- Thread starter
- #201
I'm aware. I plan to replace the whole swaybar, links and extensions.
Mercedes OM606 turbo Diesel 80 series Land Cruiser
- Thread starter LandCruisinMy93
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #202
It is just a mishimoto can plumbed to the pcv and from the air filter housing. The idea is that the air being pulled through creates a slight draft to help evacuate the crankcase gasses seems to work.
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- Thread starter
- #203
I don't know how it sounds. I haven't fully installed it yet. I have sound deadening to add to the back of the cruiser to match what I did in the rest of it along with plumbing of the ARB etc... I haven't touched it since running the rear power due to having the nerves burned out of my lower back. It's not a big sub and it's in its own cast aluminum housing, the mount is welded 16 gauge stainless and doesn't really flex much. I may wrap it in sound deadener to help with any vibration noise the compressor may make. Honestly I'm not concerned it's not meant to sound like a premium sound system, it was meant to replace the rotted one that was there.
I will report back when it's fully installed.
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I have the same compressor mounted to a janky aluminum plate inside the cargo area, and yes it is loud. BUT, it only goes on for a couple of seconds when I turn on my lockers so it isn't a huge deal. It is mostly running when I am airing up, and I'm not in the cab, so noise isn't an issue. It'd probably be very obnoxious if you were sitting inside while airing up.
- Thread starter
- #205
Well, this finally happened. I've had sound deadening and carpet for this half of the cruiser just sitting around waiting for install since I did the initial motor swap. And finally I have installed it.
- Thread starter
- #206
Gratuitous sound deadening coverage.
And some wheel well carpets. I have the rear carpet weighed down at the moment to help the pad adhere to the back. Hopefully when I go to the shop today I will finish it out. I also installed a relay for the back up lights where the old seat belt was. Don't know who or why but someone cut the rear belts before me.
And some wheel well carpets. I have the rear carpet weighed down at the moment to help the pad adhere to the back. Hopefully when I go to the shop today I will finish it out. I also installed a relay for the back up lights where the old seat belt was. Don't know who or why but someone cut the rear belts before me.
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- Thread starter
- #207
And while I was finishing up I installed the new Hatch lift springs. I have a pair for the hood I will likely get to today, maybe even the new hood insulator. I should have the last of the missing interior clips for the dash, right rear quarter panel; and the T-nuts for the rear steps and front kick panels from Toyota today. It will be the first time since owning the cruiser that it's had the T-nuts for the front kick panels and the first time since the front carpet Install that it will have the rear steps installed. I've found throughout the ears that the interior is shy on clips here and there and there are broken pockets where clips where. I plan on printing some plugs to glue in to those broken pockets at some point but they're not necessary so it will be a long term project goal.
Viola! All that is left is the tailgate carpet and I will get to that this summer when I hopefully can find a few hours of free time to replace the door cards. Have the cards...just not trying to dig into that yet. However, I will print some speaker adapters when that time comes as well as Install my rigid ditch lights.
Viola! All that is left is the tailgate carpet and I will get to that this summer when I hopefully can find a few hours of free time to replace the door cards. Have the cards...just not trying to dig into that yet. However, I will print some speaker adapters when that time comes as well as Install my rigid ditch lights.
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- Thread starter
- #208
Meanwhile, wrapping the project up for the winter at least. I will be installing the whiteline HD rear sway bar sitting here, as well as, having some more bracket stuff made by Send Cut Send.
Nothing all that special, just some simple stuff like a mount for the ARB air chuck bracket for the front bumper. I have it designed and ready to send but wanted to print and test fit a prototype. Simple bracket with threads printed in. I have the proper taps and will have the holes laser cut into the bracket.
I will likely design and make some ditch light brackets. I made the originals form 6061 T6 after making cardboard templates and bending them in a vise. They don't look bad, but I can do better. I will prototype those as well and have them made eventually.
