Motor rebuild in progress (1 Viewer)

[Newbie2the80s]

The head bolts are TTY which is why the FSM has a measurement guide. I don't think the bearing cap bolts are TTY and if that is true then reusing them is okay.
I have never used the ARP studs but i guess a good place to start would be ARP | The Official Web Site - https://arp-bolts.com/ No doubt there are a few places online that supply these - maybe mudders like Wits' End, Solutions for Problems You Didn't Know You Had - https://absolute-wits-end.com/ or Cruiser Outfitters - http://cruiseroutfitters.com/ will stock these.

Perfect man thankyou.

 

[Newbie2the80s]

There are 2 ways to order parts:
1) Work out what you need yourself and order from Partouq or McGeorge
Or
2) engage a cruiser ninja who will tell you what you really need and where to purchase them for the least amount of coin.

The problem with ordering parts from toyota is that you get what you asked for....so depending on what you order you won't necessarily get the ancillary parts that you need to fit it. The ninjas know what you need and trust me, you will save their fee in the multiple shipping costs that you will incur as you learn on the job.

 

[Newbie2the80s]

Makes sense. You say ninjas. What do I type in to find them to order from? Toyota ninjas? Or something along those lines?

 

[Newbie2the80s]

Makes sense. You say ninjas. What do I type in to find them to order from? Toyota ninjas? Or something along those lines?

And thankyou very much for the answers and help you're giving me! Sorry if I'm asking to many questions. I wasn't expecting this many answers so soon. Means to me I've found a toyoya family again years after I sold my '89 pickup/crawler I built over years and left that wheelin family

 

[manofthewoods]

Where did you order your stuff from? Bolts, rings and bearings kit.

I shop between:
OEMpartssource
Partsouq
Megazip

I verify fitment more after OEMpartsource let me order ball joints because the website said they would fit. Problem is the 80 doesn't have ball joints. Luckily I caught that quick enough to fix the order.

Megazip has the best diagrams. Usually, pretty fast shipping from Japan or the UAE.
Plus they have a 10% code

 

[Newbie2the80s]

I shop between:
OEMpartssource
Partsouq
Megazip

I verify fitment more after OEMpartsource let me order ball joints because the website said they would fit. Problem is the 80 doesn't have ball joints. Luckily I caught that quick enough to fix the order.

Megazip has the best diagrams. Usually, pretty fast shipping from Japan or the UAE.
Plus they have a 10% code

Rt on thanks.

 

[FMC80]

Makes sense. You say ninjas. What do I type in to find them to order from? Toyota ninjas? Or something along those lines?

Irish reiver listed a few websites a few posts back. Cruiser outfitters is where I’d start

 

[Newbie2the80s]

The book!

 

[flintknapper]

The book!

View attachment 2759994

View attachment 2759995

Good to have the "Book(s)".....but IMO 'experience' and the information gained and shared by others here, has been more valuable to me.

I have the 'books' and use them....don't get me wrong, but often times the FSM takes the 'long way around' or flat out recommends unnecessary procedures. It's great for 'specs' (though there are some known errors), schematics and some troubleshooting info.

 

[Newbie2the80s]

Good to have the "Book(s)".....but IMO 'experience' and the information gained and shared by others here, has been more valuable to me.

I have the 'books' and use them....don't get me wrong, but often times the FSM takes the 'long way around' or flat out recommends unnecessary procedures. It's great for 'specs' (though there are some known errors), schematics and some troubleshooting info.

View attachment 2760022

Ya I agree on all that. That's why I'm happy to have found this place, like heaven, on my phone for more than just one answer.
I couldn't figure out how to put the picture of that book in a PM so just put it on this. I don't want to give answers to people and maybe miss important things/steps in my answers. The more answers we get and compare, the better

 

[Newbie2the80s]

 

[Newbie2the80s]

Picked up the block yesterday and glad it was sunny si I didn't need to tarp it up it's back home and ready for me to get started on putting back together. I've ordered all the stuff I need to reassemble except the freeze plugs or expansion plugs. I cant find them at any parts store. I want the brass plugs. Do any of you guys know where I can find them?

 

[Newbie2the80s]

Also the machinist will be starting on the head on Thursday when I bring him the intake and Exhaust seals and asked me to bring him the cams and caps and the buckets/shims. Still doesn't think it matters after he grinds the valves, where the buckets go. He said he'll do whatever needs to be done so I can just pick it up and bolt on when he's done. Do I just go by what he says or should I still worry? Does he need the cams, caps, and buckets/shims to complete what needs to be done or can he just do the valves and springs and seals without them?

