Long range fuel tanks

[Taco Jeff]

I am very interested in the 30 gallon version.

Jeff

 

[Bossman429]

I don't think 12 gauge is thick enough for the bottom of a tank (its plenty for the vertical and top sides). Remember someone may be dropping over two tons of a weight onto a pointy rock onto these things. I'd go 3/16" at least for the bottom plate if you use steel.

Obviously 1/2" aluminum would be awesome No rust issues and much lighter.

Just my .02.

 

[spressomon]

FWIW we used 3/16" for the bottom of my aux tank...given the 'witness marks' I'm glad we did.

 

[VidereStudios]

Thanks for the input guys! Going to meet the fabricator tomorrow!

 

[rohitash]

I have a 2003 LX and would be happy to help in any way. Very interested in 25 gallon version.

 

[jonharis]

I've been watching with interest as I'm beginning to plan a 100s series (cough cough) baja trip to take place in the next couple years. I would want something level with the frame rails and definitely 3/16" for protection. I'm a 2005.

 

[LCHardriver_02]

I'd be interested as well for my '02. Just another reason to get that back bumper with the tire swing-out!

 

[VidereStudios]

Sorry for the delay in my response...I ended up not being able to meet with the fabricator last Friday. It has been just a crazy busy week...I worked all weekend so no progress was made on the subtanks. I have some rough drawings for the two smaller tank ideas, but I need some help from someone with a 2003 or later 100 series.

I need some fairly detailed photos of the charcoal canister (probably from all four angles and including the OEM filler pipe location if possible). Then I need a few measurements pulled. They are as follows:

1. Overall HxWxD of canister
2. Measurement from side frame rail
3. Measurement from front frame rail
4. Measurement from lowest point of charcoal canister to low point of side frame rails. This measurement is important...I would recommend placing a straight edge from frame rail to frame rail that spans the lowest point of the canister, and then measuring the distance above the straight edge. Maybe then include a photo or measurement of the side frame rail where this low point occurs. Does that make sense?

If I can get some detailed, high res photos of the canister and the above measurements, I should be able to create a prototype subtank. Does someone have twenty minutes or so to do that this weekend (probably requires dropping the spare to get good photos)? Is there anyone here in Oregon (I am in Eugene) or southern Washington that would be able to test fit a prototype in the next month or so?

I did chat with my fabricator and he is on board to do production runs of tanks (probably minimum five at a time). His company is a small firm that does custom metal work here in Eugene and has specialized in fuel tanks for the motor coach industry. He built over 15,000 certified tanks for the industry before it collapsed here in the Willamette Valley during the recession. So I am confidant in the skills of his firm. Finally, I hope to get some pictures posted up soon of various bits and pieces...should be getting the last electrical bits from Dave at Japan4x4 early next week. I am trying to find the time to get the electrical stuff all figured out over the 4th. I'll update early next week!

 

[CappyKD]

I'd be in for an aux tank as well.

 

[jonharis]

Videre

Send me a PM with your contact info. I can photograph it and take some measurements.

 

[jeetS]

I'd be very interested in the smaller version.
Maybe I missed it but would this coexist with the spare tire in the factory location or would the spare have to be removed?

 

[VidereStudios]

Maybe I missed it but would this coexist with the spare tire in the factory location or would the spare have to be removed?

At this point, the spare would have to be removed. The subtank design utilizes a few of the factory bolt holes in the frame that are currently used by spare tire stabilizer hardware. I removed the front and rear stabilizers as well as the main cross member that holds the spare tire.

If you really want the subtank above the spare, Toyota made an OEM setup for 100 series trucks down in Australia. You should be able to easily source one of those since they a lot of folks down there are pulling them out to put in LPG systems. I think you should be able to get one of those for $500 or so...before shipping.

 

[VidereStudios]

A quick update...I met with the fabricator yesterday and went over the final details. I paid him a deposit on the prototype...he starts on Monday after the long weekend! This is for the largest subtank. I will then have him fabricate prototypes of the medium subtank and rockcrawler subtank.

There are a couple of cool features on the rockcrawler subtank that I am planning to build-in. The first is that it will have a welded in fuel sump so that fuel pump won't be sucking air as the rig articulates through the rocks. I also am designing this tank to attach to the side frame rails so that those people who have removed the rear crossmember for maximum clearance rear bumpers can still utilize a subtank in their setup. I am hoping that by September I can have all three prototypes made and be entering into some production runs of these guys.

 

[80Greg100]

I am very interested in the 30 gallon version.

Jeff

copy that - me too, and subbed - GM

 

[Romer]

I as well. I have two 04's

 

[lrowe_csp]

Subscribed for a 30 gallon on a 1999.

 

[hoser]

If I was designing a high clearance tank, I'd probably design it with the resonator cut off and a straight pipe in it's place. If one is worried about clearance, this mod makes sense and isn't expensive to pay a shop to do.

 

[VidereStudios]

If I was designing a high clearance tank, I'd probably design it with the resonator cut off and a straight pipe in it's place. If one is worried about clearance, this mod makes sense and isn't expensive to pay a shop to do.

I had actually thought of that...good point hoser! We'll have to see how the capacity turns out with that subtank. The other consideration is if people are putting in EMS exhausts and then they try to cut down on the drone from that exhaust system by adding the resonator...even if they are rockcrawling. If I design it for the factory resonator, I know it will work with any EMS or DT offering. Otherwise, I am treading into unfamiliar territory since I don't have either one of those exhausts to work with. If I can hit 22-25 gallons, stay above the frame rails (with the sump), and keep the factory resonator, that is probably the direction I should go in.

What do you all think? For those interested in the rockcrawler subtank, let me know your preference. Design for factory resonator, or not?

 

[hoser]

Here is 24 gallons. No provision for charcoal canister. Tank wraps up and over resonator. The rear support is mounted right before the frame "triangulates." The tank could probably extend back a little further but it is also nice to have a little buffer.

 

[sonk76]

I had actually thought of that...good point hoser! We'll have to see how the capacity turns out with that subtank. The other consideration is if people are putting in EMS exhausts and then they try to cut down on the drone from that exhaust system by adding the resonator...even if they are rockcrawling. If I design it for the factory resonator, I know it will work with any EMS or DT offering. Otherwise, I am treading into unfamiliar territory since I don't have either one of those exhausts to work with. If I can hit 22-25 gallons, stay above the frame rails (with the sump), and keep the factory resonator, that is probably the direction I should go in.

What do you all think? For those interested in the rockcrawler subtank, let me know your preference. Design for factory resonator, or not?

I believe the resonator on the EMS exhaust is purely internal so it should not affect the outer diameter. That said, the EMS exhaust does run higher up and closer to the frame so not sure that there is any room above it per se.