Background:
1997 LX450
triple locked
SC'd
35" tires 4:88 gearing
hood vents
disabled aux fan
factory sub tank
91 octane
3/4? full main tank, full sub
SO I went wheeling last weekend, Texas desert, ambient temps were in the mid 90's F. out for about 30 min on some ranch roads 5-10 mph max, running 4 low unlocked, A/C on medium. 1-2 small ledges to overcome, stopped to wait on some jeeps to get up a ledge and left the rig sitting for 10? maybe 15 min? running and A/C on (heat soak?)
Started running real bad, like i had a plug wire shorting or something. about 50% reduced power trying to limp up a few rocks getting to the ledge to get out of the dry creek.
locked up the diffs and tried to get up and had zero power from the motor. Just sputtered and tried to stall. On one of the sputters i got a surge and shock loaded drive train and blew the passenger birf? Granted I did have the front locked and wheels turned, so axle breakage was kinda to be expected, shame on me.
I shut it down and opened the gas cap to vent and popped the hood on recommendation of one of the jeep guys.
Started back up and same situation sputtering ect.
Winched up the ledge and started fuel transfer from the subtank, and unplugged the hose to the charcoal can to the tank. engine got better and I was able to drive back to camp and bummed a trailer ride home.
While at camp I noticed fuel burping out of the Charcoal canister hose to tank that I had unplugged.
Some of the jeep guys were saying that the sputtering problem was vapor lock? Caused by running premuim (possibly winter formula) fuel that was boiling?
Does this sound right or do I have a problem somewhere else? (I have used search)
If this is the issue, would putting a inline fuel cooler help anything?
ON the broken axle/ birf. I haven't had time to tear it down to see exactly what is damaged, but have a pretty good idea. Been looking at replacement options, and have all but settled on RCV 30/30/30 with the RCV drive flange and ARP hub studs. Idea being to over build the weak link to possibly avoid future breaking, and have a lifetime warranty on the major parts if they do break. Searched reviews here look to have good reviews of RCV.
Is the 30/30/30 overbuilt excessively? I am not planning on hardcore crawling, but want some durability for mild>moderate occasional wheeling.
If this is not a good direction, I'm open to suggestions. Stock seems too expensive.
Thanks!
1997 LX450
triple locked
SC'd
35" tires 4:88 gearing
hood vents
disabled aux fan
factory sub tank
91 octane
3/4? full main tank, full sub
SO I went wheeling last weekend, Texas desert, ambient temps were in the mid 90's F. out for about 30 min on some ranch roads 5-10 mph max, running 4 low unlocked, A/C on medium. 1-2 small ledges to overcome, stopped to wait on some jeeps to get up a ledge and left the rig sitting for 10? maybe 15 min? running and A/C on (heat soak?)
Started running real bad, like i had a plug wire shorting or something. about 50% reduced power trying to limp up a few rocks getting to the ledge to get out of the dry creek.
locked up the diffs and tried to get up and had zero power from the motor. Just sputtered and tried to stall. On one of the sputters i got a surge and shock loaded drive train and blew the passenger birf? Granted I did have the front locked and wheels turned, so axle breakage was kinda to be expected, shame on me.
I shut it down and opened the gas cap to vent and popped the hood on recommendation of one of the jeep guys.
Started back up and same situation sputtering ect.
Winched up the ledge and started fuel transfer from the subtank, and unplugged the hose to the charcoal can to the tank. engine got better and I was able to drive back to camp and bummed a trailer ride home.
While at camp I noticed fuel burping out of the Charcoal canister hose to tank that I had unplugged.
Some of the jeep guys were saying that the sputtering problem was vapor lock? Caused by running premuim (possibly winter formula) fuel that was boiling?
Does this sound right or do I have a problem somewhere else? (I have used search)
If this is the issue, would putting a inline fuel cooler help anything?
ON the broken axle/ birf. I haven't had time to tear it down to see exactly what is damaged, but have a pretty good idea. Been looking at replacement options, and have all but settled on RCV 30/30/30 with the RCV drive flange and ARP hub studs. Idea being to over build the weak link to possibly avoid future breaking, and have a lifetime warranty on the major parts if they do break. Searched reviews here look to have good reviews of RCV.
Is the 30/30/30 overbuilt excessively? I am not planning on hardcore crawling, but want some durability for mild>moderate occasional wheeling.
If this is not a good direction, I'm open to suggestions. Stock seems too expensive.
Thanks!