Loan me a pre-'69 tail light cone for mold?

[65swb45]

 

[Living in the Past]

Where these found on ‘62 Model?

I just looked and don’t have any.

@KY Longhunter - My understanding is that '62s didn't have anything like this. They started with the 4" lights in '64.

Correct this didn't have the cone on the back. I have thought of seeing they would work since I believe the over all size of the mounting bracket is the same.

 

[HelloKitty65]

Saggin' in the sun.

Using a stringent not-the-Underwriters Labratory lab (@oregon fj 's driveway), the prototype taillight cones were subjected to full sun in 81°-84° heat.

Mind you, there is usually supposed to be a body that would provide shade in this location (if the vehicle is right side up). But that is off being painted a really cool color.

The beads can be molded at 140° F, so the lesson is, don't try this at home if you live in Death Valley. Plus you probably shouldn't use this material in applications inside a car with windows that roll up, or for anything that will be painted black and put in the sun.

How it performs in a temperate climate in the shade, to be determined.

 

[middlecalf]

Heat or UV damage?

 

[oregon fj]

Heat. The thermoplastic beads become soft and moldable at 140°F. Direct sun on black painted surface on an 80°F day softened the plastic, and in spots where it was a little thinner, it sagged from gravity. I'm not sure that having the tub on to shade them would have prevented this, but I suspect so.

Once I get the body back on the frame, I will probably pull them off (both sides did it), warm them a bit and reshape. Then we will see how they hold up in normal conditions.

 

[hdjtachtig]

Is the wire supposed to come out on the top side? Water might get into it like this?

 

[oregon fj]

Yes. The original used as a pattern has wires out the top, and a small drain hole at the bottom.

 

[HelloKitty65]

Either way, it's going to leak.

 

[Living in the Past]

Yes. The original used as a pattern has wires out the top, and a small drain hole at the bottom.

Either way, it's going to leak.

Yes the wires come in from top. Comfirmed it on my 68 I've had since 74. Would have to check for a week hole on the opposite side. For the top recommend checking the grommet. Mine I came feel would leak. Water kicked up from the tires could travel down wires and into the housing. Besides sealing the grommet with silicone would seal the back of the light itself inside.

In AZ temperatures over 120 degrees Fahrenheit have been recorded. Driving on hot asphalt could see the housing disforming even under the vehicle.

 

[HelloKitty65]

120 is a long ways from 140. I have hunch shade is the key. But what do I know, I live in soggy Washington State where it is cold and rainy already.
Pavement baking in the sun, that's another matter. As a kid in Virginia, all summer was spent barefoot, but black asphalt, direct contact with that would burn you.

 

[oregon fj]

Heat. The thermoplastic beads become soft and moldable at 140°F. Direct sun on black painted surface on an 80°F day softened the plastic, and in spots where it was a little thinner, it sagged from gravity. I'm not sure that having the tub on to shade them would have prevented this, but I suspect so.

Once I get the body back on the frame, I will probably pull them off (both sides did it), warm them a bit and reshape. Then we will see how they hold up in normal conditions.

Wanted to touch bases on this. Now that I've had the tub back on the frame for a few weeks, I've observed 2 things.

1. The previous damage is not visible at all with the tub in place.
2. Despite having the rig sit in the direct sun on an 85°F day, the shade from the tub prevents further damage. It just doesn't get hot enough to soften the thermoplastic.

 

[Living in the Past]

I live in soggy Washington State where it is cold and rainy already.

This was Saturday morning here in Arizona.

I agree 120 is a ways from 140 but won't want to have to be sure I don't park it on black asphalt, keep it in the shade and exhaust end routed far enough away. Hoping since my 68 cones are in good shape yet and have a spare or two will never need to search for replacements.

 

[oregon fj]

No doubt, originals would be far better to have. Or make a 2-piece (inner and outer) mold and do it via injection molding with a better material. That might be a bit expensive for the small number that people might want.

On further reflection, I wonder about having an original 3D scanned so they could be 3D-printed? Probably some material available that way that might be more appropriate? @Krondor - Any thoughts on the viability of this? What kinds of plastic might be possible?

 

[red66toy]

I am definitely interested in a pair of reproductions if this happens. Thanks for the effort!

 

[Krondor]

The 3D scanning wouldn't be an issue. And they could be printed in Nylon with a melting point of 428 C. I would say the printing cost would be around $60 each with an initial scan price of around $200-$300.

 

[oregon fj]

The 3D scanning wouldn't be an issue. And they could be printed in Nylon with a melting point of 428 C. I would say the printing cost would be around $60 each with an initial scan price of around $200-$300.

It would certainly seem that nylon via 3D printing would be a really good option. As long as the material was either black, or able to be painted black. Does paint stick to nylon?

 

[Krondor]

It would certainly seem that nylon via 3D printing would be a really good option. As long as the material was either black, or able to be painted black. Does paint stick to nylon?

Nylon can be printed in black and it can also be painted. It can be sanded and glazed to allow for a very smooth surface finish if required.

 

[oregon fj]

Printing in black material would be preferable to painting them black, as they will get rocks thrown at them and any paint would get rather abused.

 

[HelloKitty65]

Ones made with beads are $3-4 in material.
Just don't drive around without a body, or park upside down in the full sun.

 

[red66toy]

Bump. Is this project at the cross roads of thermo-beads or nylon 3D printing?