Manual Tranny in 80? (2 Viewers)

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Sep 24, 2003
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www.havasubarney.com
I've been trying to find some more info on the manuals offered in non-US 80's (h150f and h151F) but I'm not having much luck with the usual search tactics.

Has anyone swapped one of these into a US 80?

I'd love to see a pic or two of a factory manual or converted setup.
 
Well if it's in your 91 then something out of a FJ60 might work. I saw a write up of putting a 62 3FE into a 60, so I'd image the tranny swap would be just as easy. All Fj60 sold in the US had 4 speeds but SOR and MAF have rebuilt 5 speeds available.

I'm not real up on those drive trains so I'm sure I'll take it in the shins pretty quick if I'm wrong.
 
Mark4WD lists a V8 kits for 80series 5 spd, so I'm assuming they are refering to the h150/151 manual available in AUS.
 
Sorry Dog

The Landcruiser 5-speed transmission is the H55F, which is used predominantly behind the petrol / diesel engines.

The H151R (think it has an R) is used on the lighter cruisers [prado(sp?) - "Shed Guy" to the defense], and some diesels in the Hilux

The H15x series was found mainly in the hilux line.

The H55F does bolt up to the tractor motor in the 62/80 series. Mark's sells adapters to bolt the H55F to most V8's.

I have seen a 1FZE to a H151R 5-speed tranny in a FJ40!

You can get used / new H55F tranny's from various sources in the US.

Joe
 
I think SOR has had 5 speeds for the 80 series trucks but not sure which engine. We haven't discussed that option to much from what I remember. You should realise that automatics offer better gearing over a manual. This has to do with the torque converter. In first gear and near a dead stop the input/output ratio of the converter is quite high and that translates directly to lower gearing. To achieve the same ability with a manual you would have to drop the diff gearing so low the truck wouldn't be much use on the highway. You can feel the effects of this when driving down the highway and the torque converter unlocks and slips slightly. It almosts feels like a half gear change.
 
I was making the assumption based on this page
http://www.marks4wd.com/lc-80-series-info.htm
and

http://www.timbertoys.org/faq/

Where this page has the 80 models available:
FJ80
L-GNPNEA 3F-E 1/90-8/92 NA 4FC
R-GCMRSQ 3F 1/90-8/92 ARL 5F SOB
R-GNMNSQ 3F 1/90-8/92 ARL 5F LUB GXL
R-GNPNEQ 3F-E 1/90-8/92 ARL 4FC LUB GXL
R-GNPEEQ 3F-E 1/90-8/92 ARL 4FC LUB VX

FZJ80
L-GNPEKA 1FZ-FE 8/92-1/90 NA 4FC
R-GCMRKQ 1FZ-FE 8/92-1/95 ARL 5F SOB
R-GNMNKQ 1FZ-FE 8/92- ARL 5F LUB GXL
R-GNPNKQ 1FZ-FE 8/92- ARL 4FC LUB GXL
R-GNPEKQ 1FZ-FE 8/92- ARL 4FC LUB VX

So according to this a right hand model (1st letter) was available with a 5spd (4th letter is M) in a carb model or later with the V6.
 
everybody listed up.

H151 and H150 trannies are long aluminum 80 series and 70 series 1FZ and 1HD-T trannys (and 80's use them with 1HZ diesels as well NOT IN 70 SERIES). Shifter is in main body of tranny. They never were seen in north America, period. Specter has take outs, but there are about 1.5 million other yards around the world to find one. These use their own transfer case.

R series aluminum trannys are R141, R154, R150, R151 etc. Smaller trannies with cousins used in 4 runners, supras, turbo mini trucks, and 70 series with PZ/HZ engines (like mine trucks 1999-2003) and the 4 spd (R141) in mine trucks with PZ engine. Shifter is in back extension. Will accept a std 1983+-1992 transfer case with correct adapter.

a 1991 FJ80 has a 3F-EFI engine (there are carb models elsewhere). A 3F is a 2F is a F for all block to bellhousing applications. F series engines (NOT FZ) take cast iron manual trannies. Therefore, a H55 (which is a cast iron 5 speed) will bolt to a 1991 FJ80 using a 3F (1985+ US) OR a 2F bellhousing (essentially a type 1974-1980 and b type 1981-1985 use the B type). You could even put a 1974 bellhousing, flywheel, and 4sp US tranny behind a 1991 2F.

You cannot put a H150/1 tranny behind a F series engine and a cast iron tranny will not fit behind a 1FZ engine. since a cast iron tranny sits behind a 1HZ (non Turbo but north american spec 6 cylinder diesel) and a 1HZ takes same bellhousing as 12 valve 1HD-T you can put a cast iron behind a 1HD-T (6 cylinder non US turbo diesel engine).
 
