Builds Matubrembrem’s FJ60 build (1 Viewer)

[matubrembrem]

Chipping away at things while I wait for my new gears to arrive. I cleaned up my charcoal can and tested using the procedure in the FSM. Air was not flowing freely. I did the fix I found here on mud and sprayed a little carb cleaner in the tank and purge ports then alternated using pressure and vacuum to free up the valve. Worked great! Cleaned up the brackets and gave them a fresh coat of paint then reinstalled. I’ve got to replace all the fuel soft lines so if anyone has recommendations, I’m all ears! I also bench bled and installed a new brake master and dual diaphragm booster from city racer then plumed in some heater lines.

 

[matubrembrem]

Motor is in!

 

[matubrembrem]

Progress…

 

[matubrembrem]

Good news, the truck runs! Bad news, radiator is leaking! I did a flush before pulling the old motor so I’m thinking that dislodged or dissolved whatever crust was plugging it up. There were a couple of small leaks coming from a few of the tubes where they meet the bottom tank. Ordered a mishimoto direct fit and will drop the old one off for repair to keep as a spare. It’s had some work done on it in the past so we’ll see if it can be saved. Also, I’m still waiting on a 34mm to 38mm bushing kit for my new transfer case gears. Feels like it’s dragging on a bit, but it’s getting real close! I can’t wait to drive this thing again!

 

[matubrembrem]

More on the steering gear setup. I had installed an upgraded 80 series gearbox, with 105 series parts. Due to the larger diameter of the sector shaft you have to use the 105 pitman arm or go with something custom. Additionally, the pitman arm does not accept the 60 series rod end due to the mounting hole having a shallower taper. Instead of reaming the pitman arm to take the 60 ends, I decided to upgrade the whole steering arrangement and make use of 80 series rod ends too. I got the knuckle arms, rods and ends as a kit from 4x4 Labs. Awesome product and customer service from the guys over there. The rods and knuckle arms are suuuper beefy. The other cool thing about the kit is it relocates the relay rod to the knuckle arm and it flips the rod ends to the tops of the knuckle arms. Gets the rod ends out of harms way and flattens the rod angle out. It all comes bare metal so I prepped and gave them a coat of POR-15 before install. The steering stabilizer is the heavy duty kit from marlin crawler. I also installed extended sway bar links and bushings.

 

[matubrembrem]

New vapor barriers in all the doors. I had already buttoned up the fronts when I remembered to take pics. Also installed new weather stripping for the door surrounds and rear hatch.

 

[BurntToast]

More on the steering gear setup. I had installed an upgraded 80 series gearbox, with 105 series parts. Due to the larger diameter of the sector shaft you have to use the 105 pitman arm or go with something custom. Additionally, the pitman arm does not accept the 60 series rod end due to the mounting hole having a shallower taper. Instead of reaming the pitman arm to take the 60 ends, I decided to upgrade the whole steering arrangement and make use of 80 series rod ends too. I got the knuckle arms, rods and ends as a kit from 4x4 Labs. Awesome product and customer service from the guys over there. The rods and knuckle arms are suuuper beefy. The other cool thing about the kit is it relocates the relay rod to the knuckle arm and it flips the rod ends to the tops of the knuckle arms. Gets the rod ends out of harms way and flattens the rod angle out. It all comes bare metal so I prepped and gave them a coat of POR-15 before install. The steering stabilizer is the heavy duty kit from marlin crawler. I also installed extended sway bar links and bushings.

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How long did it take to get the steering box? I’m considering the 80 box for the ratio improvement and other benefits

 

[matubrembrem]

How long did it take to get the steering box? I’m considering the 80 box for the ratio improvement and other benefits

My truck’s still not driving while I wait for my t-case to get milled out for the bigger gears, but the box makes a huge difference. I can turn my 35’s lock to lock sitting still with two fingers. Should be great when driving. I bought the box used, the 105 parts from the dealer when I worked there then sent it to redhead for the rebuild. From the time I mailed it, took a little over a week. Super fast. Give them a call when you order, their customer service is fantastic.

 

[matubrembrem]

Here it is with the 35’s. Falken AT3W 35x12.5R15 on 15x8 Pro Comp steelies. Wheels have 3.5in BS. Also running 1.25in spacer for a total of 2.25in BS. Actual tread width is 10in so they’re pretty narrow as configured.

 

[bcolvin]

Great work on all of the maintenance. What did you use for the vapor barrier and adhesive?

 

[matubrembrem]

Great work on all of the maintenance. What did you use for the vapor barrier and adhesive?

