I know this topic has been beaten to death, but I've never really seen posts where the issue is resolved. I have a 2017 LX 570 and lose all audio at times. The in dash display works as normal, sans volume display. However, there's no audio whatsoever. No voice prompt, no sound from the SOS button. The rear entertainment system also does not power on when the audio issue occurs. The diagnostic shows ncon while this occurs and has a previously recorded EMV-M of B15D0 and B15D3 that occurred two months prior. Also, the drivers side rear monitor will not display video, but it works fine with everything else. In some posts here as well as other forums people have stated that it was the amp, but after replacing it, it was only a matter of time before the issue returned. Others mentioned that they believed it to be the multimedia module. Any ideas? This happens intermittently and almost always upon starting the vehicle
LX 570 no audio... at times
- Thread starter Plplayer
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I have a 2016 LX570 and it has just begun having this no audio issue. However, in my case, audio has never returned (happened several days ago). Have pulled the amp out and reinstalled and confirmed the fans are running. Have also tried (unsuccessfully) to jumper around the RSE module. Tht connection is so small and getting the jumper wires to stay and not touch and go to ground is difficult.
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For me, due to the it being intermittent, I'm unable to have the dealership diagnose the issue. I make an appointment and boom! It works perfectly again. When the issue occurs the main amp's fans aren't running. Upon discussing with the service tech, they informed me the issue needed to be present during diagnostics. I mentioned the stored code and they didn't care. The local Toyota dealership won't touch it and the nearest lexus dealership is nearly 150 miles away. I can't even get the lexus service advisor to return my call.
if the amp's fans aren't running when the problem occurs it could a problem related to power - is there possibility of water damage? There could be 'green' coated terminals or connections
Had your windshield replaced in recent months?
Water leaks from a damaged cowl and seal to lower window or alternative a sunroof drain plugging can get water in the A-pillar and lower parts with main vehicle electrical connectors and the stereo amp.
Water leaks from a damaged cowl and seal to lower window or alternative a sunroof drain plugging can get water in the A-pillar and lower parts with main vehicle electrical connectors and the stereo amp.
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Yes, the windshield was replaced before all of this started. We had heavy rain and I noticed the A pillar was wet. Took it in and had it leak tested, no leaks. The sunroof drains were clogged and that's what caused the water intrusion. The problem is intermittent. Worked fine for weeks and then earlier tonight it didn't. Came home and about 15 minutes later I went back out and audio was playing fine. When this occurs I have zero power to the rear entertainment system. It also throws two codes. B15D0 and B15D3. I can never get it in the shop while the audio isn't working. Mysteriously I can pull into the dealership with no audio and when they go to check, audio is working
For me, the windshield has not been replaced. My amp fans are working. I am going to send the amp in the OEM Auto Audio. They said they would charge a $25 bench test fee to confirm the amp is not the issue. If not, the rear entertainment module (under the passenger seat) becomes the next likely culprit. I did check the 2 fuses in the footwell fuse box already.
I've had this issue on my 2014 LX570 since spring 2024. No volume on screen. Zero audio - Not intermittent. No change to the vehicle prompted this - it just happened on it's own. I have had both rear screens removed since purchasing the truck used in 2020 with no issues.
The on screen diagnostics gave me the same B15D0 error code.
I live in a remote area and took the truck to a shop specializing in electrical in the spring of 2024. They determined that the culprit was the multimedia module under the passenger seat. A direct replacement of the part number was VERY expensive - over $3,000. I took the truck back and after much research determined that the part number for my multimedia module was a bit of a unicorn. The module in the truck had part number 88110-60090. When I called Lexus and provided my VIN, they indicated they'd sell me a replacement module 86104-60010. This part is much more affordable (about $1200 from Japan). I ordered it. It, from the outside, is identical to the one in the truck aside from the part number. I swapped it in and... nothing. Our summer road trip was powered by a portable bluetooth speaker in the cupholder. I also tried the jumper concept identified in other threads - no success.
In the fall, I removed the mark levinson amp under the drivers seat for inspection, only for OEM Auto Audio to recommend I check for fan operation. I reinstalled it... fans appear to be working. From there, I've run out of steam (And time).
My plan is to take it back to the shop I was working with a year ago and ask them kindly to solve the problem. I doubt this is helpful... but at least know you're not alone!
The on screen diagnostics gave me the same B15D0 error code.