Nothing all that special, just some simple stuff like a mount for the ARB air chuck bracket for the front bumper. I have it designed and ready to send but wanted to print and test fit a prototype. Simple bracket with threads printed in. I have the proper taps and will have the holes laser cut into the bracket.
I will likely design and make some ditch light brackets. I made the originals form 6061 T6 after making cardboard templates and bending them in a vise. They don't look bad, but I can do better. I will prototype those as well and have them made eventually.
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- Thread starter
- #209
A little front end goodness. New hood springs, insulator and clips installed. Quite a difference in lift having new springs. Cold days I would get clobbered by the hood so I installed a hood prop. Hopefully I wont be needing that for a few years.
Oh, she's coming along boys. She's coming along.
Oh, she's coming along boys. She's coming along.
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tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Looks nice in the engine bay man
- Thread starter
- #211
Thank you. I'm trying to get it all cleaned up and neat looking.
- Thread starter
- #212
Matt, It is probably a combination of sound deadening, heavy welded stainless sheet metal and the fact the sub I chose comes in a cast aluminum housing but it sounds pretty good to me... I'm not an audiophile and I'm about half deaf but it doesn't rattle or have a sheet metal reverb noise.
- Thread starter
- #213
Well, I lied to everyone a few posts back when I said I was wrapping everything up for the winter. I have been tirelessly working on stuff I told myself I would put off until summer.
I will get pictures up in the next couple of weeks but here is a preview for those who read words:
I gutted the doors completely...yeah, minus the front window runs they were completely gutted
I vacuumed out, cleaned and degreased the doors in preparation for sound deadening
I sound deadened all 4 doors with Kilmat 100mil sound deadener because it is thicker and cheaper than the stuff I've been using and I wanted to try it out for comparison. Seems about the same to me.
I dismantled, soaked in WD-40 and brass brush scrubbed the door latches....oh yes... I definitely opened them up, removed all old grease, thoroughly cleaned and reassembled all 4 door latches.
I removed, disassembled and clean the lock tumblers... I broke them down to the smallest increments I could and thoroughly cleaned them. Then Degreased them, blew them out and upon reassembling them I shook the tumblers in a baggy with a 50/50 powdered graphite/dry molybdenum powder mix and ran the key in and out a whole lotta times.
I replaced the rear door lock actuators with some Aisin units
I replaced all 4 window regulators with some....DON'T BURN ME AT THE STAKE...Dorman units.
I replaced the old rubber rings I had made to install the speakers with adapters I printed.
I replaced the passenger rear window run as it tore at the corner...all 4 were replaced less than 10 years ago but they're all hard as heck already.
I replaced my power mirror switch with a nice used one that actually stays in the dash. I also have been working on a super secret power mirror thing for a few weeks. Once I have succeeded I will post about it.
I had the air chuck bracket made of 316 stainless and mounted and plumbed it all in.
I designed and had the ditch light brackets made from 316 stainless and mounted those.
I wired up and installed the new Rigid ditch lights.
I installed the LCP extreme duty swaybar links and the Whiteline 30mm sway bar.
I also finally installed the ARB breather kit I've had sitting around. I kept the rubber lines coming off the axles and utilized (3) 1/4" brass hose barb T fittings and one splice barb fitting to hook it all up. Now the axles, transmission and transfer are all breathing from inside the engine bay.
*I reassembled all doors but the driver rear which is a caveat down below.
I finally tackled the driver seat bottom foam. WAY easier than anticipated. I had no idea it was as easy as it was. took me maybe an hour and a half to remove the seat, disassemble, wire brush the rust, treat with OSPHO, reassemble and reinstall. I used some stainless 3/4" hog rings off Amazon and some Harbor Freight hog rind pliers. I also utilized my needle nose pliers to get a tighter curl. No more little yellow orange adventure sprinkles on the carpet
I also installed the seat recline handles that I thought were broke. I couldn't get them to stay on so I bought new ones many years ago and hadn't installed them because I could only get black and couldn't find the correct color SEM paint. Well, turns out the screws weren't the correct screws and that having the correct screws 100% solved the issue.
