More evidence why the LX is quieter than the Land Cruiser

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I went down this path, and ended up buying the real deal from Amayama. I also did full sound deadening of the front doors. Whatever improvements were had by the seals, they were dwarfed by adding sound insulation.

Agreed. I put dynomat on the inner and outer door skins when I replaced my speakers and the doors shut like a bank vault now. I do believe the LX seals help in regards to dust ingress though.
 
So it looks like this would be the comprehensive list, no clips required correct? From what I gather, the only way to seal the upper B pillar is to replace the rear door weatherstrip completely? Not necessarily bad news, as mine have some tears at the clips and don't always stay put.

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So it looks like this would be the comprehensive list, no clips required correct? From what I gather, the only way to seal the upper B pillar is to replace the rear door weatherstrip completely? Not necessarily bad news, as mine have some tears at the clips and don't always stay put.

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If your truck is pre-03, you probably do not have the square peg mounts at the upper rear doors for factory ‘03 and later rear door seals. You would have to use 3M EHB tape, which works very well.

On my 2002 LX, the rear door seals were in excellent condition. I could not see replacing them just to gain the benefit of the upper rear door factory seal.

I thought I would try a low dollar experiment, which is unusual for me, to see if I can get the same benefit without replacing the entire rear door seals.
I used this Z shaped EPDM rubber moulding, and it works perfectly, and it looks OEM.

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"I thought I would try a low dollar experiment, which is unusual for me"

I feel seen...

Definitely going to give that a go for the upper B pillar before ordering anything else. Since that's right by my ear it could be a good start.

Update: Ordered. Arrives Friday, will report back.
 
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"I thought I would try a low dollar experiment, which is unusual for me"

I feel seen...

Definitely going to give that a go for the upper B pillar before ordering anything else. Since that's right by my ear it could be a good start.

Update: Ordered. Arrives Friday, will report back.

Be advised:

Anything you attach to your vehicle using an adhesive bond, must be applied in the substrate is quite warm so as to allow the tape to adhere fully.
This means you gotta do it when the doors are warm and the tape is warm. Make sure you clean with isopropyl alcohol and allow to dry fully.
Never touch the adhesive part of the tape with your fingers.
Make sure your scissors are clean and dry… Wipe them down with isopropyl alcohol. Don’t want any chance that the tape will begin to lift due to oils or other contaminants.

When I did mine, I made sure the truck was parked in the sun for at least an hour on an 85° plus day… the application surface must be warm for the tape to work correctly.

Once you get the item positioned correctly, press the item onto the surface and hold for 30 seconds in each area of the adhesive tape… promotes adhesion. Then leave it alone undisturbed for at least an hour in the warm sun. After an hour in the sun, press down along the entire length of the tape once more.

I installed mine in mid 2023… and to this date, there is no sign of them lifting or moving out of position.

.
 
Beautiful. It'll be almost 80 here this weekend (in January...) so I'll let her cook. Thank you!
 
I went down this path, and ended up buying the real deal from Amayama. I also did full sound deadening of the front doors. Whatever improvements were had by the seals, they were dwarfed by adding sound insulation.
Oh wild, good to know, thanks!
 
Update:
Did the Amazon special over the weekend. Drove her to work this morning, 75 or so for 15 miles. Could be my mind playing tricks on me, but I'm hearing much less wind noise than before and more road noise from the rear wheel wells. Time to deaden those...

Thanks @Unrulykid !
 
my conclusion from any noise deadening is that I can now pinpoint wind noise from other locations more effectively. It’s a slippery slope!
 
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Yup... and when you pull the rear apart and lay something down over the rear wheen arches... then the sunroof will pop-up. it shows the steps are working. As one gets quieter, you can hear others. I am thinking of pulling headliner this year and venture up there!
 
If your truck is pre-03, you probably do not have the square peg mounts at the upper rear doors for factory ‘03 and later rear door seals. You would have to use 3M EHB tape, which works very well.

On my 2002 LX, the rear door seals were in excellent condition. I could not see replacing them just to gain the benefit of the upper rear door factory seal.

I thought I would try a low dollar experiment, which is unusual for me, to see if I can get the same benefit without replacing the entire rear door seals.
I used this Z shaped EPDM rubber moulding, and it works perfectly, and it looks OEM.

View attachment 3827206

You got any pics of this? I can't quite picture how this is applied.
 
@shane431

Happy to pay it forward! Happened to drive the 100 today and got a break in the rain. Hardest part about the application for me was maintaining a straight line, it's a little awkward on the first one.

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If you read from post #90 in this thread, you will see that there are several other weather strips that aggregate into an even quieter cabin environment.

I did them all, and the interior noise difference is significant.

Well worth the effort in my opinion.
 
So, I finally finished the installation of all the weatherstripping listed in this thread. I installed the 2 inner pieces in between the fenders and the front door hinges. Not difficult to install but was a little tricky. I have a 2001 LC so I did not have the factory provided holes for the top button.


If you have the 3 holes then installation is really easy, just open the door and from the outside you can just wedge it in and press in the buttons. If you do not have the top hole then remove the top button and go ahead and install.


I used a spring loaded center punch to mark where I needed to drill. Next you will need an 1/8” aircraft drill bit to drill a pilot hole followed by a 5/16” aircraft drill bit to get closer. I then used a chainsaw round file to enlarge the hole to equal the sides of the plastic opening in the piece of weatherstripping. I then used 90 degree bent needle nose pliers to hold the plastic button and used a piece of steel rod to push the button home. Little tedious but they are fully installed.

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So, I finally finished the installation of all the weatherstripping listed in this thread. I installed the 2 inner pieces in between the fenders and the front door hinges. Not difficult to install but was a little tricky. I have a 2001 LC so I did not have the factory provided holes for the top button.


If you have the 3 holes then installation is really easy, just open the door and from the outside you can just wedge it in and press in the buttons. If you do not have the top hole then remove the top button and go ahead and install.


I used a spring loaded center punch to mark where I needed to drill. Next you will need an 1/8” aircraft drill bit to drill a pilot hole followed by a 5/16” aircraft drill bit to get closer. I then used a chainsaw round file to enlarge the hole to equal the sides of the plastic opening in the piece of weatherstripping. I then used 90 degree bent needle nose pliers to hold the plastic button and used a piece of steel rod to push the button home. Little tedious but they are fully installed.

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Some more pictures…

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Hmm - I think I may be missing this piece of A-pillar/front of door trim in my LC install? I’ve for sure done the b-pillar bottoms and the one that attaches to the door card. Now I’m wanting to do the top of b-pillar one.

Earlier today I downloaded a db meter to my iPhone, and was at around 60db at 55mph. That is after a bunch of the door seals and major sound insulation in my front doors, to the point much of my cabin noise now seems to be from the rear hatch. Would be interested to see others readings!
 
It's a whole lot less labor intensive (and less expensive) to add the "Land Cruiser" badge(s), than it is to add the sound deadening ;)
Everyone knows an LX470 is an upgraded Land Cruiser lol
 
Hmm - I think I may be missing this piece of A-pillar/front of door trim in my LC install? I’ve for sure done the b-pillar bottoms and the one that attaches to the door card. Now I’m wanting to do the top of b-pillar one.

Earlier today I downloaded a db meter to my iPhone, and was at around 60db at 55mph. That is after a bunch of the door seals and major sound insulation in my front doors, to the point much of my cabin noise now seems to be from the rear hatch. Would be interested to see others readings!
Read post #224

It’s a lot less expensive than buying new rear door seals.
 

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