- Thread starter
- #221
I never found one! I kind of still want one though. I'm looking forward to seeing yours come to fruition though.
Mercedes OM606 turbo Diesel 80 series Land Cruiser (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter LandCruisinMy93
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Thanks! I’ll definitely post some pics. I’m going to get them reupholstered while I’m going through the interior. Got a lot of stuff to do- refresh doors and windows and add sound deadening, swapping steering wheel, clean up some crappy wiring from PO, and put LED in the interior dash and lights. Then get her back together in time to do an engine swap- that’s what led me to you. Lol.
- Thread starter
- #224
It sounds like we both have a problem leaving good enough alone, Lol.
- Thread starter
- #225
Well, it took me 10 years, but I finally finished the Monstaliner in my door jambs. I had lost the last bit of the gallon when I did the truck initially so I had to do a quick remask to utilize what I had left in my pan. It didn't look awful to those who aren't really car people. But it looked uninspiring and half-a**ed to OCD people like me.
Anyway, I had some rust spots forming in my jambs as there are a lot of scratches and paint chips etc...not sure how, but they existed.
First I removed the rear doors, front and back kick plates, pillar trim etc.. I then cleaned, degreased, ran a string line from front to rear across the original liner path and marked with a pencil. Then I used a level, flexible stainless ruler and scribe to mark about 1/8" below the intended line. I then used 1/4" automotive pin striping tape at the pencil line to mark out final layer. I applied 2" automotive masking tape to that line. Then I sanded and wiped it down with acetone. I then applied pin stripe and tape to the scribe line; and masked the rest of everything with tape and paper. I rolled on magnet paints Epoxy primer to everything under the scribe line.
While the second layer of magnet Epoxy primer cured I began stirring the individual components of the 1 quart kit I purchased for the jambs. Then I mixed the kit and let it kick off for 20 minutes. I rolled the first layer, allowed it to cure 40 minutes and removed the scribe line tape. After an hour and a half total time I rolled the second coat starting with using the block and dabbing in the top edges on the driver front working around the truck toward the rear and ending in the passenger front jamb. Then I rolled the jambs in the same order. The thought being to allow the tops to tack a little and help soften the transitions.
Anyway, final product below.
Anyway, I had some rust spots forming in my jambs as there are a lot of scratches and paint chips etc...not sure how, but they existed.
First I removed the rear doors, front and back kick plates, pillar trim etc.. I then cleaned, degreased, ran a string line from front to rear across the original liner path and marked with a pencil. Then I used a level, flexible stainless ruler and scribe to mark about 1/8" below the intended line. I then used 1/4" automotive pin striping tape at the pencil line to mark out final layer. I applied 2" automotive masking tape to that line. Then I sanded and wiped it down with acetone. I then applied pin stripe and tape to the scribe line; and masked the rest of everything with tape and paper. I rolled on magnet paints Epoxy primer to everything under the scribe line.
While the second layer of magnet Epoxy primer cured I began stirring the individual components of the 1 quart kit I purchased for the jambs. Then I mixed the kit and let it kick off for 20 minutes. I rolled the first layer, allowed it to cure 40 minutes and removed the scribe line tape. After an hour and a half total time I rolled the second coat starting with using the block and dabbing in the top edges on the driver front working around the truck toward the rear and ending in the passenger front jamb. Then I rolled the jambs in the same order. The thought being to allow the tops to tack a little and help soften the transitions.
Anyway, final product below.
- Thread starter
- #226
I also added the Factor 55 offset Hawse fairlead rope spindle and ultrahook. I used the factor 55 fast fid to untie the original thimble and splice the spool on.
I also went through and added anti-tamper nuts to hold the winch and fairlead and replaced all of the SAE stuff on the Rigid lights with metric anti-tamper torx and a metric anti-tamper nut and carriage bolt. You'd think with the cost of Rigid products that they would give you anti-theft, anti-tamper hardware. It's pretty disappointing. I applied some green high strength loctite as well. If they want the lights they'll have to take the mirror or saw them off.
