DirtDauberGarage
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- #61
Here are a few pics from our meetup last Saturday. We had 11 FJ40's, about 8 80's, several JDM 100's. It was a fun group!
Builds Meet "Rusty" - 1978 USA - FJ40 (1 Viewer)
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DirtDauberGarage
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I decided to repurpose the sleeping platform and drawers that I originally built for my dad's Tacoma. He didn’t like them because they raised him too high when he slept in the camper, and he felt claustrophobic, so we removed them. Now, I need to shorten both the height and length to make them fit, and I plan to redesign a few things.
This is not how I would design or build it from scratch if I were creating it specifically for the FJ40, but since I already have all the materials and it’s partially built, I’m going to make it work without incurring any additional costs.
If I find that I like this setup, I may eventually rebuild it from scratch.
This is not how I would design or build it from scratch if I were creating it specifically for the FJ40, but since I already have all the materials and it’s partially built, I’m going to make it work without incurring any additional costs.
If I find that I like this setup, I may eventually rebuild it from scratch.
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DirtDauberGarage
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- #63
I am planning a seven-day trail and camping trip on the Georgia Traverse with our YOTA Atlanta club in October... so I am preparing for that. I’ve removed the back seats to create more space since no one ever sits there. I will fill the drawers with camping supplies, including my stove, spices, utensils, camp chair, and stuff like that.
I plan to build a platform covering the back area and will add a removable section that extends the platform forward (see below) for when I take off the passenger seat back for sleeping. It is quick and easy since it is only two nuts. I will take it off, put the extra board in, and I have a camping mattress that will allow me to sleep comfortably in the vehicle. Since I am 6'2", I’ll need the extra room to stretch out. All my camping supplies will fit in the drawers, while my cooler/fridge and Bluetti power station will be stored on the driver’s side. It should be pretty cool!
I'll post more pictures once I finish building it and everything is set up!
I plan to build a platform covering the back area and will add a removable section that extends the platform forward (see below) for when I take off the passenger seat back for sleeping. It is quick and easy since it is only two nuts. I will take it off, put the extra board in, and I have a camping mattress that will allow me to sleep comfortably in the vehicle. Since I am 6'2", I’ll need the extra room to stretch out. All my camping supplies will fit in the drawers, while my cooler/fridge and Bluetti power station will be stored on the driver’s side. It should be pretty cool!
I'll post more pictures once I finish building it and everything is set up!
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DirtDauberGarage
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UPDATE ON THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR:
From the pic on City Racer's website, the VR I purchased from NAPA was a NON-US one and that is why the plug was a little different (black and not green). It wasn't that hard to swap out the plug, and the one from NAPA was only $25, so it was definitely worth it since it was a good deal.
I've had it for several months now and it works great!
DirtDauberGarage
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Got the drawer system pretty much finished up today. I say "pretty much" because it is not 100% done, but done enough to use. I plan to camp in it a couple of times to see what I like and don't like about it. I might keep it as is, or maybe modify it after I use it a few times.
The only thing I had to buy was a 4x8 sheet of eucaboard (hardboard) for the bottom of the box. I did not have a piece big enough left over from the old build, and I really wanted the entire floor covered with the smooth side up so the drawers would slide smoothly. I know some guys would recommend using ball-bearing drawer slides, but this is a "budget build," and this process works. When the drawers were in the Tacoma, they were six feet long, full of camping gear, and they slid in and out with ease. The bottom of the drawers has the smooth side done as well, so a smooth surface on a smooth surface.
By not using heavy ball-bearing drawer slides, it kept my cost and weight down. I want to keep the weight as light as possible, and those things are heavy and expensive!
Here is a Home Depot Tip!!
If you are buying anything at HD, look and see (or ask) if there are any damaged materials that you can buy. There were two pieces of eucaboard left on the rack, and both were slightly damaged on the corners. I only needed about 1/3 of the board, so I didn't need the whole thing. I asked the manager if he would discount it, and he gave it to me at half price.
The only thing I had to buy was a 4x8 sheet of eucaboard (hardboard) for the bottom of the box. I did not have a piece big enough left over from the old build, and I really wanted the entire floor covered with the smooth side up so the drawers would slide smoothly. I know some guys would recommend using ball-bearing drawer slides, but this is a "budget build," and this process works. When the drawers were in the Tacoma, they were six feet long, full of camping gear, and they slid in and out with ease. The bottom of the drawers has the smooth side done as well, so a smooth surface on a smooth surface.
By not using heavy ball-bearing drawer slides, it kept my cost and weight down. I want to keep the weight as light as possible, and those things are heavy and expensive!
Here is a Home Depot Tip!!
If you are buying anything at HD, look and see (or ask) if there are any damaged materials that you can buy. There were two pieces of eucaboard left on the rack, and both were slightly damaged on the corners. I only needed about 1/3 of the board, so I didn't need the whole thing. I asked the manager if he would discount it, and he gave it to me at half price.
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DirtDauberGarage
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The other reason I use the eucaboard is that the tub bolts stick up and would be in the way of the drawers sliding in and out, so the board helps raise the floor just enough to fix that problem. I used a rubber mallet and a board to smack the eucaboard while it was sitting on the bolt. This made a clear mark where the bolt was, and I drilled out a hole to make room for the bolt. Another benefit is that it serves to help anchor the drawer box and keep it from sliding. The top board will be wedged in tightly, this, along with the weight of the stuff in the drawers and gravity... I am not worried at all about the box moving or coming out inadvertently.
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DirtDauberGarage
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Since I used old materials from the old project, I only had one board long enough to make the inside and sides of the box. I used the long one for the middle piece. For the sides, I used a piece of the eucaboard to attach the two boards to make the sides long enough. It was just the right thickness to go on the outside between the ribs on the wheel well. I attached it with glue and about 20 staples.