I installed the Tiny Tach diesel tach/hour meter to see where my idle was at. Then I installed the Tiny Tach PZO Amplifier and wired it to the Dakota Digital SGI- 100BT. After some back and forth with the makers of Tiny Tach and the folks at Dakota Digital I was able to get my tach working again. I still have yet to actually wire and package it all. I think I'm just going to run the piezo clamps signal wire into the cab and wire the PZO amp and Dakota under the driver seat right at the accessory switched fuse block. That way I can hopefully plumb the outgoing signal right into the interior harness.
I lost my tach when the flexplate fell apart and had to be replaced. I couldn't seem to find a matching flexplate so I went with a different Mercedes unit that I ended up having to trim the tone ring off of. I made a tool that was basically an 3d printed eccentric slough bearing where the outside race was shaped like the starter flange and the inside race had a threaded bung to accept a die grinder. That way I could control the exact amount I was cutting the tone ring back. Simply inserted with a 2" cutoff disk and bolted down, turned on and rotated against the tone ring, then the crank was turned little by little with a rachet. Anyway, I lost the use of my tach.
AN ASIDE NOTE FOR THE TACH SETUP FOR ANY DIESEL SWAPS.
If you purchase the Tiny Tach PZO amplifier and the correct size injection line clamp and a Dakota Digital SGI-100BT, you will need to set it up as a GAS tach using HI Volt out, not as a Diesel Tach. I have mine configured currently as a 1 cylinder in 6 cylinder out 18volt I believe, though I can double check if needed. This should save you some time as I couldn't readily find the solution through google.
I repaired some broken wires in my driver kick panel. Whoever did the initial alarm install used undersized scotchloks....I don't condone scotchloks to begin with. However, I didn't dare remove them when I Installed the Clifford and subsequently the Viper alarms. Well, that came back to bite me when I was staring down the end of a random wire. When I investigated I found 3 broken wires with scotchloks. So I added a tag end with a connector, soldered and shrink tubed them. My biggest gripe is that it was all molested on the vehicle side not the accessory harness side.
*Driver Rear door Caveat
I had ordered new door cards from Australian Door Cards...the original style cards. I didn't even know they made plastic ones. I ordered the 1/8" underlay foam and when it was supposedly a day out I skinned my worst looking door. A PO had somehow melted the handle and it was pretty abused on the upper vinyl with hard to see cuts.
Anyway, Ice storm hit and really messed up Oregon. My package was delayed and then once again the feckless chromosome heavy tax writeoffs of the USPS misdelivered yet another package. That make 72 in the last 13 years I've lived here. I thought it was just package thieves, and I have had those but mostly, according to my security cam footage, it's the post office misdelivering. Because letters and numbers are hard. I get neighbors stuff all the time, literally at least 3 times a month I'm delivering someone elses mail that got misdelivered to me. Anyway, I live around a bunch of scumbags and nobody ever seems to deliver my stuff to me. The best part is I've literally walked to the dumpster to toss trash or recycling and found 2 packages of mine. Not even opened. Just tossed in the trash instead of delivered to me. Anyway, I digress... old man rant over. So, I haven't heard anything about package replacement and I have a skinned door panel. At this point I'm just going to try and find a shop to do the job instead of paying another $48 on foam.
I have a few more things left on the list to do, like add insulator clamps to the rear wiring and install new mudflaps, take it and have the big dent in the roof pulled by a PDR place (wheeling memories)...if they can. Then I will assemble and install the Prinsu rack and some other silly stuff. I'm considering designing and having a set of rear drawers bent up to replace the ones I made. Maybe I will just break down and buy ARB. I would really like MSA drawers but they don't sell the 80 drawers here and they're SUPER pricey.
