Thanks but thats the wifes baby(I did end up putting 3 new dents in it on that trip, just don't tell her
)My 60 is still waiting for more parts, hiding in the garage
Marlin Crawler sliders.
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Thanks but thats the wifes baby(I did end up putting 3 new dents in it on that trip, just don't tell her
)My 60 is still waiting for more parts, hiding in the garage
Got mine DONE!!!!
I opted to a shallower angle...15*!
My wife wanted a bit of a step!
Used 2x2 in, 1/4 in thick plate for "load spanner", and 1/4 in plate for a gusset!
Chicago
I opted to a shallower angle...15*!
My wife wanted a bit of a step!
Used 2x2 in, 1/4 in thick plate for "load spanner", and 1/4 in plate for a gusset!
Chicago
Got mine DONE!!!!
I opted to a shallower angle...15*!
My wife wanted a bit of a step!
Used 2x2 in, 1/4 in thick plate for "load spanner", and 1/4 in plate for a gusset!
Chicago
Nice job! Gotta keep the rocks off that woodgrain
Nice job! Gotta keep the rocks off that woodgrain
HA HA!
The wood grain is going away this fall/ winter....
Gonna start hackin the body rust, cuttin the rear quarters etc. and it cant be saved!
Smurf blue is all she'll be!
Chicago
Fired up the welder today, and opened up my welding cage to get the TG sliders on (finally I know!). Used the "gusset kit" with the scab plates. End result is proving very nice. I angled mine up, but left just enough to be able to step up and get into my ski box. Had'nt even thought to cut the pinch, but found that fitting the top "notch" allowed perfect fitting (FYI). I'll also be adding some horisontal gussets along the inner sliders for brutal support.
BTW: I noticed that my 1" body lift allowed me to have straight cuts as well.
BTW: I noticed that my 1" body lift allowed me to have straight cuts as well.
BTW: I noticed that my 1" body lift allowed me to have straight cuts as well.[/quote]
GAWD, that is NICE for you!
Getting those angles for a hack like me was a BEOTCH!
Chicago
GAWD, that is NICE for you!
Getting those angles for a hack like me was a BEOTCH!
Chicago
Are those prices on the Marlin Site per side or for the pair??
They be a "kit" or pair.
When I bought my trail gear sliders they were $80 (for the pair) + $20 the gusset kit and then Trail Gear had the free shipping for anything over $100.00 Total steal. I think a couple of us did this?
mine are actually the small (58"?) sized ones, since my fenders are "opened up" a bit. I welded round 1/4" scab plates to the frame and then welded the sliders onto those. I can lift the truck from the sliders and they don't budge at all. They're holding up really well, just scapes, no dents. I do wish that I stuck them out a little further (beyond the doors) and maybe layed them flat. Can't beat the price!
How do you do something like this? Do you drill out the frame and run the bolt through the plated section? I think something like this would be great for my crossmember for the toybox and tranny.
Dylan
ntsqd
technerd
Couple different ways to do that. One would be like you mention. Another way is to use Flat Head Socket Head Cap Screws and countersink the back side of those plates, then tack-weld or weld them to keep them from spinning.
Best yet is to drill all of the way through the frame, then open up the holes large enough for a piece of tube that the desired bolt fits through and weld into place on both sides. That way if you strip threads at any time it's a simple fix. It also puts the loads into both sides of the frame tube w/o having a straight-line weld bead (change in cross section = stress riser) up the side of the frame tube.
Best yet is to drill all of the way through the frame, then open up the holes large enough for a piece of tube that the desired bolt fits through and weld into place on both sides. That way if you strip threads at any time it's a simple fix. It also puts the loads into both sides of the frame tube w/o having a straight-line weld bead (change in cross section = stress riser) up the side of the frame tube.
Not sure on how Simon did it, but if you asked Georg or Don they would know. Most likely just drilled through both the frame and plate. Bolts are probably just sitting there.
Way better design then just butt welding your out riggers to the frame.
I would just mount your crossmember like Don does his, clean simple and quick. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=673840
Way better design then just butt welding your out riggers to the frame.
I would just mount your crossmember like Don does his, clean simple and quick. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=673840
Anyone have any "underside pics" of these sliders installed??? I know everyone is setting these at different angles but what is the common gap everyone leaves between the body and the bars??
Mine is MAYBE a 1/2 in...Not much at all.
Not too great of a pic, but its the best I have.
Chicago
Not too great of a pic, but its the best I have.
Chicago
I've got these sliders on my 60. Put them on back in August, and they are slick. A little bit of a pain to get the angles right to the frame, but work for me. I don't have any underside pics from the install, but do I have pics of sliders before install with the legs welded up. They can be seen here, along with more info. IH8MUD Forums - View Single Post - Biography of a Bull
As for the gap between the slider and the rocker, I'm at about 1/2" too, wanted to leave some flex room before coming in contact with the rockers. So far, so good.
Trail Gear 78" (identical product) is selling them for $99. Heck of a deal if you've got a grinder and a welder. With a 1" BL the angles are almost perfectly 90*, clean cuts.
