Awesome, thanks. I've got it pulled up on Amazon now.
Lubing & zerks
- Thread starter roadieguy
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Anyone used this tip with success on on ‘06ish model shafts and U joints?
2001LC
SILVER Star
No need. All grease gun tips lock well enough. That one may also be larger and difficult to fit into tight gap where spider zerks are.
Im not having issues with my lock-on....rather being unable to get it off without injury in the small space between vehicle undercarriage and garage floor. I’m looking for an easy removal.
2001LC
SILVER Star
It is a pain sometimes, isn't! But if you release pressure with button on grease gun. It makes a lot easier.
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I remember someone posting that it will work for the drive shafts but not the front u joint cause the gap is too small I believe
Big NO for me on my 06LX. My regular tips were working just fine but I switched to this on recommendation here just because I needed something to spend $30 on I guess. Would not latch, big greasy mess, lasted about 5 min. Back to regular old tip, works great no troubles. It it ain’t broke...
I apparently have a custom 80 series rear propeller shaft on my 100. The tolerances are much tighter for the U Joints. I picked up a Lincoln 5883 90 degree coupler off Amazon for ~$11 and I am quite happy with the decision. I use that to get to the U joints and for I believe that it makes it easier. I also have that locking model you posted. While it is nice for certain areas, it is quite bulky.
I have one of my zerks is not working. Tried to get it off with a socket and it really flet like nothing fit and couldn't get it loose. It is the zerk for the front shaft closest to the center diff. Spider gear zerk.
What tool to get it off without breaking it?
What tool to get it off without breaking it?
Isn't is a 5/16 socket to get it off? Counter clockwise to loosen. Maybe try some PB Blaster
It seems like it was soft and rounded before I got to it. So I need to get ahold of it. Was hoping for a "trick" tool before I screw it up.
I have a set of Vampliers that may work if I can get them in there.
I really like the responses in this thread. I think I am in good company. Not so coincidentally, I started achieving great results for Omni Lubricants Green Grease that I buy at Advance Auto, O'Reilly, and other big box parts stores many years ago.
Sure it is a premium priced grease, but it has been well worth it to me for a number of years. I learned about it from being in a car club with some boat owners off the Atlantic Ocean. They swear buy it for use on boat trailer wheel bearings that are submerged in salt water. Since I haven't submerged my vehicles in ocean water at this point, I figured it would do well for any of my automotive uses.
I got started using it on u-joints (double cardan joints) and slip yokes on my Tacoma. I decided with the Tacoma that would stick with good old tried and true Green Grease for the slip yoke. There was some Tacoma love for using Ford grease in the slip yoke. I felt like Green Grease would do the job and it is a product that I already have an use it on everything from tractors, bushings and even CV axles. It clings to metal. Operates at high temperatures. When you get some on your clothes, good luck getting it out. I just does not like to wash out of clothing. Also, it mixes with other types of grease. So there is not a problem using it on top of other greases. Also, I have had good luck using it on noisy bushings.
+1 to quotes below. When greasing the slip yoke, I start by removing the zerk and reinstalling it for good measure. Then I pump up the yoke until I can see the extension expanding. Then proceed carefully until a small amount begins to get past the seal as noted in the quotes below. The yoke will be full and pressurized at this point.
To keep from over pressurizing the slip yoke with new grease, I remove the zerk at the end. An amount of grease will shoot out of the hole like someone stepped on an open tube of tooth paste. Squirt! With the hole open and the pressure released, I stick a small piece of mechanics wire into the hold and fish out a little more grease so there will be a modicum of expansion room should it be needed during articulation. Reinstall the zerk and call it done.
So far this approach on my Toyotas with slip yokes has been working well for me. Gone is the feeling of being rear-ended a stop lights when energy from the slip yoke gives you a clunk.
Sure it is a premium priced grease, but it has been well worth it to me for a number of years. I learned about it from being in a car club with some boat owners off the Atlantic Ocean. They swear buy it for use on boat trailer wheel bearings that are submerged in salt water. Since I haven't submerged my vehicles in ocean water at this point, I figured it would do well for any of my automotive uses.
I got started using it on u-joints (double cardan joints) and slip yokes on my Tacoma. I decided with the Tacoma that would stick with good old tried and true Green Grease for the slip yoke. There was some Tacoma love for using Ford grease in the slip yoke. I felt like Green Grease would do the job and it is a product that I already have an use it on everything from tractors, bushings and even CV axles. It clings to metal. Operates at high temperatures. When you get some on your clothes, good luck getting it out. I just does not like to wash out of clothing. Also, it mixes with other types of grease. So there is not a problem using it on top of other greases. Also, I have had good luck using it on noisy bushings.
+1 to quotes below. When greasing the slip yoke, I start by removing the zerk and reinstalling it for good measure. Then I pump up the yoke until I can see the extension expanding. Then proceed carefully until a small amount begins to get past the seal as noted in the quotes below. The yoke will be full and pressurized at this point.
To keep from over pressurizing the slip yoke with new grease, I remove the zerk at the end. An amount of grease will shoot out of the hole like someone stepped on an open tube of tooth paste. Squirt! With the hole open and the pressure released, I stick a small piece of mechanics wire into the hold and fish out a little more grease so there will be a modicum of expansion room should it be needed during articulation. Reinstall the zerk and call it done.
So far this approach on my Toyotas with slip yokes has been working well for me. Gone is the feeling of being rear-ended a stop lights when energy from the slip yoke gives you a clunk.
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My spiders and U-joints have returned to normal after I squeezed them out to there maximum (to pump all of the old grease out).
This would have been called hydrolock. The clunking when shifting to reverse then drive all gone. Should take a photo again of the yokes.
This would have been called hydrolock. The clunking when shifting to reverse then drive all gone. Should take a photo again of the yokes.
2001LC
SILVER Star
OEM spider (universal joints) do not come off, those are fixed. The slide yoke zerks do come off. 7mm or 8mm, I don't recall which.
touché<thumbs up/>
So I have to change out the Spiders to renew the zerks if I cannot get them working?
FYI those locking coupler on the grease gun, i had to use a big effing hammer to smash the gun downwards to yank that thing out. Use with caution, sometimes it comes off, sometimes you have to basically swing from it with your bodyweight to get them to pop off.
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That tip would make my day a whole lot easier, i lube mine every other oil change and it's always a battle getting it off.
