<<<<<"So, in short, we decided not to do it.">>>>>
That's funny......... You meant to do that, didn't you?
That's funny......... You meant to do that, didn't you?
Making your own Battery Cables, Crimp? Solder? Both?
- Thread starter RavenTai
- Start date
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No one has mention the old fashioned swaging tool. I've had these two in my toolbox for at least two dog's ages; fits all size terminals, much easier to work with than the long-handled variety (and much cheaper). Perfect for battery cable work... made by S&F Tool (commonly sold through marine suppliers).
I have crimped with these (without solder), covered with good quality shrink, and have had trouble free service for years.
Cheers, R -
I have crimped with these (without solder), covered with good quality shrink, and have had trouble free service for years.
Cheers, R -
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You can get a swaging tool that looks a lot like the one in Ravens "cheap home made crimper" pic. for about $15 bucks at either Lowe's or Home Depot (I think Lowe's is the one that's got it). I used it to crimp a couple of collars on some high tension aircraft cable, then took it back cause I'd never need it again 
Rookie2
Rookie2
- Thread starter
- #44
ParadiseCruiser said:
I saw that tool mentioned on this sailing page but I did not think it would be large enough for 2/0?, I assume you have the #3? How big is the largest hole? 2/0 has a conductor size of between .414" and .473" depending on witch chart you look at, with the lug that is over .5", will that fit in a swage-it tool? Aircraft spruce has the #3 for $36, they have a store in a neighboring town
Think I am going to go for the crimp no solder, sounds like there can be some embrittlement problems with solder on cables this large
Rookie2 said:You can get a swaging tool that looks a lot like the one in Ravens "cheap home made crimper" pic. for about $15 bucks at either Lowe's or Home Depot (I think Lowe's is the one that's got it). I used it to crimp a couple of collars on some high tension aircraft cable, then took it back cause I'd never need it again
Rookie2
lowes is even Closer, I'll take a look
R -
These tools are stamped, "2" & "3" (the "3" is the largest pictured). The sizes stamped on the "3" tool are 1/8 to 1/4 (relate to swage fittings... ).
The largest die hole on the "3" tool measures approx 9/16" dia (jaws clamped together), but keep in mind that you do not have to tighten the jaws down flush on a terminal to get a good, serviceable crimp, so you have just a fraction more than that to work with on this tool.
Obviously, the best bet to be safe, is to take your largest terminal with you and size it up with the tool you're looking at.
Cheers, R -
These tools are stamped, "2" & "3" (the "3" is the largest pictured). The sizes stamped on the "3" tool are 1/8 to 1/4 (relate to swage fittings... ).
The largest die hole on the "3" tool measures approx 9/16" dia (jaws clamped together), but keep in mind that you do not have to tighten the jaws down flush on a terminal to get a good, serviceable crimp, so you have just a fraction more than that to work with on this tool.
Obviously, the best bet to be safe, is to take your largest terminal with you and size it up with the tool you're looking at.
Cheers, R -
- Thread starter
- #46
ParadiseCruiser said:
9/16 is .562" I'll have to look at some lugs but I think that may work Thanks
>> You can get a swaging tool ... at Lowes <<
Look in the chain section. They were $25 at the Lowes around the corner from me.
-B-
Look in the chain section. They were $25 at the Lowes around the corner from me.
-B-
sandcruiser
....back in the saddle again....
if you are crimping w/o solder, you can fill the terminal with dielectric grease first, then insert wire, crimp, then heat shrink.
That should do a pretty good job of preventing corrosion.
A friend of mine fills his terminals with silicone sealant, then crimps them on. I don't know if there is any problem with corrosion (silicone sealant vents acid, right?) but it certainly seems like it would do a good job of a water resistant terminal.
That should do a pretty good job of preventing corrosion.
A friend of mine fills his terminals with silicone sealant, then crimps them on. I don't know if there is any problem with corrosion (silicone sealant vents acid, right?) but it certainly seems like it would do a good job of a water resistant terminal.
sandcruiser said:
Yes, some types do.
-B-
You'll never get strong enough compression using hand crimping methods. We even find that industrial compression equipment used by wire and cable fabrication houses often doesn't provide appropriate compression for high-current joints. Over the long haul, you'll find silver-soldered joints will yield less corrosion and resistance when compared to crimped connections. For solid-state relay testing, we have an exotic load bank where we can step up current in 40 amp increments from 40 amps to 1,800 amps. We've tested several different types of crimping and soldering techniques and cut the lugs in half to study nature of the bond. Solder, solder, solder.
- Thread starter
- #51
silver solder, that sounds good, much better conductance than lead solder, I have seen silver solder done with stainless engine parts but never wiring,
are tinned copper lugs and tinned coper cable compatible with silver solder? I know there is nickle plated wire but it is very pricey
are tinned copper lugs and tinned coper cable compatible with silver solder? I know there is nickle plated wire but it is very pricey
I hope so, silver solder is common in plumbing.
-Spike
-Spike
Skillet
Skillet
Photoman said:-B-,
The crimper in the upper pic can be had at NAPA. FWIW, I use the shrink tube with the adhesive inside which seals the lug and wire after crimping.
Here is one link if you want to get a better crimper.
Dan,
Lower pic. My crimper. Also, works if you want your nuts a little tighter. Since it works with a hex, just insert your nuts and squeeze.
Bill
Holy Sheeaaat! Here is my crimping tool...
Works damn good I must say.
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I crimped and silver soldered 1/0 welding cable then self sealing heat shrink. I have used the quick cable compresion fittings in the past and they did not like them as much as the standard copper lugs with the blind hole crimped and soldered.
- Thread starter
- #55
-Spike- said:
you mean copper water pipe? I thought that was lead? if it is silver thos parts are bare copper, not tinned,
Use of lead solder is prohibited for use in plumbing.
-Spike
-Spike
Silver is unique in that when it oxidizes, it creates silver oxide which is a conductor which promotes electrical conductivity. When most other metals oxidize, they become an insulator. Over time, the resistivity increases whereas with silver, the exact opposite occurs: it conducts better.
Since you brought this thread up from its 12 year slumber, here's a fun fact- vehicle manufacturers avoid soldering whenever possible, only using it on circuit boards. Not because it's more expensive to solder rather than crimp, but because soldered wire connections break much easier than crimped ones. Solder will wick into the wire strands, taking away the wire's ability to flex with vibrations.
Good quality crimper, good quality lugs correctly matched to the cable size, good quality welding cable, and good quality sealing heatshrink over the crimped connections to the lugs. Easy to make at home.