Thanks for the info.

My motivation for asking is if a V8 swap is done, are there manual transmission possibilities.


BTW- I've had and driven both AT and MT trucks and I agree the AT's are probably easier rockcrawlers, but MT is more fun to me on road and general trailriding.
On a MT diesel or 1FZ, does the console where the shifters are remotely stay the same compared to the autos or is the console/transfer case shifter relocated?
 
Not trying to talk you out of it, just wanted you to have all the facts. Some guys get those 4x4 mags out and start making decissions based on what they read about not knowing the full impact of what they intend to do.

A guy in the town next door bought one of those Bummers. What a fiasco! It was a manual and set up for trail. Top speed was something like 45mph. He planned on driving it to work 35 miles each way. That lasted 3 weeks and he was talked into a tranny swap to an automatic. Now redlined at 60mph. Gave up and bought a Honda to go to work in. His initial investment was $28,000 + freight and then the tranny thing, it now sports a plow, is unregistered and never leaves the yard. I just so happened to have bought my 80 at the same time for $30,000, still driving it every day!
 
I drove a manual Land Rover over in Europe once. The shifter had a short throw (for a truck) which was cool.
All my personal cars/trucks have always had manual. Makes me cringe everytime I see an auto in a MR2.
 
Ummm, Landtank WTF are you talking about? Highway speed is all about top gear in tranny, axle and tire size. So just because you had a friend that bought a poorly geared manual means diddly squat. If it was a 4spd manual and he switched to a 3spd auto his top gear remained exactly the same, both top gears are 1:1, in fact with a non-lockup torque converter his rpm's were probably higher . Now if he had a 4spd granny tranny and he switched out to an overdrive auto then there certainly is a change. Most overdriven auto's and manual's are geared relatively close on the overdrive gear (somewhere in the .70 to .85 range). And most all non-overdriven trannies are top geared at 1:1. So that would have little to no effect to final drive ratio. Now if the axle gears are not properly ratioed for the tire size then you run into final gear ratio issues such as your friend had. Now this torque multiplication that you speak of with a torque converter also means heat, which means death to an auto if abused (used to get over every thing). Manual's accomplish this with proper gearing and use of the clutch (which can also be death if abused). You can "cheat" longer with an auto than a manual. If a rig is properly geared it doesn't matter whether it is a manual or a auto, it comes down to preference. Not trying to sound like an a$$, just thought the facts needed to be stated.
 
locrwln,
You totally missed Rick's point. His point had nothing to do with manual vs auto. Clearly, he was simply illustrating that decisions to swim upstream sometimes don't work out.

FYI, Rick knows plenty about final ratios, diff ratios, automatics, etc. He's running 35's and 4.88's in his 1FZ-FE so I think your little lecture was inappropriate.

-B-
 
Thanks for having my back B,

Locrwln, I really don't know the particulars as far as exact trannies but it was originally a 3 speed then I beleive went to a 4 speed auto thinking the OD would do the trick. The point was he really didn't understand the nuts and bolts and bought into what he was sold and basically was real unhappy and took it in the shorts.

As far as the torque multiplication I beleive I'm correct on this. This is not the extreme 4x4 forum so I tend to keep my posts centered around a more broad approach to wheeling since most of these seem to be Daily drivers as well.
 
Isn't the Gearbox behind the 1FZ-FE and 1KZ-TE the same? - If so can't you get one from a 4Runner?

The Gearbox in the FZJ80R is more clunkier and rougher than my BJ40's and the throw isn't all that long either, Also the Clutch has a very short travel and is very light with little feel. - The main problem is supposed to be with the Synchros on second, But I have'nt found this. The only problem I've experianced is that the Synchros on Third clunk loudly and feel really rough, Especially when changing from fourth to third to attack a hill at 60km/h.


P.S. I've never driven any Car with an Automatic Transmission ever. :banana:
 
one thing that's been drummed into alot of aussies is that auto's are great up hills and over stuff, but they run away from you down hill. you know the type you'd use low 1st for in a manual
 
autos do tend to suck a little on the downhills...however...

once Marks4WD gets their bums in gear and releases my crawler box for my t-case (another benefit of a 91) I should be a lot better downhill.
 
""""""" warning thread hijack """""""""""""
Dan,
do you have any more info on the crawl box form marks? is this in the pipeline or just a pipe dream?
Dave
 
91.8 to 1
drrrrrooooooooooolllllllll.
dave
 
Sorry guys just spewing off some stress and unfortunately it was on this board that I let it show. I apologize. :-\
 

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