I will get pictures up in the next couple of weeks but here is a preview for those who read words:
I gutted the doors completely...yeah, minus the front window runs they were completely gutted
I vacuumed out, cleaned and degreased the doors in preparation for sound deadening
I sound deadened all 4 doors with Kilmat 100mil sound deadener because it is thicker and cheaper than the stuff I've been using and I wanted to try it out for comparison. Seems about the same to me.
I dismantled, soaked in WD-40 and brass brush scrubbed the door latches....oh yes... I definitely opened them up, removed all old grease, thoroughly cleaned and reassembled all 4 door latches.
I removed, disassembled and clean the lock tumblers... I broke them down to the smallest increments I could and thoroughly cleaned them. Then Degreased them, blew them out and upon reassembling them I shook the tumblers in a baggy with a 50/50 powdered graphite/dry molybdenum powder mix and ran the key in and out a whole lotta times.
I replaced the rear door lock actuators with some Aisin units
I replaced all 4 window regulators with some....DON'T BURN ME AT THE STAKE...Dorman units.
I replaced the old rubber rings I had made to install the speakers with adapters I printed.
I replaced the passenger rear window run as it tore at the corner...all 4 were replaced less than 10 years ago but they're all hard as heck already.
I replaced my power mirror switch with a nice used one that actually stays in the dash. I also have been working on a super secret power mirror thing for a few weeks. Once I have succeeded I will post about it.
I had the air chuck bracket made of 316 stainless and mounted and plumbed it all in.
I designed and had the ditch light brackets made from 316 stainless and mounted those.
I wired up and installed the new Rigid ditch lights.
I installed the LCP extreme duty swaybar links and the Whiteline 30mm sway bar.
I also finally installed the ARB breather kit I've had sitting around. I kept the rubber lines coming off the axles and utilized (3) 1/4" brass hose barb T fittings and one splice barb fitting to hook it all up. Now the axles, transmission and transfer are all breathing from inside the engine bay.
*I reassembled all doors but the driver rear which is a caveat down below.
I finally tackled the driver seat bottom foam. WAY easier than anticipated. I had no idea it was as easy as it was. took me maybe an hour and a half to remove the seat, disassemble, wire brush the rust, treat with OSPHO, reassemble and reinstall. I used some stainless 3/4" hog rings off Amazon and some Harbor Freight hog rind pliers. I also utilized my needle nose pliers to get a tighter curl. No more little yellow orange adventure sprinkles on the carpet
I also installed the seat recline handles that I thought were broke. I couldn't get them to stay on so I bought new ones many years ago and hadn't installed them because I could only get black and couldn't find the correct color SEM paint. Well, turns out the screws weren't the correct screws and that having the correct screws 100% solved the issue.
I installed the Tiny Tach diesel tach/hour meter to see where my idle was at. Then I installed the Tiny Tach PZO Amplifier and wired it to the Dakota Digital SGI- 100BT. After some back and forth with the makers of Tiny Tach and the folks at Dakota Digital I was able to get my tach working again. I still have yet to actually wire and package it all. I think I'm just going to run the piezo clamps signal wire into the cab and wire the PZO amp and Dakota under the driver seat right at the accessory switched fuse block. That way I can hopefully plumb the outgoing signal right into the interior harness.
I lost my tach when the flexplate fell apart and had to be replaced. I couldn't seem to find a matching flexplate so I went with a different Mercedes unit that I ended up having to trim the tone ring off of. I made a tool that was basically an 3d printed eccentric slough bearing where the outside race was shaped like the starter flange and the inside race had a threaded bung to accept a die grinder. That way I could control the exact amount I was cutting the tone ring back. Simply inserted with a 2" cutoff disk and bolted down, turned on and rotated against the tone ring, then the crank was turned little by little with a rachet. Anyway, I lost the use of my tach.
AN ASIDE NOTE FOR THE TACH SETUP FOR ANY DIESEL SWAPS.