I also finished the Tiny Tach PZO and Dakota Digital setup. I Resin 3d printed a bracket to hold the PZO amp. I know how some folks hate 3d prints on cars. Because of how grainy and clunky they look.
I also went through and added anti-tamper nuts to hold the winch and fairlead and replaced all of the SAE stuff on the Rigid lights with metric anti-tamper torx and a metric anti-tamper nut and carriage bolt. You'd think with the cost of Rigid products that they would give you anti-theft, anti-tamper hardware. It's pretty disappointing. I applied some green high strength loctite as well. If they want the lights they'll have to take the mirror or saw them off.
I also finished the Tiny Tach PZO and Dakota Digital setup. I Resin 3d printed a bracket to hold the PZO amp. I know how some folks hate 3d prints on cars. Because of how grainy and clunky they look.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #227
The only other update I have at the moment is that I was going to have my rear bumper blasted and then spray it in Raptor liner. And then I started taping up some modifications and that led to a redesign.
It was supposed to be a formed main body and formed ends but ended up being individual keyed components because Send Cut Send can't do the main body due to size, OshCut couldn't bend the body due to collision hazard with the press and the wings/ends would have required jigs and tooling to be made to bend which would have made the end cost WAY too much.
The main body and wings are .188" A36 HRPO and has an inside support piece 2½" back from the face, the front corners have .250 A36 HRPO braces that support the bottom of the double shear spindles and reinforce the corners.
The top of the wing is capped in .188" A36 and welded, then a separate .250" piece bolts to that and extends out to support the top of the double shear spindles.
I modeled up some Baja Desigs S2 flush mount combos to put in to replace backup lights. Then I added in Hi-Lift points, step buckets, a tow receiver that I still have to design the bracing for and lastly, recovery points made of 1" A36 HRPO.
The recovery point will have 1 side bolt completely through, the other side bolt hole couldn't be cut as it was too thin at the bottom so it became a horseshoe notch. It will get 2 smaller bolts up front and I will pocket drill it so the lower frame bolts will stick into it. Pretty sure that ought to be sufficient for recovery in the event I get stuck.
I haven't decided on the build out of the swing outs yet. Going down in tire size is still the plan so I need to find a tire that is a true 36" or close and then I will add stuff, like a Jerry can holder and maxtrax, ladder or whatever. Meanwhile I have two 4xInnovations bearing ride double shear spindle kits. It's a 4" spindle but due to self imposed design constraints 1" will be sunken into the bumper. So the swing out main body will be 3" tall. I could have pushed the bumper out further instead of making it tight in like the last bumper but decided against it. I'm not looking forward to welding and grinding the 34 pieces but I'm hoping it turns out decent.
It was supposed to be a formed main body and formed ends but ended up being individual keyed components because Send Cut Send can't do the main body due to size, OshCut couldn't bend the body due to collision hazard with the press and the wings/ends would have required jigs and tooling to be made to bend which would have made the end cost WAY too much.
The main body and wings are .188" A36 HRPO and has an inside support piece 2½" back from the face, the front corners have .250 A36 HRPO braces that support the bottom of the double shear spindles and reinforce the corners.
The top of the wing is capped in .188" A36 and welded, then a separate .250" piece bolts to that and extends out to support the top of the double shear spindles.
I modeled up some Baja Desigs S2 flush mount combos to put in to replace backup lights. Then I added in Hi-Lift points, step buckets, a tow receiver that I still have to design the bracing for and lastly, recovery points made of 1" A36 HRPO.
The recovery point will have 1 side bolt completely through, the other side bolt hole couldn't be cut as it was too thin at the bottom so it became a horseshoe notch. It will get 2 smaller bolts up front and I will pocket drill it so the lower frame bolts will stick into it. Pretty sure that ought to be sufficient for recovery in the event I get stuck.
