LX470 HID Retrofit Project (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 19, 2012
Threads
7
Messages
74
Location
Fort Worth, TX
Hey guys, after reading so many threads about HIDs on our trucks I decided to take the plunge and try it out myself. I was really tired of looking at my old yellowed and cracked plastic headlights, and also really tired of their abysmal light output. I read all of Lou's thread on his bracket that he was making and I was sold, he did really solid work. So here is what I bought:
  • New OEM glass headlights
  • Morimoto Mini D2S 5.0 projectors
  • Morimoto XB 35W ballasts
  • Osram 66240 CBB bulbs
  • Two H1 to 9006 adapters
  • Two High Beam Splitters (9005/9006)
  • Extra sealant in case I needed it (TRS calls it RetroRubber)
  • Two 3" PVC rubber end caps
  • Headlight Protection Film from XPEL
Hardware:
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Ballast Mounting Kit:
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When I started I had the luxury of taking my time, because I didn't actually need to finish them in order to drive my car since these were new headlights. I started with the passenger side headlight, took it all apart, and started to investigate how all the parts would fit together etc. I kept thinking of a way to trim the shroud to fit the projector, and nothing was going to be easy. So I started doing some more digging. And what I decided was that the shroud didn't really need to be trimmed at all if you place the projector far back enough in the housing. I know there is a large range of mechanical skill levels between the average user on this forum, and I probably fall on the more advanced side. I decided that while the kit was VERY well put together, I just didn't want to trim the shroud, especially seeing as the glass eye of the projector fits in the shroud no problem.

Okay, so I went to work. I made some templates out of paper first, then as I felt they were fairly on point, I started making some prototype brackets out of wood. I went through a lot of iterations, but the wood cuts fast and it was cheap. It took a lot of trial and error to get a single piece bracket that would clear everything and use all the factory hardware, but in the end, I got it.

Then I decided I didn't want to mount the ballast the way everyone else was doing it. I wanted to attach it to the bottom of the headlight. So I made some brass bushings to press into the housing, and used those to attach an aluminum plate to mount the ballast to. I also didn't want to use a relay harness since I was using a 35W ballast, so I wired the ballast directly to the OEM harness.


Here was my Process:
Step one, remove the vertical adjustment piece and the 4 metal clips that help secure the glass to the housing.
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Step 2: Bake at 285 for 8 minutes. In this step I would get it mostly pulled off, but from me handling the headlight so long it would start to cool. You want to do this slowly so you don't crack the glass. I would put it back in for 4 minutes and by this time I was usually good to pull the glass all the way off. Also, as others have suggested, set the headlight on wood so the metal rack doesn't damage the plastic housings.

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Step 3: Remove the stock projector and replace with new bracket. Transfer all mounting pieces to the new bracket.

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Step 4: Screw projector to bracket
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Step 5: Press in brass bushings
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Step 6: Put shroud back on, put glass back on, and bake again for 8 minutes at 285.

Step 7: Now that the glass is back on, attach the ballast. (picture doesn't have the glass, it was a test fit before I put the glass back on)
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Step 8: Cut stock wire connector and the 9005 to H1 adapter wire. I spliced these together.

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Here is a picture of the new headlights, but one has the factory projector, the other has the Morimoto one. The factory is the smaller one on the left.

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Here is a shot of the nasty plastic headlight that was original to the car.
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Here is some of the work that went into making the parts:
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Holy cow, very nice.

I've got a set of Lou's brackets and have been talking to both he and Nick @ TRS about this same hardware set up to replace my TSX set up. I'd been wondering if there would be a way to mount the projector further back to avoid opening the shroud more.

I kept thinking of a way to trim the shroud to fit the projector, and nothing was going to be easy. So I started doing some more digging. And what I decided was that the shroud didn't really need to be trimmed at all if you place the projector far back enough in the housing.

To clarify, did you use Lou's brackets or did you make your own? And what did you do to mount the projector further back? Just turned the adjustments enough to pull it as far back as possible? I was about to pull the trigger on all of the new parts I'd need but now I'm seeing your new glass lights and getting jealous... :hmm: Might need to save a few more scheckles for a new set.

In other news, I'll be selling my TSX set up with the projectors and OEM brackets already modded to fit right into our housings.
 
Very clean. Group buy?
Thanks! Sorry this is just a personal project, the brackets not only would be more expensive than Lou's kit, but I also don't have the time to run something like this.

Holy cow, very nice.

I've got a set of Lou's brackets and have been talking to both he and Nick @ TRS about this same hardware set up to replace my TSX set up. I'd been wondering if there would be a way to mount the projector further back to avoid opening the shroud more.



To clarify, did you use Lou's brackets or did you make your own? And what did you do to mount the projector further back? Just turned the adjustments enough to pull it as far back as possible? I was about to pull the trigger on all of the new parts I'd need but now I'm seeing your new glass lights and getting jealous... :hmm: Might need to save a few more scheckles for a new set.

In other news, I'll be selling my TSX set up with the projectors and OEM brackets already modded to fit right into our housings.

It may be possible, but I didn't experiment around with it very hard. Ask Lou he will definitely know the answer. So the bracket I made were made from a 1/2" thick piece of 6061 aluminum and the mounting surface for the projector is recessed in the bracket to allow the depth. It was also that thick to accommodate the tab on the bottom that needs to be kicked out a bit in order to work properly with the adjustment screw. I cannot recommend the glass headlights enough, simply amazing. If you get them, don't forget to get some type of film protection for them to keep them looking brand new.
 
Did the same thing. Well, had Lou do the same thing :hillbilly:

My before/after on the housings looked the same. Good lord what a difference.
 
Wow that looks awesome, great job on the bracket! Man what I would give to have a CNC router and lathe....gotta love big boy toys;)
 
Awesome job. I plan on doing this mod in the next 6 months. I already have the glass lens headlights, also the cnc router and lathe. Now I just need to get the rest of the materials and parts. I love how your projectors sit back further. I will design mine the same. Unless you will sell me your file. 😁
 
This is on top of my list. That's a great idea to install on new glass headlights. Where did you guys order the headlights? I thought they were all plastic.
 
The earlier years were glass — '98-...'02? The only difference between new/old is the lens material.
 
Thanks for all the compliments guys. You can get the headlights form any lexus dealer or from Lou who is at a lexus dealer.


Wildtoy check your inbox

EDIT: igniters turned out to be faulty, after replacing they work well now.
 
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Side note, plugging directly into the OEM harness has shown a problem. The headlights don't always turn on on the first try. I have to turn the lights off, then flip it back on, and sometimes several times to get them both on. It's very annoying, and should not be happening. The only thing I can think of that would be causing an issue is the OEM relay. I'll investigate more and let you all know what I find.

Mine occasionally still does that even with the Morimoto relay harness. I can always get it to work eventually, so I'm putting it off until it's not so cold out anymore.
 

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