My 1962 FJ40 Project

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fjfjfj said:
Also, TOYOTA SPANISH MAROON T-1169 for your bezel lettering. It was an old cruiser color and a perfect match to the original bezel color. A few guys on MUD helped me dial in on that. Pic attached.

Why oh why did Toyota stop doing that (if for no other reason than to show some fools the error of their ways when installing the Bezel)? That looks so nice.
 
Sandblasting.

KY Longhunter asked because I'm struggling with my new HF 110lb Pot blaster. Can't keep the moisture out long enough to run it for more than 30 seconds, even WITH an in-line auxillary dessicant dryer attached. Been using Sillica Sand, going to buy some Black Beauty today. If that doesn't work, I'll build an enclosure in my garage and use Glass & recycle it as long as it works. Had in mind to do the entire job myself, but starting to think the "small pieces vs larger items" plan is sounding about right. Also going to try father in law's Compress-a-saurus this weekend and see if the moisture issue goes away. If so, I may still do the entire thing - but I can't just go buy a $2,000 compressor unless Ky Longhunter has a couch I can live on. :rolleyes:

This weekend I'm going to try to start and run the beast. Pics to follow.
 
KY Longhunter asked because I'm struggling with my new HF 110lb Pot blaster. Can't keep the moisture out long enough to run it for more than 30 seconds, even WITH an in-line auxillary dessicant dryer attached. .

i had the same issues (along with many others) with my harbor freight crap, so i threw it out and go to work. oddly, on the same line, i could get a simple suction blast gun to work. i have since added a super dooper filter setup that i put in line for painting and i used that the last time i blasted at home.

how large is your tank? that's where a lot of the issue comes from. if your compressor is cycling a lot, it will build moisture quick and the dryer won't keep up. even with the siphon gun and two inline filters including my super dooper one (motorguard), it will start putting out moisture after about an hour to hour and a half. i'm running a cheap 60 gallon setup
 
Well, I ran some 20-40 Blk Diamond thru my father in laws compress-a-saurus and it worked well. Took the fuel tank down to nice clean metal although there is a little bit of pitting. Primed it just now. Not totally dry yet. Will install tomorrow and fire the beast up. Cant wait to hear the motor, even though its a 155, not the 135.

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Installed gas tank and fired the ole '62 up on Sunday. Once I got the fuel pump exercised again the truck started immediately and ran like a scalded cat. Engine seemed hot after 10 mins, but I don't have the fan shroud on it yet. Tested thermostat and it worked fine, so I'll reinstall it and the fan shroud tonite and run the beast some more. Question: could "bent" radiator fins cause the engine to get hot as it sits and idles? One minor issue (ok, major) I evidently got over-zealous with my Sandblasting - pic attached shows the pitting that I effectively "cleaned out". After a while gas came thru two small pinholes on the bottom of the tank. I'll have to fix that (carefully...ahhaa). One good thing - I'm taking one step forward and just one step back instead of two ... so there's always that.

One question: does anyone know what the tiny little hole is between the two small bolts on the bottom of this Motorcraft Carb? Fuel leaking out of it pretty badly - any reason I can't plug it so I can run the motor for a few months before I tear it down for full restoration?? Thanks.

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Installed gas tank and fired the ole '62 up on Sunday. Once I got the fuel pump exercised again the truck started immediately and ran like a scalded cat. Engine seemed hot after 10 mins, but I don't have the fan shroud on it yet. Tested thermostat and it worked fine, so I'll reinstall it and the fan shroud tonite and run the beast some more. Question: could "bent" radiator fins cause the engine to get hot as it sits and idles? One minor issue (ok, major) I evidently got over-zealous with my Sandblasting - pic attached shows the pitting that I effectively "cleaned out". After a while gas came thru two small pinholes on the bottom of the tank. I'll have to fix that (carefully...ahhaa). One good thing - I'm taking one step forward and just one step back instead of two ... so there's always that.

One question: does anyone know what the tiny little hole is between the two small bolts on the bottom of this Motorcraft Carb? Fuel leaking out of it pretty badly - any reason I can't plug it so I can run the motor for a few months before I tear it down for full restoration?? Thanks.

Coat the inside of the tank and epoxy the outside
 
Coat the inside of the tank and epoxy the outside

Welp, I coated the inside and epoxy'd the outside. Looks like a good fix for now. I just want to get this thing running for the next 3-4 months, then I'm tearing it down for a full restoration. gas tank was sorta important ... ahah. Last night I re-educated myself on drilling and re-tapping bolts (thermo housing), and reinstalled the thermostat I had previously tested and found in good working condition.

Thermostat housing.webp
 
Wheels Help

I have the original wheels & some awesome new tires to go on them. Noticed that on the centerline of the wheels there is a gasket of sorts about 1 3/4 inch wide. Was this because the original tires were tubed tires? And when I go to get the tubeless tires put on, do I need these same gaskets installed? If I do, would most tire places know what to do, or should I get some new rubber for them ahead of time?? Thanks -
 
I have the original wheels & some awesome new tires to go on them. Noticed that on the centerline of the wheels there is a gasket of sorts about 1 3/4 inch wide. Was this because the original tires were tubed tires? And when I go to get the tubeless tires put on, do I need these same gaskets installed? If I do, would most tire places know what to do, or should I get some new rubber for them ahead of time?? Thanks -

that's to keep the inner tube from rubbing on the rivet heads
 
One forward, eight back ...

Well, so much for one step forward and only one step back. Yesterday I had my tires mounted to the original rims. I bled the brake lines successfully, bled the clutch line successfully (pic of my best helper below), installed the radiator and fan shroud, then cranked the motor up thinking I might drive around the yard. Fan shroud too small and the blade clanged off the sides non-stop. Took the shroud off, modified it and put it back in (uh....2x).... then cranked it back up. Somehow I punched holes in the radiator core and AF flew everywhere in my garage. I say holes, because there were about 5 of them. I think it's toast. So I'm on MUD looking for a good used radiator & fan shroud - which I damaged as well trying to make work, then removing, then installing again, then removing. Live and learn. For anyone that thought I was a mechanical genius after my work of art removing the thermo housing & re-installing, let this serve as a correction ... I am not even half decent yet. Ahahaha. Suggestions?????

Helper.webp


Tires.webp
 
Well, so much for one step forward and only one step back.

btdt. at last run, we lost a wheel cylinder, so got those all rebuilt and working again, went out today and the vacuum transfer isn't working, the needle valve was sticking on the carb and the fuel level sender stopped working. :frown:

you are not alone.
 
Thanks FJFJ / Ky Longhunter ... the dudes at my favorite tire place told me there was no way they could have found these for me. They were all asking me questions when they found out what I'm building - I can't wait to drive the thing! Big S/O to Longhunter for finding those tires. Sweeeeeet. Now I just need a radiator and fan shroud, and I should be able to run it.

Question for any of you: I ran the truck this weekend and tried to put it into gear (any gear) and got no movement at all. Is that a linkage issue, or is it possible the T/C is out of fluids ??
 
Question for any of you: I ran the truck this weekend and tried to put it into gear (any gear) and got no movement at all. Is that a linkage issue, or is it possible the T/C is out of fluids ??

tc out of fluids won't keep you from moving, it will just get hot bind and explode. ;)

i'd check the tcase linkage to see if it's neutral.
 

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