Making your own Battery Cables, Crimp? Solder? Both?

[RavenTai]

I searched and surprisingly did not find much info on this

I am installing a second battery soon. For now I am looking at using 2/0 cable for both the second battery and to replace the stock cables. Built for a 200A continuous draw, I plan to add a winch later on as funds allow

I have crimped my battery cables in the past and they worked just fine, but I am also considering soldering these,

I did some googling on the subject and there is no consensus, lots of pro’s and con’s for both,

Pro’s
Crimp
Direct copper to copper contact
Hi strength will not pull or vibrate out

Solder
Large conductive contact area (100 %)
Air and water are sealed out

Con’s
Crimp
Not sealed from oxygen and water. Will eventually corrode
Lower contact area

Solder
Solder is not as good a conductor as copper
Lower strength, can rattle out over time
Possible insulation damage from the heat
Hard not to get a cold joint with such large pieces to heat

I can crimp and then solder Or I can crimp and do my best with heat shrink and dielectric grease to seal it up, both negate some of the cons but not all

What makes the most reliable/conductive cable? I think either way I am going to crimp, the question is do I solder after? Is there a tool I can rent to evenly compress (swage ) terminals on to a cable as opposed to the press/hammer a dent in the middle crimpier?

 

[WolfpackTLC]

Use some military style clamps and call it a day!

 

[RavenTai]

are you talking about these?

those are nice definatly plan on using military style battery terminals but I am asking about the cable terminlas

 

[woody]

I crimped mine, and then used some GOOD heat shrink to seal them. GOOD heat shrink is even available in colors, so you can easier ID your connections.

I likewise used 2/0 welding cable for my winch connections...works great, nice and flexible.

Didn't bother with solder anywheres.

 

[ryanjl]

If you want to do both:

You can put the cable terminal into a vice, open end up. Heat it up with a small hand torch, drop an amount of solder in there, put the cable in (terminal still in the vice) and crimp before the solder cools.

Heat shrink it after that to seal it up.

 

[WolfpackTLC]

Oh!

No solder.. unless you REALLY want to.... I'd crimp, using a GOOD crimp tool... and a big sledge hammer. (that's what we use.) Use the heat shrink (as recommended) and slap on some dielectric grease if you're worried about corrosion...

 

[Beowulf]

Wolfpack,

Please post sources and pics of a good crimp tool.

Raven,
Please do a write up of your 2nd battery install; hopefully with pics. This is one of my next projects and I'm always open to stealing other's ideas.

-B-

 

[woody]

I bought my battery cable crimp for $10 at my local welding shop....basically, little 2" square cast based with a V-notch and a steel V-shaped anvil in a groove...insert terminal, insert wire, beat it silly.

 

[Beowulf]

Thanks Woody. I need to get my CO2 tank filled today so I'll check the welding shop that fills it and see if they have the tool.

-B-

 

[Junk]

Made my own crimp tool similiar to what Woodster mentions above (who let the door open so he could sneak in?).

I'd crimp and use the good heat shrink (not the cheap suckie stuff) use different colors if you want, but make sure you can lable right on the heat shrink what it is etc.

Before I started working on my truck, I had two butt-monkeys try to set up my dual system. I don't understand how they fawked it up as it's pretty straight forward, but just take your time and it will come out fine.

BTW, those military terminals are great, but sometimes they are a pain to use with some sets of jumper cables.

 

[alia176]

Yet another option....McMastercarr has lugs that come with solder already inside. You simply stick the stripped wire inside, heat the whole thing with a propane torch and you're done. After that you can still use the hammer and chiesel to crimp some more!

 

[ryanjl]

The propane torch comes in real handy to shrink the heat shrink tube as well. Just don't hold it too close.

 

[cruiserdan]

Wolfpack,

Please post sources and pics of a good crimp tool.

Raven,
Please do a write up of your 2nd battery install; hopefully with pics. This is one of my next projects and I'm always open to stealing other's ideas.

-B-

I have a crimping tool Beo.

 

[Photoman]

-B-,

The crimper in the upper pic can be had at NAPA. FWIW, I use the shrink tube with the adhesive inside which seals the lug and wire after crimping.
Here is one link if you want to get a better crimper.



Dan,

Lower pic. My crimper. Also, works if you want your nuts a little tighter. Since it works with a hex, just insert your nuts and squeeze.

Bill

 

[Junk]

Photoman, something tells me as you have continued to grow old you have used that second one frequently

 

[Beowulf]

>> I have a crimping tool Beo. <<

I've got a rear hub nut socket that I'll swap you for your crimping tool. Deal?

-B-

 

[cruiserdan]

>> I have a crimping tool Beo. <<

I've got a rear hub nut socket that I'll swap you for your crimping tool. Deal?

-B-

I don't think so Tim.......... You see, I know for a fact that you do not have a receipt...

 

[ppc]

I would reconsider the 2/0 and go with 1/0. The larger cable really isn't needed for the lengths you are looking at and will be stiffer to maneuver into tight quarters like a switch.

 

[woody]

if its FINE strand WELD cable and not that useless "battery" cable stuff, it's quite flexible....

tho, agreed, 2/0 is overkill...but aren't most things on a Cruiser? lol

IMO, the winch cable cannot be too large....I use 4ga Marine fine strand for my alternator hookup!

 

[Beowulf]

>> You see, I know for a fact that you do not have a receipt... <<

Man, it would really be a shame if that thing doesn't turn up before inventory time.

-B-