Ive been restoring my 1974 FJ40 and i have redone all the brakes on it, i mean everything. Master cylinder, shoes, brake cylinders, lines, bleeders, and all the connections. The only thing that i didnt get new was the drums because they were like brand new. I went to test it out yesterday in our driveway to see if everything works, come to find out i didnt have any brakes what so ever. Im just clueless of what the problem could be. I bled the brakes, i made sure that the master cylinder reservoirs were full, and i adjusted the brakes like the Haynes book said to. I just cant imagine what the problem is. Help is much needed and very appreciated.
Major Brake Problems
- Thread starter tkerkela
- Start date
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Did you properly bleed the master cylinder? You need to bench bleed a new master before installing it. Do they work at all, meaning if you have a wheel off and you spin the drum by hand, and then spin it by hand with someone pushing the break pedal is there a difference, A poorly bled system may not stop the vehicle, but should still at least expand the shoes enough to hear a difference.
^^^ That is your first problem. Doing it that way, as you found out, leaves you with no brakes. The way to adjust drum brakes is to adjust the pads all the way out until the wheel won't turn. Back off a couple of clicks on each cylinder so that when you give the wheel a good hard spin, it will maybe go around 1 full rotation but not more. You want the shoes to drag. This way, they will wear in correctly. Do this for all 4 wheels and you should be good.
Good luck!
Did you read Coolerman's Brake 101? I followed his procedures a few weeks ago. It took me a little while to adjust the wheel cylinders until the vehicle did not pull. Note: I did not turn the drums or anything as I am planning a disk brake install. If I press too hard I lock up, I also have about 1" of play before the brakes take affect.
To correct brake pulling, I drove down a dirt road and paid attention to which tires where locking up, causing the pull. Sometimes it was the back and sometimes the front. Adjusted as needed. Then repeated on pavement (took more pressure on brake pedal to lock up). You know that you retarded (backed off) too much when the pedal goes to the floor and not much happens. I adjusted the cylinders until I was comfortable with braking response.
Remember that if you move the handle end of the screw driver/adjusting tool from axle to outer wheel will expand the pads toward the brake drum, thus increasing breaking response.
To correct brake pulling, I drove down a dirt road and paid attention to which tires where locking up, causing the pull. Sometimes it was the back and sometimes the front. Adjusted as needed. Then repeated on pavement (took more pressure on brake pedal to lock up). You know that you retarded (backed off) too much when the pedal goes to the floor and not much happens. I adjusted the cylinders until I was comfortable with braking response.
Remember that if you move the handle end of the screw driver/adjusting tool from axle to outer wheel will expand the pads toward the brake drum, thus increasing breaking response.
In complete agreement with these guys.
You have air in the lines most likely.
Take a wheel off and have someone else pump to see if you see any action.
If your pads were too far in then a couple of pumps should at least get them touching.
Make sure when you bleed that the "return" tubes are completely submerged.
Tapping the MC with a brass drift or other solid object will drive out a few more bubbles as well.
Good luck,
Brog
You have air in the lines most likely.
Take a wheel off and have someone else pump to see if you see any action.
If your pads were too far in then a couple of pumps should at least get them touching.
Make sure when you bleed that the "return" tubes are completely submerged.
Tapping the MC with a brass drift or other solid object will drive out a few more bubbles as well.
Good luck,
Brog
