Lubing & zerks (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Aug 4, 2010
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Location
Austin, TX
I know there are lots of threads on this but after reading most of them I have yet to find an "official answer" to how many pumps I should give each of the 6 points on the drive shaft without doing damage?

After reading a few horror stories I just did 2 pumps each b/c I figured less is better than more in this case.

Can anyone elighten me please on this?

How many on the slip yokes?

How many on the spiders?

Also the type of oil I'm using the guy at an Autozone said the same type of grease would be used on all 6 points. Is this true? Lastly what type(s) of grease should I be using?

Thanks.
 
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for the U joints I just go till it squeezes out. I don't think you can hurt those with too much grease, besides making a mess. So no worry there IMO.
The Yoke is a different story. Caution is advisable.
 
By u joints I assume you mean spider yokes?.... And by yoke you mean the Slip yoke is the one to be careful with?

I am referencing this pic I found in a thread
Mobile%20Photo%20Aug%2015%2C%202010%203%2005%2055%20PM.jpg
 
yes, spider yokes in your photo and yes the slip yoke there. you don't want to hydrolock the latter with too much grease if the seal is plugging things up.

I don't think it will ever compress the distance of that rusted area there, even with fully compressed axle. Just the little bit that's shinier is where it's moving with normal driving I believe. If that is completely dry it may be wise to take things apart and/or try to clean up the seal to allow some grease out when the shaft is compressing.
 
The front slip does not move much at all on a 100 series so no chance of hydro lock. With that said I remove it once a year flush the u-joint until I see fresh colored grease from all caps, clean and lube the splines, slightly over fill the slip yoke, remove the zerk, install drive line, and reinstall zerk.

I treat the rear the same except when I reinstall the driveline I compress the slip yoke to the used (shinny) part to purge the grease to the normal maximum compression point to avoid any chance of hydro lock during compression and reinstall the Zerk.

Every time I change oil or prepare for a long trip I lube the u-joints until I get seepage from every cap, but not the slip yoke. I use the tackiest grease I can find Im presently using Green Grease from Vatozone and have been very happy with it.
 
ok so what I've taken from this is only give a pump or two maybe to the slip yoke at each oil change. And with regards to the spider yoke I should pump until I see grease expunge from the joints outlined in the pic of the prior reply in this post.

Hopefully this is an easy fix to get rid of my "thunk" : )

Take care.
 
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So the tip of my lube gun is a total PITA. You have to screw it to tighten down the fitting on the zerk which im finding is quite impossible to do when attempting to lube the spider yokes.

Does anyone know of a lube gun with a retractable fitting, kind of like what pneumatic tools have?
 
ok so what I've taken from this is only give a pump or two maybe to the slip yoke at each oil change. And with regards to the spider yoke I should pump until I see grease expunge from the joints outlined in the pic of the prior reply in this post.

Hopefully this is an easy fix to get rid of my "thunk" : )

Take care.
Like any other grease fitting, you want to add grease until you see fresh grease moving past the seal...short of disassembly, that's the only way to verify that you've added enough grease.

I lube the splines with moly grease with ACH set on High, rear wheels off the ground so I can rotate the driveshaft by hand. Once I see grease moving past the seal, I stop greasing.

Tinkerer gave a good rundown in the post above.

Steve
 
So the tip of my lube gun is a total PITA. You have to screw it to tighten down the fitting on the zerk which im finding is quite impossible to do when attempting to lube the spider yokes.

You can grease the spiders with a standard grease gun head but you need to move the truck until the zerks are facing directly down to the ground for good access. The good news is it doesn't take much move movement to get that rotation.

I tried a press fit attachment and it didn't help any.
 
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You can grease the spiders with a standards grease gun head but you need to move the truck until the zerks are facing directly down to the ground for good access. The good news is it doesn't take much move movement to get that rotation.

I tried a press fit attachment and it didn't help any.
You can also lift the wheels off the ground, put the transfer case in neutral, and rotate the shafts by hand...

Steve
 
Someone on these boards recommended pumping your (installed) slip yoke completely full of moly, and then removing the zerk. I took my driveshaft down to replace the U joints and after getting a real good look at everything (and how easy it is to overfill the rear drive shaft slip yoke) I think that may be the way to go - I'm going to do that when the rain lets up as I believe I may have undergreased.
 
I was looking this up as well and here are the two best posts on this that I have found.


This is a post by 2001LC, I would trust what he has to say over just about anyone.
 
I will not use Mobil 1 red anymore for u-joints as it runs to thin in the heat and is short lived in u-joints. Linked below is my choice for what to use to service any and all zerks.

Amazon.com: Milton S-3102 Mini Pistol Grease Gun: Automotive
Buy Milton S-3102 Mini Pistol Grease Gun: Grease Guns - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com

Green Grease 203 Synthetic Waterproof High Temperature Grease, 3 Oz. Tube (Pack of 3): Industrial Greases: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Green Grease 203 Synthetic Waterproof High Temperature Grease, 3 Oz. Tube (Pack of 3): Industrial Greases: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
www.amazon.com

Amazon.com: Lincoln Lubrication 5803 Grease Needle Nozzle: Automotive
Buy Lincoln Lubrication 5803 Grease Needle Nozzle: Fuel Transfer & Lubrication - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERYpossible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
 
I will not use Mobil 1 red anymore for u-joints as it runs to thin in the heat and is short lived in u-joints. Linked below is my choice for what to use to service any and all zerks.

Good to know. I posted the previous links for the quality of the explanation on best practices for how to grease the zerks. It was just that the posts were in a thread titled about Mobil 1. It is good to hear that Mobil 1 is not the optimum any longer. Because it is thin it is probably really bad if the vehicle sees any water crossings. I just bought some Amsoil Multi Purpose NLGI #2. Any thoughts on that brand/product. I figure it makes sense to use since I already have it.
 
Good to know. I posted the previous links for the quality of the explanation on best practices for how to grease the zerks. It was just that the posts were in a thread titled about Mobil 1. It is good to hear that Mobil 1 is not the optimum any longer. Because it is thin it is probably really bad if the vehicle sees any water crossings. I just bought some Amsoil Multi Purpose NLGI #2. Any thoughts on that brand/product. I figure it makes sense to use since I already have it.

Im no expert just going by what has worked and not worked for me in the AZ climate over the years.
 
So... any issues with the way the procedure is being performed here? Seems pretty straight forward per the manual.

 
Yes, FSM method can over pressurize the propeller shaft slid yokes. This can put very high pressure on transfer case and differentials (front or rear).

Toyota has changed the recommendation for slide yoke lubing. To pump until the slide yoke just begins to extend. If regular lubed (every 5K to 15K miles, daily in deep sand or water use) this is fine.

But often they're aren't lubed for many miles even 100s of thousands. In these cases, the slide yoke tube may be dry. It takes special technique to lube these. Basically grease is pumped in until extension begins and then stop. Wait for compression of yoke, then pump in until it just starts to extending again and stop. Keep repeating as many times as it takes to get grease to pass the seals.
Two rules:
1) Pump in grease while wheels on ground, with suspension in a neural position.
2) If slide yoke extends more than ~1/8", remove zerk. Then put wheels on ground. Excesses grease will ooze out releasing pressure.
 
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