LX570 AHC Globe/Accumulator Replacement (6 Viewers)

[kwelhand]

I’m about to change my globe this week.
What’s the torque spec when installing a new globe?
Read all 9 pages but didn’t see the torque spec or perhaps I missed it.

 

[32cls6speedmt]

111 lb. I think.

 

[kwelhand]

111 lb. I think.

Wow… that’s much higher than what I have expected.

 

[04UZJ100]

Wow… that’s much higher than what I have expected.

It’s one of the larger diameter threaded connections on the truck.

 

[kwelhand]

It’s one of the larger diameter threaded connections on the truck.

Makes sense… thanks.

 

[tincan45]

Finally swapped out my globes @ 124K. I thought I would share a few tips from my experience. I also have a slightly modified procedure list to ensure you never run your reservoir dry and avoid any error codes.

UPDATED GLODE REPLACE PROCEDURE (Just my method, not Toyotas - YMMV)

1 - Start in LOW with fluid just over MAX fill
2- Bleed DF then DR and replace globes (torque to 111ft lbs )
3 - Start car and let the system suck up fluid (Should be just below MIN line after a minute) *DO NOT RAISE TO NEUTRAL*
4 - Add fluid to MAX line again and cycle a couple times between LO and N then drop back to LOW.
5 - Check fluid and fill to MAX line
6 - Move to passenger side

7 - Bleed PF and PR and replace globes (torque to 111ft lbs )
8 - Start car and let the system suck up fluid (Should be just below MIN line after a minute) *DO NOT RAISE TO NEUTRAL*
9 - Add fluid to MAX line again and cycle a couple times between LO and N and leave in N
10 - Fill fluid to MAX line and cycle LO, N, HI a couple times.
11 - Check fluid level and look for leaks.

You will use about 2.5 liters (1 can)

OPTIONAL

After replacing globes you can re-bleed the entire system. I recommend this if you have over 60K on your current fluid. Otherwise, just make a note and do your next bleed when it has 60K on it. Mine had 30K on it and didn't look bad so I just tossed the fluid I lost in the globe replacement and scheduled another bleed in 30K.


The rear guard bolt from hell

As others have mentioned, the rear bolt on the AHC guard is a royal pain. Use this wrench combo and it's pretty easy. If you brace your extension on the step mount and wrap a couple fingers over the socket from the rear it will give you the support you need to get these out easily. When it comes time to re-install, I suggest a small a mount of wd-40 on the threads so you can spin them back in w/o much resistance. Any resistance can bind the extension because of the odd angle. I realize these instructions will only make sense if you get under there and try it yourself.

Buy the fluid transfer pump (Thanks @tbisaacs!)

While I was still able to make a pretty spectacular mess with the AHC fluid, it was nothing like the last time I bled the system. I will never do this job again without the $8 fluid transfer pump from harbor freight. Not to mention, it includes tubes sizes that work great for the AHC bleeding...bonus!

All done!

Driving impressions.

All three modes were tighter. The biggest difference was in comfort. It wasn't nearly as bouncy but still had the floaty ride. I like to be in comfort on long highway rides and I was starting to notice the bounce. I could also tell what others have mentioned about much better absorption over small cracks and ruts especially in N. Sport mode was much tighter as well. Glad I finally did this will schedule it again at 240K

 

[04UZJ100]

You can fill the reservoir significantly over the MAX line during bleeding to ensure you don’t run out. There is no risk to overfilling while stationary in a driveway.

 

[tincan45]

You can fill the reservoir significantly over the MAX line during bleeding to ensure you don’t run out. There is no risk to overfilling while stationary in a driveway.

Yes. I guess you could skip a couple filling steps by filling as much as possible on first bleed. Thanks!

 

[kwelhand]

Finally swapped out my globes @ 124K. I thought I would share a few tips from my experience. I also have a slightly modified procedure list to ensure you never run your reservoir dry and avoid any error codes.

