerk, separate then reinstall zerk.
That's kinda normal. technically, fluid should keep it together (a along with the spring that holds the shoe and the boots). Yours probably lost the fluid properties while sitting, so get a hone from your local flaps and hone the cylinders and slap some new seals on and you're good. There are some pics and info near the end of my build thread on Annie, I just did all 8 and the master
- Thread starter
- #77
Drove my FJ40 today !!!!
OK, thanks to the guru's here on Mud, I found my wheel cylinder kits, figured out how to clean and install the new kit and BOOM I got 'er done this afternoon. Bought a 3/4" hone for the cylinder clean up - they looked great when I was done. Bled the lines, installed the radiator again, and drove my FJ40 for a while today!! Next project - drive shaft sync. It definitely ran rough. Remember as you see my pics - I'm just getting it to run safe for the next few months. Then I tear it down to the frame for a full restoration. I was advised (smartly) to have some fun with it before I tear it up .. so I'm not sanding and painting things now. First pic shows honed cylinder, second shows LF RR Wheel.
OK, thanks to the guru's here on Mud, I found my wheel cylinder kits, figured out how to clean and install the new kit and BOOM I got 'er done this afternoon. Bought a 3/4" hone for the cylinder clean up - they looked great when I was done. Bled the lines, installed the radiator again, and drove my FJ40 for a while today!! Next project - drive shaft sync. It definitely ran rough. Remember as you see my pics - I'm just getting it to run safe for the next few months. Then I tear it down to the frame for a full restoration. I was advised (smartly) to have some fun with it before I tear it up .. so I'm not sanding and painting things now. First pic shows honed cylinder, second shows LF RR Wheel.
Looking good Mike!
I'm glad this '62 went to someone that appreciates what it is.
I'm glad this '62 went to someone that appreciates what it is.
- Thread starter
- #79
Driveshaft Phasing
So, after some advice from a few of you and pics from KY Longhunter, I went out and took my driveshaft off to put it into proper "phase". I got to looking at it, and it was actually as far OUT of correct phase as you could get (180 degrees). So, I pulled it apart, lined it up, reinstalled it - and took my rig through all 3 gears up and down the road ! Could not believe how smooth it was. Awesome.
If I can just find a fan shroud and install it, I can drive the thing on the roads for the next couple of months ... I'm SO CLOSE !
So, after some advice from a few of you and pics from KY Longhunter, I went out and took my driveshaft off to put it into proper "phase". I got to looking at it, and it was actually as far OUT of correct phase as you could get (180 degrees). So, I pulled it apart, lined it up, reinstalled it - and took my rig through all 3 gears up and down the road ! Could not believe how smooth it was. Awesome.
If I can just find a fan shroud and install it, I can drive the thing on the roads for the next couple of months ... I'm SO CLOSE !
- Thread starter
- #80
I'd like to nominate myself as the guy who should ask all the dumb questions over the next year or so.
So - after figuring out where my transmission fill plug is located, I removed it and what I think is transmission/gear lube came out immediately - so I'm assuming it was full. But it was pretty thin and the color of 9 month old baby vomit (see also, sort of like a banana milkshake color/consistency). Is this a type of tranny fluid, or is it some fluid that should have been replaced 10 years ago?
So - after figuring out where my transmission fill plug is located, I removed it and what I think is transmission/gear lube came out immediately - so I'm assuming it was full. But it was pretty thin and the color of 9 month old baby vomit (see also, sort of like a banana milkshake color/consistency). Is this a type of tranny fluid, or is it some fluid that should have been replaced 10 years ago?
