More evidence why the LX is quieter than the Land Cruiser (1 Viewer)

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Installed the 06/07 front and rear door weatherstrips on my '00 LX. All plastic gromets are in the same location except for the additional mounting point for. The rubber seals the gap between doors a lot better.
What size drill bit did you use for the push clip that connects the new door seal and the extra seal?
 
13/64. Rear door closed, front door open.
You’d be able to drill it straight in without clearance issues on the drill.
I took a picture of how it looks like. Hole was protected with primer spray and sharpie paint pen.
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Ordered all seals from Amayama. Both Amayama (and then LexusPartsNow) canceled the order for the cowl/fender seals 5386660060 and/or 5386760060. Just tried again with Partsouq. Possible these are NLA or at least indefinite backorder.
 
13/64. Rear door closed, front door open.
You’d be able to drill it straight in without clearance issues on the drill.
Did you use double sided tape for the seal between the doors since the older model 100's don't have the rectangular hooks built into the door?
 
Did you use double sided tape for the seal between the doors since the older model 100's don't have the rectangular hooks built into the door?
Yes, I used 3M 03614 leftovers from my audio upgrade.

Adhesion's not great unless you heat that up with a hair dryer before applying. They also lose adhesion with the slightest amounts of grease or oil.
The preapplied tape from Mr T's a good choice for stronger adhesion but I'm not sure what's a good substitute for that.
 
One thing you'd notice immediately with the new weatherstrips... the doors require more shutting force for shutting them tight!
The door edges are sealing a lot better than the aged rubber that went out.
 
One thing you'd notice immediately with the new weatherstrips... the doors require more shutting force for shutting them tight!
The door edges are sealing a lot better than the aged rubber that went out.
Yeah, when I closed the door for the first time and it didn't fully close I thought I left a rag or tool in the way of the door closing, but I didn't, you just have to push a lot harder to close.
 
Thanks. Do you think your .5" tape was good? I see .5, .4 and .25 widths available. It looks like 3M recommends using a adhesion promoter cleaner for low energy surfaces like small plastic/rubber parts.
I used a 0.5" roll. As long as you're able to get it to stick it'll stay in place. If it doesn't adhere to the surfaces on initial application, it's going to fall off.
You're going to need heat, so leaving the cruiser under the sun for a couple of hours and heat the roll of tape if you're using 3M 03614 and it makes things a lot easier.

I did this when it was under 70°F under shade, wasn't fun!
 
Appreciate that - I found them on Partsouq and they just arrived yesterday. Waiting for a warm day to put everything on so they will be a little more pliable. Can't wait!
 
Two questions on this: First - Prices have seemingly gone up. The whole set, if you can find it, now runs about $260 shipped. Still worth it?

Second - I would be doing this to a 1998 LC that is plenty noisy inside. Do I need the full door weather stripping? I am not following the pre/post-2003 differences in seal type.
 
Two questions on this: First - Prices have seemingly gone up. The whole set, if you can find it, now runs about $260 shipped. Still worth it?

Second - I would be doing this to a 1998 LC that is plenty noisy inside. Do I need the full door weather stripping? I am not following the pre/post-2003 differences in seal type.
I know that your description of “plenty noisy inside” is a subjective term… however;

If you have an aftermarket muffler with that bro truck sound, you do not need any of these sound attenuating tricks.

But if your vehicle has a well functioning stock exhaust and has been very fairly well-maintained, you may find a benefit from these sound attenuating tricks.

Cabin noise is an aggregate of wind, road and vehicle noises…

Window seals and door seals help with the wind noise…

I can personally attest to the fact that these sound attenuating bits and tricks do indeed work noticeably quite well…

But all is defeated if you have a loud exhaust.

Get a loud stereo… and yet, even with a high-quality sound system, you will notice of benefit from the sound attenuating tricks.

My 2 cents…
 
Picked this one up recently with 178k miles on it, have been searching through the forum to see what is normal and what isn’t for wind noise. Discovered that the roof rack rails have been on backwards for 25 years and nobody noticed… Also had to put a new exhaust on it as the only thing needed for inspection, so is overall pretty quiet in terms of engine noise, and now I’m doing this as part of baselining.

Will take a look at the differences in seals from the pics posted here. I have done stereo sound deadening previously, and agree that managing external sources of noise is a better bet than turning up the stereo! Especially when you are rocking the original 1998 CD/cassette deck.
 
Two questions on this: First - Prices have seemingly gone up. The whole set, if you can find it, now runs about $260 shipped. Still worth it?

Second - I would be doing this to a 1998 LC that is plenty noisy inside. Do I need the full door weather stripping? I am not following the pre/post-2003 differences in seal type.
If you're referring to whistling noises at high speed and have a correctly or factory installed windshield, its mostly from the front doors. The 06-07 door weatherstrips seem to seal tighter. The rear door weatherstrip sitting next to the B pillar also helps tremendously.

If it's noise from the wheel well or bell housing that's another project.
 
So for some unscientific readouts on these options. Just for info, I did all of these seals - new door seals all around; one between driver and rear doors, one on the cowl in front of front doors (crazy where that is located, I never would have guessed), used regular foam strip from HD under the doors as I was having trouble sourcing those. I also have new windshield and sunroof seals, as well as an application of dynamat-type and heavy foam with vinyl backing through whole vehicle except roof. Anyway, I added the seals (LX and new door seals) discussed in this thread and to be honest not impressed. I didn't measure before/after as intended, but not noticed when driving.... however, I just drove cross country and noticed that the highest the stereo was ever played was 23.... when norm would have been 27/28, and high of 33ish. I know none of that means anything to you, but clearly I didn't feel the need to turn it up as loud.
 
@SmoothLC and @TLEXAS ... I'll snap some pics later today and tag y'all in the post. Best $14 upgrade I've done.

This is what I used though.....https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-E-O-9-16-in-x-5-16-in-x-10-ft-Black-EPDM-Cellular-Rubber-Weather-Strip-Tape-Cushioned-Ribbed-V27BK/301319305
Did you ever post pics anywhere?
 
I went down this path, and ended up buying the real deal from Amayama. I also did full sound deadening of the front doors. Whatever improvements were had by the seals, they were dwarfed by adding sound insulation.
 

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