Market test: Factory E-locker to pneumatic replacement

How much would you value this kit at?

  • 250-350

    Votes: 20 76.9%
  • 350-450

    Votes: 4 15.4%
  • 450+

    Votes: 2 7.7%

  • Total voters
    26

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

quick question I never considered before but just thought of while reading the Aussie Locker thread today..

do air lines ever freeze up when it's below 32 degrees?
 
As soon as I unlock my factory Locker switch, the pressure is released from the cylinder and the spring will bring the collar out of a "locked" status. So, in theory the locker should not cam out itself, the cylinder is responsible for that. Or have I failed to follow along again?
What if the collar tried to cam itself out? Would it be able to push the column of air?
 
What if the collar tried to cam itself out? Would it be able to push the column of air?


OOOOOHHHHHH, I see what you're asking now.... Wow, my apologies. And I don't know, I haven't had it happen to me yet, but I also haven't had the luxury of having this set up for long. My assumption would be no, but we all know what an assumption is good for.
 
The factory locker has a set of springs that keep tension on the fork after the actuator moves, giving the splines time to line up. With your setup what happens if the splines aren't lined up when the locker is engaged? Does pneumatic pressure just keep pushing the fork until it lines up? Also, in the factory setup the rod is pulled back to disengage the locker. In your setup the pressure simply goes away, is it possible that you can damage the shift fork driving gear by waiting for the locker to basically push itself out?

Seems like a cool idea. I've had mine plug up during water crossings because the breather had fallen out (yeah I know operator error, but it happens). This idea seems to take care of any water entry issues.
 
The factory locker has a set of springs that keep tension on the fork after the actuator moves, giving the splines time to line up. With your setup what happens if the splines aren't lined up when the locker is engaged? Does pneumatic pressure just keep pushing the fork until it lines up? Also, in the factory setup the rod is pulled back to disengage the locker. In your setup the pressure simply goes away, is it possible that you can damage the shift fork driving gear by waiting for the locker to basically push itself out?

Seems like a cool idea. I've had mine plug up during water crossings because the breather had fallen out (yeah I know operator error, but it happens). This idea seems to take care of any water entry issues.

This set up operates very comparably to that of the factory e locker just with pneumatic pressure to engage the fork/locker and a spring to retract it once the air pressure has been released through the solenoid that is attached to the air compressor.

When the splines do not line up initially, the locker collar will sit there waiting to engage, just like the factory E-locker. Once the splines are aligned, the pneumatic pressure is strong enough to engage and maintain the locker in its "Locked" position. So, yes will the locker is waiting to engage, the pneumatic pressure keeps it engaged.
 
Here is mine on my fj40. I put a fj80 locked axle in the rear. I have a arb up front so I sold the factory actuator and did this. I used heavy duty angle iron as a plate. This is b4 I wired up the indicator switch. Ive been using this for a couple years now, don't have any current pics. I think engagement and disengagement is a bit slow, I will eventually when I have time install a heavier duty piston to speed up engagement and disengagement, they aren't expensive.
img_20150404_225523317-jpg.1056330
 
The golden rule applies too, the more people I interested or wanting, the less expensive I can make them. At this point, I am hoping to create the first 'purchase list' and allow everyone to confirm their interest by early next week.

Cheers everyone
 
Still searching for more people who would be interested in this kit. At this point, if I can get five people committed the price will be $350 plus shipping. In my eyes, thats a fair price and a great solution to a slow/non-working e-locker!

Cheers!
 
It's ice in the air tank or lines that sticks air lockers in the winter, not corrosion. Not a locker issue really, more of an air supply issue. Either way, the lockers don't engage and you're just spinning your wheels. Sucks b@lls, especially since you know the whole time that if you can just get the :censor: lockers to engage you can drive right out instead of shoveling for a hour in the freezing cold.
Some members have asked about their air lines freezing up in cold weather, well you'll need to follow the golden rule in trucking for air brakes. Drain your air tanks everyday to remove moisture, plus use a air brake antifreeze in the system.
What if the collar tried to cam itself out? Would it be able to push the column of air?
Nukegoat asked if the actuator could "cam itself out" as White stripe said early on in the thread use the largest diameter (larger diameter= more force) air cylinder piston that will fit. Next instead of using a single acting air cylinder with spring return to disengage the locker, think about maybe using a double acting air cylinder to both engage, and disengage the locker.
 
Alright everyone,

Since I have not quite gotten the responses or the interest in this, I am about to cancel the opportunity. I just wanted to update everyone! If you are still interested, reach out to me and we can work something out!

Cheers!
 
I would use a different air cylinder, like a double acting one would be ideal. You can use a single one but would need a return spring on the other end.

71iyfMEHI3L._SL1500_.webp
 
I would use a different air cylinder, like a double acting one would be ideal. You can use a single one but would need a return spring on the other end.

View attachment 1841995
A thought I have, and I don't know if its a valid concern or not, but if you use a double acting cylinder will the cylinder drift without air pressure? For example if you have the locker disengaged, and no air in the system, will the piston slowly walk to engaged since no force is holding it still like a return spring one does? I think you can get pistons with stronger return springs for like another 10 bucks or so.
 
A thought I have, and I don't know if its a valid concern or not, but if you use a double acting cylinder will the cylinder drift without air pressure? For example if you have the locker disengaged, and no air in the system, will the piston slowly walk to engaged since no force is holding it still like a return spring one does? I think you can get pistons with stronger return springs for like another 10 bucks or so.
Yes, if pressure if lost, it could drift out of position. You'd need a dual check valve like this: NGT Valves Online Catalog

And also a dual-acting solenoid to control it all.
 
I would rather have a spring return in the event there is an air issue. For a dual acting and an air failure then the cylinder could be anywhere in between. Doesn't sound very good.
 
I would rather have a spring return in the event there is an air issue. For a dual acting and an air failure then the cylinder could be anywhere in between. Doesn't sound very good.

Unless it's a trail only rig, fully agree. Looked into making these longtime ago. The spring return needs to be strong, the ones we played with were weaker than we felt ideal, way weaker than stock. They can be ordered with a stronger spring. But when setup properly, good breather, etc, factory has proven reliable and now replacements available direct from Aisin for ~1/2 of dealer, don't think air conversion is worth it.
 
Back
Top Bottom