Builds Mike's disaster of a landcruiser project, 1992 "big red" (1 Viewer)

[Technician1985]

Yesterday I attempted to adjust the valves using the 'while running' method. Despite understanding what I'm doing, I had great difficulty adjusting the valves while they were moving up and down. I gave up on that method and let the engine cool off overnight.

Today after work I ran the engine shortly to hear the crappy idle, then I shut it off and re-adjusted the valves using the FSM procedure, except with with .40mm and .25mm clearances to account for the cold engine. I then replaced the cap and rotor with new DENSO and put it back together. I'm leaving out the part where I struggled with the valve cover and gasket for an embarrassingly long time. If you attempt to do this, try to be in a patient state of mind.

Now it still sounds like a UPS truck but it's definitely smoother sounding and the ticks are less harsh. This weekend I'm going to drain and refill the rear diff, add moly to the front birfs, attempt to fix the speedometer once and for all, and possibly install the snorkel if I have enough time.

Side note: I seem to be getting better gas mileage than expected but I need to fix the speedometer to know for sure. I'm guessing 14-15. Here are a few pics of my premium deluxe interior. Note the single din Alpine with the missing volume knob, partially spraypainted gold and mahogany nardi steering wheel, and sketchy factory alarm system.

 

[Technician1985]

Great work, man. What an endeavor.

Nice job getting it up and running. I would be hesitant to take on a project of this size right now, so I applaud you.

I'm digging the e36 as well. I grew up around BMWs (dad had an e28, then e36, now e46 330i ZHP), and my daily for the last 10 years (until I started the engine rebuild - and the reason I bought a Cruiser) is a 1972 2002tii.

Great to see you've brought it back to being an operating vehicle. I haven't attempted to do an engine swap with a motor as big as what's in an 80/lx450 but I'm prepared to face the challenge as you have!

Thanks for the kind words, it has been a lot more work than I thought it would be!

sunrk if I can do it you can as well, especially since I was drinking beer most of the time.

 

[Technician1985]

 

[Technician1985]

 

[sunrk]

That looks like a lovely crack right the way across the windscreen. Hope you can get that sorted out ASAP.

Hardest issue with my 80 is the lack of any flat/level area to do big jobs. Where I live has a carport high enough to get the 80 under, but the concrete is sloped down about 5 degrees and a degree or two sideways so hoist is difficult to use holding/supporting a heavy object as it'll want to run down the grade of the slope.

 

[Technician1985]

Yeah a new windshield is high on my list of priorities. At least the concrete slab I have to work on is pretty level. Sure would be nice to have a big garage or a shop though.

 

[Technician1985]

Took it on its longest drive so far. Drove down then up a pretty ridiculous ditch. It's not perfect but it runs and drives decently. The 32" tires are starting to look small to me...

 

[Technician1985]

Today I replaced the alternator with a remanufactured NipponDenso unit, finished replacing the battery ground wires, fusible link, and battery terminals. Voltage is higher now - it was suspiciously low before. If nothing else, I can say that my s*** is well grounded.

Drained the coolant and replaced the temporary lower radiator hose with the metal mid-section pipe that it was supposed to have. Going to add even more grease to the knuckles once the truck cools down... I still don't see any coming out of the felt seals but besides that everything seems fine and the wheel bearings passed the 12/6 test.

I'm still having a peculiar brake pulsing that I'm pretty sure is coming from the back brakes or wheel bearings. I'm afraid of what I'm going to find when I look around back there.

The other day I thought the speedometer healed itself once and for all after jiggling on the cable. It died again the next time I drove. I jiggled and pulled on the cable again today and we'll see what happens. I'm starting to think I'll need to take it apart. There's also an electrical connection down on the transfer case that might have something to do with it, not sure yet.

Towards the top of my to-do list is to acquire a spare tire. I have two 31" tires that are cracked and awful so I need to find a safe 32" tire to match what I have. I have NO IDEA how the spare tire thing works so that should be interesting to figure out.

I'm still in the "hope it doesn't break" phase of ownership but so far it seems fine despite making some interesting noises. The FJ80 definitely has some "character" compared to more refined cars. It's noisier and clunker than I expected it to be but from what I gather that's normal... lol...

 

[BILT4ME]

The 32" tires are starting to look small to me...

And there it is! The point we have ALL been waiting for!


This is that point where you have officially given in, and committed your wallet to a lifetime of emptiness........

Oh, but if I just add a ..........
then it will be what I want........
Then I can do a ..........
THEN it will be what I want.......
and right after that, I will do.........

and then
and then
and then
and then.......

