Lubing & zerks (4 Viewers)

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Helpful thread, just did my slips and Ujoints. Given that I haven’t greased them in the 100 thousand miles since I bought the rig they were dry. Like 50-60 pumps in the slips dry. Drivetrain clunk is gone. I didn’t over think it. Pumped until i saw expansion. Then pumped 1 by one until the expansion stopped. If you listen you can hear grease oozing past the seal. I stopped just before grease oozed out.
 
Helpful thread, just did my slips and Ujoints. Given that I haven’t greased them in the 100 thousand miles since I bought the rig they were dry. Like 50-60 pumps in the slips dry. Drivetrain clunk is gone. I didn’t over think it. Pumped until i saw expansion. Then pumped 1 by one until the expansion stopped. If you listen you can hear grease oozing past the seal. I stopped just before grease oozed out.

man you are brave i kept going until it started to expand on the slip yokes, im scared of all these posts who say damage can occur by overfilling, so i never saw anything ooze from slip yoke only the spider yoke.
 
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Okay, I think I got it then...

Pump until the slip yoke starts to move
Pump the spider zerk until grease starts to ooze out

(referencing picture from Pg. 1)
 
Does anyone know what size replacement zerk fittings to get?

I just greased my zerk earlier today and one of them is not holding closed. Grease is coming back out the fill hole.
 
I got grease to move pretty readily out of the slip yoke seal a few weeks after my first greasing only moved the shaft a bit. Well-maintained 06 LX with 144 of 150k in a southern state.
 
Does anyone know what size replacement zerk fittings to get?

I just greased my zerk earlier today and one of them is not holding closed. Grease is coming back out the fill hole.

This was the part that was listed online for the 100 series when I checked. I haven't had a chance to confirm that they fit yet

96451-00600
 
Found out today that the M6x1 zerks on their sales floor from O Reilly auto parts fit.
But make sure to use the nipple with the exact same profile. There are ones with a different shape to it and I think the threads are different as I almost crossthreaded the threads.
 
The front slip does not move much at all on a 100 series so no chance of hydro lock. With that said I remove it once a year flush the u-joint until I see fresh colored grease from all caps, clean and lube the splines, slightly over fill the slip yoke, remove the zerk, install drive line, and reinstall zerk.

I treat the rear the same except when I reinstall the driveline I compress the slip yoke to the used (shinny) part to purge the grease to the normal maximum compression point to avoid any chance of hydro lock during compression and reinstall the Zerk.

Every time I change oil or prepare for a long trip I lube the u-joints until I get seepage from every cap, but not the slip yoke. I use the tackiest grease I can find Im presently using Green Grease from Vatozone and have been very happy with it.


You still loving the Green Grease a decade later @LandCruiserPhil ?
 
Okay, I think I got it then...

Pump until the slip yoke starts to move Correct!
Pump the spider zerk until CLEAN grease starts to ooze out

(referencing picture from Pg. 1)
;) !^
 
Does anyone know what size replacement zerk fittings to get?

I just greased my zerk earlier today and one of them is not holding closed. Grease is coming back out the fill hole.
Not sure, maybe 6X1.5. Why not pull your clogged one and measure it! While out, it would be a good time to clean it. To see if cleaning can free up the ball valve. They get dirty from failing to clean tips before pumping in greasing.
 
Not sure, maybe 6X1.5. Why not pull your clogged one and measure it! While out, it would be a good time to clean it. To see if cleaning can free up the ball valve. They get dirty from failing to clean tips before pumping in greasing.
Found out today that the M6x1 zerks on their sales floor from O Reilly auto parts fit.
But make sure to use the nipple with the exact same profile. There are ones with a different shape to it and I think the threads are different as I almost crossthreaded the threads.

Found one that fit.

Upon inspection of the zerk that was leaking, looked like there was a nick next to the ball on the face of the zerk and the grease was leaking from there. Not sure how that happened though.
 
Never having done this before, I was inspired by this thread to grease my 100. How do I know if I over greased my slip yoke? And, if so, how do I remove some of the grease?
I did my rear slip yoke first and never saw the driveshaft move, but it got to a point where I couldn't squeeze the grease gun any more. I thought that was normal until I did the front slip yoke and it greased with ease until the driveshaft moved
 
Never having done this before, I was inspired by this thread to grease my 100. How do I know if I over greased my slip yoke? And, if so, how do I remove some of the grease?
I did my rear slip yoke first and never saw the driveshaft move, but it got to a point where I couldn't squeeze the grease gun any more. I thought that was normal until I did the front slip yoke and it greased with ease until the driveshaft moved
Found the answer. In case anyone else does the same thing:
 
Thanks to @LandCruiserPhil I acquired a mini gun and green grease.

slid under the LX tonight and applied a good slather of grease on exterior of slip yoke rubber seal.

then I pumped some grease into rear yoke zerk. Never saw it move so i’ll drive and add more later.

the spider zerks...wow! I began pumping and began hearing a cracking sound and realized that oil black grease was being pushed out! These really needed the grease!

i love maintenance
 
I grease the universal joint until the grease comes out clean... purging most of the old stuff...
and for the driveshaft... pump in new grease until the shaft barely starts to extend...
then take a pin, and push the zerk ball valve in and relieve any excess pressure in the shaft.. a small amount of new grease will purge back out. Just enough.

Been working well this way for me...for all of the 270k miles that I’ve been maintaining the LX.
 
Ok guys I’ve got an issue.

Using my mini gun and Green Grease I was able to get my spider/UJoints greased well and I greased both yokes as well (they probably need more grease soon as I didnt force any grease from seals on shafts).

During the removal of the grease gun from the front yoke zerk I slammed my thumb between the steel gun tube and my garage floor. After X-ray today thankfully it just seems to be a bone bruise (I swore last night it was broke at joint).

All of that to say, is there a grease tip that takes the difficult removal out of the equation?

I rely on healthy hands daily at my occupation and I cannot have injuries from preventative maintenance. Removing the gun from the zerks was just way too difficult, surely there is another way...
 
Ok guys I’ve got an issue.

Using my mini gun and Green Grease I was able to get my spider/UJoints greased well and I greased both yokes as well (they probably need more grease soon as I didnt force any grease from seals on shafts).

During the removal of the grease gun from the front yoke zerk I slammed my thumb between the steel gun tube and my garage floor. After X-ray today thankfully it just seems to be a bone bruise (I swore last night it was broke at joint).

All of that to say, is there a grease tip that takes the difficult removal out of the equation?

I rely on healthy hands daily at my occupation and I cannot have injuries from preventative maintenance. Removing the gun from the zerks was just way too difficult, surely there is another way...
Would love to know this for the opposite reason. I am struggling to get my grease gun to latch on to the 2 middle fittings close to the transfer case. Got the two at the front of the front driveshaft, 1 at the rear... but cannot get my grease gun to latch on to the others. Is there a fitting I can add to my gun to make latching easier?
 

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