Most common problems GX460 for current owners (2 Viewers)

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Why do they INSIST on loading cars down with auto this, push button that, remote nonsense. Not to mention the screens and 17 body control modules. A key, a working neck, and some analog knobs for HVAC and radio is super reliable.
Personally, I can care less about the reliability with screens, they've been pretty stead fast with no issues.
What I miss with knobs, buttons and levers is the tactile feel of rotating, flipping up/down, etc.
When one is driving, screens ABSOLUTELY require your "divided" attention to look at where your hands and fingers are touching on a screen.
With physical controls, just move your hand over the general area of the knob you need to adjust and you can feel what you want to adjust, all without having to EVER take your eyes off the road.
I don't even mind all the feedback (volume level, temperature, and so on) being on a screen, but I like being able to physically adjust it.
 
I'm fine with the 460... it is relatively simple from an electronic standpoint compared to other options on the market.

I'm frankly not interested in going back to carbs and roll up windows. 😀
 
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Personally, I can care less about the reliability with screens, they've been pretty stead fast with no issues.
What I miss with knobs, buttons and levers is the tactile feel of rotating, flipping up/down, etc.
When one is driving, screens ABSOLUTELY require your "divided" attention to look at where your hands and fingers are touching on a screen.
With physical controls, just move your hand over the general area of the knob you need to adjust and you can feel what you want to adjust, all without having to EVER take your eyes off the road.
I don't even mind all the feedback (volume level, temperature, and so on) being on a screen, but I like being able to physically adjust it.
This is 100% the reason why I got the 8.4” screen in my new RAM 2500 Laramie. The 12” doesn’t have knobs for s***. I need my knobs! And yes there is a joke in there somewhere. LOL
 
I bought my GX remotely. You need to find a dealer that specializes in online and remote transactions.


When I reached out to the dealership listing my GX, they sent me a file of about 200 photos, plus Carfax, plus service history, plus documentation of all mods done, including invoice.


They gave me a list of local mechanics for a PPI (I asked they go to the local Lexus dealership), no complaints from the dealership, and they took it in the next day.

They arranged shipping and even sent a local person out to detail the GX two days after it arrived.

So far, no complaints. I've done multiple online vehicle transactions, and it boils down to doing business with the right company. Just have to find one where their specialty is online transactions.

Respectfully I disagree and stand beside my point.

I’ve bought and sold 50 vehicles in my 22-ish years of owning vehicles and I’ve had many experiences with the situation and mechanics.

I’ve had BMW certified mechanics misdiagnose driveline vibrations as a bad transfer case when it was a $30 guido flex disk. Saved me $6,500~

Lexus certified technicians misdiagnose starting issues as “non-existent” when they were a plugged EGR causing 10 second delays on starting. Cost me $4,800~ figuring out on my own, but recall it wasn’t an issue to them.

A highly rated independent shop say my transmission cooler leak (out of a hose at the bottom) was fixed by a faulty radiator cap. $250~ to figure out later it was a $0.10 o-ring in the hose, $100 shop fix another time.

A highly specialized and rated BMW dealership claim a transmission was toast when it was flex plate bolts that loosened up (a warranty issue versus an abuse issue, in their eyes, which they eventually honored). Saved me $8,000~ under warranty.

A Jeep dealership say an engine bay noise was bottom end rod knock when it was plastic hitting the radiator fan. Saved me $5,000 on buying it.

A shop say a cars engine was toast when a guy brought it in pissing oil, so I bought it for $300 and replaced the engine oil filter (with a hole in it) in it for $4 and sold the car for $4,600

A half dozen professional shops misdiagnose many other minor things. $$$$

If you trust a shop to tell you everything about a car with confidence, then you’ve either had way better experiences with shops than I have or you’re just none the wiser.

IMO, drive every vehicle you want to buy before you buy it, or have a solid buy back guarantee.

Sure, have a shop look at it, but taking them for their word is a fools game, no matter the shop.

Yes, driving it yourself isn’t always going to solve or highlight an underlying issue, but it sure is one extra layer of avoidance to something, and takes (often) little effort. I’ve definitely saved tens of thousands of dollars with my way, and spent tens of thousands of dollars learning my way. Overall, my way, had I practiced it when I was 16 on, would’ve bought me an entire new $40,000~ car with the savings.

Trusting a shop, even a highly rated one, to tell you what to spend you money on, is effectively saying “I’m sure their interest is with my finances in mind” and not their own. It’s naive, in my experience and from what I see, many others.
 
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Respectfully I disagree and stand beside my point.

