Lubing & zerks

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I talked to Lincoln today who makes my Pneumatic grease gun. They pointed me to this Video which should be informative to most folks in some way.

I also have the Lucas manual gun like the video above. The Lincoln Pneumatic has a slimmer coupler, but that makes it harder to get on and off because it seems tighter.

 
In the past year, I've been enjoying one of these little "pistol grip" guns for suspension and u-joint spot lubes.

It lets me point and shoot with one hand.

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So I have to change out the Spiders to renew the zerks if I cannot get them working?
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I've never replaced them, so I cannot speak to how difficult or easy it is, but the EPC shows the spider zerks as a replaceable part. 90416-06004.
 
Got it.

Reason asked is that I was able to get my hands on a hard drive version for my '60.

Shocked the hell out of Toyota service reps when I came to the table with ALL the part #s. I knew more than they did about that truck.

'Course now-a-days, no longer the case.
 
What is the zerk size? My grease fitting to the zerk had a hard time staying connected and seated.
Found it, M6. I also see BT80. I ordered a M6. The one that came with the grease gun did not really work and wasted alot of grease and made a mess.
 
Just a data point: I routinely (every 5k) top-off my slip joints with grease, stopping when I see grease come past the seal. Zero problems after 100k+, and if anything the suspension feels most compliant right after the work is done.

Since the wheels are on the ground for this job and the suspension is mostly compressed, I don't see the need for the releasing of grease via zerk removal as a final step.

Thoughts?
 
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Toyota changed the procedure recommendation, with good reason. From lube until grease passes seal of slip yoke. To lube until extension of yoke, first seen.

In older high mileage under lube slip yokes. Grease passes seals easily. But in good seals, of newer or well maintained (lubed). Lube until grease flows, can create to much pressure.
 
By u joints I assume you mean spider yokes?.... And by yoke you mean the Slip yoke is the one to be careful with?

I am referencing this pic I found in a thread
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Credit where credit is due. This was a life saver (hopefully). I mixed them up, but read this after a short trip to the store, removed the zerks and found some bumps. Thanks for the photo!
 
Toyota changed the procedure recommendation, with good reason. From lube until grease passes seal of slip yoke. To lube until extension of yoke, first seen.

In older high mileage under lube slip yokes. Grease passes seals easily. But in good seals, of newer or well maintained (lubed). Lube until grease flows, can create to much pressure.
Thanks for that! Is there a document anywhere that I can reference when sharing this info elsewhere? As always I appreciate that you share your substantial expertise on these vehicles, @2001LC .
 
I will not use Mobil 1 red anymore for u-joints as it runs to thin in the heat and is short lived in u-joints. Linked below is my choice for what to use to service any and all zerks.

Amazon.com: Milton S-3102 Mini Pistol Grease Gun: Automotive
Buy Milton S-3102 Mini Pistol Grease Gun: Grease Guns - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com

Green Grease 203 Synthetic Waterproof High Temperature Grease, 3 Oz. Tube (Pack of 3): Industrial Greases: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Green Grease 203 Synthetic Waterproof High Temperature Grease, 3 Oz. Tube (Pack of 3): Industrial Greases: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
www.amazon.com

Amazon.com: Lincoln Lubrication 5803 Grease Needle Nozzle: Automotive
Buy Lincoln Lubrication 5803 Grease Needle Nozzle: Fuel Transfer & Lubrication - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERYpossible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
Bringing this back to life. Phil, how is that grease gun for getting to the zerks? Do you recommend using a flex hose?
 
Thanks for that! Is there a document anywhere that I can reference when sharing this info elsewhere? As always I appreciate that you share your substantial expertise on these vehicles, @2001LC .
Sorry for late response.

IIRC no TSB for 100s dealing with lube. But Toyota changed recommendation in the 200 FSM. From pump grease in until clean grease passes seal, to until first extension seen.

They found adding grease until we see clean exiting pasting seal. Was creating excessive hydraulic pressure in cavity of slide yoke. This is due to the double seal system, wherein the inner seal is angled inward. When pumping in grease, the grease builds-up on inner lip, pressing seal against slide yoke shaft. The more pressure from adding grease the seal tightens. The hydraulic pressure just keeps building. If we keep adding grease, pressure blows out a plate at end of shaft. Grease then come out end of shaft. If plate doesn't blow out and seal doesn't allow grease to pass. The excessive pressure is applied to transfer case and differentials.

Lexus shops were replace propeller shaft, at first in early 2000's. Then later, drilled a little hole in this back plate, to release pressure. Word spread through Dealerships service manager "over greasing" (pressurizing). They'd say if you came in with clunk-thunk. "Slide yoke over greased". They were wrong in most cases. Regardless; Eventually Toyota change procedure. To lube until first extension.

From what I've seen over the years. If slide yoke not lubed, its seals wear out. Then, grease will pass seal rather easily. These slide yoke, will stop thunk-clunk for perhaps 1K or 2K miles after lubing, but comes back well before 5K miles interval. We either lube every time thunk-cluck comes back or R&R propeller shafts.
 
The slide yoke seals are supposed to be replaced when the spiders are replaced, as part of routine maintenance. No one does it because it's a PITA.
 
The slide yoke seals are supposed to be replaced when the spiders are replaced, as part of routine maintenance. No one does it because it's a PITA.
Have you?

I suppose we'll more spiders & yoke seal failures, even when well lubed, as fleet ages. To date I've not.

Yoke seal, is inside cover
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Typically these seal don't need replacing. Provide slide yoke has been serviced properly. If not lubed, seal wears out, but more importantly so do splines.
 
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Yes, on my last transmission rebuild/installation, but I won't do it again, unless the seal is obviously not holding grease. I admit that's a lame reason, but you literally (as opposed to figurately, kids) have to cut the seal off the prop shaft. It's a nail–biter grinding that entire sleeve and not gouging the shaft underneath.


You are exactly correct that the seal is there to protect the splines, both by retaining the grease and repelling debris. But, keep in mind, it's a seal and seals do not last forever. Having said that, I can't remember when I last heard of someone losing a prop shaft because of a failed slip yoke seal, so they are obviously long–lived suckers.

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I additionally made the mistake of installing too much grease; I had to use a ratchet strap to compress the shaft just to get it in. Lesson learned: install grease after shaft.
 
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