Lower Oil Pan Gasket Fix - 2 Methods (1 Viewer)

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Mar 31, 2021
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Hey,

I have a 2000 LX470 that needs its lower oil pan gasket seal replaced.

I called Lexus and they use a solution to clean the two parts, apply a solution sealant and bolt them back together. He also recommended I change the oil plug while I’m at it. Lastly he said let the solution cure for 24+ hours before completing the oil change and driving it.

The other option I see online is an actual physical gasket seal.

I am wondering if folks have done this and what method they used along with any tips they may have?

My initial thought is to go with the solution sealant as it was how the truck was designed and manufactured originally.

Thank you in advance.
 
Lexus or Toyota do not offer an actual oil pan gasket....you would use black fipg(form in place gasket). Part number on that is 00295-00103 and should be available from any dealer. You would apply to the cleaned pan area and install pan within 15 minutes of applying fipg.
 
Lexus or Toyota do not offer an actual oil pan gasket....you would use black fipg(form in place gasket). Part number on that is 00295-00103 and should be available from any dealer. You would apply to the cleaned pan area and install pan within 15 minutes of applying fipg.
Thank you. I will plan to clean the area, apply the 103 sealant and bolt the upper/lower back together.
 
doesn't the motor have to come out/get unbolted and lifted up for the pan to come off?
 
Hey can you expand on this for me? My drain plug hole is stripped and I need to replace the pan. I do see some interferences with simply dropping the pan on my 100 series. Have you done this job?

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Following this one. I was under my 2001 today looking for leaks and need to replace a few seals.
 
Following this one. I was under my 2001 today looking for leaks and need to replace a few seals.
I used an extractor and sucked out the oil from the dipstick. I wouldn’t necessarily recommend this but I didn’t want to open a can of worms. I got out 6.3 L or so, so I feel good that old stuff is out. You will have to shove the hose in there pretty hard and I “skinned” some of the hose forcing it through the 45 degree elbows.
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doesn't the motor have to come out/get unbolted and lifted up for the pan to come off?

Although this has already been answered (no), you might be thinking of the upper pan. Don't ask me how I know though . . .
 
Although this has already been answered (no), you might be thinking of the upper pan. Don't ask me how I know though . . .
Ugh. I'm hoping for the best when I do mine. Kind of starting top down. First cam seals, power steering pump, crank seal... all this oil is coming from somewhere. I'm hoping I don't have an oil pump seal issue. I just watched a YouTube video where guy pulled out the front differential to remove upper pan.

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Ugh. I'm hoping for the best when I do mine. Kind of starting top down. First cam seals, power steering pump, crank seal... all this oil is coming from somewhere. I'm hoping I don't have an oil pump seal issue. I just watched a YouTube video where guy pulled out the front differential to remove upper pan.

View attachment 3445180

Mind sharing a link to the video?
 
Although this has already been answered (no), you might be thinking of the upper pan. Don't ask me how I know though . . .
Ugh. I'm hoping for the best when I do mine. Kind of starting top down. First cam seals, power steering pump, crank seal... all this oil is coming from somewhere. I'm hoping I don't have an oil pump seal issue. I just watched a YouTube video where guy pulled out the front differential to remove upper
Mind sharing a link to the video?
 
Ugh. I'm hoping for the best when I do mine. Kind of starting top down. First cam seals, power steering pump, crank seal... all this oil is coming from somewhere. I'm hoping I don't have an oil pump seal issue. I just watched a YouTube video where guy pulled out the front differential to remove upper pan.

View attachment 3445180
We don't usually see pans leak, unless they've been removed.

Seeing oil only on LH side. I'd look along LH side of engine for point of leak.

Best way to find leaks: After taking pictures of all point wet/oily. Is to clean all oil off engine and re take pictures, so you've evidence it's clean. Than watch after each time engine run, for point oil leaks first from. Work from pictures of wet areas.

Most common LH side:
Head cover. Re-torque to 53 INCH -lbf.
Oil dip stick tube O-ring. Replace O-ring. 98% of all 4.7L weep here. This weep over time, builds up becoming first noticeable on LH side of pan, just like your picture.
Oil filter and or oil cooler housing. Common after shop replaces steering rack using FSM method. Replace O-ring of leak. (1 large, 1 small figure 8)
Oil spillage while filling. Clean.

You said "Cam and Crank" seal leaks. I'll assume the crank seal leak was front of engine. If so, was it the factory seal in place at time of leak or a replacement that was leaking. I do not see factory crank or cam seal leak on 99-05, only replacements.
At the top of the oil pump housing is an O-ring (must remove oil pump to replace). We see these weep, but some are leaking bad. The ones leaking bad, usually are engines that had HM (HIGH MILEAGE) oil in them for 2 oil change or more. These engine also leak at rear main crank seal. HM oil damaged all rubber seal, which the oil pan is not affected, as it's FIPG (silicone) seal. These engine leak very badly.

Hope that helps!
 
Great points ty @2001LC

Crazy HM oil causes these issues.

I haven't started into dismantling yet... only took the undercarriage shields off to inspects and gets all parts rtg. Scraping off caked on grime and sprayed with degreaser.

I know there a leak above timing belt hydraulic tensioner.

I know there's a leak on passenger valve cover.

I know there's some kind of leak on the power steering pump reservoir, atf running down both hoses to the pump.

By LH you mean driver side? I noticed timing belt vid shows left side as driver side

I'll look at oil dip stick... didn't notice any leak there.
not sure about oil filter or cooler... that looked out of the way from where I noticed the buildup

not sure if any work was done to steering rack although did notice oil laying on top side of it from oil dripping above.


I don't know if the front crank and cam seals are original. Engine has over 350k. The LX is new to me, I don't see much in way of service records.

Ill start to research rear main crank seal.
 
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I do think front differential has a seal leak as looks wet and could be slinging oil around.

The cv boots looked intact but I did notice a lot of oil/grease caked onto lower control arms.
 
Engine LH or RH, is as you sit in driver seat. So yes LH is drive side in USA LH hand drive. Which LH (left) is also BK1 (bank 1)

Very common leak seen front RH engine around timing belt tensioner. It is due to not sealing threads of timing belt #1 (tensioner) pulley.
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Vane pump (power steering pump) leaks, are usually very bad and will drip leaving a puddle. The front bearing goes bad and causes seal failure. The area behind pulley and entire vane will usually be wet. More common is the suction hose and return house weep due to age. Replace them while cleaning reservoir is also a good first step.

The biggest areas to be concerned with, are: Coolant system with heater Tees at top of list.
Next: Spark plugs

The baseline list builds from there!
Look at Snowy, it has a lot of detail baseline & PM service discussed. See many other links as well.
 
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It is due to not sealing threads of timing belt #1 (tensioner) pulley.
Can this be fixed without a whole new belt job? I believe that is my leak. Waiting for a few more drives and checks, but I think that is the source.
 
Can this be fixed without a whole new belt job? I believe that is my leak. Waiting for a few more drives and checks, but I think that is the source.
Yes. But you'll need to go as deep as T-belt job. Just no need to remove water pump or #2 idler.
 

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