I’ve bought and sold 50 vehicles in my 22-ish years of owning vehicles and I’ve had many experiences with the situation and mechanics.

I’ve had BMW certified mechanics misdiagnose driveline vibrations as a bad transfer case when it was a $30 guido flex disk. Saved me $6,500~

Lexus certified technicians misdiagnose starting issues as “non-existent” when they were a plugged EGR causing 10 second delays on starting. Cost me $4,800~ figuring out on my own, but recall it wasn’t an issue to them.

A highly rated independent shop say my transmission cooler leak (out of a hose at the bottom) was fixed by a faulty radiator cap. $250~ to figure out later it was a $0.10 o-ring in the hose, $100 shop fix another time.

A highly specialized and rated BMW dealership claim a transmission was toast when it was flex plate bolts that loosened up (a warranty issue versus an abuse issue, in their eyes, which they eventually honored). Saved me $8,000~ under warranty.

A Jeep dealership say an engine bay noise was bottom end rod knock when it was plastic hitting the radiator fan. Saved me $5,000 on buying it.

A shop say a cars engine was toast when a guy brought it in pissing oil, so I bought it for $300 and replaced the engine oil filter (with a hole in it) in it for $4 and sold the car for $4,600

A half dozen professional shops misdiagnose many other minor things. $$$$

If you trust a shop to tell you everything about a car with confidence, then you’ve either had way better experiences with shops than I have or you’re just none the wiser.

IMO, drive every vehicle you want to buy before you buy it, or have a solid buy back guarantee.

Sure, have a shop look at it, but taking them for their word is a fools game, no matter the shop.

Yes, driving it yourself isn’t always going to solve or highlight an underlying issue, but it sure is one extra layer of avoidance to something, and takes (often) little effort. I’ve definitely saved tens of thousands of dollars with my way, and spent tens of thousands of dollars learning my way. Overall, my way, had I practiced it when I was 16 on, would’ve bought me an entire new $40,000~ car with the savings.

Trusting a shop, even a highly rated one, to tell you what to spend you money on, is effectively saying “I’m sure their interest is with my finances in mind” and not their own. It’s naive, in my experience and from what I see, many others.

The lesson to be learned here, stop buying BMW's lol.
 
Respectfully I disagree and stand beside my point.

I’ve bought and sold 50 vehicles in my 22-ish years of owning vehicles and I’ve had many experiences with the situation and mechanics.

I’ve had BMW certified mechanics misdiagnose driveline vibrations as a bad transfer case when it was a $30 guido flex disk. Saved me $6,500~

Lexus certified technicians misdiagnose starting issues as “non-existent” when they were a plugged EGR causing 10 second delays on starting. Cost me $4,800~ figuring out on my own, but recall it wasn’t an issue to them.

A highly rated independent shop say my transmission cooler leak (out of a hose at the bottom) was fixed by a faulty radiator cap. $250~ to figure out later it was a $0.10 o-ring in the hose, $100 shop fix another time.

A highly specialized and rated BMW dealership claim a transmission was toast when it was flex plate bolts that loosened up (a warranty issue versus an abuse issue, in their eyes, which they eventually honored). Saved me $8,000~ under warranty.

A Jeep dealership say an engine bay noise was bottom end rod knock when it was plastic hitting the radiator fan. Saved me $5,000 on buying it.

A shop say a cars engine was toast when a guy brought it in pissing oil, so I bought it for $300 and replaced the engine oil filter (with a hole in it) in it for $4 and sold the car for $4,600

A half dozen professional shops misdiagnose many other minor things. $$$$

If you trust a shop to tell you everything about a car with confidence, then you’ve either had way better experiences with shops than I have or you’re just none the wiser.

IMO, drive every vehicle you want to buy before you buy it, or have a solid buy back guarantee.

Sure, have a shop look at it, but taking them for their word is a fools game, no matter the shop.

Yes, driving it yourself isn’t always going to solve or highlight an underlying issue, but it sure is one extra layer of avoidance to something, and takes (often) little effort. I’ve definitely saved tens of thousands of dollars with my way, and spent tens of thousands of dollars learning my way. Overall, my way, had I practiced it when I was 16 on, would’ve bought me an entire new $40,000~ car with the savings.

