- Thread starter
- #181
I also took the opportunity while the top is off to paint the channel, and place new riv-nuts where I had broken off bolts.
Builds Maytag. 1967 LPB, a daily driven survivor (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter DailyDrive_FJ45
- Start date
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That was me with the horse mats.
Nice work.
Nice work.
jfz80
Cruisin’
Mighty fine work indeed. Really enjoying following along and glad to see a survivor land in such good hands.
- Thread starter
- #184
Currently having a bit of a wiring nightmare. Found a melted wire going to the ignition switch (BR wire from BAT).
Traced where it went to in the harness and replaced it, but in the process I must have disturbed some of the voodoo magic keeping everything else working, and now my lighting circuit doesn't work. Heads, tails, front markers all dead. Turn signals still work, oddly enough (I know they're on a different fuse). Lighting circuit fuse, however is not blown so that means my problems lie somewhere else down the line. My guess is the junction blocks under the hood. So i'm going to start there.
Also vaguely curious about the Voltage regulator which looks to be in horrible shape externally. as this style is NLA I'm wondering if I should switch to an alternator with an internal regulator?
Anyone have a good write-up for going from an early system to a more modern one, and how to bypass the old regulator?
Should be getting my new top weatherstripping and headliner in today. So I've been cleaning up the top in preparation for that. Patched the few small pinholes I found treated and with rust converter
Traced where it went to in the harness and replaced it, but in the process I must have disturbed some of the voodoo magic keeping everything else working, and now my lighting circuit doesn't work. Heads, tails, front markers all dead. Turn signals still work, oddly enough (I know they're on a different fuse). Lighting circuit fuse, however is not blown so that means my problems lie somewhere else down the line. My guess is the junction blocks under the hood. So i'm going to start there.
Also vaguely curious about the Voltage regulator which looks to be in horrible shape externally. as this style is NLA I'm wondering if I should switch to an alternator with an internal regulator?
Anyone have a good write-up for going from an early system to a more modern one, and how to bypass the old regulator?
Should be getting my new top weatherstripping and headliner in today. So I've been cleaning up the top in preparation for that. Patched the few small pinholes I found treated and with rust converter
- Thread starter
- #185
Debating starting completely fresh, and building a new cowl harness entirely. Sent an email to @Coolerman inquiring about getting all the right connectors, and already found all the correct color wires. Doesn't seem like it would be too bad to do. Especially if I used my old harness (and all of the schematics I've been able to find that match what I have).
I'd get the new fuse block from Cityracer, I already ordered the new junction blocks.
Not even all that expensive.
Any reason I shouldn't do this?
Having cleaned up an Italian wiring harness with a poorly installed aftermarket alarm system this seems like cake .
I'd get the new fuse block from Cityracer, I already ordered the new junction blocks.
Not even all that expensive.
Any reason I shouldn't do this?
Having cleaned up an Italian wiring harness with a poorly installed aftermarket alarm system this seems like cake .
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Oh yeah. Just replace it if you have burned wires. Something made em burn.
- Thread starter
- #187
I guess the other question i have is, can a different external voltage regulator be used if I can't get this specific one?
I used an FJ60 alternator on my 40. Got rid of all that stuff. So yes. You can bypass it.
- Thread starter
- #189
How did you wire it up? Are you still going through the Ammeter in the cluster?
It’s stand alone. Not tied to my harness. I have a plug that I use for my cig lighter that has a volt meter
I have one of these in all of my early Cruisers because the volt meter is pretty lame.
Plus if I don’t crank them for a while I can make sure the battery is good
- Thread starter
- #191
So I take it you just go from +B on the alt (10ga white/blue) directly to BAT ( normally 10ga white)?
All you are doing is charging the battery. Yes.
middlecalf
SILVER Star
IMHO given the completeness of your rig I’d probably go a new harness from @Coolerman. That voltage regulator is a thing of beauty though.
Iztoss, lol, you have to love the electronic gizmos from China. On my list at Amazon.
Iztoss, lol, you have to love the electronic gizmos from China. On my list at Amazon.
- Thread starter
- #194
The plan was to put together a harness myself with the correct color coded wires and connectors from coolerman. I like the idea of doing it myself instead of sending my old harness out for reproduction. Actually sounds like fun to me and I get to learn more about how it all goes together.
I plan to stay as close to factory as possible.
- Thread starter
- #195
If I try to keep the stock alternator, but want to replace the old VR, will I be able to make a different one work? For example this one that they have at cruisercorps?
- Thread starter
- #197
Well I did a thing today. Was definitely nervous going into taking the harness out, but once I got going I realized just how simple this thing actually is. Everything is labeled except a few plugs that weren't hooked up to begin with. Will be trying to figure out what those go to, but everything important is good to go.
Looking forward to getting started rebuilding it.
Looking forward to getting started rebuilding it.
- Thread starter
- #198
Few more things done this weekend as well. New OEM Bib Terminal Strips (installed them prior to choosing to pull the harness)
Also made some repairs to the side pins on the hardtop.
Took some 5/8" solid round stock. Cut them down and JB-Welded them in to the old broken off pins. Should work fine.
Also made some repairs to the side pins on the hardtop.
Took some 5/8" solid round stock. Cut them down and JB-Welded them in to the old broken off pins. Should work fine.
- Thread starter
- #199
Another big project was a new headliner for the top.
Started off with a pre-glue test fit. I found that the most important piece would be to secure the liner under the front channel. These flexible plastic scrapers were very helpful in getting that pushed into the channel. Spending a lot of time getting this lined up properly is very important, because in the next step you lock it down.
After I was happy with how the liner fit without glue I used a block of wood and hammer to crimp that metal channel down onto the front edge of the liner. Locking in the front edge.
Next up was adhesive. For this I used a High Temperature Spray Adhesive that I had good results with on a project for the 348.
I used this to glue new heat insulation to the engine cover of my Ferrari as the original insulation had fallen apart. This glue has held up very well to the very high engine bay temps that the 3.4L V8 puts out. So it should be fine for a headliner.
Started off with a pre-glue test fit. I found that the most important piece would be to secure the liner under the front channel. These flexible plastic scrapers were very helpful in getting that pushed into the channel. Spending a lot of time getting this lined up properly is very important, because in the next step you lock it down.
After I was happy with how the liner fit without glue I used a block of wood and hammer to crimp that metal channel down onto the front edge of the liner. Locking in the front edge.
Next up was adhesive. For this I used a High Temperature Spray Adhesive that I had good results with on a project for the 348.
I used this to glue new heat insulation to the engine cover of my Ferrari as the original insulation had fallen apart. This glue has held up very well to the very high engine bay temps that the 3.4L V8 puts out. So it should be fine for a headliner.
- Thread starter
- #200
Finished product. Turned out great! A few small wrinkles in the rear corners, but it's certainly better than the bare metal ceiling.
