TLC Norway
woodwelder
Wow, good luck on the move! Good to know that everything that would fit in a Jetta, will fit on the roof of a sixty! 
Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (13 Viewers)
- Thread starter GLTHFJ60
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- Thread starter
- #882
Wow, good luck on the move! Good to know that everything that would fit in a Jetta, will fit on the roof of a sixty!
Thanks man!Got a couple of electrical quirks to work out. As I mentioned before, I had a problem with the tail light fuse blowing out, in addition to one headlight being out. When that happened the first time, I only had a spare 30 amp fuse to replace the stock 15 amp fuse with, but the 30 amp fuse blew as well. The problem ended up being that the front marker lights on the quarters had broken and the contact was being bridged, which blew the fuse. Took the indicators out and that solved the fuse issue. After that, I realized that the passenger rear tail light wasn't coming on, so I changed the bulb. Unfortunately, neither the tail light or passenger rear quarter marker light came on with the other side, so I've got a wiring problem out back to figure out, easy enough to do myself.
The headlight issue is more complicated and seemingly unrelated to the tail light issue. When I reassembled the front end, the driver headlight wasn't on in low beam. Like a logical person, I switched the bulb but that still didn't fix it. Great, another wiring issue. I drove home last night with my high beams on, thinking that both headlights would be on. When I parked behind a car, I only saw the reflection coming from the driver side, not the passenger side. Sure enough, with the high beams on, only the driver side comes on, but with the low beams on, only the passenger side comes on.
Does anyone have knowledge of the headlight circuits that can shed light on this issue? Is there a relay or switch that I need to check? I am currently searching around to see if I can find an answer. Thanks for the help gents.
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- Nov 22, 2010
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- Wilmington, NC
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- www.kindredspiritscsg.com
Sucks to hear about the wiring issues, the best way to handle it would be to look at the wires running over to the different headlights and make sure that the wires didn't get damaged or shorted out during the swap.
If you have a electrical diagram it will help greatly, If you need it let me know I can post up a picture or if you want I have a pdf of the FSM I could email you.
If you have a electrical diagram it will help greatly, If you need it let me know I can post up a picture or if you want I have a pdf of the FSM I could email you.
- Thread starter
- #884
Thanks man. I have the FSM and quickly found slcfj62's Headlight Troubleshooting Thread. I'll work through it, I just thought I was done for now
On top of that, the pickup on my fuel tank is starting to rot through. It leaks when the tank is full. IH8RUST
Damn Johnny you just can't catch a break. I had a feeling that the frame swap would bring up new issues, but figured if I said anything it would just jinx it all. Good luck buddy. See you in a couple days.
It took one day less than a month to do this whole project. Not bad for a couple of guys, working in a barn without a lift
Hell yeah buddy!!!!
I love the fast pace.....
I 'm almost done with my 40 project...its going so fast I havent had time to post anything on the thread.
Im glad to see you are back rollin in the 60!
electrical issues are no big deal......REALLY!
Wow, looking good. Good luck with the gremlins.
Chad
Chad
- Thread starter
- #888
Nick said that as well. Overall the project went without a hitch so this is small potatoes. You heading up on Friday?
Hell yeah buddy!!!!
I love the fast pace.....
I 'm almost done with my 40 project...its going so fast I havent had time to post anything on the thread.
Im glad to see you are back rollin in the 60!
electrical issues are no big deal......REALLY!
I'm patiently watching your 40 project. Keep it up Tom!!
Wow, looking good. Good luck with the gremlins.
Thanks Chad! Moonshine pales in comparison to your rig!
In other news, got the high beams working today, but no luck with the low beam on the driver side. We can detect current on the right prong of the plug while the low beams are on with a good body ground through a test light, so I believe it is a ground issue. Can anyone tell me where the headlights ground through the factory harness?
Indeed I am.
- Thread starter
- #890
Awesome, ill see you then. Btw, I checked and I no longer have that 60 housing, sorry buddy.
- Thread starter
- #891
Had a huge triumph yesterday when we figured out the tail light issue. Here's the long story...
So the tail light housing has three sockets for bulbs; turn, reverse and brake / tail. All three have a ground on the outside of the socket and the top two have one wire going into the socket to make contact with the bulb. The bottom socket ( brake / tail ) has two wires going into the socket to make contact for the bulb. The green wire is for the brake light and the red wire is for the tail light; this bulb is a dual filament bulb.
Tail light housing removed from vehicle
Bottom socket with bulb removed
You can see the two contacts in the bottom of the socket
The two contacts are in a plastic pad that rides on a spring in the very bottom of the socket. This allows the contact pad to maintain constant contact with the bulb when it is installed. If you push up on the pad from the back side of the socket with a small, long screwdriver, the pad will pop out of the socket and you can see how the wires are soldered onto the pad.