Glad you got it going!

Good Luck!

Follow the Tools R Us method for the front wheel bearings. Definitely better than the FSM version.

 

[Technician1985]

Finally figured out how to use the factory spare tire lift. Until today I didn't know what the hole in the bumper was for! I guess mine isn't that rusty because it moves up and down fine especially after lubricating with TRIFLO. Of course I don't have the stock tool, so I found a long 3/8 extension and an extra 15MM socket, then drilled and tapped a 1/4-20 hole through the socket and threaded in a bolt. Now I can use the tire lift. I put my sketchy 31" tire in there because it's better than nothing, except I don't have the factory jack either. So I drove to harbor freight (yeah I know) to get a bottle jack. Now I need to find or make a jack attachment that helps stabilize it while it lifts the axle.

I also fixed one of the sketchiest (imo) noises it made, a very noticeable metallic whirring/grinding coming from the transfer case area. That turned out to be the exhaust resting on the frame and vibrating. I made a "custom" rear exhaust hanger that helped level out the exhaust system and now the truck sounds a lot less crusty.

I took out the back seats in preparation for camping. The plan is to sleep in the back. I kind of want to build a sleeping platform, but on the other hand it would be easy to throw everything I need back there and there would still be plenty of room to sleep. I am used to packing light for bike touring so I can't foresee needing to load the whole thing up, but we'll see. Leaving in less than 2 weeks to drive to Yellowstone! A bit scary, but I'm confident in ol' krusty.

CB radio install will happen soon.

 

[Technician1985]

Fantastic news! I sprayed electrical contact cleaner in the window switches on the driver's side, and now my passenger side front window rolls up and down! Even using the pass side switch... I figured it would need a window regulator. It does roll up a little slow though.

In other news I installed the CB radio which of course was an ordeal. It didn't seem like there was enough room remaining in the stereo DIN slot and I couldn't think of a good place to put it, so this is what I came up with. Stupidly I forgot to take into account the center console lid but it still opens most of the way. For mounting the antenna I made a bracket out of a piece of metal I found and it seems to work.



[url=https://flic.kr/p/KXnGSo]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/KXnGVE]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/KXnGZY] [/url][/url][/url]

 

[Biggreener]

Just read thru the whole thread--nice job man. Especially the outdoor complete engine swap in "tent city." Is that a Badland's front bumper you went with?

And since it's been a while since we've seen any bimmer pics, here's two of mine:

'99 M Coupe 5 speed

'98 Dakar Yellow M3 5 speed

 

[Technician1985]

Just read thru the whole thread--nice job man. Especially the outdoor complete engine swap in "tent city." Is that a Badland's front bumper you went with?

And since it's been a while since we've seen any bimmer pics, here's two of mine:

'99 M Coupe 5 speed
View attachment 1720712

'98 Dakar Yellow M3 5 speed
View attachment 1720713

Great car choices! The bumper is trail gear.

 

[Technician1985]

So I started messing with the speedometer. I checked my codes and got a 42 "Vehicle speed sensor (VSS) -circuit". VSS. The speedo cable is snapped, lol. Wondering if the sensor is also bad... not sure how to test it at this point although I've removed it for the time being.

My other code is 28: "Heated oxygen sensor (H02S) 2 circuit". It looks impossible to replace the damned things while they're on the car, which is dumb because I have two new denso sensors here! Not sure what I'm going to do.

I isolated the loudest ticking noise the engine makes, finally. It's DEFINITELY coming from the fuel rail or something connected to it (an injector perhaps). You can feel the tick while touching the rail. I'm not sure what this means exactly but I think I should take my injectors off the old engine and have them cleaned and flow matched, then put them on this motor.

I'm going to start ohm testing anything I can through the diagnostic box and compare to the FSM, when I have time.

THIS WEEKEND I'm going to drive to Yellowstone (from WA state!) so fingers crossed I don't run into trouble!

 

[Technician1985]

Been a long time since an update.

1.) Drove the truck to Yellowstone from WA and drove around Yellowstone for a week. The truck made it just fine and even averaged 15MPG for the trip!

2.) I've been having intermittent hard hot starts. I recently came to discover that I neglected to install the VSV that helps starting by equalizing pressure in the FPR. I reinstalled that setup and it's better, although today it took a couple tries to start after it was hot. I also cleaned the cold start injector but I seem to start on the first key turn after the truck's been sitting. After more research I am starting to think the FPR itself isn't working right, so I'm going to try a new one and see how that works out (I may have found a source for a new DENSO). I might replace my fuel pump and sock for good measure as well. Will update when this is all done.

