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I went down this path, and ended up buying the real deal from Amayama. I also did full sound deadening of the front doors. Whatever improvements were had by the seals, they were dwarfed by adding sound insulation.
If your truck is pre-03, you probably do not have the square peg mounts at the upper rear doors for factory ‘03 and later rear door seals. You would have to use 3M EHB tape, which works very well.So it looks like this would be the comprehensive list, no clips required correct? From what I gather, the only way to seal the upper B pillar is to replace the rear door weatherstrip completely? Not necessarily bad news, as mine have some tears at the clips and don't always stay put.
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"I thought I would try a low dollar experiment, which is unusual for me"
I feel seen...
Definitely going to give that a go for the upper B pillar before ordering anything else. Since that's right by my ear it could be a good start.
Update: Ordered. Arrives Friday, will report back.
Oh wild, good to know, thanks!I went down this path, and ended up buying the real deal from Amayama. I also did full sound deadening of the front doors. Whatever improvements were had by the seals, they were dwarfed by adding sound insulation.
You got any pics of this? I can't quite picture how this is applied.If your truck is pre-03, you probably do not have the square peg mounts at the upper rear doors for factory ‘03 and later rear door seals. You would have to use 3M EHB tape, which works very well.
On my 2002 LX, the rear door seals were in excellent condition. I could not see replacing them just to gain the benefit of the upper rear door factory seal.
I thought I would try a low dollar experiment, which is unusual for me, to see if I can get the same benefit without replacing the entire rear door seals.
I used this Z shaped EPDM rubber moulding, and it works perfectly, and it looks OEM.
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If you read from post #90 in this thread, you will see that there are several other weather strips that aggregate into an even quieter cabin environment.@shane431
Happy to pay it forward! Happened to drive the 100 today and got a break in the rain. Hardest part about the application for me was maintaining a straight line, it's a little awkward on the first one.
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Some more pictures…So, I finally finished the installation of all the weatherstripping listed in this thread. I installed the 2 inner pieces in between the fenders and the front door hinges. Not difficult to install but was a little tricky. I have a 2001 LC so I did not have the factory provided holes for the top button.
If you have the 3 holes then installation is really easy, just open the door and from the outside you can just wedge it in and press in the buttons. If you do not have the top hole then remove the top button and go ahead and install.
I used a spring loaded center punch to mark where I needed to drill. Next you will need an 1/8” aircraft drill bit to drill a pilot hole followed by a 5/16” aircraft drill bit to get closer. I then used a chainsaw round file to enlarge the hole to equal the sides of the plastic opening in the piece of weatherstripping. I then used 90 degree bent needle nose pliers to hold the plastic button and used a piece of steel rod to push the button home. Little tedious but they are fully installed.
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Everyone knows an LX470 is an upgraded Land Cruiser lolIt's a whole lot less labor intensive (and less expensive) to add the "Land Cruiser" badge(s), than it is to add the sound deadening![]()
Read post #224Hmm - I think I may be missing this piece of A-pillar/front of door trim in my LC install? I’ve for sure done the b-pillar bottoms and the one that attaches to the door card. Now I’m wanting to do the top of b-pillar one.
Earlier today I downloaded a db meter to my iPhone, and was at around 60db at 55mph. That is after a bunch of the door seals and major sound insulation in my front doors, to the point much of my cabin noise now seems to be from the rear hatch. Would be interested to see others readings!