Eibach Options (3 Viewers)

[e30vert]

The factory suspension is cooked on my gx470 and it’s time for a refresh. It won’t see much more than fire roads, very mild off road, but I will be towing with it a decent bit. The heaviest thing will be a 66 impala. My thought the remote reservoirs should handle longer towing trips better than a single body (more fluid more heat dispersion right?). I’m more than happy to save a couple bucks and go with a lower stage, I’m really just trying to bulletproof things. I’d rather buy something beefier and be comfortably within its limits than buy something lesser and flirting with the limits more often (hope that makes sense).

Im not looking for crazy lift, ideally sitting level around the max rear ride height (give or take). My concern is that it’s listed at 2.2 inches in the rear. I don’t want to get into upgrading the panhard bar, UCAs, and eating CVs. I’d like to stay within the bounds of the factory ancillary pieces.

I would also like to run a 275/70r17 on a 0 offset wheel. I can live with minor rubbing but no BMC, no major cutting/ modification.

I’m really not trying to turn this into a bigger project than it needs to be. I would just like some feedback from the community who have this or a similar set up.

 

[Rednexus]

If you OEM shocks are cooked, chances are your UCA and LCA bushings are also worn (front and rear), along with the ball joints, panhard bar bushings, sway bar bushings, sway bar end links, etc. (mine were at 145K). Also, if you are towing often - especially a heavy car like a '66 Impala that will be (with a trailer) near the max capacity of the GX - there are many advantages to keeping airbags over doing a coil-spring conversion that most lifts would get you.

The target lift you listed (front level under max rear ride height) would end up being a 3" front lift (2" OEM rear airbag high-setting lift plus 1" stock rake). At 3" you will definitely need aftermarket UCAs and high-angle CV boots (my rig is 3" lifted in the front and I have both of those). Having the rig sit level empty could problematic for towing (unless you use aftermarket extended length airbags), as you'd be squatting as soon as you hook up a trailer. If you are going to do a coil conversion and tow, I'd suggest setting the ride height at 1" to 1.5" of rake and adding aux airbags inside the coils (which is how my rig is set up). You should then be able to keep the rig level when towing just about anything. Using extended-length airbags should avoid the need to have some rake, although I haven't used them myself (others on here have).

An easier option - considering the rig isn't getting wheeled much - would be a basic stock-height suspension refresh (i.e., replacing all of the worn parts listed above - either with OEM Toyota parts or decent-quality aftermarket parts), using aftermarket shocks of your choice and replacement stock-style airbags. This will avoid all negative impacts of the lift, will make the GX drive the best, and will have the best towing performance. You don't really need special shocks for towing, it's more based on having enough spring stiffness in the rig so that it's not squatty and bouncing while you too. If the springs are too soft and the rig is squatty, the shocks will need to work a lot harder to keep it under control.

 

[e30vert]

If you OEM shocks are cooked, chances are your UCA and LCA bushings are also worn (front and rear), along with the ball joints, panhard bar bushings, sway bar bushings, sway bar end links, etc. (mine were at 145K). Also, if you are towing often - especially a heavy car like a '66 Impala that will be (with a trailer) near the max capacity of the GX - there are many advantages to keeping airbags over doing a coil-spring conversion that most lifts would get you.

The target lift you listed (front level under max rear ride height) would end up being a 3" front lift (2" OEM rear airbag high-setting lift plus 1" stock rake). At 3" you will definitely need aftermarket UCAs and high-angle CV boots (my rig is 3" lifted in the front and I have both of those). Having the rig sit level empty could problematic for towing (unless you use aftermarket extended length airbags), as you'd be squatting as soon as you hook up a trailer. If you are going to do a coil conversion and tow, I'd suggest setting the ride height at 1" to 1.5" of rake and adding aux airbags inside the coils (which is how my rig is set up). You should then be able to keep the rig level when towing just about anything. Using extended-length airbags should avoid the need to have some rake, although I haven't used them myself (others on here have).

An easier option - considering the rig isn't getting wheeled much - would be a basic stock-height suspension refresh (i.e., replacing all of the worn parts listed above - either with OEM Toyota parts or decent-quality aftermarket parts), using aftermarket shocks of your choice and replacement stock-style airbags. This will avoid all negative impacts of the lift, will make the GX drive the best, and will have the best towing performance. You don't really need special shocks for towing, it's more based on having enough spring stiffness in the rig so that it's not squatty and bouncing while you too. If the springs are too soft and the rig is squatty, the shocks will need to work a lot harder to keep it under control.

Thank you very much for the reply. I know the airbags would be better for towing, but the aging air ride system with electronics getting higher mileage scares me. I come from the bmw world and I’m new to the Toyota/lexus brand. When I see an opportunity to simplify something I take it. I would feel more comfortable with a cool spring or decent coil over set up. Good to know on the height situation.

