Lockers options cost

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Spoke with Denny at Randy's (RANDYS Worldwide | Differentials, Rear End Gears, Axles, Lockers) Awesome guys there. Their stuff is very reasonable. they manufacture their own Air locker and gears(which many of you already know and mentioned). I think If I bite the bullet for the locker set-up I will go with them. They are fairly close to me in Washington. Customer service was fantastic. Zip locker $839 air pump $150ish. Gears $250. Not sure on install cost. Will cross that bridge when I have cash in hand. I'm guessing $1800 on the low end and $2200 on high end.
 
I am running BFG AT2's brand new, 1st try in 4h no lock, 2nd try 4Low no lock, 3rd try locked and 4Low, 4th try same, 5th try got a 10ft run at it and throttled up it. Very wet and loose. I was not aired down but neither was he. He went after me with no problems at all not a wheel slipped. He has some all season tires. Believe me I was shocked. My other buddy has a Tacoma with a locker and tried 2 times before he e-locked, mind you he has almost bald MT's.
 
Fj yes, Tacoma has a different setup as a pickup.

1) don't wheel in 4H
2) don't wheel in 4L and not lock the CDL
3) don't wheel at street pressure, regardless of what the other guy does.

With no pics and video nothing else to say, but it sounds like the driver made the difference.
 
I won't try and justify my wheeling experience. I have been doing it a while. I guess it just takes some time getting used to atrac. My jeep friend has 0 wheeling experience. Oh well I will stop crying
 
Having solid axles could be a advantage on the right terrain as the axle may stay more parallel to the ground. Atrac won't work if you use too much throttle. It may be that his Jeep is a little easier to just power up that certain hill on that day.
 
ATRAC won't work properly without the CDL locked. You will leave one axle "open" and ATRAC won't work.

4H you NEVER should wheel in technical situations because it puts too much wheel spin down. No control. No traction.
 
I have a ritual on the trail. I stop. Take a picture of the start of the trail (the sign) so I know which pictures arr on my phone after that sign picture. I air down, go to 4L, disable the side air bags, engage the center lock button. I should have a low pressure light under the gas gauge, RCSA light on dash, center diff lock light as well. Then I start the trail. I never shut the truck off after I do all this. I would hate the starter to not work and then need a tow for something stupid. Thats is my routine.
 
I didn't realize you had to have the CDL locked in order for atrac to function right Oh the things you learn online
 
It will function, but not as well...since you still have uncontrolled wheel spin in the center diff vs. limited to the axle
 
With AWD/full-time 4WD, if you don't engage the CDL and you get wheel spin, your rig just went to 1-wheel drive. All power goes to the spinning wheel doing no good. CDL at least gives you another wheel on the opposite axle. Something I just learned. What happens on the hill climb is you are putting too much torque down without having the proper traction. Just creates wheel spin. This is why we have the 2nd start option in our vehicles. 1st gear has too much torque in some situations. If you get a running start and don't use it just let off the gas once you get going up the hill. Staying on the gas will keep you in 1st gear. Hopefully, that makes some sense. Learned some good stuff from the Overland Experts when I was at the Mid-Atlantic Overland Festival a few weeks ago.
 
Love it. I'm not used to all the electronic trickery. Maybe if I just master ATRAC I won't have to shell out $2k for a locker
 
Going from an 80 series to a 120 series seems like I am on another learning curve. As stated electric trickery!
 
I aired down this past weekend when I got in a bad spot, basically sliding closer and closer to a cliff, anyways after airing down it was fantastic. pulled myself right out.
 

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