LS Swap questions. (8 Viewers)

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There’s a lot to unpack that question. Honestly need to have your build fully laid out. Areas to think about, what exact engine trans, drive shaft adjustments, ac mount, keep stock trans cross member or not. Can you weld? How good are the instructions? Do you have a buddy who can come over and weld for you? I don’t think you can go wrong with either, they both have some plus and minuses. I’d recommend calling each manufacturer to get more info.
 
Hey everyone. Thank you for all of the valuable info. I’m currently debating on cruiser Matt’s weld in mounts or selkirks bolt in mounts, does anyone have any information on what they prefer and why?

I am not a fan of Selkirks engine mount bushings. Recalling, I also think they center the engine, which helps with steering box clearance, but reduces diff clearance. Thus the need for a 2" to 4" lift.

I am much more in favor of using factory engine bushings if possible. Way better engineered for noise and vibration isolation. I am using Marks4wd mount adapters because I had them before Matt released his mounts. I am using Toyota engine bushings. Matt's mount uses GM engine bushings.

I also had to modify the placement of Marks 4WD mounts for a US FZJ80, where as Matt's mounts are much more dialed in for a left hand drive US 80.

If you go with Selkirk, I do have their transmission mount that I am willing to let go for a steal. Shipping to SD wouldn't be cheap.
 
I am not a fan of Selkirks engine mount bushings. Recalling, I also think they center the engine, which helps with steering box clearance, but reduces diff clearance. Thus the need for a 2" to 4" lift.

I am much more in favor of using factory engine bushings if possible. Way better engineered for noise and vibration isolation. I am using Marks4wd mount adapters because I had them before Matt released his mounts. I am using Toyota engine bushings. Matt's mount uses GM engine bushings.

I also had to modify the placement of Marks 4WD mounts for a US FZJ80, where as Matt's mounts are much more dialed in for a left hand drive US 80.

If you go with Selkirk, I do have their transmission mount that I am willing to let go for a steal. Shipping to SD wouldn't be cheap.
I honestly ordered Matt’s first and they are being shipped currently. I ordered selkirks trans crossmember already for ease of installation for my lq4 and 4l80 and I will modify my slee under armor panel once I’m done so I can use that again.

Lol I may just have both show up and then go from there. I have a buddy who is a hell if a welder and fabricator so I can make anything work. Just about the time I will need to invest in it
 
There’s a lot to unpack that question. Honestly need to have your build fully laid out. Areas to think about, what exact engine trans, drive shaft adjustments, ac mount, keep stock trans cross member or not. Can you weld? How good are the instructions? Do you have a buddy who can come over and weld for you? I don’t think you can go wrong with either, they both have some plus and minuses. I’d recommend calling each manufacturer to get more info.
Got a buddy who can weld. Running an lq4 and 4l80 trans. Running the Selkirk crossmember for the time being until I can modify my slee one to fit.
 
There’s a lot to unpack that question. Honestly need to have your build fully laid out. Areas to think about, what exact engine trans, drive shaft adjustments, ac mount, keep stock trans cross member or not. Can you weld? How good are the instructions? Do you have a buddy who can come over and weld for you? I don’t think you can go wrong with either, they both have some plus and minuses. I’d recommend calling each manufacturer to get more info.
What did you do to get the stock gauges to work with the LS?

And did you have to do anything to the trans to make the stock fzj80 gear selector work as well?
 
What did you do to get the stock gauges to work with the LS?

And did you have to do anything to the trans to make the stock fzj80 gear selector work as well?
For the gauges I used a Dakota digital box. Depending on different years of LC and what LS you’re using some people haven’t needed it. I used a trailblazer trans cable. I had to notch out one little gear on my shifter. Go look at my build thread for more.
 
You could use Dakota digital box to correct the rpm. I have, I think, a water temp sensor that is a toyota plug but the sensor machined down to fit LS head that would make the temp gauge work on the stock dash. I got it from wits before all the drama. Never installed it.

On my set up the right side of the gauges work and the left doesn't lol. I just didn't care to make it work even though it's easy to do so. I just have the Holley screen I mounted on the left side to show me all the vital information I need to see. Maybe one day I'll make them all work but for now, the Holley screen is much more accurately informative than the factory dash.

Like others said, notch the factory shifter gate. Lots of info in the LS swap thread.

Looking back it was a relatively easy swap. I have some info on my swap page as well with I believe all the part numbers I used. Slowly updating it as I'm almost finished with my rear bumper build.
 
The water temp is the easiest to do. Google Toyota threaded LS water temp. They’re out there. Get an adapter to fit LC oil pressure sensor to LS threads. It’s a generic part you can get online.
 
The only thing I cared about working on my factory dash was the fuel gauge and the speedo.. rpm.. meh.. all other gauges on there are dummy gauges for lack of a better description.. lol

the info on my Holley screen is wayy more accurate and really lets me know what's going on.
 