I live in a remote area and took the truck to a shop specializing in electrical in the spring of 2024. They determined that the culprit was the multimedia module under the passenger seat. A direct replacement of the part number was VERY expensive - over $3,000. I took the truck back and after much research determined that the part number for my multimedia module was a bit of a unicorn. The module in the truck had part number 88110-60090. When I called Lexus and provided my VIN, they indicated they'd sell me a replacement module 86104-60010. This part is much more affordable (about $1200 from Japan). I ordered it. It, from the outside, is identical to the one in the truck aside from the part number. I swapped it in and... nothing. Our summer road trip was powered by a portable bluetooth speaker in the cupholder. I also tried the jumper concept identified in other threads - no success.
In the fall, I removed the mark levinson amp under the drivers seat for inspection, only for OEM Auto Audio to recommend I check for fan operation. I reinstalled it... fans appear to be working. From there, I've run out of steam (And time).
My plan is to take it back to the shop I was working with a year ago and ask them kindly to solve the problem. I doubt this is helpful... but at least know you're not alone!
If you're having electrical issues and you suspect water is the culprit, you should try a few things:
- Clean the sunroof drains. Use 18" of trimmer line to gently clear any debris that may be in the drain tube near the sunroof. Rinse with warm water. Inspect how quickly it comes out behind the front wheel. When I did mine, the drivers side drained slowly, so I repeated the process and rinsed with warm water a few more times.
- Remove kick panels and door sill panels. Check for moisture and use a 10mm socket to unplug those kick panel multiconnectors and see if there is any corrosion. Clean with Deoxit if so.
- Inspect dash under/around/behind the cabin air filter. If you find any moisture, it's a good idea to pull every connector and check for water.
- You should also take a look under the cowl grille. Remove your wipers with a 14mm (I think?) socket. There are trim pieces on the sides of the engine bay that pull off toward the front to reveal bolts that hold the cowl grille in place. Remove those bolts and disconnect the wiper fluid hose. The cowl grille will pull away from the windshield straight forward. Helps if two people pull, one on each side. Pull gently but firmly; you don't want to snap any tabs. You can see straight down in to where your cabin air filter sits. If there are any signs of water, or if your weatherstripping is messed up like mine was, getchu a new one. P/N 55708-60101 for my 2009 LX. It's not difficult to replace.
Once you check/pull the cowl, I would install a DIY deflector to the HVAC inlet. This will guarantee no water ingress into the HVAC and passenger footwell via that route in case the single seal between the cowl and winshield start leaking (old age or post a windshield replacement). Only downside maybe max air flow from outside, then again i drive most of the time in recirc mode for general health, keeping all fumes and brake dust out of the vehicle, so it does not matter for my use case. When I want fresh air I actually open a side window.
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- #11
I'm at my wits end with this issue. I went a month with zero problems. Started it today and the issue is back. No audio, no volume on display, both infotainment and HUD, no power to the rear monitors. Came home and parked it. Went back out about a half hour later and it's working again. I just don't get it. One thing that has always been constant is I have no video signal to one of the rear monitors. All of the info shows on the screen, just no video. Over the summer I did have a water intrusion from a clogged sunroof drain. The A-pillar was wet on the drivers side. I've been to multiple dealerships, but it always starts working again when they start it up. I planned on bypassing the RSE module, but it starts working again. I also lose voice commands when this occurs. I plan on checking the connections behind the kick panels. I was also wondering if the leak could've caused issues with the tweeter on the A-pillar. I just don't understand why it's intermittent
I hesitate to respond to this, because I am not fully having the issue, but had a set of circumstances where I did have the issue. So I am posting it in case someone smarter than me can make a connection with it. I have a 2017 LX.
A little over 2 years ago, I had to replace the OEM Panasonic battery. I wanted to get the best replacement that I could, but apparently didn't research well enough. I bought an expensive AGM Optima battery in form factor 27F. It worked great for two years. This winter, with the cold (I live in New Hampshire), the battery was dying often. It also didn't help that I work from home and sometimes can go weeks without driving. I blamed the battery dying on those issues. I would jump it, drive it, and recharge it.
The related bit here is that sometime after jumping it, I would experience this No Audio issue. The volume knob did nothing, etc. Usually, once the battery was charged, it would work again after I turned the vehicle off and then back on again.
Anyway, the battery issues got worse and worse until it would no longer recharge from driving. That is when I saw that you really shouldn't use an AGM battery in a vehicle not designed for it, or without modifications to the computer and/or the alternator. I replaced it a few weeks ago with a lead acid battery and there have been no problems since.
I just thought it was interesting that the AGM battery issues caused me to have these same no audio issues, so I thought I would mention it in case there is some connection to be made here.
