Monitoring Boost

[lastresort576]

Yes but you are talking turbo and "tuning". I don't plan to tune anything. I am leaving all settings stock, not advancing timing, etc.

Sure but forced induction is forced induction. You are putting more air into your engine. If you don't add more fuel to keep your AFR's around stoich you're asking for trouble imo.

The AEM uego wide band is nice and uses the same O2 sensor as vw's.
innovative is another good one to check out.
Any wideband o2 sensor is going to be $$$
As for boost gauge just find an autometer that suits your tastes.

 

[1FZj80]

any combo boost / afr guages that guys reccomend? would like to run just one guage if possible. I found one AEM one but it is $$$$

I'm using this gauge. It works with many of Auber's displays which can also be used with other sensors/transducers.
3 Bar, 48 PSI, Boost Sensor for Diesel Engine [AUBER-303] - $42.76 : auberins.com, Temperature control solutions for home and industry

 

[1973Guppie]

Digital EGT Gauge (Round) with TC-KEGTS Probe [Combo-MR-EGTS] - $108.50 : auberins.com, Temperature control solutions for home and industry

this one looks like the ticket! Am I correct in that this one can sense multiple guages one at at time? I wonder if it could do EGR, AFR and boost?

 

[1FZj80]

It will work with only one sensor at a time. The display is set (programmed) for the type of sensor used (e.g., thermocouple, RTD, pressure transducer, etc.).

This gets you dual channel.
Automobile Multimeter, Dual Channel [SYL-2813] - $79.95 : auberins.com, Temperature control solutions for home and industry

 

[inkpot]

Sure but forced induction is forced induction. You are putting more air into your engine. If you don't add more fuel to keep your AFR's around stoich you're asking for trouble imo.

The AEM uego wide band is nice and uses the same O2 sensor as vw's.
innovative is another good one to check out.
Any wideband o2 sensor is going to be $$$
As for boost gauge just find an autometer that suits your tastes.

The TRD s/c setup makes 5/6 pounds of boost max if stock. Can't get in much trouble with that. The OBD II is able to manage it pretty well.

 

[lastresort576]

@inkpot yeah I was looking up a fair amount of engine management stuff last night and even though I don't agree with not retuning. It seems to be the consensus that an obd2 ECU does a decent job of keeping everything where it needs to be.

 

[TEQiddiot]

@inkpot yeah I was looking up a fair amount of engine management stuff last night and even though I don't agree with not retuning. It seems to be the consensus that an obd2 ECU does a decent job of keeping everything where it needs to be.

I understand your logic on tuning, especially coming from the "tuner" community before getting into cruisers. A wideband is a great bit of insurance, as you mentioned, you will be able to monitor AFR's in changing conditions when traveling (elevation, gas grade availability, etc.).

My point here being: I doubt adjustments to timing would be necessary for a TRD Supercharger, even with the smaller pulley. A method of tuning for additional insurance could come in the form of an air flow converter. On non-vvti SR20's (2.0 turbo) I have made reliable 350-400whp tuning on an Apexi SAFC (1, 2 or NEO) and pump gas. SAFC's are cheap ($150-250), easy to find (craigslist), and can effectively produce greater power with an even safer tune, especially with a dyno. You retain your factory ECU and wire in the SAFC to piggyback. I'm sure the factory OBDII ECU does fine trimming fuel on it's own and adapting to changing conditions/constant strain, but an SAFC could be an excellent option for those who might be a bit obsessive, on a budget.

Now if you want to play with timing and are looking for greater power, out of a more complicated forced induction setup and wish to adjust timing, AEM standalone is the route I would go. Expect to shell out $1500 + in that case though.

MUD needs a boost FAQ and/or sub-fourm.

 

[scottryana]

Good luck getting a piggy back system to work on an 80, it's been tried by many. The way the 80 handles closed loop and open loop with regard to OBDII is unlike many other 90's cars. I don't know of a single person or shop that's had success. There is a guy on the forum who's had his truck at a tuner for close to 6 months as they tried to get it to work. My own truck spent 3-4 months before going standalone wired in parallel. It might work on the earlier OBDI trucks I have no experience with them.

I understand your logic on tuning, especially coming from the "tuner" community before getting into cruisers. A wideband is a great bit of insurance, as you mentioned, you will be able to monitor AFR's in changing conditions when traveling (elevation, gas grade availability, etc.).