Trusting a shop, even a highly rated one, to tell you what to spend you money on, is effectively saying “I’m sure their interest is with my finances in mind” and not their own. It’s naive, in my experience and from what I see, many others.
I agree with having a (good) shop look over anything (used) you plan on purchasing.
I have a great mechanic and he's inspected everything used I've ever purchased in the past 30+ years.
Albeit, the best he can do is compression check, fluids, brakes, body panels and frame, lights, and so on.
In the end, even he can only do so much and say that everything he's inspected is within spec and okay.
But I know he can't tell me if a trans or something is ever going to happen to it, whether it's 6 weeks or 6 years down the road.
You just gotta pick what you want and pray for the best.
 
The lesson to be learned here, stop buying BMW's lol.
Amen on that. Have learned the hard way on BMWs, and have avoided a $4,000+ Dealership repair by doing just a bit of self diagnosing and online forum searching. Part ordering, versus time spent investigating, is a dangerous mentality I’ve run into at dealerships of various makes.
 
I'm fine with the 460... it is relatively simple from an electronic standpoint compared to other options on the market.

I'm frankly not interested in going back to carbs and roll up windows. 😀
I think it’s hilarious looking at the gripes we may have about a 100k+ GX, then considering how that compares with what you might see over at a Land Rover forum. Toyota products might have their occasional pain points, but they have always been far and away the clear winner for me. And I have been happiest with my GX, among the several Toyotas I have had.
 
The lesson to be learned here, stop buying BMW's lol.

Stopped buying BMWs newer than the early 2000s for sure, 2000s and older are wildly fun drivers cars and very friendly to DIY (though admittedly still very expensive in the parts world, much in line with Toyota/Lexus genuine parts).

That said, I have a desire to own another early ‘70s BMW 2002. Have had three (a ‘67 1602, ‘73 and ‘75 2002) and love those cars.

Their new stuff is fun, but junk to own past 20-40K miles.
 
Stopped buying BMWs newer than the early 2000s for sure, 2000s and older are wildly fun drivers cars and very friendly to DIY (though admittedly still very expensive in the parts world, much in line with Toyota/Lexus genuine parts).

That said, I have a desire to own another early ‘70s BMW 2002. Have had three (a ‘67 1602, ‘73 and ‘75 2002) and love those cars.

Their new stuff is fun, but junk to own past 20-40K miles.
Ha-ha! That's what my wife and I did our honeymoon in, a '74 2002! Loved that car (green on tan) except the reliability and the shifting was very sloppy.
 
Im shopping for a GX, today I went and looked at a 15 with 105k on it. First thing I noticed was no coolant in the overfill tank. Then I crawled underneath and saw a little oil on the engine which I think is the camshaft cover. The guy refused to let me get a PPI on it meanwhile he lives literally 1000 ft from the Toyota dealership.
 
Im shopping for a GX, today I went and looked at a 15 with 105k on it. First thing I noticed was no coolant in the overfill tank. Then I crawled underneath and saw a little oil on the engine which I think is the camshaft cover. The guy refused to let me get a PPI on it meanwhile he lives literally 1000 ft from the Toyota dealership.
Run far away!
 
RUN!! (or get it for a 4 figure price...)
 
+1… on running away

Assume private seller? Or indy dealer?

IMO: They are aware of issues, cost to repair, want to pass problems along to someone else for maximum profit
Private seller. When I brought up the issues and my concerns I read on the forums he pushed it off saying the forums overblow everything. The truck otherwise was spotless with none to very little rust underneath which is rare for New York. He had the 2020 grill on it with updated headlights and taillights, nice set of wheels and almost new tires.

Anyway on to the next one.
 
Seeing as how they have updated grill, headlights, and taillights, etc… IMO… they follow forums or FB, and have seen the threads of concern… they are trying to offload it onto someone else

You are doing your due diligence though

- Coolant recovery tank level
- Pink stains on front area near water pump or rear bell housing of vehicle
- Oil leaks viewable through fender wells or near the upper left area of AC compressor (timing cover)
- One can always try the borescope camera by intake tube to get at least a partial view for coolant valley leak
- Mentioned in other threads… OBD Link/Fusion can see last time codes were reset in vehicle… time, mileage and restarts

etc
 
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Wonder if it had any front end damage since the front end has been upgraded?
Did you do a Carfax on it or any research on the VIN number?
 
@r2m carfax was clean and I didn't see anything that stood out that it was in an accident. Little scratches that were touched up with paint etc. I think he just liked to mod his truck and did it tastefully.
 
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I’ve mentioned this other threads and forums over the years but on any vehicle see when the codes were last reset. More than likely can get this with other programs but easily done with OBD Link/Fusion


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Wonder if it had any front end damage since the front end has been upgraded?
Did you do a Carfax on it or any research on the VIN number?
Bingo! My thoughts exactly.
 

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