Builds Mid Life Adventure 2010 LX570 (2 Viewers)

[TeCKis300]

Question, How big a tire can I run without doing fender mods? Wheel spacers are fine.

As big as you want! Fender mods not necessary with the right offsets. Details for 35x12.5 in sig in you're interested.

You can go even taller trading some width for more height. Check out @grinchy 's build with a 275/80R18

Builds - The Guzzler - 2009 LX570

Just a thread for my LX build. Six weeks in I can see this project was misnamed. We call it the Guzzler. Seems to like Gas and Cash. A lot. I started with a 209,000 mile black on tan LX570, created in 8/2008 for model year 2009. Oddities include 20" non Lexus chromed wheels, and a dealer...

forum.ih8mud.com

BTW, fine looking rig you got there!

 

[tbisaacs]

Question, How big a tire can I run without doing fender mods? Wheel spacers are fine.

I just recently went to a 295

295/70/18 is a tire size that you should consider*

* for your LX After nearly 15k miles running 275/70/18 Cooper STT Pros — I've concluded that I'm not a mud terrain kind of person. But that's another story. Today I installed (5) 295/70/18 Falken Wildpeak AT3W's on my LX and they fit like a glove. Seriously, I don't know why this size isn't...

forum.ih8mud.com

Easy-peasy

 

[grinchy]

Which big are you after? Tall? fat? or both?

 

[raincityrider]

Which big are you after? Tall? fat? or both?

Not really sure just starting to think. I just want biggest and widest w/o mods.

 

[grinchy]

@tbisaacs has a good fit with the 295/70r18. Pretty wide, pretty tall, common size with lots of choices.

getting into the 35x12.5” wide a body mount chop is probably necessary.

the 35 I run is narrow, so no bmc required but it is an odd size so not much choice of tread.

If you go to 17” there are a couple 34 and 35x11 options that will fit without a bmc.

 

[raincityrider]

@tbisaacs has a good fit with the 295/70r18. Pretty wide, pretty tall, common size with lots of choices.

getting into the 35x12.5” wide a body mount chop is probably necessary.

the 35 I run is narrow, so no bmc required but it is an odd size so not much choice of tread.

If you go to 17” there are a couple 34 and 35x11 options that will fit without a bmc.

Kinda don't want to buy new Wheels. Maybe doing what @tbisaacs has would be best.

 

[raincityrider]

So, I spent Monday installing the Dissent rear bumper. Unfortunately the current walk through, by @radman which is amazing and thorough, has a step that is not necessary for the current version of the Dissent rear bumper and cost me 2-3 hours. Half of the waste was due to the mfg of the tap and bit set I bought packaging the wrong tap in the sealed package and me having to drive to swap to the correct tap. Long Story Long, If you buy a current rear bumper you DO NOT need to drill and tap the holes in the rear bumper on each side of the receiver. There is not a mount point there on the current version of the Dissent rear bumper.

My other hiccup was when installing the swing arm mounting points. I used the third hole on the outside used to align the internal nut plates to the external holes in the bumper wings. I had bolts in all 4 holes thinking this would align the holes properly. But they did not. I would say center the nut plates or even justify them to the top. The justifying to the top may change on Monday when I hopefully finish the install. And install the front and get some wiring done.

Thanks to radman for all of his work!

 

[grinchy]

Sweet!

 

[radman]

I used the third hole on the outside used to align the internal nut plates to the external holes in the bumper wings. I had bolts in all 4 holes thinking this would align the holes properly. But they did not

Dang. You mean the swingarm hinge mount didn't align with the captive nut plates when you used the 3rd hole to align? I remember having to expand the hinge holes (with a die grinder) a little so the bolts would align. If you justify too high, your swingarm might not sit properly on the striker plate.

How did you feel about swapping in the new AHC mount?

 

[raincityrider]

Dang. You mean the swingarm hinge mount didn't align with the captive nut plates when you used the 3rd hole to align? I remember having to expand the hinge holes (with a die grinder) a little so the bolts would align. If you justify too high, your swingarm might not sit properly on the striker plate.

