Master list of all rear drawer options for the 200-series Land Cruiser (US market only) (2 Viewers)

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The alucab tilting slide works well for a fridge on top. This would kill the sleeper option though.
Thanks for the input. I travel solo, so it’s a one-person sleeper. But you aren’t kidding: that slide is wide enough for two fridges side by side.

Good idea, though.
 
Thanks for the input. I travel solo, so it’s a one-person sleeper. But you aren’t kidding: that slide is wide enough for two fridges side by side.

Good idea, though.
The small version of this would let one person sleep next to it.

 
Both Trekboxx and Goose Gear also have 2nd row systems that allow for a full length sleeper. They both replace portions (or all) of the second row seating.

I have an ADGU premier system with a 60/40 sleeper, and it is a good product dollar for dollar. Their second row/sleeper support piece is a bit of a skeletal solution, but it works. I used it for ~10,000 miles this summer.

I just ordered a Trekboxx Bravo system with the second row platform storage box option. It can run either or both of the 60/40 sections. Now that one of my kids is grown up, I generally leave the 60% section out. I will run the 60% section of the Trekboxx full time and add the 40% section for big trips.
I really like the Tekbox system, though with 6k worth of seats on the way, I’d probably end up divorced if i pulled the trigger on that, even though they seem to have exactly what I want: a one-side sleeper.

Thanks for all the replies. I think I’m going to try revamping my setup once again and build a better slider to go with it.

Not usually mentioned among offroad drawer/sleeper options is the Truck Vault. In almost 30 years, I had multiple TV units and they were all smooth as butter. The company is not yet all-in with off-roader units, though they’re getting there. The downside is that they are VERY heavy. But their stuff is hard to beat for firearms (though I preferred having both of mine accessible via a BigSky rack).
 
I have been looking at these but the rubbing on the seats concerns me a bit. Is there a way to shorten these as a DIY project. There is not a lot of info or pictures of these online, but do you see a way to add attach a sleeping platform that rests on the 2nd row seats like the ADGU and Landshark did?
Sorry for the late reply as your post came while I was on vacation. One *might* be able to shorten them as the shelves do not go all the way to back. I would have to remove the top to measure exactly how much space there is between the shelf and the end cover but a rough measurement is that 1.5" so one could remove an inch. The box is sheet metal so that would be easy to refab. The issue would be the framework.

As for a sleeping platform, I would not bother attaching anything. I would simply get a piece of 3/8" or 1/2" PVC board that is 24"x48 and lay that in with the head rests for support. With a thick pad over it one will not notice the sight incline.
 
Any body running this as an affordable exped platform option?

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After a very long delay I finally installed my Big Country Savute dual drawer system in my LC200. Overall I am pleased and will offer a few thoughts.
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If there is one change to be made, that would be to make the drawers one inch shorter in length. The drawers are right up against the second row seats. They can be reclined but then are squished into the drawers which will cause wear. This issue is known.

Today I had a bit of time to investigate what could be done about the drawers being right up against the second row seats. The center console, being "foamy" takes the brunt of the squishing. The seats not so much but some. At this point mine are fully upright which for a passenger would not be comfortable.

There is approximately 1.25" between the end of the drawer and the sheet metal endplate. It would be rather straight forward to trim 1/2" - 3/4". Trimming a 1/2" would butt the endplate right up against a bottom support. Cutting 3/4" would mean it would overlap. One could also move the support by drilling new holes.

Trimming a 1/2"-3/4" from the two side panels though having a shallow "U" shape would require a straight cut. After being trimmed a few holes would need to be drilled for the end cap and top sheet.

There is also a center panel that would also need to be trimmed. That would not be quite as straight forward as there is 90 degree tab. Two options, the simplest would be to make a straight cut and from the extra fabricate a 90 degree corner and bolt that on. Or make the appropriate cut and bend the sheet metal to make the tab with a straight jaw sheet metal seamer. Then drill the appropriate holes.

Doing this trimming I would think would be easy with an angle grinder or a sheet metal nibbler. I am not a sheet metal worker so others might have better ideas. Regardless I think it would be rather straightforward.

The last bit would be to trim the same amount from the wood top sheet. That would be easy peasy as all one would need to is pull back the carpet, make the cut, then glue the carpet back down, trimming the excess. Afterward drilling new holes.

While doing all this I decided the first thing I am going to try is to router the wood top sheet at 45 degrees. That will take some of the initial pressure off the back of the seats. That will be pretty simple, pull back the carpet, make the cut, then glue the carpet back down, trimming the excess.

Overall though I think Big Country could and should revise their design of the side and center by 1/2" changing nothing else and remove the problem. It would leave 3/4" between the end of the drawer and the end plate.

If anyone is a sheet metal worker please let me know your thoughts.
 

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