UPDATED GLODE REPLACE PROCEDURE (Just my method, not Toyotas - YMMV)

1 - Start in LOW with fluid just over MAX fill
2- Bleed DF then DR and replace globes (torque to 111ft lbs )
3 - Start car and let the system suck up fluid (Should be just below MIN line after a minute) *DO NOT RAISE TO NEUTRAL*
4 - Add fluid to MAX line again and cycle a couple times between LO and N then drop back to LOW.
5 - Check fluid and fill to MAX line
6 - Move to passenger side

7 - Bleed PF and PR and replace globes (torque to 111ft lbs )
8 - Start car and let the system suck up fluid (Should be just below MIN line after a minute) *DO NOT RAISE TO NEUTRAL*
9 - Add fluid to MAX line again and cycle a couple times between LO and N and leave in N
10 - Fill fluid to MAX line and cycle LO, N, HI a couple times.
11 - Check fluid level and look for leaks.

You will use about 2.5 liters (1 can)

OPTIONAL

After replacing globes you can re-bleed the entire system. I recommend this if you have over 60K on your current fluid. Otherwise, just make a note and do your next bleed when it has 60K on it. Mine had 30K on it and didn't look bad so I just tossed the fluid I lost in the globe replacement and scheduled another bleed in 30K.


The rear guard bolt from hell

As others have mentioned, the rear bolt on the AHC guard is a royal pain. Use this wrench combo and it's pretty easy. If you brace your extension on the step mount and wrap a couple fingers over the socket from the rear it will give you the support you need to get these out easily. When it comes time to re-install, I suggest a small a mount of wd-40 on the threads so you can spin them back in w/o much resistance. Any resistance can bind the extension because of the odd angle. I realize these instructions will only make sense if you get under there and try it yourself.

View attachment 3049271

Buy the fluid transfer pump (Thanks @tbisaacs!)

While I was still able to make a pretty spectacular mess with the AHC fluid, it was nothing like the last time a bled the system. I will never do this job again without the $8 fluid transfer pump from harbor freight. Not to mention, it includes tubes sizes that work great for the AHC bleeding...bonus!
View attachment 3049291

All done!

View attachment 3049293

Driving impressions.

All three modes were tighter. The biggest difference was in comfort. It wasn't nearly as bouncy but still had the floaty ride. I like to be in comfort on long highway rides and I was stating to notice the bounce. I could also tell what others have mentioned about much better absorption of the small cracks and ruts especially in N. Sport mode was much tighter as well. Glad I finally did this will schedule it again at 240K

Mother of all AHC service instructions!
I'm going to do it this week... will help me & others tremendously!

P.S. I was watching one of the AHC video w/ globe change.
The guy said raise to neutral as soon as you finish one side w/ globe change.
Any particular reason not to raise to Neutral position?

 

[tincan45]

Any particular reason not to raise to Neutral position

After step 3 it will be just below minimum level. The new fluid cycles into the new globes quickly. Going to neutral could potentially pull too much fluid out of the reservoir. Going to high at this point will definitely drain the tank. You could also do like @04UZJ100 mentioned and overfill the reservoir at step #1. The goal here is to never let your reservoir go below the minimum line. The steps above are really just a check figure to force you to always keep the fluid level up. I would argue this is the #1 reason for AHC issues after servicing.

 

[kwelhand]

The goal here is to never let your reservoir go below the minimum line. The steps above are really just a check figure to force you to always keep the fluid level up. I would argue this is the #1 reason for AHC issues after servicing.

Thank you... I think this is one of the most important steps in serving AHC.
Did you suck out dirty fluid out of reservoir prior to perform Globe and AHC fluid service?

Mine has close to 170K... you suggested to bleed the system again and I think this is a must procedure for older car w/ unknown AHC service history.
Could you share the proper bleeding procedure after the initial 4 globes and 1 can of AHC fluid swap?

Thanks for the awesome yet concise AHC service instruction for AHC newbies like myself.

 

[04UZJ100]

For what it’s worth. I’ve done 2 flushes and did not evacuate the reservoir of fluid. Flushing 5L thru the system is more than enough to get fresh fluid to the components and see a noticeable improvement in fluid quality at the bleeders.

 

[kwelhand]

For what it’s worth. I’ve done 2 flushes and did not evacuate the reservoir of fluid. Flushing 5L thru the system is more than enough to get fresh fluid to the components and see a noticeable improvement in fluid quality at the bleeders.