I found some super thick trash bags in my in laws garage so I cut those up for the vapor barrier. They were thicker than any of the plastic sheeting I found at local hardware stores and free so I went with it. And the adhesive used was 3M ribbon sealer… this stuff

3M Windo-Weld Round Ribbon Sealer, 08625, 1/8 in x 1/4 in x 30 ft Roll, 24 per case https://a.co/d/f6P9sXO

 

[matubrembrem]

Went to the machine shop a few days ago and finished up milling the case for the reduction gear set. We dialed on the center of each bore and started taking off material a little at a time. It was going really well until we started getting close to the OD we needed and poked a couple pin holes in the case. Darn. Luckily, my machinist friend is also a talented welder. He welded the holes on the outside and inside then milled again to get us the clearance needed. Unfortunately, I still needed to take a little bit of material out with a file when I finally went to assemble the tcase and disfigured the nice machine work. Oh, well. It’s all inside the case now and nothing grinds, binds or leaks! Even though having welds on the exterior of the case is a little ugly, I’m glad there’s more material there now. It does end up pretty thin in that area without it.
The following day, I got the tcase assembled on my H55. Did it “by the numbers” and followed along with @orangefj45 tcase rebuild video. Such a helpful piece of info that video is. Makes me think of how many split cases were properly assembled due to that single video. Awesome.

 

[orangefj45]

Went to the machine shop a few days ago and finished up milling the case for the reduction gear set. We dialed on the center of each bore and started taking off material a little at a time. It was going really well until we started getting close to the OD we needed and poked a couple pin holes in the case. Darn. Luckily, my machinist friend is also a talented welder. He welded the holes on the outside and inside then milled again to get us the clearance needed. Unfortunately, I still needed to take a little bit of material out with a file when I finally went to assemble the tcase and disfigured the nice machine work. Oh, well. It’s all inside the case now and nothing grinds, binds or leaks! Even though having welds on the exterior of the case is a little ugly, I’m glad there’s more material there now. It does end up pretty thin in that area without it.
The following day, I got the tcase assembled on my H55. Did it “by the numbers” and followed along with @orangefj45 tcase rebuild video. Such a helpful piece of info that video is. Makes me think of how many split cases were properly assembled due to that single video. Awesome.


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Glad the video helped.

Looks like you have a 34mm case? This typically end up with two holes if you clearance them for the low gear sets.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

 

[matubrembrem]

Glad the video helped.

Looks like you have a 34mm case? This typically end up with two holes if you clearance them for the low gear sets.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

Tremendously! Thank you. Yes, I do have a 34mm case. I am curious though, is there a difference in case thickness or bore placement that causes that?

 

[g-man]

Quality work going on here. Surprised more members haven't chimed in. Looks great.

Why is the bypass hose on it? I mean if you rebuilt it then there is a new seal and no migration of oil between the trans and the t case.

 

[matubrembrem]

Quality work going on here. Surprised more members haven't chimed in. Looks great.

Why is the bypass hose on it? I mean if you rebuilt it then there is a new seal and no migration of oil between the trans and the t case.

Thank you! Short answer, paranoia. I spent some coin on the tranny and building the tcase so I figured it was cheap insurance to prevent them running dry, just in case the seal fails.

 

[orangefj45]

Thank you! Short answer, paranoia. I spent some coin on the tranny and building the tcase so I figured it was cheap insurance to prevent them running dry, just in case the seal fails.

I’d remove that hose. If both units are in great shape, you should have no leaks.
If you leave the hose in place and there is a leak, then in theory, you can lose all the fluid from both units and potentially damage/ruin both of them. You also run the risk of cross-contamination. These hoses are a Band-Aid at best. I can’t stand them. It’s a short term solution to a bad transfer case input seal. In your case, it is absolutely superfluous and should not be on there IMHO.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

 

[orangefj45]

Tremendously! Thank you. Yes, I do have a 34mm case. I am curious though, is there a difference in case thickness or bore placement that causes that?

The 34mm case casting is slightly “smaller” than the 38mm counterpart. The difference is only about 3mm. That’s why we prefer to run/machine the 38mm cases for the low gear sets.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

 

[matubrembrem]

The 34mm case casting is slightly “smaller” than the 38mm counterpart. The difference is only about 3mm. That’s why we prefer to run/machine the 38mm cases for the low gear sets.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

Aha, interesting. That is good to know, thanks!

 

[matubrembrem]

I’d remove that hose. If both units are in great shape, you should have no leaks.
If you leave the hose in place and there is a leak, then in theory, you can lose all the fluid from both units and potentially damage/ruin both of them. You also run the risk of cross-contamination. These hoses are a Band-Aid at best. I can’t stand them. It’s a short term solution to a bad transfer case input seal. In your case, it is absolutely superfluous and should not be on there IMHO.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

Copy, also great to know. I never would have thought it could cause damage having it installed.
Edit: I see how an external leak could drain both gearboxes with the hose installed. I was worried about a leak in the t-case input seal and didn’t consider the effect it would have if there were an external leak.