Muffler replacement cost (3 Viewers)

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Hello all. I have a 2000 100 series that I need a new muffler on. The rest of the exhaust system looks decent but the muffler has a considerable hole in it. I have taken it to two mechanics in the Albany area of NY. The first said that it was impossible to replace only the muffler and I would need to replace almost everything south of the cats. He quoted me 1k for a walker system and 2k for something a little nicer. I took it to another mechanic who was willing to remove just the muffler and quoted me $680 for install of a new walker aluminized steel muffler. I found posts from a few years ago quoting installs for quite a bit less than this but I am also aware that things have gotten much more expensive the past 3-4 years. Does these seem reasonable to you all or should I keep looking?
 
Muffler part cost can be found on Rock Auto. 4 bolts on the front (flanged pipe connection), two new exhaust gasket donuts. Back is a slip joint that can be a bear to separate (basically 3” behind the muffler) if rusted together (like on my first Walker replacement). Could be a <1 hour job or 3 if the tailpipe fights you. I just did my second replacement two months back.
 
With age and corrosion, time and material cost go up.

Cheapest: Muffler shop wield in. Pick the sound you like.

I've not install yet, but looks as close to OEM as I've seen. Has all the correct hangers, dampener mount, tail pipe keyed and such. Comes with gaskets,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09M8Z97DK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

OEM best with OEM gaskets, bolts, nut, dampener (can sometimes be reused) and rubber mounts if needed.
 
I bought the oem muffler and tail pipe when Decatur Toyota ran the 25% off sale. I also got the gas tank skid plate since mine was rusted out. I had a local guy put all of it in in 3.5 hours for $269. I know Wisconsin is probably cheaper than NY but I would keep looking. Also, they easily installed the new muffler without any other parts besides the gaskets.
 
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Wait for a 25% off Toyota parts sale and you can grab an OEM muffler, all exhaust gaskets and hardware (nuts & bolts and rear clamp assembly) for right around $500 even. Reuse dampener from the old one.

Then take the parts to a shop that only does muffler/exhaust, and pay for their labor. Or DIY it but IMO that juice isn't nearly worth the squeeze. My exhaust shop had me in and out in like 40 minutes.
 
At 24 years old, many of the flanges and hardware in the exhaust system might be toast. Bolting in the muffler may not be possible if the hardware is rust-welded together and the flange is mangled. However that can be patched by welding in new flanges and replacing the hardware (which I did on my Y-pipe). I'm betting that's why the replacement costs were quite high as it's fairly time consuming to cut off the old flanges and weld in the new ones, especially if the remaining system the shop is welding onto is thin, rusty metal. This could also cause the repair to be short-lived, particularly if they are splicing carbon steel into the system instead of stainless (and very few muffler shops keep stainless around or are even set up to properly weld stainless).

If you can post some pictures it would help. Unless you are in a very dry climate, my bet is that the system is actually fairly degraded and full replacement could indeed be warranted.
 
Mine broke right at the back side of the muffler about a year ago. I went with a BlackWidow Venom 250 muffler. It sounds nice and has pretty much zero drone. Southern California shop did the work and a new muffler for about $375. It's way lighter than the stock one, I gained a little over 2" of ground clearance and it's further from the body reducing rear passenger floor temps and little as well. Some day I may have the shop change it to 2.5" or 3" after the cats and 2.5" out the back.

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Thank you everyone for you input. I am trying to save some money at the moment so am going to buy the northeastern exhaust muffler and do it myself. If stuff starts crumbling I can replace as needed.
 
Thank you everyone for you input. I am trying to save some money at the moment so am going to buy the northeastern exhaust muffler and do it myself. If stuff starts crumbling I can replace as needed.
That Northeastern looks like the best modern times replacement. How is it holding up and are you happy with your purchase. Anybody feel free to jump in.

I have ordered all OEM bolts, nuts , gaskets and clamps. Just still researching the best aftermarket option as I have been spending tons of money lately repairing or upgrading my 06 470. Thanks guys
 
That Northeastern looks like the best modern times replacement. How is it holding up and are you happy with your purchase. Anybody feel free to jump in.

I have ordered all OEM bolts, nuts , gaskets and clamps. Just still researching the best aftermarket option as I have been spending tons of money lately repairing or upgrading my 06 470. Thanks guys
I have used the Northeastern. It fit perfectly and is silent.
 
That Northeastern looks like the best modern times replacement. How is it holding up and are you happy with your purchase. Anybody feel free to jump in.

I have ordered all OEM bolts, nuts , gaskets and clamps. Just still researching the best aftermarket option as I have been spending tons of money lately repairing or upgrading my 06 470. Thanks guys
I installed a Northeastern muffler yesterday. The fitment is very good, and it sounds stock.

I had to remove the hitch and drop the spare tire in order to wiggle out the tailpipe and resonator...
All in order to cut out the old rusted oem muffler flange from the inside of the tailpipe.
PB Blaster, plumbers torch, sawzall, vise grips, and a hammer, were all integral to the project.

Also, I found that the spring loaded bolts that come with the Northeastern muffler don't mate the front exhaust flanges tight enough, so I went to the auto parts store at the ninth hour and got some M10 x 1.25 bolts and nuts and that snugged it up nicely.
 
I installed a Northeastern muffler yesterday. The fitment is very good, and it sounds stock.

I had to remove the hitch and drop the spare tire in order to wiggle out the tailpipe and resonator...
All in order to cut out the old rusted oem muffler flange from the inside of the tailpipe.
PB Blaster, plumbers torch, sawzall, vise grips, and a hammer, were all integral to the project.

Also, I found that the spring loaded bolts that come with the Northeastern muffler don't mate the front exhaust flanges tight enough, so I went to the auto parts store at the ninth hour and got some M10 x 1.25 bolts and nuts and that snugged it up nicely.
Thank you for your insight. I'm glad I ordered all other OEM parts. My muffler still has a little life left but the aft muffler clamp/bushing is shot. might as well go all in as you know.
 

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