That makes sense... for the newbies, everything about AHC self-servicing is scary.
Thanks for sharing!

 

[tincan45]

For what it’s worth. I’ve done 2 flushes and did not evacuate the reservoir of fluid. Flushing 5L thru the system is more than enough to get fresh fluid to the components and see a noticeable improvement in fluid quality at the bleeders.

I agree. Such a small amount of the total system fluid is in the reservoir I never understood this. If you bleed after globe replacement you have more than enough fluid through the system.

 

[TeCKis300]

You can fill the reservoir significantly over the MAX line during bleeding to ensure you don’t run out. There is no risk to overfilling while stationary in a driveway.

Agreed. I filled 3/4 to the brim when replacing globes and shocks. It pulled down like no other to re-fill the system. It's fine to do that. The max line is there for final adjustment once the system is purged and full. As the reservoir needs to keep room for fluid when AHC is put into low.

 

[kwelhand]

Huge thanks to @tincan45
Just replaced 4 globes and complete flush of AHC.

Just wanted to add something.
When replacing globes, please purchase a set of bottom washer and install them accordingly.




Without the bottom washer (see the gap below the rubber gasket)

With Toyota gasket - the rubber ring is now filmily seated and doesn't move around or shows any visible gap.

Part# is shown on the pic:

Also, after installation of bottom split gasket, please please seat it correctly and not like shown on the pic.
All you have to do is move around your fingers until it is fully seated.... very important.
Don't just assume it's installed correctly and move on.
Check and check again before installing your globe.

 

[TeCKis300]

Huge thanks to @tincan45
Just replaced 4 globes and complete flush of AHC.

Just wanted to add something.
When replacing globes, please purchase a set of bottom washer and install them accordingly.




Without the bottom washer (see the gap below the rubber gasket)
View attachment 3051113



With Toyota gasket - the rubber ring is now filmily seated and doesn't move around or shows any visible gap.
View attachment 3051120





Part# is shown on the pic:
View attachment 3051129





Also, after installation of bottom split gasket, please please seat it correctly and not like shown on the pic.
All you have to do is move around your fingers until it is fully seated.... very important.
Don't just assume it's installed correctly and move on.
Check and check again before installing your globe.
View attachment 3051130

This detail may have been buried. It's not clear that a backup washer is necessary any longer with more recently manufactured globes. This was my finding:

- Backup washer not needed. My original 2009 globes had them. Difference is that the rubber o-ring seat/channel on the original globes were much wider - hence the need for a backup "spacer" washer. The new globes have narrower o-ring channels. Old globes 4.5mm channel, with 1.4mm backup "spacer" washer. New globes 3.2mm channel.

 

[jflow88]

i have a 2011 LX with 96k miles, I checked my AHC fluid tank today and it looks empty, bone dry, however the system still works, I have an appt scheduled next week for my mechanic to check it out, hoping for the best! In reviewing the scheduled maintenance documents, looks like it should have been changed around 75k, i bet it wasn't done.

it wasn't empty, it was fine, but my LX has an aftermarket undercarriage coating that made it so a light underneath did nothing, also when I go up large hills, like the cottonwood canyons in utah, the cats get really hot and burn some of the coating, smells annoying

 

[kwelhand]

This detail may have been buried. It's not clear that a backup washer is necessary any longer with more recently manufactured globes. This was my finding:

- Backup washer not needed. My original 2009 globes had them. Difference is that the rubber o-ring seat/channel on the original globes were much wider - hence the need for a backup "spacer" washer. The new globes have narrower o-ring channels. Old globes 4.5mm channel, with 1.4mm backup "spacer" washer. New globes 3.2mm channel.

Yes, I read mixed review from both sides.
It seems like no one experienced any leakage because of missing split bottom washer or addition of that same washer.
It feels like the washer made the o ring more tightly seated but who knows the actual benefit.


While adding fresh AHC fluid, I used the clear funnel w/ built in strainer to filter out any possible contamination of AHC fluid.
Worked great but that harbor freight pump was even easier to use.

 

[Five70]

@tincan45 awesome write up, thanks! Where did you get your globes?