Once I got to this step, I determined that the cause for my tail light not working was that the tail light contact rotted off of the pad. Since the contact is just a shaped solder joint, I figured we could just re-solder the wire onto the pad and we'd be good to go.
So I fed the other wire through the back of the socket and re-soldered the joint, after some fussing of course. I know the solder joints aren't the best, but I didn't feel like buying a better soldering gun than what I had. It was too cold and had a curved tip instead of a pointed one.
After you solder the joints, use a file to ensure the new contacts are the same height in relation to the pad. This ensures that the bulb will be touching both contacts when installed. After filing, install the pad back into the socket, lining up the tab on the pad with the corresponding slot in the socket. Install the bulb with some dielectric grease and you're *hopefully* good to go!
A couple of notes;
Diagnosis:
When diagnosing this issue, we determined that current was getting to the tail light plug and was being passed along to the passenger rear quarter marker light, narrowing the problem down to the bulb socket. Before jumping to this point, make sure that the proper voltage is being passed along the wiring harness to the tail light housing plug. The side marker light gets power from the tail light housing plug, so it is possible for the side marker light to work without the tail light working.
Tools:
Ensure you are using a very hot, pointed soldering iron. Don't use a weak or curved wire soldering iron, it sucks. In addition, do not hold the pad with a wrench around the outside while soldering the contacts back on. The heat will weaken the plastic pad and might promote bending. I went a bit too far and actually broke my pad in half. I was able to fix it by epoxying it back together, but if you're careful, that should not be necessary.
Corrosion:
Before doing any of this, go through the plugs for the back half of your truck and clean all of them. Use some electronics cleaner to remove the corrosion and then dielectric grease to prevent further corrosion. It is likely that your lighting issue is caused by corrosion, so try that first.
Hopefully this helps someone. Thanks for reading!
So the tail light housing has three sockets for bulbs; turn, reverse and brake / tail. All three have a ground on the outside of the socket and the top two have one wire going into the socket to make contact with the bulb. The bottom socket ( brake / tail ) has two wires going into the socket to make contact for the bulb. The green wire is for the brake light and the red wire is for the tail light; this bulb is a dual filament bulb.
Tail light housing removed from vehicle
Bottom socket with bulb removed
You can see the two contacts in the bottom of the socket
The two contacts are in a plastic pad that rides on a spring in the very bottom of the socket. This allows the contact pad to maintain constant contact with the bulb when it is installed. If you push up on the pad from the back side of the socket with a small, long screwdriver, the pad will pop out of the socket and you can see how the wires are soldered onto the pad.
Once I got to this step, I determined that the cause for my tail light not working was that the tail light contact rotted off of the pad. Since the contact is just a shaped solder joint, I figured we could just re-solder the wire onto the pad and we'd be good to go.
So I fed the other wire through the back of the socket and re-soldered the joint, after some fussing of course. I know the solder joints aren't the best, but I didn't feel like buying a better soldering gun than what I had. It was too cold and had a curved tip instead of a pointed one.
After you solder the joints, use a file to ensure the new contacts are the same height in relation to the pad. This ensures that the bulb will be touching both contacts when installed. After filing, install the pad back into the socket, lining up the tab on the pad with the corresponding slot in the socket. Install the bulb with some dielectric grease and you're *hopefully* good to go!
A couple of notes;
Diagnosis:
When diagnosing this issue, we determined that current was getting to the tail light plug and was being passed along to the passenger rear quarter marker light, narrowing the problem down to the bulb socket. Before jumping to this point, make sure that the proper voltage is being passed along the wiring harness to the tail light housing plug. The side marker light gets power from the tail light housing plug, so it is possible for the side marker light to work without the tail light working.
Tools:
Ensure you are using a very hot, pointed soldering iron. Don't use a weak or curved wire soldering iron, it sucks. In addition, do not hold the pad with a wrench around the outside while soldering the contacts back on. The heat will weaken the plastic pad and might promote bending. I went a bit too far and actually broke my pad in half. I was able to fix it by epoxying it back together, but if you're careful, that should not be necessary.
Corrosion:
Before doing any of this, go through the plugs for the back half of your truck and clean all of them. Use some electronics cleaner to remove the corrosion and then dielectric grease to prevent further corrosion. It is likely that your lighting issue is caused by corrosion, so try that first.
Hopefully this helps someone. Thanks for reading!
- Thread starter
- #892
Whew, made it from NY to NC a little over a week ago and have finally gotten internet up so I can troll the forum with something other than my phone.
Loaded the 60 up with all of my and my girlfriend's stuff. Ended up at 9.5' tall and probably overloaded. The shocks need to be stiffer for that much weight and the springs need a couple more leafs, both front and rear, should this much weight be hauled consistently.