How did you feel about swapping in the new AHC mount?

No, both Pass and Drivr side inside holes are too low and bolts will not even start. I figure 30-45 min each side and I can sort it out. I will post and reach out if I have questions. I will def pay attention to strike plates. Hope I can get it in one more try and don't need to do it a third or fourth time. What kinda clearance do you have on the strike plates? Pics?

As far as the AHC mount........F*#K that third nut on the back. I got it loose enough with a wrench them uses a flat head to turn it till it would pass the stock mount. Then I was really happy I am an octopus and used my 8 arms to easily swap them out and finish the install on the new mount.

 

[raincityrider]

Dang. You mean the swingarm hinge mount didn't align with the captive nut plates when you used the 3rd hole to align? I remember having to expand the hinge holes (with a die grinder) a little so the bolts would align. If you justify too high, your swingarm might not sit properly on the striker plate.

How did you feel about swapping in the new AHC mount?

The third hole is with in a hair of spot on.

 

[radman]

What kinda clearance do you have on the strike plates?

Set the arm down in the closed position. The plastic VHD (very high density something..) should sit flat on the striker plate, and the hinge side should sit in the hex hole opening. At that point, everything should be pretty much aligned to bolt on.
Take a straight on pic to show that alignment?

 

[raincityrider]

Set the arm down in the closed position. The plastic VHD (very high density something..) should sit flat on the striker plate, and the hinge side should sit in the hex hole opening. At that point, everything should be pretty much aligned to bolt on.
Take a straight on pic to show that alignment?

Yeah, a straight on pic. I think that might help.

 

[raincityrider]

@radman
Hey I think you said in your thread that you wired to the stock fog light harness. Did this work there are some bits in the harness that came with my lights and I don't know if i need them or not.

Or maybe @1world1love knows.

 

[1world1love]

@radman
Hey I think you said in your thread that you wired to the stock fog light harness. Did this work there are some bits in the harness that came with my lights and I don't know if i need them or not.

Or maybe @1world1love knows.
View attachment 2791782

Since you are wiring into the existing fog harness, you won't need much of the additional hardware. I assume that there is a relay (what you are holding) and a switch, but you really only need to splice in directly to the existing harness. I wish I could offer more guidance there but Ben wired that up. I do think that there are many threads on here about how exactly to do it (ie where best to splice in, etc).

 

[1world1love]

Looks like @kcjaz did this as well.

Adding lights to fog light switch

So I've got an order in the works for the Offroad Animal Toro front bumper: It will be here in about 6 weeks. I'll be getting the embedded LED light strip that runs almost as low as the fog lights. I will not be getting the round driving lights over the grille. My SwitchPros is saturated...

forum.ih8mud.com

He ran into something that you are also likely to run into, which is that the draw of the new fogs will exceed the draw of the OEM lights. In that case, you will need to keep the relay and wire that in to an appropriate fused source. Then you can splice the switched power into the existing harness.

 

[1world1love]

Here is the end of another discussion about it:

TJM T13 Fog Lights

I finally got the TJM fog and turn signal light kit for my T13 on my 2013 200 series. The fog lights keep blowing the 7.5 amp OEM fuse. The TJM fog lights came with a wiring harness but they plugged right into the OEM connectors used on the old OEM lights. I just plugged them in and didn't...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[raincityrider]

Since you are wiring into the existing fog harness, you won't need much of the additional hardware. I assume that there is a relay (what you are holding) and a switch, but you really only need to splice in directly to the existing harness. I wish I could offer more guidance there but Ben wired that up. I do think that there are many threads on here about how exactly to do it (ie where best to splice in, etc).

I cant find where someone said which wire is pos and neg.

 

[1world1love]

I cant find where someone said which wire is pos and neg.

Do you mean on the oem harness or the lights? Are these the rigid?

 

[raincityrider]

They are rigid. I mean the OEM. Green and white.