Builds Meet Phoenix aka Zombie

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Picked up some kicker speakers for the front and back. The fronts cleared the glass no problem.

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Nicely done.. Yeah I have found that the muffler really can take some tone out of the loudness. But hey, sure feels good to have resurrected that truck huh!
 
Less than a year since that original photo that looked like a crime scene. Nice work!

Thanks! Kind of a bummer the journey is coming to an end but it was a blast bringing it back.
 
Nicely done.. Yeah I have found that the muffler really can take some tone out of the loudness. But hey, sure feels good to have resurrected that truck huh!
Thank You! Feels great to be street legal and cruise around.

I’ve had a small vibration at 25 mph so I started looking at the pinion angle. The PO had 4 degree shims that tilted the pinion up. Swapped the shim to tilt the pinion back down and the flanges were perfectly parallel. Vibration gone. Maybe they were planning on using a DC shaft.
 
Now that I’ve put some miles on, I decided to check compression again and adjust valves. Compression numbers are cold/dry before adjusting valves and no change after. #2 intake and #4 exhaust were about a thousandth too tight. Makes sense as they were the ones with a bunch of crud on the back of the valves.

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I have to say, this has been one of the handiest tools I’ve come up with. Makes valve adjustment a breeze.

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Don't leave me hanging! What the hell is that thing? How does it work? Anything that makes valve adjustment easier is a great idea.

It’s basically just a protractor that fits onto the distributor. The rotor is fitted with a “pointer”. I put the motor to #1 TDC and note what degree the pointer is at. Then adjust valves on #1, crank the motor by hand till the pointer moves 60 degrees, then adjust #5 valves, 60 degrees again and do #3...and so forth through the rest of the firing order.
 
I mapped the cam on the 60s 2F a while back because the FSM way of adjusting valves was giving me a .002” variation on some compared to each cylinder individually at TDC (not a stock cam). I decided it was because with the FSM you are setting some of the others on the leading or trailing edge of the cam lobe and they wear differently. It’s fine for these tractor motors I suppose. If this was a higher precision motor, I would probably set each valve independently by lining the cam up opposite the lobe for each lifter.

Some drawings of the 2F cam lobe positions...

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This past week I swapped out the rear oversized shackles 5.5” for some 3.5” ones to get rid of the stink bug. This got it really close to level. It tilted my pinion down almost 4 degrees and caused a big vibration around 25 mph. So...the shims I recently spun around had to come out. Running no shims in the rear now.

Before

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After


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