The trip took 15 hours in the cruiser, partially because we had to stop a couple of times to nap. We left Schenectady at 3:30 in the morning. Remembered to snap a picture at a rest area and this one came out pretty good. This was in Virginia.
This is what my new street looks like just about every day at sunset. Absolutely gorgeous. I think I can get used to this.
If you remember, I discovered a gas leak the day after we finished the frame swap. After we got down here I contacted the local club to see if anyone had a good 60 gas tank and I got lucky. Darin, krzyabncanuck on this board, is in the process of rebuilding his 60 after an accident and happened to have a spare, rust free tank, so I scooped it up. Spent the last two afternoons replacing my old tank. Encountered a couple of issues with the EVAP system as I took it apart. The fuel vapor condenser tube was rotted through as was one of the vent lines in the quarter panel. I capped off three of the 5 vents on the tank, save for the fill neck vent and the line right next to it, which I am using as the main tank vent. The new vent is routed along the frame with the stock vent line. My original charcoal canister got tossed during the frame swap so I'm going to pursue getting a more modern replacement to hook up to the vent, so stay tuned for the final product. One of the strap bolts broke as well, so *had* to buy a new drill and bit set to get it out. Got a nice Milwakee Magnum corded drill for $180 and it's very powerful. Anyway, here are the pictures from my first project at the new house;
Tank out, prepping for the new one.
Old tank and offending feed / return lines. Very rotted and they leaked when the tank was more than 1/3 full;
New tank with very pretty pickup. I pained the feed / return lines and the vents with my cold galvanizing paint in hopes of slowing rot in the future. There is no salt down here in NC so hopefully that won't be an issue, but one cannot be too careful.
First day of the new job is tomorrow. Wish me luck!
Loaded the 60 up with all of my and my girlfriend's stuff. Ended up at 9.5' tall and probably overloaded. The shocks need to be stiffer for that much weight and the springs need a couple more leafs, both front and rear, should this much weight be hauled consistently.
The trip took 15 hours in the cruiser, partially because we had to stop a couple of times to nap. We left Schenectady at 3:30 in the morning. Remembered to snap a picture at a rest area and this one came out pretty good. This was in Virginia.
This is what my new street looks like just about every day at sunset. Absolutely gorgeous. I think I can get used to this.
If you remember, I discovered a gas leak the day after we finished the frame swap. After we got down here I contacted the local club to see if anyone had a good 60 gas tank and I got lucky. Darin, krzyabncanuck on this board, is in the process of rebuilding his 60 after an accident and happened to have a spare, rust free tank, so I scooped it up. Spent the last two afternoons replacing my old tank. Encountered a couple of issues with the EVAP system as I took it apart. The fuel vapor condenser tube was rotted through as was one of the vent lines in the quarter panel. I capped off three of the 5 vents on the tank, save for the fill neck vent and the line right next to it, which I am using as the main tank vent. The new vent is routed along the frame with the stock vent line. My original charcoal canister got tossed during the frame swap so I'm going to pursue getting a more modern replacement to hook up to the vent, so stay tuned for the final product. One of the strap bolts broke as well, so *had* to buy a new drill and bit set to get it out. Got a nice Milwakee Magnum corded drill for $180 and it's very powerful. Anyway, here are the pictures from my first project at the new house;
Tank out, prepping for the new one.
Old tank and offending feed / return lines. Very rotted and they leaked when the tank was more than 1/3 full;
New tank with very pretty pickup. I pained the feed / return lines and the vents with my cold galvanizing paint in hopes of slowing rot in the future. There is no salt down here in NC so hopefully that won't be an issue, but one cannot be too careful.
First day of the new job is tomorrow. Wish me luck!
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #894
Thank you sir! Good luck getting your 40 finished up!
I'm glad things are going well for you.
How fast could you go with all the stuff on the roof?
The picture of the street is beautiful.
Nice work on the tank!
How fast could you go with all the stuff on the roof?
The picture of the street is beautiful.
Nice work on the tank!
TLC Norway
woodwelder
Oh, looks like a nice place! Enjoy!
Aye Johnny glad to hear you makin' things move ....and takin' on things like that tank----it's not the easiest thing to wrestle. Yez, wrestle IS the right word if my recent memory serves me well!
Keep on keepin' then....
Keep on keepin' then....
LOL, I laugh at myself-----shoot, man, you just did the frame how much harder could the tank be? What oom I thinkin'??
Holy crap....
You got all your stuff in there tight and everywhere. Looks like the beverly hillbillies with style!
Glad to here your settling in nice and enjoy the job too. Best to you and maybe we"ll see you in MOAB at some point!........your getting a tad closer sir!
You got all your stuff in there tight and everywhere. Looks like the beverly hillbillies with style!
Glad to here your settling in nice and enjoy the job too. Best to you and maybe we"ll see you in MOAB at some point!........your getting a tad closer sir!