 

[flintknapper]

Also the machinist will be starting on the head on Thursday when I bring him the intake and Exhaust seals and asked me to bring him the cams and caps and the buckets/shims. Still doesn't think it matters after he grinds the valves, where the buckets go. He said he'll do whatever needs to be done so I can just pick it up and bolt on when he's done. Do I just go by what he says or should I still worry? Does he need the cams, caps, and buckets/shims to complete what needs to be done or can he just do the valves and springs and seals without them?

It's best to keep the buckets in their respective bores along with the shim for each since there are always slight tolerance differences, BUT technically he is correct. IF you weren't having the valves (and possibly the valve seats) ground/cut then it would be imperative everything go back in its original spot.

But in your case the machinist will (as needed) grind the valves (and possibly re-cut the valve seats). When this is done...the valve now sits a bit deeper in the head. So the valve 'stem' protrudes farther through the head as well. There are two ways to address this. You can change the thickness of the 'shim' in each bucket, or you can 'tip' (grind a small amount off the tip) the valve stem.

IF you choose shims only...then you have to mix and match (possibly buy some new ones) the shims to get the factory spec for valve lash. By 'tipping' the valve stem you can simply grind each valve (using a particular shim) to arrive at the valve lash. BUT you can only grind so much off the tip of a valve stem before you remove the 'hardened' part of it and ruin it. It is also possible to grind the shims themselves, but an arduous procedure.

So yes, the machinist will need everything you have in order to do the job correctly. He also needs to understand the correct order to remove and install the caps for the cams to avoid binding anything.

 

[Newbie2the80s]

It's best to keep the buckets in their respective bores along with the shim for each since there are always slight tolerance differences, BUT technically he is correct. IF you weren't having the valves (and possibly the valve seats) ground/cut then it would be imperative everything go back in its original spot.

But in your case the machinist will (as needed) grind the valves (and possibly re-cut the valve seats). When this is done...the valve now sits a bit deeper in the head. So the valve 'stem' protrudes farther through the head as well. There are two ways to address this. You can change the thickness of the 'shim' in each bucket, or you can 'tip' (grind a small amount off the tip) the valve stem.

IF you choose shims only...then you have to mix and match (possibly buy some new ones) the shims to get the factory spec for valve lash. By 'tipping' the valve stem you can simply grind each valve (using a particular shim) to arrive at the valve lash. BUT you can only grind so much off the tip of a valve stem before you remove the 'hardened' part of it and ruin it. It is also possible to grind the shims themselves, but an arduous procedure.

So yes, the machinist will need everything you have in order to do the job correctly. He also needs to understand the correct order to remove and install the caps for the cams to avoid binding anything.

Thankyou

 

[Newbie2the80s]

Ok as you guys said "the book" doesn't explain everything and thats why I'm asking. I found an oil pump bushing. The book says get a new block if this part goes bad. Got lucky and found it from Yota1 performance. Question is what way do I press it in? The bushing only has one hole in it but the spot where it goes has 2. One on top and one on bottom. The pictures I have from taking it apart still have the sprockets on and I can't see it. Didn't know the machine shop would take it out and he doesn't remember what way it was.

 

[Newbie2the80s]

 

[Newbie2the80s]

But first this..

Labeled from the machine shop and told all measurements were good and just bolt on and proceed. So I did but knew I needed to check the clearance under each cam lobe.

 

[Newbie2the80s]

Glad I did check the clearance because all of them were off. He told me on a piece of paper the price of his work and the intake clearance was .008 and exhaust clearance was .012. If you can read my puzzle notes, you'll see how far off his "measurements" were. Its taking me a week to find all but one bucket were it needs to go.

 

[BILT4ME]

Ok as you guys said "the book" doesn't explain everything and thats why I'm asking. I found an oil pump bushing. The book says get a new block if this part goes bad. Got lucky and found it from Yota1 performance. Question is what way do I press it in? The bushing only has one hole in it but the spot where it goes has 2. One on top and one on bottom. The pictures I have from taking it apart still have the sprockets on and I can't see it. Didn't know the machine shop would take it out and he doesn't remember what way it was. View attachment 2789950View attachment 2789951View attachment 2789952

You got the answer that the hole on the he bushing goes to the top, right?

I thought this was answered a while back.