If you purchase the Tiny Tach PZO amplifier and the correct size injection line clamp and a Dakota Digital SGI-100BT, you will need to set it up as a GAS tach using HI Volt out, not as a Diesel Tach. I have mine configured currently as a 1 cylinder in 6 cylinder out 18volt I believe, though I can double check if needed. This should save you some time as I couldn't readily find the solution through google.
I repaired some broken wires in my driver kick panel. Whoever did the initial alarm install used undersized scotchloks....I don't condone scotchloks to begin with. However, I didn't dare remove them when I Installed the Clifford and subsequently the Viper alarms. Well, that came back to bite me when I was staring down the end of a random wire. When I investigated I found 3 broken wires with scotchloks. So I added a tag end with a connector, soldered and shrink tubed them. My biggest gripe is that it was all molested on the vehicle side not the accessory harness side.
*Driver Rear door Caveat
I had ordered new door cards from Australian Door Cards...the original style cards. I didn't even know they made plastic ones. I ordered the 1/8" underlay foam and when it was supposedly a day out I skinned my worst looking door. A PO had somehow melted the handle and it was pretty abused on the upper vinyl with hard to see cuts.
Anyway, Ice storm hit and really messed up Oregon. My package was delayed and then once again the feckless chromosome heavy tax writeoffs of the USPS misdelivered yet another package. That make 72 in the last 13 years I've lived here. I thought it was just package thieves, and I have had those but mostly, according to my security cam footage, it's the post office misdelivering. Because letters and numbers are hard. I get neighbors stuff all the time, literally at least 3 times a month I'm delivering someone elses mail that got misdelivered to me. Anyway, I live around a bunch of scumbags and nobody ever seems to deliver my stuff to me. The best part is I've literally walked to the dumpster to toss trash or recycling and found 2 packages of mine. Not even opened. Just tossed in the trash instead of delivered to me. Anyway, I digress... old man rant over. So, I haven't heard anything about package replacement and I have a skinned door panel. At this point I'm just going to try and find a shop to do the job instead of paying another $48 on foam.
I have a few more things left on the list to do, like add insulator clamps to the rear wiring and install new mudflaps, take it and have the big dent in the roof pulled by a PDR place (wheeling memories)...if they can. Then I will assemble and install the Prinsu rack and some other silly stuff. I'm considering designing and having a set of rear drawers bent up to replace the ones I made. Maybe I will just break down and buy ARB. I would really like MSA drawers but they don't sell the 80 drawers here and they're SUPER pricey.
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- Thread starter
- #214
Some front lock actuator rehab. I don't know where the after pictures are.
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- Thread starter
- #215
Some rear latch and actuator action.
- Thread starter
- #216
Some tasteful tumbler teasers.
- Thread starter
- #217
YEP! I'm terrible at taking process pictures. Another half photo documented procedure. I tend to hyper focus on what I'm doing when I'm trying to be efficient.
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- Thread starter
- #218
Here are the 316 Stainless ditch light brackets I designed up and had Send Cut Send make. The only issue I had was the bend limitations for the material. I ended up having to tab in the bottom section of the center triangle for the last inch past the bend and design in 3 pilot holes. Once drilled to 3/8" the holes were inter-connected and removed all of the tabs on the bottom. I then had to use a grinder to trim the remaining 2 side tabs and a half-round bastard to file down the teeth left from drilling. Overall it went pretty quickly. The 316 is a bear to drill out; it was terrible to try and tap to the ARB chuck M18x1.25. It absolutely ate my tap. If I got the wild hair and ordered another I'd just pay them to tap all the holes.
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- Thread starter
- #219
Here we go, a couple pictures of the cutting tool for the tone ring so you can understand what is otherwise nonsensical Bidenesque ramblings.
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I thought you were looking for a bench seat? Did that not pan out? I actually found a Middle East bench set up that I’m going to be using on my 97 starting this April when we move back to Washington. Right up the street. Awesome write up brother!!