To pile on.
  1. Toyota Tach can be adjusted to accept 5V or 12V pulses and 4 pulses/rev of a LS.
  2. Oil Pressure works with a simple adapter.
  3. Water Temp works with a simple adapter, or modified Toyota water temp sensor. I did the latter.
  4. Stock gear shift works perfectly by shortening the swing arm length and changing angle relative to the shift cable + trailblazer cable. No modification of the gates needed.
  5. Dash gear position needs a Dakota Digital GSS-3000.
  6. Speedometer doesn't need anything.
  7. Fuel Gauge doesn't need anything.
  8. Volt Meter doesn't need anything.
Everything works in my swap.

I also have a scangauge II for more precise information.
 
To pile on.
  1. Toyota Tach can be adjusted to accept 5V or 12V pulses and 4 pulses/rev of a LS.
  2. Oil Pressure works with a simple adapter.
  3. Water Temp works with a simple adapter, or modified Toyota water temp sensor. I did the latter.
  4. Stock gear shift works perfectly by shortening the swing arm length and changing angle relative to the shift cable + trailblazer cable. No modification of the gates needed.
  5. Dash gear position needs a Dakota Digital GSS-3000.
  6. Speedometer doesn't need anything.
  7. Fuel Gauge doesn't need anything.
  8. Volt Meter doesn't need anything.
Everything works in my swap.

I also have a scangauge II for more precise information.
Perfect info. Thank you so much everyone. I don’t care if my dash gauge selector works. I never look at it anyways. I just wanted to make sure the gear selector mounts up and works with the 4L80. I’m accumulating parts right now. I just took truck in its last voyage with the stock engine and trans. The start date of my swap is getting very close. Just waiting on a couple more parts.

Just to be clear. I shouldn’t need the Dakota box if I don’t care about the gear selector on the dash correct?

Is there a certain year trailblazer cable I should purchase?

I purchased a new oil sensor that’s Modified for the engine and same with the water temp. So I should be good there.

Just trying to tackle the gremlins everyone runs into before I get there and am stuck or having to take it out multiple times.
 
What year Toyota do you have? Not that I regret doing my swap, I would’ve enjoyed a fresh Toyota motor as well. I still go back and forth if I should’ve done it or not. I sold my Toyota engine and trans. Part of me wishes I kept it. Bought another LC and rebuilt it.
 
What year Toyota do you have? Not that I regret doing my swap, I would’ve enjoyed a fresh Toyota motor as well. I still go back and forth if I should’ve done it or not. I sold my Toyota engine and trans. Part of me wishes I kept it. Bought another LC and rebuilt it.
96 1fz engine. I’ll gladly sell you my engine and trans once I’m all done. Engine is strong, just leaking from the front cover, good compression still. Trans is great too from what I can tell, doesn’t slip one bit. It cost me just as much as my LS and 4l80 to have someone fix it. Plus I have always wanted to do an engine swap project. So this is my chance.
 
Too
Late for me. But I highly recommend you hold on to it. Be careful pulling it out. There are a lot of parts that can’t be found anymore. Sell it to a LC shop.
 
Too
Late for me. But I highly recommend you hold on to it. Be careful pulling it out. There are a lot of parts that can’t be found anymore. Sell it to a LC shop.
Copy that. I know. I fixed a lot of stuff on it when I first bought it and it was a major pain to get a lot of it. Another reason why I want to do the swap
 
Perfect info. Thank you so much everyone. I don’t care if my dash gauge selector works. I never look at it anyways. I just wanted to make sure the gear selector mounts up and works with the 4L80. I’m accumulating parts right now. I just took truck in its last voyage with the stock engine and trans. The start date of my swap is getting very close. Just waiting on a couple more parts.

Just to be clear. I shouldn’t need the Dakota box if I don’t care about the gear selector on the dash correct?

Is there a certain year trailblazer cable I should purchase?

I purchased a new oil sensor that’s Modified for the engine and same with the water temp. So I should be good there.

Just trying to tackle the gremlins everyone runs into before I get there and am stuck or having to take it out multiple times.

You only need park and neutral so you don't start the motor in gear, otherwise you will have to bypass Toyota's Neutral Safety Switch.

I used Dorman 905-612 for my cable. I could have used a much shorter cable due to my routing. Others route it forward and then back, and forward again. which requires a long cable.
 
You only need park and neutral so you don't start the motor in gear, otherwise you will have to bypass Toyota's Neutral Safety Switch.

I used Dorman 905-612 for my cable. I could have used a much shorter cable due to my routing. Others route it forward and then back, and forward again. which requires a long cable.
I recognize I need park and neutral. But I don’t need the Dakota digital box for that right? Are we not able the use the gear selector on the floor shifter for that, does it not match up?
 
It depends on the transmission your using. Each one is different but they can provide park/neutral indication.

Otherwise, you will need a Dakota digital box to determine when the gear shift is in park/neutral.
 
It depends on the transmission your using. Each one is different but they can provide park/neutral indication.

Otherwise, you will need a Dakota digital box to determine when the gear shift is in park/neutral.
Ok. I’m using the 4l80. So I’m unsure if it does that or if you or anyone else knows?
 
Ok. I’m using the 4l80. So I’m unsure if it does that or if you or anyone else knows?
You can use the stock shifter with a trailblazer cable. Personally I would just go with a lokar shifter. You can use a dakota digital gear indicator to light up the stock gauge cluster position lights. All of that is in the v8 swap thread.
 

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