I haven't decided on the build out of the swing outs yet. Going down in tire size is still the plan so I need to find a tire that is a true 36" or close and then I will add stuff, like a Jerry can holder and maxtrax, ladder or whatever. Meanwhile I have two 4xInnovations bearing ride double shear spindle kits. It's a 4" spindle but due to self imposed design constraints 1" will be sunken into the bumper. So the swing out main body will be 3" tall. I could have pushed the bumper out further instead of making it tight in like the last bumper but decided against it. I'm not looking forward to welding and grinding the 34 pieces but I'm hoping it turns out decent.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #228
Oh boy, packages are trickling in. I had the frame brackets mixed up in my file folder so they were bent the opposite way so I'm waiting in the correct brackets and 1 recovery point. Somehow the recovery points only have a shackle hole in them so I will have to drill the side holes. I think it is because oshcuts interface is rather confusing if you haven't really used it before. It took quite a bit of messing around to understand it all.
Last edited:
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
- Thread starter
- #230
Thanks! I'm just hoping it looks half-decent once it's all welded up and ground down.
I'm still a novice with the CAD stuff. I have a lot to learn but I'm fortunate to have started using Fusion 360 several years ago as they have a huge support group and YouTube has videos on just about everything you can think of when it comes to designing in Fusion. I stand by "It's never too late to learn CAD" it is a very useful tool...especially for DIY and tinker-types.
I just wish I could get 1 decent 3d scanner that I could get usable scans from. It would be really nice not to have to measure and do iterative modeling to get decent quality finished products.
- Thread starter
- #232
just returned my revopoint mini. Yet another scanner that wasn't good for much as you said. I am thinking of just ordering and trying out an Einscan.
Last edited:
Hey @LandCruisinMy93,
I love the build so far! I'll be honest, I skimmed a good bit of it, but it doesn't appear that you've done the regear you were talking about. Is that because you are looking to downsize on tires and don't think you'll need it now? Also, how has it been to drive once you got things mostly sorted, even on the 40s? I was thinking something like a 33-35 might be about perfect, but I'd love to see what you've learned on that front!
I love the build so far! I'll be honest, I skimmed a good bit of it, but it doesn't appear that you've done the regear you were talking about. Is that because you are looking to downsize on tires and don't think you'll need it now? Also, how has it been to drive once you got things mostly sorted, even on the 40s? I was thinking something like a 33-35 might be about perfect, but I'd love to see what you've learned on that front!
- Thread starter
- #234
honestly, I don't recall wanting to do a regear or having the intention to. However, it has been a LONG time project. I am still thinking of going back to the factory radius arm setup and downsizing the tires. That isn't really a priority for me though, I hardly ever drive it anymore. My job had me working hours from home and I needed a truck for work. I ended up with my 21 Tundra. Then I decided I need to sell that after I got another Sequoia. I drive my Sequoia everywhere.
At this point I'm just not inclined to take the cruiser further. My Sequoia is far more comfortable and roomier; and I don't do much in the way of off-roading like I used to. I have taken the Sequoia down some nasty "roads" with deep-ish watery, muddy, rocky areas. It does what I want. The fuel economy is terrible, but it does everything else. I do occasionally drive the cruiser though. It does decent even without gearing and being on 40's. You're definitely not taking it through california on the 5 or the 84 through Idaho, but it does pretty decent at 70 and under. I don't really drive fast anyway, it's just not my thing anymore. I'm sure fuel economy would be even better on 33-35's, but I really just don't see it taking the place of my sequoia outside of being my back-up for when I do repairs or modifications to the Sequoia,
Fantastic writeup, I've probably read through it 2 or 3 times over the last couple months! I'm about to start gathering parts for my own OM606 swap into my 80 series. DieselPumpUK makes an adapter/clutch kit so we can now use an H15X or R15X gearbox. I love the idea of using a mechanical pump and manual gearbox to keep it as simple as possible.
