Long term VHT Header Paint?

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Coolerman

Coolerman

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I searched and came up with two threads on VHT header paint. Neither gave a long term report.

Fast Eddie you were one of them. Got an update?


This stuff is supposed to withstand 1500 degrees and I have never heard of a header on a properly tuned engine getting over 800 degrees. I just can't justify the Jet Hot coating at $240, the header wrap 'supposedly' causes the header to rust out and I just can't install it in he rusty state it's in. (Picky aren't I?)

I found an item on E-Bay for 2 cans of flat red VHT paint for $16.38... eBay Motors: 2 Cans VHT SP109 Flat Red 1500° Header Paint (item 300233595960 end time Nov-10-08 17:54:00 PST)
 
Painted my heat shrouds in that stuff, short term so far all good and plenty of heat from the Turbo and exhaust.

100_1908.jpg


Headers I had JET HOT coated :D
 
Wanna send me $240? :D


I figure for $16.38 I can't go too wrong... Maybe after the house is built I can get the :princess: to turn loose of the Cruiser funds... ;) Or get me a sponser?
 
Coolerman said:
Wanna send me $240? :D


I figure for $16.38 I can't go too wrong... Maybe after the house is built I can get the :princess: to turn loose of the Cruiser funds... ;) Or get me a sponser?
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Nah send them here at what's now 60c Aus to a US Dollar I'll get them done half price for you and send them back. Or why not just buy a new set of pacemaker extractors get them done here and I'll put them in the next truck going state side in Nov.

Grrrr used to be a dollar for dollar.
 
I've always avoided heat paints for Headers because most of them are advertised to withstand 1200 degrees. The exhaust heat right outside the Head is about 1600 degrees. Down at the collector it is about 800 degrees until the engine warms up, then stays at about 1100 to 1200 degrees. Knowbody seems to be able to keep paint on Headers for more than a few weeks/months!!!
 
OK so how about some pics of the headers folks have painted with their favorite header paint? Not just after you did it mind you , but NOW after a few miles on them. ;)

Jim, how did you measure the temp? That sounds terribly high to me for a tractor motor. :confused:

If it is true, it's no wonder the hood is vented, Toyota put on carb fans, and everyone keeps complaining about their feet burning... ;)
 
I had a header sandblasted and painted with the vht paint about 12 years ago now. Not on my cruiser but on a 4 cyl Renault. I used a gray VHT paint that did not have to be heated to cure, most seem to require it now. The finish lasted for many years until I started parking it outside in the wet over the winter. Then it started as small dark blemishes, now its covered in surface rust. Pic shows them after about 10 years, needs to be redone.
HTH
 
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Coolerman said:
How much did it take? I see they have a 1/2 pint and a pint. That's not a bad option either.
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1/2 pint
PS - I painted the stock exhaust manifold which, given the thickness of the metal, had probably contributed to the paint holding up
 
Coolerman said:
Fast Eddie you were one of them. Got an update?
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I don't have a recent picture, and I used it on my Thermonuclear™ manifold, not headers. It's holding up pretty well. It's been on there for over a year and there's no rust. I might have put 3000 miles on it, but it lives outside, not in the garage.

Since I had some left, I used it on my air injection rail and on my valve cover. The valve cover is fine, but the air rail has mostly flaked off. I don't know if it's because I didn't cure it properly (I did with the manifold), or possibly due to the thinner material of the air rail.
 
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Well I found the VHT paint locally (AutoZone) for $8.78 a can. They claim 1300 - 2000 degree F range if cured properly.

I bought a can of the primer they recommend for bare metal (white), and a can of flat red. The curing is going to be an issue. My powder coating oven is not big enough to hold the headers. ;)

They mention you can cure them on the truck. I guess I will try that. I'll post pics when they are done....
 
71FJ40 said:
I used the POR high temp paint. (FACTORY MANIFOLD GRAY-POR-15 Inc.)
Sand blasted the header, used the POR marine clean and acid etch...
4+ years later still looks great!
:banana:
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I just put the POR high temp directly on a brand new MAF 6-1 header, didn't last two months :frown: Guess the prep stuff is worth it ...

Tucker
 
Coolerman said:
OK so how about some pics of the headers folks have painted with their favorite header paint? Not just after you did it mind you , but NOW after a few miles on them. ;)

Jim, how did you measure the temp? That sounds terribly high to me for a tractor motor. :confused:

If it is true, it's no wonder the hood is vented, Toyota put on carb fans, and everyone keeps complaining about their feet burning... ;)
Click to expand...
This math came from pyrometer test we did on a 1985 22RE engine for a Federal test for A.R.B. exemption. We had to do daily cold-start test (engine going from cold to hot-approx 20 miles on freeway), testing with pyrometer 2" out from head, then 4", then 6", and so on until we were down at the collector. This test showed us (and ARB) exactly where the o2 sensor had to be in the Header to equal the same environment it would have been in a stock manifold or tail pipe. I thinjk the temps could have been considerably different between Toyota 4 cyl. and Chevy V8, but not between Toyota 4 cyl. and Landcruiser straight 6.
 
So what was the range of temps for different RPM's?

Idle temps vs. highway speed temps would have to be pretty far apart? 300 to 1200? ( If I'm asking for what may be proprietary information tell me so. ) I'm just always looking to add to my :wrench: knowledge base.

With exhaust temps that high I'll have to take a closer look at protecting my F engine oil lines and the steering box.

On another note I bet the cost of doing that CARB testing was up way up there. :D
 
Coolerman said:
I just can't justify the Jet Hot coating at $240, the header wrap 'supposedly' causes the header to rust out and I just can't install it in he rusty state it's in. (Picky aren't I?)
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You don't have to spend that kind of money to get a manifold or headers ceramic coated. Call around. You would be surprised what you can find.

Had my manifold done for 100 dollars.
 
I've had the exact same experiences ad BC40. The stuff lasts for a while, but eventually rusts though. Cure it just like it says on the can, and don't use too much.
 
Trollhole said:
You don't have to spend that kind of money to get a manifold or headers ceramic coated. Call around. You would be surprised what you can find.

Had my manifold done for 100 dollars.
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If my oven were big enough I could do it myself. I did a set of shorty headers for a friend. They came out good and so far are still intact.
P3010164.webp
 
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