3.) I installed the newer style thicker drive flanges because my old ones had some slop. Now most of the slop is gone. I also had to re-adjust my passenger side wheel bearing, again.

4.) Next on the menu is re-installing the AC system since it's hot out, and I'm looking into options for an electric AUX fan that will fit over the trans cooler and help out when the AC is running on hot days. I am also interested in hood vents as others have done so, but I'm starting to wonder if just popping the hood near the cowl (remember the JDM hood pop?) would be a good and reversible option.

 

[Technician1985]

1.) Today I installed a new fuel pump and strainer. New denso strainer and pump. Was cheap and easy (got a good deal on parts). I don't know if my hot start issues have anything to do with the check valve in the pump but we'll see, at any rate I figured it was good preventative maintenance given the mileage and age.

2.) Last week I installed a new denso FPR as a maintenance item / attept to fix the hot starting issue but it didn't seem to make a difference. Turns out you can order an aftermarket FPR for an old camry and they send you a denso that happens to fit on the 3F-E, and it was only $60, win!

3.) I had to take out the aftermarket steering wheel because the hub adapter has too much slop. Eventually the nut holding the wheel on loosened enough that there was significant play between the splines. I figured I don't want to randomly lose my steering, so I put the stock wheel back in instead of spending $$$ for a higher quality hub adapter. I like the bigger diameter steering wheel anyway and honestly it looks less ghetto, so I'll probably just leave it.

4.) I put in some barr's rear main seal stop leak. The internet says it works, we'll see. I have some drippage going that's not too bad but it's leaking onto the swaybar and it appears to have ruined the bushings. I should have replaced the seals when I had the motor out but I didn't want to mess with it at the time (hindsight).

5.) I need to get bolts to mount the tow hitch so I can use a trailer. Need to make a dump run here soon!

6.) Something is wrong with the rear brakes, I have new shoes but I haven't ordered drums yet. I will get to that at some point.

7.) Still need to install the AC.

 

[80Greg100]

Another long-time LC/BMW fan - great thread BTW! Mine have included:

- 1989 325iX - white 2 door automatic
- 2002 325xi - orient blue wagon, AWD, 5 speed manual - uncommon combo
- 2013 Z4 - black on black, 7 spd DCT.
- 2002 330xi, 4 door 5 speed manual. Car had sat for years, I bought it cheap, 18 months to resurrect, and then last November drove it from NH to Montana to San Diego. Graduation present for my oldest son. Never even threw a code!
- 2001 325i, 4 door auto RWD. Youngest son driving this over the summer, borrowed from FIL. Surprisingly fun car!
- 1997 F650 Funduro dual sport adventure bike - currently working on this one right now...

 

[Technician1985]

Not much new but I've done a little maintenance to it. New denso FPD, NGK plug wires. Changed the oil. Added the hitch mount so now I can tow things.

Went wheeling!

 

[Technician1985]

Also I want to note* mostly for myself/future reference* that I may have "fixed" the hot start issue.

Turns out the cold start injector timer switch/sensor works in the following way: When the contact is closed it sends a signal to the ECU (ground switching on the Toyota). One wire gets grounded and signals the ECU, the other wire is sent a +12v while the engine is cranking, which heats the sensor and breaks the connection so that it doesn't flood the engine . When the sensor is hot it does basically the same thing as when the sensor is heated from the electrical resistance. When the sensor is cold the contact is closed.

I think my timer switch may be bad, but at any rate, at the moment I have a switch inside the truck that will ground the ECU side of the connector and so far, forcing the cold start injector to fire when it's been sitting/warm, has allowed it to start every time on the first try.

At some point I will test the resistance of the cold start timer to see if that's actually the problem or not (I should have done this by now, but I was more concerned about it actually starting instead of trying 6 times). It's either that or I have a lean condition after the truck has been sitting for 1+ hour and I attempt to restart it. I have been advised to check the fuel pressure and I have not done so yet.

For some reason this issue has been driving me crazy even though it does eventually start every time! Eventually I will make it work the way the factory intended rather than my hack job, which does work

That particular sensor costs about $100 by the way, so I want to be totally sure I need one before ordering it. I have an FJ60 one but it has a different plug!

Something is still going on with the rear brakes. I have new shoes and soon I will order new drums and hardware.

 

[F80FJ]

So much BMW love! Check out these hips!