My point here being: I doubt adjustments to timing would be necessary for a TRD Supercharger, even with the smaller pulley. A method of tuning for additional insurance could come in the form of an air flow converter. On non-vvti SR20's (2.0 turbo) I have made reliable 350-400whp tuning on an Apexi SAFC (1, 2 or NEO) and pump gas. SAFC's are cheap ($150-250), easy to find (craigslist), and can effectively produce greater power with an even safer tune, especially with a dyno. You retain your factory ECU and wire in the SAFC to piggyback. I'm sure the factory OBDII ECU does fine trimming fuel on it's own and adapting to changing conditions/constant strain, but an SAFC could be an excellent option for those who might be a bit obsessive, on a budget.

Now if you want to play with timing and are looking for greater power, out of a more complicated forced induction setup and wish to adjust timing, AEM standalone is the route I would go. Expect to shell out $1500 + in that case though.

MUD needs a boost FAQ and/or sub-fourm.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Good luck getting a piggy back system to work on an 80, it's been tried by many. The way the 80 handles closed loop and open loop with regard to OBDII is unlike many other 90's cars. I don't know of a single person or shop that's had success. There is a guy on the forum who's had his truck at a tuner for close to 6 months as they tried to get it to work. My own truck spent 3-4 months before going standalone wired in parallel. It might work on the earlier OBDI trucks I have no experience with them.

Have you tried cheating the reading of the front O2 sensor to avoid lean condition. By cheating the the sensor the fuel trim reading does increase and changes the AFR.

 

[lastresort576]

Have you tried cheating the reading of the front O2 sensor to avoid lean condition. By cheating the the sensor the fuel trim reading does increase and changes the AFR.

I was thinking something along these lines too. Possibly by way of a spark plug defouler.

 

[1973Guppie]

FWIW, I think I plan to simply bolt on the 2.8 pulley and run a snow performance meth injection maf unit, no other mods. I think that should be enough. Since the AFR is not adjustable per say in my planned setup (remember, not changing or tuning anything), then I should only really run a boost and an EGR guage, correct?

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

FWIW, I think I plan to simply bolt on the 2.8 pulley and run a snow performance meth injection maf unit, no other mods. I think that should be enough. Since the AFR is not adjustable per say in my planned setup (remember, not changing or tuning anything), then I should only really run a boost and an EGR guage, correct?

Run a EGT gauge and you will be surprised at high RPM

 

[inkpot]

I have wondered if it is possible to intercept the front Oxsensor signal and modify as needed/wanted to increase power.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I have wondered if it is possible to intercept the front Oxsensor signal and modify as needed/wanted to increase power.

yes see post #29

 

[inkpot]

Run a EGT gauge and you will be surprised at high RPM

If you are thinking in diesel terms, yea, but not so much for a gasser. I see 1400+ on long pulls like Pikes Peak but I have not found any problems with that in over 90,000 miles of driving mine this way. It also depends on where you measure the EGT. My sensor is about 2" from the head on the #1 exhaust runner.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

If you are thinking in diesel terms, yea, but not so much for a gasser. I see 1400+ on long pulls like Pikes Peak but I have not found any problems with that in over 90,000 miles of driving mine this way. It also depends on where you measure the EGT. My sensor is about 2" from the head on the #1 exhaust runner.

What is you AFR at 1400° ?

 

[inkpot]

What is you AFR at 1400° ?

Don't know, don't care at this point. It has spent a lot of time well over 4500 rpm WOT on mountains and freeway ramps and still works pretty good. Would be fun to tinker with it to get more power but I haven't even got around to installing the 2.8 pulley I bought over 2 years ago. It took me about that long to finish up my double heat shield setup.

 

[1973Guppie]

Spoke with Snow Perf this morning. Tech told me that with my setup and the 2.8 pulley that guages are not really necessary. For me less in the cab is more. I would rather not have too complicated of a system. He said I should be able to dial it in via ear and driving it for a bit. He said that guages are nice to have but not totally necessary with the setup I will have. I plan to hide the computer, rez, and pump in the back cargo panel so that when I go to smog the nozzle can be removed, wires and lines tied up under the car easily.

 

[inkpot]

yes see post #29

I was thinking something homegrown, less expensive. Way out of my pay grade, so hoping someone else could dream it up. I'm pretty stupid, especially when it comes to EE.

 

[scottryana]

Yep I have recommended it several times. Specifically in Lilevo's thread when he didn't want to go standalone and was fighting with the tuning.

Have you tried cheating the reading of the front O2 sensor to avoid lean condition. By cheating the the sensor the fuel trim reading does increase and changes the AFR.