Most common problems GX460 for current owners (1 Viewer)

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This is helpful to me as well, thank you OP. I'm looking at one locally send real wish there was a post or video (like with other models) that goes step by step over what to look for. I plan on my next vehicle lasting a long time so I want to make sure these repairs have been done.
 
My 10 year old GX had 3 owners, which didn't bother me since each of them took it exclusively to the dealership for maintenance and repair, which meant even the third owner was still spending good money to keep it up.

The history, more than owner count, meant more to me. That said, there is a number of owners in a certain time frame that does still raise concerns. In my case, an average 3-4 year ownership isn't that uncommon and not immediately a sign of a dud. I've also bought 1 owner vehicles that are 8+ years old and they've been absolute crap, because the owner was cheap and wanted the best bang-for-buck use of the vehicle, so just kept it on the road with minimal maintenance/repair. GX's aren't hard to keep on the road for 100K miles though, so 1 owner ones aren't always better kept by default. So long as the multiple owners do required maintenance, get timely and quality repairs and kept up the general condition of the rig, I'd be happy to look at buying it.

Also, mine was in a fender bender. Lots of people get bothered by any mention of a wreck, and while there is cause for concern to make sure it wasn't a nastier moderate-bad wreck or in a delicate area, my experience has been MOST 5+ year old vehicles have been in some sort of bump. Lots of times they're not reported or are handled in a way that they don't show up on any report. In my case, it wasn't reported on CarFax, but the dealership history noted it being repaired through their body shop. Via those notes, it was a small bump on the left rear, they replaced bumper cover and did some work and repaint to the left rear quarter. They didn't replace the tail gate nor tail light, so I knew it was a minor thing and was fine with it. I'm always more concerned with front/side damage or serious rear damage. A general fender bender is usually not a concern, just something to note and make sure repairs were done well enough.
 
Other than the soccer mom vibes (in stock form) and the meh fuel economy I don't think that there's much to complain about really.
 
Lots of people get bothered by any mention of a wreck, and while there is cause for concern to make sure it wasn't a nastier moderate-bad wreck or in a delicate area, my experience has been MOST 5+ year old vehicles have been in some sort of bump. Lots of times they're not reported or are handled in a way that they don't show up on any report. In my case, it wasn't reported on CarFax, but the dealership history noted it being repaired through their body shop. Via those notes, it was a small bump on the left rear, they replaced bumper cover and did some work and repaint to the left rear quarter. They didn't replace the tail gate nor tail light, so I knew it was a minor thing and was fine with it. I'm always more concerned with front/side damage or serious rear damage. A general fender bender is usually not a concern, just something to note and make sure repairs were done well enough.

Except that insurance companies will basically double your premium if a vehicle has been in even minor collisions.
 
Except that insurance companies will basically double your premium if a vehicle has been in even minor collisions.

I don’t find this to be true. My GX is the same basic rate all my modern vehicles have been. So was the wife’s RAV4 after she got light rear ended a few years ago.

If you’re the at fault party and claim it, of course your rates will go up, but a vehicle having a wreck history (and clean title) has nothing to do with the rates...in the states I’ve lived in at least.
 
I don’t find this to be true. My GX is the same basic rate all my modern vehicles have been. So was the wife’s RAV4 after she got light rear ended a few years ago.

If you’re the at fault party and claim it, of course your rates will go up, but a vehicle having a wreck history (and clean title) has nothing to do with the rates...in the states I’ve lived in at least.

so before i bought my 80 series, i did a replacement quote with my insurance. It was X amount for 6 months. when i finally chose an 80 series and entered the VIN, it was double. I experimented and did the same thing with quotes from every major carrier on their websites, and each time, it was approximately double simply by entering the VIN, with every single other detail the exact same. I called 2 of the companies to ask why, and both said it was due to crash history.

Maybe that's only true for old vehicles, but for me it's no longer worth the hassle. I simply won't buy a vehicle that has had crash history.
 
As with what most of the crew have posted above regarding possible problem areas, consider this: after having over half a dozen Toyota/Lexus products since 1991 and driving them well past the 250,000 mile marks, The problems mentioned above are few and far between, especially if one is to compare them to all the other options out there, e.g. Jeep, Chevy, Ford, Dodge, Ram, etc.
My little saying is, "Toyota/Lexus aren't even broken in until they they hit 100,000 miles!"
Unless you've purchased a vehicle from a person who has abused and not properly maintenance their vehicle, you'll be fine.
 
I’ve got a question for y’all that’s on topic, but also off-topic… I have a 2010 GX 460 (139k on it) that has recently developed a vibration/road feeling issue at highway speeds. At first, I thought it might be a bearing, but it’s not. I had it checked out thoroughly by a mechanic that I trust And he said it’s not a bearing. Instead, he suggested it might be the ridge grappler tires that I have on the truck (he was in a rush). However, the vibration stops when I let off the accelerator, which means it’s not the tires. I’m kind of getting the feeling like it might be something having to do with the drivetrain or transmission at this point. It really doesn’t start until 50 miles an hour or so, but it almost makes the car unenjoyable to drive. it feels like a constant howling, tire noise, but it’s not the tires. Thoughts?
 
