Making your own Battery Cables, Crimp? Solder? Both?

[cruiserdan]

>> You see, I know for a fact that you do not have a receipt... <<

Man, it would really be a shame if that thing doesn't turn up before inventory time.

-B-

I'd just invoice you for it...

 

[Junk]

hmm, wanna send me a loaner 1FZ-FE?

Invoice it to B.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I just use the crimper... never had a problem with any of em...

Heres my battery setup...

 

[sleeoffroad]

Picture of dual battery in LX470

We used the cheapy ones but they did not stand up to shop use. Now we use this https://www.delcity.net/tstore/servlet/pagebuilder?frame=catalog_browse&parentid=10380&page=1

Also use heatshrink with glue on the inside. We use 2 gauge welding wire for most dual battery * winch hookups (not 2/0 which is way to big for most applications). In some cases we will use 1/0 when we remote batteries.

 

[Junk]

Picture of dual battery in LX470

Nice switch. Dang I need to get a new one since mine is cracked. Thanks for the reminder. You carry them?

 

[RavenTai]

Wolfpack,
Raven,
Please do a write up of your 2nd battery install; hopefully with pics. This is one of my next projects and I'm always open to stealing other's ideas.

-B-

I am with you most of my best idea’s are stolen, and I will defiantly do a write up

I would reconsider the 2/0 and go with 1/0. The larger cable really isn't needed for the lengths you are looking at and will be stiffer to maneuver into tight quarters like a switch.

Actually considering all the fires in 80’s due to hung starters it may not be as overkill as we would think,

According to the NCF manual the starter may be a 2KW, I don’t know what voltage that is specified at but at nominal 12V that is 166A, if it is rated at cranking voltage 10V? That comes out to 200A witch handily is also a common rating for many battery sized components, a winch can draw +/- 450A for short periods

According to the “AC 43.13” 200A can be carried by 1 gauge wire for 20’. See figures 11-2 & 11-3 on pages 30 & 31, but this is at 20c/68f

The stock cables are a smaller than that and they work fine for turning the starter over for as long as half a minute or so but if asked to carry current for extended periods there could be trouble, a 55AH battery can deliver 200A for 16 minutes


When you add in the under hood temps a 1 gauge cable can only carry 166A (see table 11-9 on page 23) to carry 200A you need 00 witch can carry 222A with a 70c ambient in a bundle as long as the cable is rated for at least 150c


A smaller gauge would likely cause no troubles but I would like to be able to trust it in adverse situations \

When I see the price of 00 cable I may change my mind

 

[woody]

For my 2/0 welding cable, I hit a local welding shop....they had a 18' section in the back already cut, $1.50 a foot....most sections are 25', so this oddball was not sellable.

$2/ft was their regular price, IIRC....a "true" battery shop will bend you over on pricing....

 

[landtank]

Hey Christo, whatever happened to possibly putting a second battery kit together?

 

[dd113]

NAPA sells everything you need. I use 2/0 Marine grade cable and mil spec lugs with solder already inside. Just heat, stuff in the wire and shrink. Use only the very hi end shrink with glue inside. A crimp connection is not as strong as a sloder connection IF the solder connection is done correctly. Everything you need is in the Belden catalog.

 

[sleeoffroad]

Nice switch. Dang I need to get a new one since mine is cracked. Thanks for the reminder. You carry them?

Westmarine

 

[sleeoffroad]

Hey Christo, whatever happened to possibly putting a second battery kit together?

Rick, I believe that one fell of the bottom of the priority list. The amount of effort it takes and the small volume makes it cost prohibitive. Also, the tech support associated with such a product will eat all the profits. This we learned from selling easy plug and play light harnesses.

For some reason automotive 12v power are Greek to some people. The ones that know how it works, can easily do the system. The ones that don't would be dangerous with a bunch of 2 gauge unfused cables connecting batteries together. So, in short, we decided not to do it.

 

[landtank]

Well Christo, if the next time you're installing a system for a customer and you somehow end up with 2 of everything let me know please.

 

[RavenTai]

Here is what I am thinking of for now, very basic, one solenoid, one SPDT center off switch (on/off/on), interconnecting wiring, low parts count lets me buy good stuff on a budget and keeps the wiring easy to install & maintain

Standard SLI battery on DS, some form of deep cycle on the PS, maybe marine starting? Isolated with engine off, PS taking the loads and abuse, DS left pristine for starting, after alt spin-up they parallel to be charged, as long as the alt can keep up with all loads no isolator will be needed, under hood SPDT control switch will give 3 states to the paralleling solenoid,

Auto, described above^

Off, no paralleling truck on or off

Self-Jump, uses PS battery power to close the parallel solenoid so it can power the DS bus (starter ignition fuel pump EFI etc). If the DS battery is dead or shorted it could be removed from the circuit (just take off the DS + battery terminal) and the PS battery could still start the truck.

Winch will be added to the PS battery with a second solenoid some how (later) thinking about adding 200A fuses right at the + terminals of both batteries,

I wanted to split the 80’s electrical system in half, putting ignition EFI ABS fuel pump lockers and all other necessary loads to run the drive-train on the DS (get out of the woods with dead alt and/or 1 dead battery) , everything else (phone accessories lights radio etc) on the PS, I was hoping the fusible links would be divided like that but after looking into it looks like I would have to go to the fuse box level to do so, with is way to much work and tampering with a known good thing

 

[Outback]

I used something totally different. I used "compression" fittings. Slidet the threaded compression ring on the cable with about 1/2" stripped then put a bunch of dielectric grease in the lug/terminal end and tightened it all down. Damn!! That makes a tight/good fitting!!

I've had them on for several years now and have had no problems. Used both lugs and terminal ends on new wire. Will not use anything else now.

Jody.

 

[RavenTai]

thise are interesting, the compressed copper of the wire will make good contact, reusable/repairable searched arround the range from 2-5$ a piece, where did you get them at?

 

[bjowett]

I love those damn things! they are made by Quick Cable http://www.quickcable.com

Even use em' for the lugs on my winch line.

I should be a dealer for them soon, if you can't wait, try www.solarseller.com

 

[Outback]

Got them at O'Reilly Auto parts. I'm sure NAPA or other places have them as well. Yeah, they were $3.xx or so apiece. Kinda expensive, but I'll never have to worry about them. Ever.

Jody.

 

[bjowett]

Kinda expensive, but I'll never have to worry about them. Ever.

... and if for some wierd reason one should fail, you can R&R it on the trail with common tools.

 

[RavenTai]

http://www.mail-archive.com/ev@listproc.sjsu.edu/msg04930.html

interesting read on the subject, still no consensus


cheap home made crimper

http://www.haritech.com/crimp.htm

 

[Junk]

Yup. I got some of that on the new winchline I just got. Dang good stuff, both the line and that hardware. Hope to post up some pics tomorrow of my winching me truck today using the new rope. Heehee, just had to test it.