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DirtDauberGarage
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For the driver's side, the back door does not open all the way because of the tire rack. I needed to move the drawer over about two inches to allow it to slide out when the door is open as wide as possible. I used some extra pieces to attach the two boards and fill in the extra space. Again, I used glue and this time screws.
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DirtDauberGarage
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Next, I attached the sides and the middle piece to the eucaboard with glue and about 100 staples 
One staple about every half inch. You can see the boards for the outside of the box and the middle at the bottom.
One staple about every half inch. You can see the boards for the outside of the box and the middle at the bottom.
DirtDauberGarage
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Before I slide the bottom and sides of the box into the 40, I needed to address a few rust holes. A previous owner replaced the rear sill but did not address a few of the rust issues with the bed floor and wheel wells. I know that this is not a long-term fix, but I want to keep water from getting into the bed, and this should deal with the issue for now. Aluminum foil tape from Home Depot. I already had it, so again, zero cost.
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DirtDauberGarage
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Here is the box with the sides inside the FJ40 before I put the top on it, and also a pic with the top on it.
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DirtDauberGarage
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I intentionally made the top level with the wheel wells and not extending over the top of them to help make it as light as possible and also to make it easy to get out if needed. This might be something that I would do differently next time. The drawers are only six inches in height, and raising the platform an inch or two would allow for more storage. That being said, I need to avoid the temptation to load the drawers up with 300 pounds of junk. The other advantage of this design is that I can put the seats back in if I want to.
I did not glue the top down, but only attached it with a few screws... again, so I can get it out easily if needed.
I didn't intentionally plan this, but I can slide the passenger side drawer out with the driver side door closed. Glad I don't have to unlatch the tire and open both doors every time I want to get in one of the drawers.
I did not glue the top down, but only attached it with a few screws... again, so I can get it out easily if needed.
I didn't intentionally plan this, but I can slide the passenger side drawer out with the driver side door closed. Glad I don't have to unlatch the tire and open both doors every time I want to get in one of the drawers.
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Nice work repurposing those drawers! I like that they fit perfect for the ambulance doors. Also the bumper sticker 
DirtDauberGarage
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One other tip for Home Depot... the damage discount is good for not just lumber...
I once got this Husky ball-bearing tool chest for $50 because it had a dent in the top. I saw it sitting in the back of the store, and I asked the manager about it. He discounted it for me, so I bought it. As I was loading it in my truck in the parking lot, I hit the dent with my fist, and the dent popped right out.
I once got this Husky ball-bearing tool chest for $50 because it had a dent in the top. I saw it sitting in the back of the store, and I asked the manager about it. He discounted it for me, so I bought it. As I was loading it in my truck in the parking lot, I hit the dent with my fist, and the dent popped right out.
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Nice work on the drawer/platform system. I’ll be curious how it works for you and what changes you may make. I’m on the hunt for another 40 right now, and camping with it is my #1 goal. You’ve given me some ideas.
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DirtDauberGarage
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I already have a few ideas. I will eventually post them... hopefully before you get your 40. Good luck!
DirtDauberGarage
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One idea I had was to put the two smaller boards on the other end with a hinge on them so I could flip them up and reach into the drawers to grab something while sitting in the driver's seat.
I had that idea before I built it. The reason I decided NOT to do it was that I like that the boxes are a little hard to get into. Most thieves are looking for something they can grab quickly.
Right now, if I lock the back doors, a thief would have to climb in the back of the FJ40, unlock the doors, climb back out, unlatch the spare tire, open the doors, and slide the drawers out to get in the back of the drawers. Anyone who is not familiar with an FJ40 would struggle to do all that quickly and probably move on to another car.
I might even put locks on the drawers so that I can secure things like tools and other valuables from getting stolen. Of course, I could put locks on the flip-up doors as well.
Like I said, I'm going to use it for a while and then figure out what I like and don't like.
I had that idea before I built it. The reason I decided NOT to do it was that I like that the boxes are a little hard to get into. Most thieves are looking for something they can grab quickly.
Right now, if I lock the back doors, a thief would have to climb in the back of the FJ40, unlock the doors, climb back out, unlatch the spare tire, open the doors, and slide the drawers out to get in the back of the drawers. Anyone who is not familiar with an FJ40 would struggle to do all that quickly and probably move on to another car.
I might even put locks on the drawers so that I can secure things like tools and other valuables from getting stolen. Of course, I could put locks on the flip-up doors as well.
Like I said, I'm going to use it for a while and then figure out what I like and don't like.
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DirtDauberGarage
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One thing I am going to do is build an 8-10 inch extension from the platform to extend over the back of the metal console and mount an ammo box on it. I will also add a padded armrest on it. I already have both of these items.
It will make a perfect armrest and a small storage box for keys, phone charges, etc. I will probably mount it with wing nuts or something easy to take off. That way if it gets in the way of my sleep mattress or anything else, it will come off in a matter of minutes.
It will make a perfect armrest and a small storage box for keys, phone charges, etc. I will probably mount it with wing nuts or something easy to take off. That way if it gets in the way of my sleep mattress or anything else, it will come off in a matter of minutes.
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DirtDauberGarage
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I like it.. I call it holistic design; throw together your idea; then let it evolve as you use it.
Re: thinner material comment; I like building with 1/2 baltic birch marine plywood. There are more cross grain veneers so is more stable than plain 1/2” AC. More expensive but worth it for a longer turn build.
Re: thinner material comment; I like building with 1/2 baltic birch marine plywood. There are more cross grain veneers so is more stable than plain 1/2” AC. More expensive but worth it for a longer turn build.