I’ve got a question for y’all that’s on topic, but also off-topic… I have a 2010 GX 460 (139k on it) that has recently developed a vibration/road feeling issue at highway speeds. At first, I thought it might be a bearing, but it’s not. I had it checked out thoroughly by a mechanic that I trust And he said it’s not a bearing. Instead, he suggested it might be the ridge grappler tires that I have on the truck (he was in a rush). However, the vibration stops when I let off the accelerator, which means it’s not the tires. I’m kind of getting the feeling like it might be something having to do with the drivetrain or transmission at this point. It really doesn’t start until 50 miles an hour or so, but it almost makes the car unenjoyable to drive. it feels like a constant howling, tire noise, but it’s not the tires. Thoughts?
Is it worse on turns? Worse one direction than the other? If so, likely bearings. Just went through this on mine. I blamed my nearly-new Wildpeaks for a long time, having Discount rotate and rebalance several times with no improvement. Give that a shot first, of course. Bearings aren't that hard to do, nor any more expensive than a tire. :meh:

I couldn't discern the typical "wheel movement at 6 and 12 o'clock" that would indicate bad bearings, but they were definitely loud inside the cabin while driving.


Also, it's hilarious to read the first posts in this thread about a "crazy" market in Jan 2021. Little did we know...
 
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No, it’s not worse on turns. I did the dive test to double check the front bearings initially and it makes no difference. I also sat in the back seat/rear seats to listen in the rear. Nothing more than any other spot. The weird thing is that it only gives off that growly tire sound when I’m accelerating or even have my foot on the accelerator above 50 miles an hour. And immediately when I let off the accelerator, once the drivetrain disengages, I hear only tire noise, which is substantially less. It’s not a whining noise… More like a subtle vibration and light growling noise that does not get better or worse with speed. I’m wondering if it has to do with the tranny or diff. 🤔
 
No, it’s not worse on turns. I did the dive test to double check the front bearings initially and it makes no difference. I also sat in the back seat/rear seats to listen in the rear. Nothing more than any other spot. The weird thing is that it only gives off that growly tire sound when I’m accelerating or even have my foot on the accelerator above 50 miles an hour. And immediately when I let off the accelerator, once the drivetrain disengages, I hear only tire noise, which is substantially less. It’s not a whining noise… More like a subtle vibration and light growling noise that does not get better or worse with speed. I’m wondering if it has to do with the tranny or diff. 🤔
Start simple (and cheap) first. Your description is a little disconcerting, in that most all drivetrain components will change sounds with either speed or RPM. But check road-force balance of tires. Driveshaft lubed and in good shape? U joints greased and in good shape? Check diff fluid. Check tranny fluid for color/contaminants. Then front wheel bearings. I hear what you said, but mine passed all typical diagnostics, yet still roared. Rule out the simple first, before going to tranny/xfer. And you might want to start a new thread with a more specific topic to get more input.
 
I have those tires and they have over 20k miles (still look new with only a very small tread wear) and if they are freshly rotated it’ll have a small vibration on the highway 65mph+ for about 500-1,000 miles or so. If there’s nothing wrong with steering, suspension and alignment it’s the tires. I love these tires and they’ve far exceeded my expectations. How is the wear on your set?
 
I’ve got a question for y’all that’s on topic, but also off-topic… I have a 2010 GX 460 (139k on it) that has recently developed a vibration/road feeling issue at highway speeds. At first, I thought it might be a bearing, but it’s not. I had it checked out thoroughly by a mechanic that I trust And he said it’s not a bearing. Instead, he suggested it might be the ridge grappler tires that I have on the truck (he was in a rush). However, the vibration stops when I let off the accelerator, which means it’s not the tires. I’m kind of getting the feeling like it might be something having to do with the drivetrain or transmission at this point. It really doesn’t start until 50 miles an hour or so, but it almost makes the car unenjoyable to drive. it feels like a constant howling, tire noise, but it’s not the tires. Thoughts?
Have you checked the ball joints? Does the steering feel a little sloppy too?
 
A bad boot and as a result, CV on my 470 caused a strange vibration under load. So did wheel bearings on two occasions. I've also had heat shields fall off, get stuck, and vibrate like hell at the strangest times.

Like someone else said, make sure the axles are greased appropriately. Did he check the upper and lower control arm bushings? That would cause more wandering than vibrating, but who knows.
 
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People like to say these are bullet proof, and probably are overall, but just know you might get unlucky. I bought a 2010 a year ago with a pretty extensive maintenance history and now have all the isusses people say to look out for. Coolant valley leak and needs a new transmission. If you don't have history of the transmission fluid being changed then do it ASAP. Lexus is full of crap about the lifetime fluid. Mine could have been confused for oil! I have 135,000 And metal in the pan. The shop said there are 36 of these transmissions on back order thru Lexus, that's a pretty significant number. Read the forums and the Facebook groups, the transmission issues are becoming a more common problem for the 10-14 models.
 