To your point about bushing and other maintenance believe me it’s on the list, I really just meant I don’t want to get into. Making after market ancillary suspension fit together that weren’t designed for each other

If you OEM shocks are cooked, chances are your UCA and LCA bushings are also worn (front and rear), along with the ball joints, panhard bar bushings, sway bar bushings, sway bar end links, etc. (mine were at 145K). Also, if you are towing often - especially a heavy car like a '66 Impala that will be (with a trailer) near the max capacity of the GX - there are many advantages to keeping airbags over doing a coil-spring conversion that most lifts would get you.

The target lift you listed (front level under max rear ride height) would end up being a 3" front lift (2" OEM rear airbag high-setting lift plus 1" stock rake). At 3" you will definitely need aftermarket UCAs and high-angle CV boots (my rig is 3" lifted in the front and I have both of those). Having the rig sit level empty could problematic for towing (unless you use aftermarket extended length airbags), as you'd be squatting as soon as you hook up a trailer. If you are going to do a coil conversion and tow, I'd suggest setting the ride height at 1" to 1.5" of rake and adding aux airbags inside the coils (which is how my rig is set up). You should then be able to keep the rig level when towing just about anything. Using extended-length airbags should avoid the need to have some rake, although I haven't used them myself (others on here have).

An easier option - considering the rig isn't getting wheeled much - would be a basic stock-height suspension refresh (i.e., replacing all of the worn parts listed above - either with OEM Toyota parts or decent-quality aftermarket parts), using aftermarket shocks of your choice and replacement stock-style airbags. This will avoid all negative impacts of the lift, will make the GX drive the best, and will have the best towing performance. You don't really need special shocks for towing, it's more based on having enough spring stiffness in the rig so that it's not squatty and bouncing while you too. If the springs are too soft and the rig is squatty, the shocks will need to work a lot harder to keep it under control.

Thank you for your reply! Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying Im not going to do maintenance; I simply don't want to get into "upgrades" specifically. I'm looking for something OEM+. I want to retain all factory outside of the strut/spring combo. Im not towing super often, once every few months, but when I do, it will be sometimes be a road trip (Hopefully I won't be towing the Impala after this year, fingers crossed). I know the air bags are generally better for towing, but this is an older platform now and I don't trust the electronics as they not only get older, but go up in milage and use. I come from the BMW world, when there's an opportunity to simplify something, I take it. I would just feel more comfortable with a coil over/ coil spring set up for reliability purposes (I don't like my dash being lit up like a Christmas tree). I've used Eibach on prior cars and have had great experience with them, but I am new to this world and Don't know a lot about it.

Good to know about the height. I spoke to an Eibach rep today that gave me some good feedback about the height settings and options too. I may have been ambitious with my original lift goals. I've accepted that I'll maintain the rake. it's not the end of the world. I want it have a nice stance along the lines of a TRD Pro or the Over Trail. Ive been digging through threads here, but it's hard to appreciate how a vehicle sits without seeing it in person. I appreciate the info on shocks vs springs for towing too, the Eibach rep schooled me up there too lol. I definitely don't need the pro 2R, I think the stage 2 at the factory settings is more than enough for what Im looking for.

Pics of your truck?

 

[e30vert]

Wow really Ducked that response up lol that's what you get for writing books on your phone

 

[M3GX]

I'm running the Eiback pro Coilover kit in the front and their adjustable height coil system in the rear. Only gives about 1" lift on the lowest setting in the rear, that I'm on.

P255/75R-17 Yokohama Geolandar A/T G015 SL tires

 

[e30vert]

I'm running the Eiback pro Coilover kit in the front and their adjustable height coil system in the rear. Only gives about 1" lift on the lowest setting in the rear, that I'm on.

P255/75R-17 Yokohama Geolandar A/T G015 SL tires

View attachment 3988267

Thanks for including the picture, any rubbing or any other issues of note? Stock UCAs?

 

[M3GX]

Thanks for including the picture, any rubbing or any other issues of note? Stock UCAs?

SPC UCA's, no rubbing at all

 

[Rednexus]

Thank you very much for the reply. I know the airbags would be better for towing, but the aging air ride system with electronics getting higher mileage scares me. I come from the bmw world and I’m new to the Toyota/lexus brand. When I see an opportunity to simplify something I take it. I would feel more comfortable with a cool spring or decent coil over set up. Good to know on the height situation.

To your point about bushing and other maintenance believe me it’s on the list, I really just meant I don’t want to get into. Making after market ancillary suspension fit together that weren’t designed for each other

Just an FYI, but if you have worn out bushings, your rig won't drive very well, even with new springs and shocks on it. It's really nominal extra effort to replace the front UCAs and LCAs if the struts are already out (maybe 1 more hour per side). Your front LCA alignment cams are probably already seized anyway (being that you are in a wet climate) so you might run into alignment issues with any amount of a lift that would further deteriorate how the rig drives (and would require sawzalling out the LCAs and replacing them along with the alignment cams). The back suspension is a little more of pain (you'll need a 2nd person to help align the axle after you pull out the LCAs and UCAs), but isn't really "hard". Other things like sway bar end links have to come off anyway when you lift, so it's almost no extra effort to replace them. If you do all of that, your rig will drive like it is brand new. And, you can use either OEM Toyota or stock-type aftermarket parts.

