Lucas Grease (1 Viewer)

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1973Guppie

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searched but could not find the answer, purchased a bunch of this for a knuckle rebuild on my 80 series, and wondering if it is ok to use as one grease for both the knuckles and bearing repacks?

I normally use mobil 1 for everything when doing a knuckle rebuild.

Not looking for opinions on what grease to use but rather if this is fine to use for a full knuckle rebuild?

Thanks,

Noah

http://lucasoil.com/products/grease/red-n-tacky-grease
 
searched but could not find the answer, purchased a bunch of this for a knuckle rebuild on my 80 series, and wondering if it is ok to use as one grease for both the knuckles and bearing repacks?

I normally use mobil 1 for everything when doing a knuckle rebuild.

Not looking for opinions on what grease to use but rather if this is fine to use for a full knuckle rebuild?

Thanks,

Noah

http://lucasoil.com/products/grease/red-n-tacky-grease


I would not use it in place of Moly. It has NONE. You CAN run anything for lube, even Crisco, but I would recommend using what is specified, bearing grease for wheel bearings and moly for birfs and steering knucle cavities. John
 
He's right. Lucas doesn't have a moly grease. I use their hi-temp red for my wheel bearings and it works extremely well.
 
Does Mobil 1 have moly?, I want one grease for everything


...via IH8MUD app


Mobile 1 red grease does NOT have moly so you have to have 2 types of grease. Moly for knuckle/birf, ujoints and drive shaft then red mobile 1 for everything else. At least that's what I have learned.

As far as the Luca grease goes it is the same thing as mobile 1 which is general purpose grease and not moly grease.
 
Confusing as some say use any all purpose grease, some say Mobil 1 has moly and some not. I have always used Mobil 1 with no problems. Curious how important it is really to have moly in the grease or is it an overblown chat topic?


...via IH8MUD app
 
Mobil 1 is not a moly grease replacement. Unfortunately to do it right you'll need 2 different types of grease. Wheel bearings and birfs have different needs lubrication wise that need specific greases.
 
Unless it says moly fortified it is not moly grease.

Moly is to add lubrication for applications where high surface tension above grease film capacity occurs, this means the pressure is so high the grease will be forced out and you are left with metal to metal contact. Think of them as micros ball bearings, they will not compress and hold the load, this keep the grease from being forced out.

Moly primarily is for high pressure and slower speed applications and regular grease is for everything else. Wheel Bearings generally have much higher speed and lower contract pressure, angular bearings mean all the needle bearings are holding/distributing the load. but birf and ujoints turns much slower with much higher pressure that's why they need moly. Just look at number and size of the balls in birf compare to wheel bearing, that alone tells you they are designed for totally different types of workload. If you look at how the birf works only 1 max 2 balls will be holding the load especially when turning. ujoints are the same, only 1 joint is holding the load especially with higher angles.
 
thx for that qball, good info, just trying to learn here, researched moly a bit and it sorta makes sense now why they ask to use it, for the metal to metal contact and wear protection it would provide, especially if it were to dry out vs. standard grease......

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide
 
Well what percentage of moly is required for the birfs? Most greases w/ moly added come with 3-7% moly with 3-5 being pretty normal. There are plenty of low percent moly greases out there that would work well for wheel bearings and I'd assume be enough for birfs. Valvoline syn power for example, and it is easy to find.
 

that looks pretty good, for a full axle rebuild it will take 2 tubes or 28 oz if I remember correctly.

Well what percentage of moly is required for the birfs? Most greases w/ moly added come with 3-7% moly with 3-5 being pretty normal. There are plenty of low percent moly greases out there that would work well for wheel bearings and I'd assume be enough for birfs. Valvoline syn power for example, and it is easy to find.

No idea, BUT I would say with confidence that any today's synthetic moly grease will be better than anything best money can buy 17 or more years ago.
 
Bump
Afternoon Mud:flipoff2:

I've got my axles torn down to bare metal doing 100% refresh as well as ARB lockers and re-gering to 488

I got a case of Lucas red and tacky for my wheel bearings and u-joints and I also got a few tubes of the Valvoline multi vehicle Molly fortified Grease for my Berfields.

I was talking to Lucas earlier this morning they said that their construction grease is 5% Molly. I also called Valvoline they said their Molly Greece that everyone uses is 1% Molly.

So my question is more Molly more better? I don't want to take this apart again anytime soon.

Has anyone used the 5% Lucas?

 
Bump
Afternoon Mud:flipoff2:

I've got my axles torn down to bare metal doing 100% refresh as well as ARB lockers and re-gering to 488

I got a case of Lucas red and tacky for my wheel bearings and u-joints and I also got a few tubes of the Valvoline multi vehicle Molly fortified Grease for my Berfields.

I was talking to Lucas earlier this morning they said that their construction grease is 5% Molly. I also called Valvoline they said their Molly Greece that everyone uses is 1% Molly.

So my question is more Molly more better? I don't want to take this apart again anytime soon.

Has anyone used the 5% Lucas?

I’ve used the Valvoline moly grease in everything for 20 years or more. The container says it’s general purpose grease for all bearings. Then came the Palladium which has 3% or 5%. I’ve used the 3% for the last five years in everything I put grease in.

This grease topic has been beaten to death many times and it keeps coming back to life. The main thing is that there is grease where grease is needed.
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