People like to say these are bullet proof, and probably are overall, but just know you might get unlucky. I bought a 2010 a year ago with a pretty extensive maintenance history and now have all the isusses people say to look out for. Coolant valley leak and needs a new transmission. If you don't have history of the transmission fluid being changed then do it ASAP. Lexus is full of crap about the lifetime fluid. Mine could have been confused for oil! I have 135,000 And metal in the pan. The shop said there are 36 of these transmissions on back order thru Lexus, that's a pretty significant number. Read the forums and the Facebook groups, the transmission issues are becoming a more common problem for the 10-14 models.
I forgot to say...or make sure to get an extended warranty thru your bank. I'm waiting to hear if they will be covering mine. It's pretty clear that it should based on my contract, but I know they try to snake their way out of those big jobs.
 
People like to say these are bullet proof, and probably are overall, but just know you might get unlucky. I bought a 2010 a year ago with a pretty extensive maintenance history and now have all the isusses people say to look out for. Coolant valley leak and needs a new transmission. If you don't have history of the transmission fluid being changed then do it ASAP. Lexus is full of crap about the lifetime fluid. Mine could have been confused for oil! I have 135,000 And metal in the pan. The shop said there are 36 of these transmissions on back order thru Lexus, that's a pretty significant number. Read the forums and the Facebook groups, the transmission issues are becoming a more common problem for the 10-14 models.

The trans issue is more previous owner(s) than vehicle. The second and third owners of these likely got them cheap because they were in a lower income bracket and thus didn’t take care of them properly. This is what happens with most German vehicles not named Porsche. Lower income folks buy the badge and not the required maintenance and ownership that comes with them.

My 2010 was previously owned by someone who had kids yet it was very well maintained. I had the trans fluid flushed with almost 150k miles and the trans fluid was a little dark but not scary black and no metal shavings detected. Transmission is in perfect shape now at 158k+ miles. This is why a PPI (pre purchase inspection) is strongly recommended on premium brands especially. Not even Toyota/Lexus is immune to the owner or owners who beat on their vehicle 24/7/365 and cannot afford or want to maintain these. I drove a few worn out and tired GX’s when I went shopping for a 470 and 460 pre-covid when the prices were VERY low.

And I don’t think 36 transmissions on back order countrywide is “significant” in my opinion.

Now the coolant valley plate leak is a real thing and WILL happen on ALL 2010-2014 460’s due to the s***ty silicone they used from the factory. I just had mine done a couple weeks ago.
 
The trans issue is more previous owner(s) than vehicle. The second and third owners of these likely got them cheap because they were in a lower income bracket and thus didn’t take care of them properly. This is what happens with most German vehicles not named Porsche. Lower income folks buy the badge and not the required maintenance and ownership that comes with them.

My 2010 was previously owned by someone who had kids yet it was very well maintained. I had the trans fluid flushed with almost 150k miles and the trans fluid was a little dark but not scary black and no metal shavings detected. Transmission is in perfect shape now at 158k+ miles. This is why a PPI (pre purchase inspection) is strongly recommended on premium brands especially. Not even Toyota/Lexus is immune to the owner or owners who beat on their vehicle 24/7/365 and cannot afford or want to maintain these. I drove a few worn out and tired GX’s when I went shopping for a 470 and 460 pre-covid when the prices were VERY low.

And I don’t think 36 transmissions on back order countrywide is “significant” in my opinion.

Now the coolant valley plate leak is a real thing and WILL happen on ALL 2010-2014 460’s due to the s***ty silicone they used from the factory. I just had mine done a couple weeks ago.
Yeah those are good points. Mine was an old couple that did every maintenance by the book.l, and the 2nd owner didn't even have it a year. The significant part was a quote from the tech at the shop. I didn't think it was a big number either, but he said they've been seeing a lot of them. I only know 3 other people with a 460, and all three are getting the P2714 code. Again, I know that's antidotal evidence and maybe not as wide spread as it seems in my head. Luckily I think I'm getting the new transmission paid for along with the leaky valve covers. The coolant valley isn't covered, but if thats the only out of pocket expense then I'll consider that a win!
 
I’m not sure year cutoff on valley leak…. here is a ‘16+ 200 series


4.6L 1UR-FE also used in 200 series in markets outside of NA but 5.7L 3UR-FE isn’t immune to issue either

 
Yeah those are good points. Mine was an old couple that did every maintenance by the book.l, and the 2nd owner didn't even have it a year. The significant part was a quote from the tech at the shop. I didn't think it was a big number either, but he said they've been seeing a lot of them. I only know 3 other people with a 460, and all three are getting the P2714 code. Again, I know that's antidotal evidence and maybe not as wide spread as it seems in my head. Luckily I think I'm getting the new transmission paid for along with the leaky valve covers. The coolant valley isn't covered, but if thats the only out of pocket expense then I'll consider that a win!

A new trans paid for is a huge win regardless of circumstances. Once the coolant valley plate issue crops up and you fix it you’ll be golden for probably a decade or two easy.
 
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