Howdy all, new GX460 owner questions (2 Viewers)

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DFW - TX
Hello from Texas, new GX460 owner here (bought a 2016 Base model in December) and I figured I'd ask the forum for some advice. First off, this is my first Lexus and I absolutely love it so far. It has 118K miles on it, but the records show that all of the maintenance has been done for the mileage, and the car was serviced both at Park Place Lexus and Sewell Lexus here in Dallas, so I feel pretty comfortable with it's condition. My question to you all, if I have a budget of around $2500 to $3500 in upgrades, what should I look at first? For reference, I am not planning any serious off-road action, but I may occasionally take it off the beaten path to hit up some fishing holes in New Mexico or around Texas—mostly weekend warrior-type stuff, but nothing too crazy. I really want to make it more capable should I ever need it and reduce the "Soccer Mom/Realtor" look of it. I was thinking of upgrading the wheels and tires, but I think (based on my budget) that I will need to keep the suspension stock, right? I have looked through this forum, as well as others online, and it seems like the general consensus is that 32-inch wheels on 17-inch rims are about the biggest I can go without modifying the suspension, correct? I like the utilitarian look of Nomad wheels, but they seem a bit pricy. Does anyone have recommendations on wheels that have a similar look to the Nomad Convoy wheel, but that don't cost $275 a wheel? Sorry for all the questions. I appreciate any feedback.
 
Hello from Texas, new GX460 owner here (bought a 2016 Base model in December) and I figured I'd ask the forum for some advice. First off, this is my first Lexus and I absolutely love it so far. It has 118K miles on it, but the records show that all of the maintenance has been done for the mileage, and the car was serviced both at Park Place Lexus and Sewell Lexus here in Dallas, so I feel pretty comfortable with it's condition. My question to you all, if I have a budget of around $2500 to $3500 in upgrades, what should I look at first? For reference, I am not planning any serious off-road action, but I may occasionally take it off the beaten path to hit up some fishing holes in New Mexico or around Texas—mostly weekend warrior-type stuff, but nothing too crazy. I really want to make it more capable should I ever need it and reduce the "Soccer Mom/Realtor" look of it. I was thinking of upgrading the wheels and tires, but I think (based on my budget) that I will need to keep the suspension stock, right? I have looked through this forum, as well as others online, and it seems like the general consensus is that 32-inch wheels on 17-inch rims are about the biggest I can go without modifying the suspension, correct? I like the utilitarian look of Nomad wheels, but they seem a bit pricy. Does anyone have recommendations on wheels that have a similar look to the Nomad Convoy wheel, but that don't cost $275 a wheel? Sorry for all the questions. I appreciate any feedback.
First off, congrats on your new Toy, er... Lexus! :cheers:
Yes, these are amazing rigs and sounds like just what you need for the type of adventures you're looking to have.
Having built several overlanders and off road rigs, the first thing is know what your end game is, e.g. how do you eventually want your rig to perform and look.
But it sounds like you already have a good idea of what where you're going with this. So now to the good stuff, what to get.
I tell folks to build in stages.
  1. Wheels and tires. Go with 17" wheels. You'll get more cushion and smoother ride with the higher side wall and in the long run, 17" tires will be considerably cheaper (for the same brand and diameter) than tires for 18" wheels. Price tires out and you'll see.
  2. From what your adventures will sound like, go with the largest tire that will fit under, where your spare tire is. That should be around a 32" tire. You'll get folks on here that'll chime in with what sizes those are.
  3. Suspension. An after market suspension will give a better ride and longer wheel travel which equals to more articulation and keeping all for your tires planted while going over undulating surfaces. You don't have to go big, maybe an inch or two, just give a little more ground clearance and wheel travel.
  4. Trim the front and rear bumpers and cut the running boards! It's one of the first things that separate your from the going to violin lessons and mall cruising Moms. There's posts on here as to how to trim.
  5. Armor... Start with some sliders for under carriage protection. No matter how mild a trail may seam, there is always the chance of dropping into a deep rut, bouncing off a tree stump or rock. It should be one of the first things to get. For what you're doing, go with aluminum. It'll be lighter and should be cheaper and offer all the protection you should need, sans rock crawling.
  6. Then go for rock sliders to replace the running boards. I prefer wide ones for: 1) standing on, 2) keeping idiots from swinging their doors into my rig in parking lots 3) a little more space between my door and a tree/rock/? if I have to pivot on something.
  7. And along the way, get some recovery gear, e.g.: straps, shovel, traction mats, soft shackles, etc. Look at reviews and videos and DON'T BUY CHEAP JUNK!
 
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Specific to your question on suspension and wheels, and on a budget:

118k and it's probably getting a little long in the tooth. If needed you could look for take off OEM suspension with low mileage to replace it.

For a decent budget lift I use - and am pleased with - Cornfed Suspension's spacer lift (made for a 5th gen 4Runner). $150 gets you 1.5" front and 1" rear which is a nice setting especially with slightly upsized tires (I have 32"). While a lot of guys poo poo spacers, I think this style - which require coilover disassembly and basically just preload the coil - are fine for the type of use you are describing because they don't change the total length of the strut / coil assembly. I would try and keep the lift around 1.5" - 2" so as to not cause any issues with KDSS and to ensure good alignment specs.

The 17" Trail Edition factory wheels off the early 5th gen 4Rs and the FJs look very much like the Nomad wheels. You could probably source a set of those on FB or CL or even on here if you are patient. Last set of 4 I saw went for $500 which seems reasonable.
 
Specific to your question on suspension and wheels, and on a budget:

118k and it's probably getting a little long in the tooth. If needed you could look for take off OEM suspension with low mileage to replace it.

