MOBY DICK gets a turn ! (1 Viewer)

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All back together again.......
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A couple of days ago I decided to start into the rear bumper again. I have never been quite happy with the original build due to some issues that it had. First up was the long side swing arm. Several issues with it, including a very bad warp due to overheating it with the welder. I tried several things to take the warp out, none were successful. So I just cut off everything that was worth salvaging and made a new arm.....
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Getting the new arm sized up ....
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The new arm all welded up and bolted on. Here you can see that the second item on my list was to scrap the old can carrier . Thanks to @1MAC I will be rocking the labs ladder .
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The other big issue with the original setup is that I tried to match the tire angle to the angle of the hatch. While I like the look, there just wasn't quite enough room to fit the hi lift behind it. The solution was as simple as making a spacer out of some 5/8'' aluminum.....
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This will give me just enough space to run the jack behind the tire on diagonal.
 
I then cut out the new baseplate for the Hi-Lift. The first attempt was from 15g steel and was way to flimsy for my liking, even with the bends I had in it. I found a piece of 1/8'' plate sitting behind my work bench that was near perfect size. So I trimmed it down and made a few bends in it....
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Here's how everything looks after burn in. Only one issue left to deal with. The gussets that I welded to the upright are doing there job. However, the entire long arm seems to have some flex in it. If I push on the tire the whole assembly starts moving back and forth. There is enough play that the nut holding the Hi-Lift in place will probably contact the rear hatch under off road conditions...
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Mitch's rig "self-clearanced" the jack nut on his hatch. Doesn't hit anymore now. :)

Yeah, trying to avoid that. Getting that hatch up here from Texas, then fixing the damage FedEx did to it makes me want to keep it nice.
 
can you gusset the tire upright? I did two triangles at angle across the top of the 2x3.

I'll try to go out and get a picture at lunch.
 
can you gusset the tire upright? I did two triangles at angle across the top of the 2x3.

I'll try to go out and get a picture at lunch.

Probably the same thing I did with mine only I don't have a picture of it. Those 1/4'' triangles I made run at angle from the furthest away from the driver towards the front and sides of the rig. I can't confirm yet but I think the tube is actually deflecting due to its length and the leverage the tire carrier is able to put on it.
 
Is your hi-lift doubling as a HAM antenna too :) Looks like the angle has it ready to catch trees. Mitch has the 60" too and we have it at an angle that just barely clears the side of the ladder and ends at the same height. Don't have any good pics on my phone.

The square tube arm is flexing on Mitch's and in hindsight I'd have gone 2x3 like u. Doesn't move much until u really get the rig bouncing up a ledge.

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Lunchtime in front of chipotle

I have very little flex on my wheel with basically the same set up as yours
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Seems like a lot of movement. Can you identify where the flex is coming from? Is that with the two arms clamped together?
 
Seems like a lot of movement. Can you identify where the flex is coming from? Is that with the two arms clamped together?

Yeah its quite a bit. I think I will attach something to the end of the bar to let me see if that's where it is flexing. Other option will be to make a brace that attaches from the upright down the face of the 2x3.
 
Yes, equal.
 
I figured out where the movement was coming from. Turns out its actually moving at the spindle. Or I should say its the bumper shell flexing and allowing the movement to travel up through the spindle and into the carrier. I've noticed this with several of the labs bumpers actually. Perhaps @4x4labs will address this in there future kits with some type of box gusset to go into the shell at the corners. In any case I will eventually get time to whip something up. I will probably also brace at the 1/3 mark on either side of the receiver in order to mitigate flex along that surface as well.
 

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