If you are going to be towing with a coil conversion (which is what I do all the time), you can add a set of Firestone bags inside the coils for around $120 and manually inflate/deflate them with a portable compressor or even a bike pump. Then you have the best of both worlds - simplicity/reliability of coils, plus the ability to stiffen up the back when you are towing a trailer. However, the Firestone bags max out at 30 psi, relative to the OEM bags which are 100+ psi. So they can't really "load level" like the factory suspension, and you will still get easily an inch of squat with a heavy trailer. But, it's better than the 2-3+ inches of squat you'd get without the bags or a WDH.

 

[e30vert]

Just an FYI, but if you have worn out bushings, your rig won't drive very well, even with new springs and shocks on it. It's really nominal extra effort to replace the front UCAs and LCAs if the struts are already out (maybe 1 more hour per side). Your front LCA alignment cams are probably already seized anyway (being that you are in a wet climate) so you might run into alignment issues with any amount of a lift that would further deteriorate how the rig drives (and would require sawzalling out the LCAs and replacing them along with the alignment cams). The back suspension is a little more of pain (you'll need a 2nd person to help align the axle after you pull out the LCAs and UCAs), but isn't really "hard". Other things like sway bar end links have to come off anyway when you lift, so it's almost no extra effort to replace them. If you do all of that, your rig will drive like it is brand new. And, you can use either OEM Toyota or stock-type aftermarket parts.

If you are going to be towing with a coil conversion (which is what I do all the time), you can add a set of Firestone bags inside the coils for around $120 and manually inflate/deflate them with a portable compressor or even a bike pump. Then you have the best of both worlds - simplicity/reliability of coils, plus the ability to stiffen up the back when you are towing a trailer. However, the Firestone bags max out at 30 psi, relative to the OEM bags which are 100+ psi. So they can't really "load level" like the factory suspension, and you will still get easily an inch of squat with a heavy trailer. But, it's better than the 2-3+ inches of squat you'd get without the bags or a WDH.
View attachment 3988394
View attachment 3988400

Rig looks sick! What size wheels and tires if you don’t mind? Good to know about adding the inner airbags, I’ll have to look into this more. Do you remove them when your not towing or just simply deflate them?

But again im planning on doing the maintence while im in there, I just dont want a bunch of aftermarket parts, I want to stick with as much OEM as possible. I’ll be doing bushings and all that jazz, I just don’t want to get into aftermarket upgrades if I don’t have to. I’d much rather use factory equipment if possible.

 

[Rednexus]

Rig looks sick! What size wheels and tires if you don’t mind? Good to know about adding the inner airbags, I’ll have to look into this more. Do you remove them when your not towing or just simply deflate them?

But again im planning on doing the maintence while im in there, I just dont want a bunch of aftermarket parts, I want to stick with as much OEM as possible. I’ll be doing bushings and all that jazz, I just don’t want to get into aftermarket upgrades if I don’t have to. I’d much rather use factory equipment if possible.

The bags are ran at 5 psi when empty (Firestone says not to totally deflate them). Tires are 285/70R17 Wildepak AT4Ws, wheels are cheapo Vors VE37 (17x8.5, 0" offset) that have actually been pretty good.

For your parts, you can get OEM Toyota replacement on everything, or 555 replacement for some things like sway bar end links (555 is Japanese made and almost as good as OEM Toyota). You can order the parts online or at your local dealer. Then use aftermarket shocks and springs, and your rig will drive great for the next 15+ years.

 

[Sixto Lezcano]

I’ve been running the Eibach kit with adjustable rears for a few years, it’s been great. I didn’t want a big lift so I used the lowest setting. Actually adjusting the rears is not easy, at least in my experience with the wrench Eibach provided but that’s about my only complaint. I did also replace all control arms and just about everything else. 265/70 tires. This pic from when I had recently installed lift, it might have settled a bit over the years but I haven’t noticed (or taken any recent side pics).

 

[e30vert]

I’ve been running the Eibach kit with adjustable rears for a few years, it’s been great. I didn’t want a big lift so I used the lowest setting. Actually adjusting the rears is not easy, at least in my experience with the wrench Eibach provided but that’s about my only complaint. I did also replace all control arms and just about everything else. 265/70 tires. This pic from when I had recently installed lift, it might have settled a bit over the years but I haven’t noticed (or taken any recent side pics).

View attachment 3988465

Thanks for sharing! Did you replace the ancillary bits like the control arms with oem or aftermarket?

 

[Rednexus]

The Eibach rear adjusters look pretty similar to the Ironman adjusters that I used to have. You'd probably need to put some kind of a insert in the middle of the adjuster to run an airbag inside the coils in order to prevent the bag from wearing on the top of the threaded adjuster (something as simple as a few hockey pucks would probably work). My Ironman adjusters were actually easy to adjust once the rig was up in the air and the tires were off, as you just need to pull the set screw and then turn the whole coil by hand. But, that was for one-time dialing of the static ride height. It would be a big pain to do before and after a towing session as it would take 30+ minutes each time. Having the aux airbags would be a much better solution for occasional load-leveling