For a decent budget lift I use - and am pleased with - Cornfed Suspension's spacer lift (made for a 5th gen 4Runner). $150 gets you 1.5" front and 1" rear which is a nice setting especially with slightly upsized tires (I have 32"). While a lot of guys poo poo spacers, I think this style - which require coilover disassembly and basically just preload the coil - are fine for the type of use you are describing because they don't change the total length of the strut / coil assembly. I would try and keep the lift around 1.5" - 2" so as to not cause any issues with KDSS and to ensure good alignment specs.

The 17" Trail Edition factory wheels off the early 5th gen 4Rs and the FJs look very much like the Nomad wheels. You could probably source a set of those on FB or CL or even on here if you are patient. Last set of 4 I saw went for $500 which seems reasonable.
With all due respect, I'm one of the "poo-poo's" of spacers and body lifts.
Yeah, you'll get more ground/tire clearance, but will not give any additional droop or compression which helps on trails or especially when needing articulation on rocks n' ruts.
So many folks describe their trail needs for only fire roads, and yet so many will see an interesting little fork in the trail and want (need?) to follow it, which may take one into a little rougher terrain than anticipated or prepared for.
I'm one who is always looking for an adventure in an unknown fork in the road, but I have the suspension (and armor) to satisfy my itch.
 
With all due respect, I'm one of the "poo-poo's" of spacers and body lifts.
Yeah, you'll get more ground/tire clearance, but will not give any additional droop or compression which helps on trails or especially when needing articulation on rocks n' ruts.
Referring to a preload spacer only, not a top hat style:

You also won't get less droop. Technically I guess you would get a little less compression because the coil gets slightly compressed by the spacer, but I think that's negligible. This sort of preload is similar to the way a Bilstein 5100 lifts, and even the way that a lot of high end suspensions lift via adjustable collars. In my experience - and I've run spacers before, and I've run several full suspension setups - the spacers are fine for most normal applications in which you would send a GX out into the world. Is a full suspension better? Sure. Is $150 less that $2500? Yes, yes it is. So you are essentially getting the same suspension performance as stock, but 1.5" taller.

The section on preload spacers here is pretty educational, IMO. Approx 13:40. Whole video and also part I of the series are worth watching:

 
I mean if you want the look of the steel wheel, then you could always go a steel wheel. They're like $105 on eBay (17 Inch 6 Lug Steel Wheel For Toyota Fj Cruiser WE40596T | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/364058247855?chn=ps&norover=1&mkscid=101&itemid=364058247855&targetid=2512152189032&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9030872&poi=&campaignid=21214286338&mkgroupid=161030074701&rlsatarget=pla-2512152189032&abcId=9407521&merchantid=6490944&gad_source=1). I like stealing @Hiluxforever's pictures because he runs these. I believe those are 285/70/17s (roughly 33s) on stock suspension, and I've run the same setup with some trimming and a BMC. Do the trimming now to fit the tire you want and it'll save you that work for later when you change your suspension. The second picture is mine with 33s on stock suspension as well.

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Mine were even cheaper than that. They also only weigh 30 lbs. So they are more weight but not a crazy amount.

I did not need a BMC for the 285 70r17 or 275 70R18s. Keeping everything tight to the scrub radius really helps.

Running 1.75 up front lift eith my 5100s and 1.5" spacers in the rear. I wheel alot even if it's milder stuff.

I did spacers because I do plan on getting steel bumpers. I will.get new springs then.
 
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Great info guys, keep it coming. MeefZaa, I will give those spacers a look. I like the price of those. One question I have is around Bilstein 5100s. I've seen a set online for $500, but I'm a complete noob on any kind of suspension modifications (and mechanical work to boot) and will most likely have to go to a shop to get any of this done, so I'm assuming I should at least double that amount for the labor of installing these? I also am not sure if that $500 is for all that I would need (given the low cost, I'm sure it probably isn't), so someone educate me on what a modest leveling/lift would cost on a GX from a local shop. R2M I agree that most of my off-road adventures will probably be pretty tame (fire roads and whatnot), but I do like the idea that on the off chance I take a turn down a more technical route, I won't be up a creek, so to speak. That old adage that it's better to have it and not need it applies here, right? Also, I'm in the DFW area, and I have seen Tandem Offroad recommended but I'm wondering if there are any reputable shops in the northern suburbs (Frisco, Allen, Flower Mound) that could throw on a lift for me. If that questions is better suited to a "Texas" centric board, I'll place it there. Again, thanks for all the info.
 
I paid around 530 for my 5100s. Bilstein has been making Monotubes for decades so they represent the best value 2" monotube.

I would not got over 1.75 on the 5100s. Some douche put the 4runner at 2.5 and it rode very poorly.

The 5100s will really stabilize the body motion on rougher roads or offroad.

While one can definitely go nicer than 5100s with the initial cost and cost of maintenance of some of the other options is sobering.

I see some folks rebuilding a single damper for the cost of a set of 5100s.
 
Mine were even cheaper than that. They also only weigh 30 lbs. So they are more weight but not a crazy amount.

I did not need a BMC for the 285 70r17 or 275 70R18s. Keeping everything tight to the scrub radius really helps.

Running 1.75 up front lift eith my 5100s and 1.5" spacers in the rear. I wheel alot even if it's milder stuff.

I did spacers because I do plan on getting steel bumpers. I will.get new springs then.
How wide are those steelies? Can you get them at 7" or 7.5"
 
How wide are those steelies? Can you get them at 7" or 7.5"
They are 7.5" thankfully. It just clears the UCA
 
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