A little over 2 years ago, I had to replace the OEM Panasonic battery. I wanted to get the best replacement that I could, but apparently didn't research well enough. I bought an expensive AGM Optima battery in form factor 27F. It worked great for two years. This winter, with the cold (I live in New Hampshire), the battery was dying often. It also didn't help that I work from home and sometimes can go weeks without driving. I blamed the battery dying on those issues. I would jump it, drive it, and recharge it.
The related bit here is that sometime after jumping it, I would experience this No Audio issue. The volume knob did nothing, etc. Usually, once the battery was charged, it would work again after I turned the vehicle off and then back on again.
Anyway, the battery issues got worse and worse until it would no longer recharge from driving. That is when I saw that you really shouldn't use an AGM battery in a vehicle not designed for it, or without modifications to the computer and/or the alternator. I replaced it a few weeks ago with a lead acid battery and there have been no problems since.
I just thought it was interesting that the AGM battery issues caused me to have these same no audio issues, so I thought I would mention it in case there is some connection to be made here.
Check your kick panel connectors as well as pull every fuse and inspect under the drivers side as well as the fuse block in the engine compartment. Look for corrosion. If you see any signs of corrosion in the fuse block yank it and clean it with deoxit or replace it.
Seems the OP has water ingress either via the HVAC inlet under the cowl or a badly glued windshield or trim clips leaking or sunroof drain plugging or roof rack mounts leaking or an unlikely combination of the above and this affects the electrical connectors, the main ones in the passenger A-pillar and or directly “watering” his amplifier under the passenger seat. He already found a wet A-pillar and the random nature points to the same.
Your battery example and voltages levels maybe another cause but not typical or likely in this case.
Assume you now know that AGM batteries need a charging voltage of around 14.5 whereas stock lead acid at around 13.7. Therefore it is not surprising your battery died early. For the 200 series I understand a “hack” in the fuse box is possible to get to 14.5 volt charging level, do not know how that actually works or whether that is recommended. I think I will not as AGM and underhood temps do not like each other anyways. The scenario AGM shines is in cars with a starting battery in the boot (like my 535d) and are AGM from factory. My original battery lasted 9 years and I preemptively replaced it. Doing it at my own pace getting a replacement and re registering it (using Bimmerlink), so it gets charged as a new battery. Our 200 series does not have a power management system like this and that is for simplicity probably a good thing.
Your battery example and voltages levels maybe another cause but not typical or likely in this case.
Assume you now know that AGM batteries need a charging voltage of around 14.5 whereas stock lead acid at around 13.7. Therefore it is not surprising your battery died early. For the 200 series I understand a “hack” in the fuse box is possible to get to 14.5 volt charging level, do not know how that actually works or whether that is recommended. I think I will not as AGM and underhood temps do not like each other anyways. The scenario AGM shines is in cars with a starting battery in the boot (like my 535d) and are AGM from factory. My original battery lasted 9 years and I preemptively replaced it. Doing it at my own pace getting a replacement and re registering it (using Bimmerlink), so it gets charged as a new battery. Our 200 series does not have a power management system like this and that is for simplicity probably a good thing.
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- #15
I had the windshield leak tested. The shop determined I have a clogged sunroof drain. Since clearing the drain tube I haven't noticed any water or dampness since. One thing, which may be completely unrelated, is when I tried initially pairing my phone, there was a pop from the speakers, followed by electrical noise and no audio. A few ACC cycles and things were working again. A few weeks later I noticed the audio dropout. It's been intermittent ever since. Wasn't working yesterday, worked again after parking for a little bit. Drove earlier and no audio again. I just don't get it
As pointed out by others, check the electrical connectors by opening them in the passenger A pillar near the bottom as well as the amplifier below the passenger seat. One time water exposure can corrode those and cause continuous confused electrical connections, working one moment and the next it does not.
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- #17
I checked the FL1 plug, the bottom plug behind the kick panel. No corrosion. I need to check the wires under the seat. Dealing with a dead battery now. Has anyone experienced this issue with 2018+ models? I haven't found any posts across multiple forums where owners of 2018+ model year LX's have this issue. Maybe they changed something?
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Yes, get to the amplifier and check for corroded connectors. Hopefully a good and careful clean up of the pins can fix the issue
deanfun
I also confirmed that my amp fans were spinning by removing the front seat (actually just unbolting it and rocking it backwards) and putting my phone in front of the fans and confirming they were spinning and recording the sound. I ended up pulling it anyway and sending it to OEM Auto Audio. They called and informed me that it was bad. They repaired it (I was a bit skeptical) but upon installation, my issues went away.